The Slow Boats of Laos - A Journey on the Mekong River - Huay Xai, Pakbeng, Luang Prabang

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Taking the slow boat on the Mekong is a bucket list item for many travellers. Between the border town of Huay Xai and the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang, slow boats plough their way up and down the mighty Mekong river.

A slow boat travels upstream from Luang Prabang on the Mekong River, Laos.

We had just finished a wonderful week in Luang Prabang. John’s parents had tracked him down and treated us to a fantastic stay in the ancient Royal Capital of Laos. When it was time to leave there was only one choice. We would all get on a slow boat and travel up the Mekong to Pakbeng.

The first leg of the journey, Luang Prabang to Pakbeng, would be done in the lap of luxury as John's parents had the river cruise included in their tour package. After Pakbeng we would be going our separate ways and thus a more backpacker friendly mode would be engaged. Our second boat journey from Pakbeng to Huay Xai would be less salubrious, joining other travellers and locals on a distinctly more budget friendly local boat.

Leg One - Boating in the Lap of Luxury - Luang Prabang to Pakbeng

Mekong river views from the Shompoo Cruise

Day one started with an early morning wake up call in Luang Prabang. A 7am departure saw us up early at the Shompoo Cruise pier ready for our day of luxurious cruising. We would be travelling this leg of the Mekong on a very large and well appointed river boat. Comfy seats, recliners and even some scatter cushions were strewn artfully about the deck, with a bar and toilet to the back of the boat. There were only twelve of us on this massive boat, so we were free to roam and stretch out wherever we pleased. From every angle you could get a different view of the river. The prow of the boat had chairs set up giving spectacular uninterrupted views of the river valley. The bar had stool seating facing out to the sides, and all along the boat were seats and recliners set next to the open windows.

We set off with the early morning mists rising from the river and cloaking Luang Prabang in their mysterious coils. The boat puttered along at a fairly lively pace but was quiet and relaxed for everyone on board allowing us all to savour the surroundings. The boat provided warm blankets against the early morning chill, and breakfast had been picked up from one of the posher coffee shops (T56 cafe and bar) of Luang Prabang. As we drifted along we passed school children cycling, monks crossing the river and farmers tending their crops. Munching on croissants whilst sipping coffee and floating down the Mekong was an unforgettable way to start a day.

The morning mist rises over the Mekong River.

The upstream Shompoo Cruise included a stop at the Pak Ou caves. The two visitable caves are accessible from a small jetty on the side of the river. The upper cave are reached by climbing 300 stone steps and houses beautiful Buddha statues as well as a stupa and shrine. The lower cave is a treasure chest filled with every style, shape and design of Buddha you can imagine. Point your torch in any direction and an image of the Buddha will stare back at you. The cave is packed with tiny alcoves filled to the brim with Buddha statues.

The climb to the Pak Ou caves also gives fantastic views of the Mekong river below.

View over the Mekong River from the Pak Ou Caves on Shompoo Cruises, Laos.

The Pak Ou caves was the only stop on this leg of the cruise, so afterwards we clambered back on board and got comfy for the remaining seven odd hours to Pakbeng.

The boat was very comfy, with John nodding off after being lulled to sleep by the gentle movement of the water. A buffet lunch was provided as well as free tea, coffee and water. There was also a paid bar on board for mid afternoon beverages.

As the river wound on, we took in water buffalo, pristine jungle, peanut fields and lots of interesting snap shots of Laotian river bank life. We pulled into Pakbeng just before 5pm just in time to watch a spectacular sunset over the Mekong river.

Sunset over the Mekong River at Pakbeng, viewed from the Sunset Bar of the Sanctuary Hotel.

For those travelling in luxury Pak Beng has two higher end hotels: The Sanctuary and Le Grand. The above photo was taken at the Sanctuary’s restaurant, the views were amazing! For those on a backpacking budget there are many guesthouses in the town itself offering cheap lodgings for the night.

As we mentioned we were travelling this leg as guests of John’s parents so didn’t have to foot the bill for any of this. We can’t comment on any kind of “value for money” thing here, but only our experiences on the boat. A boat trip with Shompoo Cruises can be booked directly from Luang Prabang or on their website. We have not been paid or otherwise incentivised to promote them.

A slow boat floats down the Mekong River towards Luang Prabang in Laos.

Leg Two - Back to Backpacking - Boating with the Locals - Pakbeng to Huay Xai

After saying goodbye to John’s parents and staying another night in Pakbeng to sort out our onward itinerary, we boarded the daily slow boat upstream to the border town of Huay Xai.

The boat departs daily from Pakbeng to Huay Xai at 8.30am. You buy your tickets for this journey on the day of travel on the boat. One ticket from Pakbeng to Huay Xai costs 150,000 kip (£7.20 or $9.00). Seating and tickets are first come, first served so get there early to avoid an uncomfortable ride. We rocked up at 8am and were definitely not the first to board. Around 8.10am it started to become extremely busy and we were very glad we had arrived early and claimed our seats. The seats we had today stood in far contrast to the luxury of the first day. Gone were the recliners and scatter cushions, instead there were wooden cushioned benches and what appeared to be seats ripped straight out of a coach and placed on movable wooden blocks.

Tip: Word to the wise, when boarding don’t be tempted by the inward facing rows of coach seats as these can be moved around if more people need to get on. Even if they stay where they are you will constantly need to move your feet around as people go backwards and forwards!

Your bags are stored wherever they will fit. As we got on early, our backpacks were stowed under our wooden bench. Later arrivals had their bags piled at the front and back of the boat with some of them being rearranged mid cruise to help with weight distribution.

The boat sputtered to life and swung away from the pier just after 8.30am. In contrast to the twelve people on board for the first leg, there were at least fifty on board this smaller boat. A mix of backpackers, Laotian families and sales people moving their goods around, the boat was a lively affair. Children ran up and down the aisle, whilst their grandmother sat cross legged and ramrod straight on the seat beside. The banks of the Mekong gently rolling past amidst the chatter of the travellers on board.

Blanket clad locals sleep on the slow boat from Pakbeng, Laos

Another difference between this and our luxury cruise was apparent within moments of setting off, there were no free blankets. As we waited for the sun to rise above the mountains and burn off the morning mists, it was seriously chilly. This had obviously caught out quite a few of our fellow travellers as we all huddled together with our hoodies up. The more experienced locals were bundled in blankets they had brought from home.

Tip: At the back of the boat next to the shop there is a stack of blankets. These can almost certainly be rented/borrowed but by the time we had noticed them the temperature had risen back to the normal tropical heat.

This stretch of the river seemed more remote than that of the previous day. We passed reed thatched houses in precarious cliffside villages. Many of the houses were raised up further still to protect them from the river below and its monumental floods. Limestone cliffs towered over the riverbanks whilst water buffalo wallowed in the shallows. We passed families collecting and drying reeds for brushes and what looked like panning for gold.

Two young Laotian farmers walk across green fields lining the banks of the Mekong River, Laos.

Mid morning saw the group behind us open the first of the beer Lao to salute their journey up the Mekong. Whereas yesterday we had a buffet lunch and a dedicated bar. Today, there was a young Laotian family at the back of the boat who had almost walled themselves in with stacks of water, pot noodles and beer for sale. Behind the makeshift shop there was a toilet on board. We can’t comment on the state of it as we didn’t use it.

A sandwich from Pakbeng is held against the Laotian background aboard the local slow boat on the Mekong River, Laos.

The chatter on board the boat was lively and friendly, with a Laotian baby doing the rounds with her mother to say hello to everyone (the baby looked very confused by this). Lunchtime saw a flurry of activity at the helm of the boat. A carpet was laid out and an ornate circular table brought forward from the back of the boat. It was time for the Captain’s lunch. Baskets of sticky rice, dried pork and steamed green vegetables were beautifully laid out on the silver table. We looked on in jealousy as we tucked into our sandwiches.

Tip: The town of Pakbeng is completely set up to cater for the long boat journeys. It is the halfway point for the up and down stream journeys, as well as the lunch spot for the speed boats. Lining either side of the main street are vendors selling portable snacks from sandwiches, pastries and cakes to crisps, biscuits and drinks. Pick up your breakfast and lunch here if you don’t feel like eating pot noodles on the boat!

Occasionally the boat would swing into an ostensibly deserted piece of river bank and a Laotian family would get off. Things did get a little bit more interesting at one point when there was a loud clunk from the engine and we shuddered to a halt in the middle of the river. The driver steered us into the bank, had a heated discussion on a telephone, then went to the back and did something noisy to the engine and we set off again as if nothing had happened!

Tip: We have heard that breakdowns are quite common and can be a lot more time consuming than ours was. Bear this in mind if you’re running out of visa time!

After around seven hours, the river swept around in a large bend and we finally had Thailand to the left of us. The Mekong serves as the border along this stretch of the river. The contrast between the Laotian and Thai sides of the river was instantly evident. The Thai side had much more infrastructure with new roads and what looked like flood defences, whereas the Laotian side was still predominantly jungle and fields. Eventually we passed under the Friendship Bridge and swung into Huay Xai. Our slow boat journey was complete!

Slow boats are moored in Huay Xai's slow boat pier in Laos.

Tip: The Friendship Bridge which serves as the border crossing between Thailand and Laos is quite a distance from Huay Xai and the boat landing pier. You will need to factor in at least 45 minutes to get between the two, so keep an eye out on when the border closes for the day. Our boat was coming in at 5.30pm and there were a lot of very worried people on board!

Both days of travel along the Mekong were fantastic. It’s a bucket list item for a reason. It’s a beautiful way to take in what would otherwise be a remote and inaccessible area of Laos. You get to see life played out across the river and its banks. It's not like a museum piece or any of the “craft villages" often added to package tours, it was real life happening just outside the window. We feel you could travel up and down the Mekong multiple times and you wouldn’t see the same journey twice.

Saffron robe monks sit on a ferry crossing the Mekong River in Laos.

This piece is not meant to answer which cruise you should take as they are completely different. If you require comfort, the ability to roam around and countless photo opportunities then the Shompoo Cruise was the definition of luxury and convenience. Whereas if you want to be in amongst it all, having babies passed around, surrounded by the chatter of travellers, and to be frank, save a lot of money, then the local slow boat will suit you perfectly. Either way, you need to do this now. The construction has already begun on several dams along these stretches of river, and it won't be long until this route is impassable and the landscape changed forever.

The Basic Facts of Taking a Slow Boat Up/Down the Mekong River

How Long Does It Take?

There are two options when answering this question. The slow boat takes two days with each day taking 6 to 8 hours depending on the river.

Alternatively, there is a speedboat service that will get you all the way in a day. We have heard this is quite an uncomfortable experience and there are some questions online as to its safety.

How Much Does It Cost?

The local slow boat is 150,000 kip per leg of the journey (300,000 kip in total - £14.15 or $17.70).

From the starting points of Huay Xai or Luang Prabang, you can buy your slow boat tickets at the departure piers, or for an added cost (that may include a transfer to the pier) from a tour operator or your hostel. The tickets from Pakbeng to your destination, are brought on the boat when you board at Pakbeng.

The cost of the more luxurious boats can be found here http://shompoo-cruise.com/en/our-rate/ - bear in mind it is a lot more expensive with prices starting above £135 ($170.00).

Where Do the Slow Boats Depart From?

Both Luang Prabang and Huay Xai have “slow boat” piers.

The slow boat pier in Huay Xai (Map Link) is easily walkable from the strip of accommodation most backpackers will find themselves staying in. Tuk tuks are available if you need a lift or are coming from the border.

In Pakbeng you will be dropped off from the same pier (Map Link) you will leave from in the morning, and the town is immediately in front of you. The luxury accommodation is up the hill to the left, whereas the town, guesthouses, restaurants and cafes lie to the right. If you’re booked into one of the more upmarket hotels, they will usually send transport to pick you up.

In Luang Prabang the slow boat pier (Map Link) is located a little further out of town, past the airport. There are plenty of taxis and tuk tuks available. If you’ve booked the ticket through a travel agent, they may include this transfer in the price, if not find some fellow travellers and split the cost to take one of the larger tuk tuks.

If you have splashed the cash and are travelling with Shompoo Cruises, then the pier is in the centre of Luang Prabang (Map Link).

What to Bring on the Slow Boat?

If you’re taking the local boat, when travelling on the first leg of your journey, make sure you bring any food or drinks that you want. Boats depart early in the morning and don’t stop until they reach Pakbeng in the late afternoon/early evening. On board there is a small shop selling pot noodles, crisps, biscuits, tea, coffee, beer and soft drinks.

When you stop at Pakbeng you can pick up sandwiches and other supplies ready for your second leg. If you’re on an especially busy boat, we would recommend pre-ordering your sandwiches when you arrive so you can just pick them up and go the next day. There are dozens of vendors all along the street in Pakbeng who can do this.

As we’ve mentioned on Shompoo Cruises, both breakfast and lunch were included and there was a paid bar available on board.

You set off early on both days, so wear a warm layer to snuggle into. The local boat we took did have blankets to rent. Blankets were provided on the Shompoo Cruise.

Are There Toilets Available?

Yes on both boats. Although we can’t comment on the quality of the local boat as luckily we didn’t need it. Shompoo Cruises were very nice!

A fisherman repairs his boats engine on the Mekong River, Laos.

Final Tips for the Local Slow Boat

Get there early as its first come, first served with seats.
The Huay Xai to Luang Prabang route is meant to get really busy, to the point where some travellers we have met regretted taking it. The boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai however, is perfect. Busy enough to still have an atmosphere but not overcrowded.
If you buy from a travel agent they will add their costs.
We would not recommend using the slow boat to Huay Xai on the last days of your visa. The boat will dock at Huay Xai very close to the time when the border closes for the day, and it's a 45 minute drive from the pier to the border (also breakdowns are quite common)!
Download some chilled out tunes and watch the river flow by. It really is an amazing experience!