Wat Phou and Champasak - The Ancient Khmer Ruins of Laos

Located a short drive down a bumpy dirt road right next to the entrance to Wat Phou is another ancient temple. Prasat Hong Nang Sida is much more ruined than Wat Phou and far less visited but it is well worth the short drive. There is a large restoration project happening now and the area around the temple looks like the most impossible jigsaw puzzle ever devised.

When we visited there was no entrance fee to Prasat Hong Nang Sida.

We would also note that the road is quite rough if you are driving yourself on a scooter!

Rows and rows of stone blocks lie on the sandy ground - part of Prasat Hong Nang Sida's restoration.

A restored portion of the Prasat Hong Nang Sida temple complex. Steps lead up past naga statues to a partially restored temple building.

Visiting Wat Phou with a Guide - Tours

You can easily arrange a tour of Wat Phou, either as a day trip from Pakse or from Champasak / Wat Phou itself. At Wat Phou itself there are plenty of guides looking for a group, just make sure you negotiate and don’t take the first price offered!

For those looking to go a little beyond the temple’s trails, there are dedicated hiking routes that take you deeper into the mountain and surrounding forests. The hikes take you to remote ruins and old markings that used to line the route between Wat Phou and the Khmer Capital in Cambodia. You have to have a local guide to hike these routes, the picture below shows the routes and contact information.

A information map and treking guide shows some of the longer 4-5 hour routes that would take you deeper into the mountain to find more Khmer ruins. — *As the sign says; the routes vary in difficulty and are only possible in certain seasons. for more information email* ***information@vatphoi-champassak.com***

Vat Phou Tours from Pakse

If you arrange a tour from Pakse you will be able to get around the issue of transport to and from the ruins, as well as condense the whole experience into a day. There are loads of operators in Pakse town just shop around or ask at your accommodation. Tours can start for as little as $12.00 but you will need to pay the entrance fee on top of this.

Moss covered boulders with piles of cairns sit in dappled sunlight around the ruins of Wat Phou.

If you are looking to combine a couple of Pakse’s highlights with a visit to Wat Phou, check out the tour Get Your Guide offers: Tour - Mystic Falls and Timeless Temples. This tour would also take you to the Bolaven Plateau and some of the incredible Four Sisters Waterfalls.

For more information about these falls, check out our article on the Bolaven Loop here.

Visiting Wat Phou from Vientiane

If you’re really short on time you can combine a trip to the Bolaven Plateau and Wat Phou from the capital of Laos, Vientiane. This 2 day trip includes flights, accommodation, meals and guides to visit Wat Phou, Tad Fane Waterfalls and the Bolaven Plateau.

It is a good option if you’re short on time and want to cram a lot into your Laos experience!

Book the tour here.

Wat Phou - is it worth the trip?

Wat Phou came as a complete surprise to us. Laos should definitely be promoting the ruins at Champasak more; they are spectacular, stunning and far better than we thought they would be. The ruins are far far bigger than images can convey. Honestly it is like one of the larger Angkorian temples, just less busy and on a Laotian mountainside! If you are in Pakse it is an easy day trip to visit and completely worth the time and effort! Especially if you tie it into a visit or stay in Champasak town itself.

Speaking of which...

Champasak Town - What to do, where to stay and where to eat

Champasak Town - Why Stay? What is there to do?

Set along a gorgeous stretch of the Mekong river, Champasak town was once a prestigious seat of power. Ancient Thai records speak of the "Kings of Champasak" and the region was a Kingdom unto itself until the French forced it into their Laotian colonial possession. Despite its small size, Champasak is still the provincial capital - the tiny town being favoured over that of the (much) larger city of Pakse to the north. This former glory, coupled with old colonial architecture and a prominent tourist focus to the local industry means that Champasak today is a great place to stay. The town has lots of guesthouses, hotels, restaurants and pretty cafés set all up to cater for those looking at visiting Wat Phou.

Most visitors to Champasak are there for the ruins of Wat Phou, but this isn't the only thing to do in the town. Champasak is in a beautiful area of Laos and has lots to offer those willing to look for it.

The ornate yellow-gold, red and green frontage of Wat Nakorn s flanked by two Yakshi guardians. Twin naga statues flank the stairs to the temple doors and the roof is decorated with more holy snakes.

The Paddy Fields - Walks and Sunset

The area around Champasak is full of natural beauty. Bordered by the mountains and the Mekong, the flat valley is nearly entirely given over to paddy fields. When planted these fields are a shimmering emerald and gold spectacle. You can take a curated path through them by following the Rice Field Trail and stretch your legs whilst admiring the amazing surroundings. Alternatively you could just sit back and enjoy an incredible Laotian sunset whilst sipping on a drink and having a nice snack! This lazier, but tastier, option is best indulged in from the Thongna Sky Café- a very good coffee shop and restaurant built out on decking above the paddy fields.

The sun blazes away above the mountains. In the forground is a flat plain of harvested rice paddies, the sky reflected in the flooded fields. — *The rice paddies are beautiful*

The sunset streaks the sky from red-orange to pink and blue. The mountains are in deep shadow but the water in the paddy fields is reflecting the light. — *Especially at sunset!*

Walk around the old town

Champasak town was the seat of the old colonial French administration for the region. The French built offices and residences to rule from, many of which are still in use today. The main riverside stretch of Champasak town is studded with these beautiful old buildings, some lovingly restored and maintained, some fading into decay and ruin. You can stay at, shop in, eat or have a coffee in several of these old buildings so make sure you keep an eye out when strolling about the town!

Don Daeng

This large island set in the middle of the Mekong is home to a very nice hotel as well as some nature trails and temples. You can really escape into the Laotian countryside here; there are farmers fields, forests and small villages to explore. You can book a tour from the town or hire a boat to take you across.

Temple hopping

Wat Phou may be the oldest temple, but it certainly isn't the only one! There are quite a few gorgeous, albeit more modern, temples to explore in and around Champasak. There is Wat Sisumang with its seated Buddha entwined with trees - also some stones from Khmer ruins scattered around for those with eagle eyes. Wat Phone Pang is a pretty temple with fantastic faded warriors framing the old doors. There is also Wat Nakorn a traditional style Laotian temple close in to the town. As always dress and act respectfully if you go exploring the temples.

An ancient stone Buddha sits in between two trees. The trees are growing over and through the old statue. The Buddha is dressed in saffron robes and is flanked by two smaller golden statues.

Café hopping

If Wat Phou has you templed out, or you just need a good cup of coffee, Champasak has you covered. Champasak borders the Bolaven Plateau - Laos most famous coffee growing region, so there is no shortage of great coffee on offer. There is the Thongna Sky Café we mentioned above as well as the ever popular Champasak with Love or, our favourite: Boupha Garden Café. The garden café is set in an incredible colonial era mansion with a beautiful garden and is a fantastic place to relax and while away an afternoon. They also do great sweet treats as well as full meals.

Two iced lattes and a slice of chocolate brownie sit on a tablecloth clad table in the pretty gardens of Boupha Garden Cafe — *There isn’t much better than iced lattes and cake on a hot day*

Shadow Puppet theatre

On the banks of the Mekong you can find the Champasak Shadow Puppet Theatre. Every night live musicians and puppeteers perform traditional Laotian stories, myths and legends on the riverside. Tickets cost 100,000 kip per person. The show times vary depending on the audience size, so check times on the day.

Take a cruise on the Mekong

The mighty Mekong river flows slowly through Champasak and is well worth a boat ride if you haven't done this elsewhere already. You can take tours that include a boat trip, charter your own or head out for a sunset cruise along the river. You can arrange this easily through your accommodation walking to the town pier or by contacting Irrawaddy Sunset Cruise. Just remember to negotiate prices!

Rice fields, water and mountains stretch away from the viewer. The mountains are growing hazy in the later afternoon sun.

Accommodation - where to stay in Champasak

Champasak has lots of accommodation, with everything from high end resort hotels to budget friendly guesthouses.

Budget choice - cheaper accommodation

Khamphouy Guesthouse

We are two long term budget backpackers so this was our choice for our brief stay in Champasak. The owner was lovely, the room was clean and the shower hot - what more could we ask for! Khamphouy was just what we needed and nothing we didn't!

Khamphouy also offers scooter and bike rental - it is one of the few in town that do!

Higher end choices -

Residence Bassac

Residence Bassac is set within a gorgeously restored colonial building and boasts what is probably Champasak's fanciest restaurant. It was way above our budget but we did look longingly at the delicious menu and pretty rooms. Have an ogle yourself here.

La Folie Resort

La Folie is set on the neighbouring island of Don Daeng and boasts a swimming pool as well as a very nice sounding restaurant. Again we cannot comment on staying there as we were in our cheap and cheerful guesthouse, but it is one of the best reviewed hotels in the whole region. Check it out here.

Eating and drinking in Champasak

Champasak is full of places to have a nibble or a glass of something to drink. From the high end offerings of Residence Bassac (see above) to cheap and delicious Laotian street food.

We can highly recommend sitting with the locals for a bowl of Khao Piak (noodle soup) inside what looked like the local convenience store. The place has no formal google listing, just look for the tables full of condiments and herbs around here.

A blue and white china plate is piled high with roasted rice, peanuts, lemongrass and herbs. — *The crispy bits of the roasted rice salad were the best!*

Another great meal can be had at Homemade Riverside Restaurant, which serves fantastic refined Laotian food in a pretty garden setting. We especially recommend the crispy rice salad! If you fancy trying your hand at Laotian cooking, the restaurant also offers cooking lessons!

A great choice if you, like us, want good food on a budget is Check-In Restaurant. The epitome of ‘cheap and cheerful’, Check-In serves all the South East Asian favourites for ridiculously low prices. A meal of stir fry and rice can cost only 35,000 kip here!

There are dozens of restaurants all along the Mekong riverside. Some places are associated with guesthouses or hotels but all are open to everyone. The most popular place to mingle and have a sunset beer was the colourful and quirky Champasak With Love. All you really need to do is find a nice table with a riverside view and enjoy - you cannot go too wrong!

Should you stay in Champasak town?

The honest answer to this will ultimately be about how much time you have to spare and where you are travelling from.

We came up from Don Det and Champasak was a great way to break up the journey to Pakse. We very much enjoyed our short stay in Champasak town. The laid back vibes, echoes of faded glory, amazing sunsets, great coffee and good food were more than enough of a reason for us to relax and enjoy our time there. If you are looking for a party, Champasak may not be the one for you though!

A cow is outlined by the neon lights of a decorated roundabout in Champasak town. — *Champasak town isn’t exactly busy after dark. This was the main roundabout in town!*

If you are in Pakse itself and do not have much wiggle room in your Laotian itinerary then it would make sense to "do" Wat Phou as a day trip and skip a stay in Champasak town. If you have your own transport it would be very easy to drive all the way to the ruins in the early morning, leisurely explore them at your own pace, and be back in Pakse by the afternoon.

Champasak is relaxing and has a charm all its own but is not an "essential" stop. If you have the time, however, it is well worth it. Wat Phou is 100% worth a detour or long day out for, it may be the most impressive ruins we have seen outside of Angkor!

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

Jellie smile for a gopro selfie at the top of the ruins at Vat Phou. A huge panaorma of ruins, lakes and forest spreads out below.

If you are looking for more Khmer ruins make sure you check out our complete guide to the temples of Angkor.

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Pakse City - The Gateway to Southern Laos

The city of Pakse is often seen as a ‘one-night stand’ of a place. Used only to leap frog travellers onto the Bolaven Loop or as a stopover on a long Laotian travel day. Give it a chance however and Pakse really rewards you. It’s a fantastic city full of great food, things to do, unique coffee and stunning Mekong sunsets. Read our complete travel guide for everything you need to know to make the most of any stay in Pakse.

Straddling the banks of the Mekong River, the city of Pakse marks the gateway to Southern Laos. Famous for the Four Sisters Waterfalls and the nearby ancient ruins of Wat Phou as well as being the starting line of the Bolaven Loop, the city of Pakse has so much to offer backpackers and travellers.

Pakse doesn’t get much love amongst other travellers, but we have visited the city four times now and have been seduced by its laid back charm. With great coffee, amazing Laotian food and plenty to see and do, read on to find out what not to miss in Laos’ Southern city.

In this Pakse travel guide:

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

A street corner in Pakse holds a busy convenience store is lit up in white lights. Inside are tables, fridges and crates of Beer Laos for sale.

What to do in Pakse

The Bolaven Loop

Pakse marks the beginning and end of the famous Bolaven Loop and is perhaps the most popular reason that backpackers and travellers visit the city. The Bolaven Loop (also known as the Pakse Loop) is an epic multi-day motorcycle / scooter adventure across Laos’ stunning Bolaven Plateau and is a true highlight of Southern Laos. Featuring breathtaking waterfalls, mountain roads and magnificent views, the Bolaven Loop should not be missed!

We absolutely loved riding the Loop and have written a complete guide on what to expect and how to plan your own Loop adventure.

Read more about our epic adventure here:

Laos

The Bolaven Plateau - A Guide to Riding the Pakse Loop

The Bolaven Plateau in Southern Laos is home to one of the country's most famous motorbike rides - The Pakse Loop. We had an amazing time riding around the mountain roads, waterfalls and plateau of this beautiful region. We took it slow and have assembled the ultimate guide to getting the most out of your motorbike or scooter adventure. Our guide includes: renting bikes in Pakse, planning and route itineraries for 1, 2 and more days, the best route map, a guide to eating, staying in and visiting Tad Lo, Paksong and the Four Sisters Waterfalls as well as much much more! Don’t set off on the Bolaven Loop without our complete planning guide!

The Four Sisters Waterfalls

If you don’t fancy driving yourself around the Bolaven Loop you can still enjoy some of its highlights as a day trip from Pakse. The Four Sisters Waterfalls are some of the most famous in Laos (coming only after Luang Prabang’s epic Kuang Si Falls) and are 100% worth a day trip to see.

Tad Fane (location) is the most popular of the falls and is definitely the most photographed! Tad Fane Waterfall is made up of two incredible twin falls that crash down into an enormous jungle crater whilst zip-lines whizz overhead. Access to the two falls are via the Tad Fane Resort where you can even stay the night for prime waterfall viewing.
Tad Yuang (location) is a beautiful set of falls with dramatic viewpoints, both overlooking, and at the base of these towering waterfalls. Get there early as it can get crowded!
Tad Champee (location) is a picture perfect swimming hole and jungle waterfall. Calm, serene and completely different to the other sisters, Tad Champee is perfect for a Laotian picnic and an afternoon dip.
Tad E-Tu Falls (location) is only for the adventurous! Set down a treacherous rubble path and inside an abandoned resort, this fantastic waterfall really rewards the extra exploration. Hidden below the ruins of the resort, the Tad E-Tu waterfall crashes down from the jungle above. The road to the resort is very gravelly, so don’t drive - park at the main road and walk!

To learn more about the Four Sister Waterfalls including entrance fees, opening times and more, make sure to read our Bolaven Loop guide where we cover them all in more detail! You can easily arrange a tour or taxi to see some, or all of the Four Sisters Waterfalls or, if you can drive yourself, they are only an hour's drive east from the city.

If you’re short on time and want to combine the best of the falls with a visit to the ancient ruins of Wat Phou (more on this later) check out this tour from Get Your Guide here.

Wat Phou and the riverside town of Champasak

One of Laos’ best kept secrets are the phenomenal ancient ruins of Wat Phou. Located an hour south of the city of Pakse, this incredible ruined temple complex clings to the side of Mount Phou Khao and overlooks the Mekong River and surrounding countryside. Wat Phou is amazing, full of intricate carvings, magnificent halls and sweeping views. The Wat Phou complex is so much bigger than we expected and was a complete surprise. Honestly, Laos does not promote this enough. It’s an incredible place and we spent the best part of a day exploring the ruins and all their hidden treasures. If you have even more time still, there are hikes and further expeditions in the surrounding area.

We’ve written a full guide to Wat Phou and the nearby charming town of Champasak. Read more here.

A view down over the stone ruins and vast square lake of Wat Phou. The hillside is covered in trees in blossom.

You can easily arrange a driver / tour from Pakse itself, just ask at your accommodation or a tour agency. Or you could combine it with a visit to the Four Sisters Falls with Get Your Guide here.

Wat Phousalao

Wherever you are in Pakse you’ll be being watched over by the enormous golden seated Buddha from the top of the mountain at Wat Phousalao.

It’s free to visit and you have two choices of how to get there:

The lazy way - arranging a taxi or driving yourself straight to the top to enjoy the panoramic views.
The hardcore sweat-tastic way - for those who don’t mind a little bit of a climb, you can park at the bottom of the mountain and climb the 299 steps to the top. We chose to be active and sweated up the steep stairs to summit. It was a short but sharp climb under the scorching Laotian sun but made us feel we had really earned the fantastic views from the top.

A steep stone case rises up above the viewer on the side of the mountain of Phousalao in Pakse.

Whichever way you choose to reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a sweeping vista over the city. The panoramic view is incredible. You really get an idea of the scale and power of the Mekong as it curves around the city below. From this vantage point you can see the whole of Pakse with the countryside and mountains fading off into the distance.

Once you're at the top, the view from the giant Buddha is only half the story. Behind the golden statue are rows upon rows of golden Buddha statues all lined up in various positions. They peek out at you over a hedge, like nosey (but enlightened) neighbours!

Rows of seated, reclinging and standing golden Buddha statues stand behind a green hedgerow covered in red flowers.

There are shops selling refreshments and toilets on-site.

If you’re driving yourself to Wat Phousalao it’s an easy drive across the Laos-Nippon Bridge. The car park at the top is located here but if you want to climb the steps you can park at the bottom here.

There is also another circular walk you can do around the top of the mountain. We didn’t have time on our visit (we were far too hot) but let us know in the comments what we missed!

Wat Phousalao would also make an amazing spot to watch the sunset from.

A huge seated golden Buddha statue looks down on the viewer. Beneath is a small shrine with two smaller seated Buddha statues and a green and gold naga flanked staircase.

Wat Luang

Wat Luang sits in the heart of Pakse’s tourist district and is the spiritual centre of the city. A beautiful Buddhist temple full of golden statues, ornate paintings and colourful prayer halls. Outside on an island in the middle of the road, next to Pakse’s City Pillar is a Buddhist rock garden. When we visited we saw a group of monks selecting and placing the stones in auspicious locations.

The temple grounds run right up against the riverfront and you can walk from them all along the riverfront promenade. This brings us nicely on to…

Mekong River Walk

Along the whole eastern and southern edge of Pakse town is a walking path hugging the Xe Don River until it merges with the mighty Mekong. Popular as a hangout and exercise spot the area really comes alive at sunset. You get fantastic views of the sun burning down the sky, its orange light reflecting across the Mekong before disappearing behind the buildings on the opposite bank.

There is even a sunset beach to relax on but we would recommend just chilling out on the walkway. With its elevated view, you get a fantastic sunset experience. The riverside walkway starts up at the east - Souphanuvong Bridge, passes the beautiful Wat Luang (see above) and continues all the way down to just past the Night Market.

An orange sunset over the Mekong River creates a fiery sky whilst casting the riverbanks in shadow.

Pakse Night Market

This small night market is stuffed full of Laotian food stalls as well as souvenirs, trinkets and clothing. The Pakse Night Market is popular with the locals and tourists all of whom come down to enjoy hot pots, spicy som tam salads and barbecued meats. It’s a great spot to sit down with a bowl of steaming noodles and watch the setting sun.

Pakse's night market is lit up in fairy lights whilst diners sit on plastic tables and chairs and shop for street food in the colourful street food stalls.

As the sun goes down the night market becomes the hub of the city with everyone enjoying Beer Laos, the cool riverside air and music.

The market even sets up a mini race track with electric bikes, scooters and cars for children - it’s super cute!

If you’re after something to do in the evening, Pakse Night Market is a great spot to chill out in.

A stall holder stands behind piles of meat on sticks at a street food stall at Pakse's Night Market.

Explore the local Pakse Markets

As one of Laos biggest cities, Pakse has a plethora of markets to nose around. A market is always a good bet for finding some local food, stocking up on essentials and seeing what fruit and vegetables are in season. We have explored both of Pake’s main markets, one in the centre of town near most of the accommodation and restaurants and one near the southern bridge leading out of town.

A busy covered market is full of clothing and jewellery stalls. In the image local Laotian women can be seen shopping.

Bai Don Pakse Market

Set over two buildings, the Bai Don Pakse Market sits within walking distance of both the riverfront and the bus station.

Inside the first building, stalls spread out in a square selling everything from underwear to mobile phone accessories, toiletries to knock-off sportswear. This side of the market looks as though it was a lot bigger in the past - there are at least two floors of the market that no longer seem to be used. Whilst we were visiting over Lunar New Year, this side of the market was full of offerings to buy, decorations and red envelopes. We even encountered two huge Chinese dragons weaving their way up and down the stalls - we say it often on this blog, but you’ll never know what you’ll come across in Asia!

A huge pile of sandals and sliders are piled high on manequin feet at a market stall in Pakse.

Just over the road is the produce side of the market with huge tarpaulins of fruits for sale, huge plastic vats of rice and enough washing detergent on sale to clean half of Laos! Along one edge of this part of the market, is the bustling food court. Inside, you’ll find the barbecue section, with grilled meats, skewers and sticky rice and outside runs a line of stir fry places. We recommend heading to the furthest stall (on the right as you face the stir fry stalls) and ordering their pork fried rice - it is fantastic and massive. It comes with a runny fried egg and a bowl of soup and was our regular when going on or coming back from a journey in Pakse. Also they have great chilli oil!

Dao Hueng Market - Pakse Main Market

We were quite literally thrown into the melee of the busy Dao Heung Market after catching the early morning songthaew from Champasak. Instead of the bus station, the songthaew dropped us off in the heart of the lively morning market. As we hauled our backpacks on, we had to dodge buckets of fresh fish, mounds of pork trotters and watermelons piled into precarious pyramids.

The Dao Hueng Market is a very local market in every sense with smell, colours and noise assaulting all your senses at once. If you’ve never been to an Asian wet market, you’re in for a treat with this one. Everything on sale is super cheap and super fresh, in fact so fresh some of the livestock is still flapping!

We headed to the market several times during our stay in Pakse and every time the market was different. The car park, once full of butchers in the early morning, would become fresh vegetables during the mid-morning and then fresh fish in the evening. As with all Asian markets, Dao Hueng is a great place to head to if you want to see where the locals shop.

Under the main covered market is a huge food court selling everything from rice soup to fried rice, BBQ meat to salads. If you’re hungry it’s a great place to dine with the locals.

The Dao Heung Market is also a stones throwaway from the neon lights of Pakse’s 7-Eleven store - good if you need to stock up on supplies before the Bolaven Loop!

A street food stall is covered in metal burners and plates next to piles of colourful bowls and plates. Behind the stall sits a Laotian lady wearing a red apron in the heart of a busy market in Pakse.

Sample coffee grown on the nearby Bolaven Plateau

The nearby Bolaven Plateau is known as Laos’ ‘Coffee Country’ and produces over 25,000 tons of Arabica and Robusta beans each year. If you’re in Pakse, trying the local coffee is a must.

Luckily the city has no shortage of coffee shops, and during our several visits, we’ve done all the hard work for you (it’s a tough job) and sampled as many coffee shops as we could. The ones listed below are some of our favourites.

CC 1971@Pakse Cafe

Sister to the famous cafe of the same name located in nearby Paksong (read more about visiting that cafe here), CC 1971@ Pakse Cafe is one of the most unique cafes we’ve ever visited.

Sitting on the banks of the Xe Don River, and set in the ruins of what looks like an old mansion, CC 1971 is as much about the coffee as it is the building.

A huge rusted bomb hangs from the roof of the CC 1971 Cafe of Pakse. Behind it a window is surrounded by a painted black and white skull.

Outside a huge black and white skull has been painted onto the exterior wall and next to it, an enormous bomb sits hanging from the rafters - like its sister cafe, this coffee shop is intent on preserving and showcasing Laos’ war-torn past.

Inside, it’s like time has stood still with original vintage tiles on the floor and paint stripped walls. There have been some modern touches, with the addition of wooden chairs and tables and black metal light fittings, but these all seem to fit in with the antique, old school, mansion vibe. Across some of the walls are old photos of Pakse and plenty of colourful murals. It’s an eclectic mix, which somehow just works.

Once you’ve ordered your coffee, we’d recommend exploring the mansion. It’s a huge maze of small rooms, outdoor balconies and staircases leading to different levels - there’s even a hidden helipad at the top of the cafe with views over the Xe Don river and Pakse. We spent a good while exploring and taking photos - the cafe is super Instagram friendly and very popular with the Laotian youth.

We ordered two orange americano’s which were excellent. Fresh and not too sweet, the zingy orange juice paired perfectly with the fruity beans from the americano. If you’re not a coffee lover, CC 1971 cafe also serves a selection of smoothies, iced teas and sodas as well as quite an extensive drinks with strawberry section!

You can reach CC 1971 by taking a short walk over Souphanuvong Bridge or by driving your scooter there.

If you’re short on time in Pakse and can only fit one coffee shop in, we’d definitely recommend seeking out CC 1971 Cafe.

Despite being such a modern and popular cafe, the prices for coffee were really reasonable, and very similar to other coffee shops we visited in Pakse.

Sitting above the steep grassy banks of the Xe Don River sits the yellow and grey ruins of CC 1971 Cafe Pakse. On its roof top sit 4 flags moving in the breeze.

Rin Coffee

Located opposite Chitpasong Bus Station, Rin Coffee was awesome and definitely the most ‘craft coffee’ of coffee shops on this list.

Set in an old shophouse, Rin Coffee is super stylish. The coffee shop is open to the street with original red and yellow stone tile flooring, a huge sweeping bar, exposed brick, brushed concrete, wooden bench seating and modern lighting - it’s ultra-modern and wouldn’t look out of place in London or New York.

On a black table sit a glass jug filled with an iced latte sitting next to a smaller glass of iced americano. In the background a small Chinese shrine is lit up on the cafe floor.

We visited several times during our stay in Pakse and can highly recommend their iced lattes and americanos.

Both coffees were a work of art, with the baristas handcrafting and finishing each to perfection.

Despite being so upmarket and much more ‘craft coffee’ than other coffee shops in Pakse, it wasn’t expensive. There are two establishments of Rin Coffee in Pakse. This one near the bus station and a second across the river, nearby to CC 1971.

Minimal Cafe’

The Minimal Cafe’ is exactly as it is described in its name - very minimal! Operating out of a cute, garden shed, what this coffee shop lacks in terms of size, delivers full force in its coffee. We ordered an iced latte and a black orange and both were great. The latte was particularly good - a perfect mix of nutty, yet refreshing.

Two plastic cups sit on a metal table and are filled with black orange coffee and an iced latte in the garden of the Minimal Cafe in Pakse.

There’s plenty of shaded seating on camp chairs behind the barista shed. It’s also right next door to Wat Luang, so once you’ve done your sightseeing, we’d heartily recommend following our example by treating yourself to an ice-cold beverage from here!

MUỐI CAFE

This became our ‘go-to’ cafe for a caffeinated beverage. Super friendly baristas, plenty of seating and fantastic iced lattes - the coffee was the perfect balance, not too sweet and not too in your face.

The cafe can get extremely busy with locals, so if it is busy, your coffee can take a little longer to make, but that’s all part of the charm of Muoi Cafe.

It’s also super cheap at 35,000 kip per coffee - a great cafe for those on a budget!

A plastic cup with 'Muoi' written on it is filled with iced latte at the Muoi coffee shop in Pakse.

100% Arabica Bakery

If you’re not after noodle soup for breakfast and after a taste of France, then we’d definitely recommend seeking out breakfast from the 100% Arabica Bakery. This small cafe offers a small selection of homemade bread and pastries, alongside coffee, juices and sandwiches.

We picked up two hot cappuccino’s and a pain au chocolat and both were excellent. The pain au chocolat’s were crispy and stuffed with chocolate and the cappuccino a perfect pairing against the sweet pastry. If you’re visiting, don’t be put off by the pale rolls proving outside, the fully cooked pastries inside are amazing!

100% Arabica Bakery is also right next door to our favourite guesthouse in the city, the Nangnoi Guesthouse.

The Lucky Coffee

If you’re looking to find other backpackers to complete the Bolaven Loop with, you’re bound to run into some in ‘The Lucky Coffee’ cafe. This small, modern cafe was always super busy with other travellers and whenever we visited, served good coffee.

They also have a small menu offering breakfast plates, Laos favourites and backpacker staples. Although our eyes were drawn to the delicious looking chocolate brownies!

A glass of iced latte is placed on a wooden table with a sticker showing a black shamrock and text saying 'The Lucky Cafe'.

Where to eat and drink in Pakse

Pakse is full of food. Almost every other building in the city is some form of restaurant, food stall or cafe! In fact there was so much choice on offer we didn’t try half of the places we wanted.

If you’re unsure as to what to eat and want to try some Laotian favourites, then definitely head to the local day markets we’ve mentioned above, or to the Night Market in the evening. For coffee, just check out all the lovely craft coffee shops we mentioned in the last section.

Sitting under bright white lights on a market street food stall are piles of wooden sticks full of sausages, meat balls and crabsticks. On the shelf above are huge baskets of salad, chilli's and a dipping sauce.

For those who want a sit down meal, or just some budget backpacker friendly options, here are some of our favourite places we’ve eaten in Pakse!

Phonesay Noodle Soup

On our first trip to Pakse (we have been 3 more times since), we arrived at a nearly deserted city. The streets were a complete ghost town with no-one in sight and almost every shop, cafe and restaurant shut up. We had arrived mid-afternoon just before the start of the New Year’s Eve celebrations and it seemed like the whole of Pakse was at a New Years party we hadn’t been invited to!

After a long overnight bus journey from Bangkok to Pakse, we were in desperate need of food and didn’t fancy seeing in the new year in a state of starvation.

A blue and white bowl is filled with egg noodles, slices of red pork and spring onions at a street food stall in Pakse.

We wandered around the empty streets not finding anything but small supermarkets, before John spotted a never-ending wisp of steam coming from a burner set on the side of the street. We dove in and pointed to the noodle pot.

Out came two bowls of delicious steaming bowls of porky noodles topped with deep fried garlic and slices of tender pork. This little Khao Piak stall had saved us from starvation!

If you’re into blood cake with your noodles, make sure you ask for it. The lady who owned the stall, decided we were fussy farangs and didn’t give it to us. Not having it didn’t make the bowl any less tasty, we just love blood cake and it adds another aspect to any bowl!

Pork and Rice

This super popular breakfast and lunch spot was busy from opening until closing with locals. Specialising in meat and rice, the restaurant serves all kinds of pork - crispy, red and stewed as well as braised chicken and stewed duck all over rice.

A white plate is filled with a mountain of white rice. On top of the rice is red pork and a red gravy sauce, half a boiled egg and slices of cucumber. On the wooden table is a white bowl of clear soup broth and a ramekin of spicy sauce.

We ordered two plates of red pork and rice and out came huge plates of pork covered in a thick, bright red sauce. Served alongside was a bowl of soup and half an egg. Unlike the sweet, savoury sesame gravy we’ve been used to with Kao Moo Dang in Thailand, this sauce was studded with a rich tomato flavour - almost like Laotian bolognese!

Our first bite took us completely by surprise and although a little unsure, it grew on us with every mouthful. Do not forget to grab loads of the extra ginger chilli sauce from the counter, it really takes the plate to a whole new level and is the perfect zingy accompaniment to the sweet, tomato sauce.

If you’re staying at the nearby Anou Hostel, it’s a great spot to head for lunch!

Barbecue Street

This is our favourite street for evening food in Pakse!

As the sun goes down, the street fills with the smoke and sizzle of Laotian barbecues. Everything is takeaway only so just cruise from shop to shop grabbing pork belly skewers, roasted chicken, chilli pastes and, most importantly in Laos, sticky rice - you really haven't sampled the best of Laotian food until you've had a cutlery free sticky rice feast!

We’ve sampled meat from almost every BBQ stall on this street, but the one we’ve linked above was our favourite. Each time we would head over and just point to the different cuts of grilled meat we wanted and order enough sticky rice for two.

Sitting on a metal grill are piles of grilled pork on sticks sit next to small Chinese sausages, half grilled chickens, eggs and bags of curry at BBQ street food stall in Pakse.

This street is extremely backpacker budget friendly: a huge mound of sticky rice for two, grilled pork belly, a huge leg of roasted chicken and a side of sweet Chinese sausage cost us just 65,000 kip!

People often are very cautious about eating this kind of street food and worry about whether the meat is cooked or not. We cannot guarantee anything, but we have eaten it many many times and never had any bad experiences. The meals we picked up from this street were some of our favourite meals we’ve eaten in the whole of Laos. If you’re travelling beware of psychosomatic tummy troubles - if you are nervous about travel and fixate on worrying about food you are much more likely to feel ill!

Lao - Viet Noodles

We cannot recommend this noodle soup shop enough! We stumbled into it with our backpacks on, after a very early morning bus ride from Champasak. We had been sitting in the back of a songthaew for nearly an hour picking up passengers before the sun had risen properly, and possibly for the first time in the whole of this trip to Laos we were quite chilly and hungry for breakfast.

We ordered and out came two huge bowls of steaming noodle soup. Crispy belly pork sat floating in a deeply flavoured broth, along with chewy noodles, blood cake, beansprouts, pork patties, coriander, half an egg and a hearty scattering of crispy garlic. It was delicious and everything we had hoped it would be. Full of sweet pork, in a punchy, garlic-heavy broth. It was hearty, warming and perfect after our early start.

Our big bowls cost 45,000 kip each - an absolute steal for the size of the bowl!

In a green bowl sit strings of yellow egg noodles, blood cake, pork patties, slices of crisp pork, half a boiled egg, corriander and fried garlic all sitting in a clear soup broth. Above the bowl is a blue plastic basket full of salad leafs and herbs — *This bowl is making us hungry just looking at it!*

Pho Lankham Noodles

This huge, warehouse style restaurant is super popular come lunchtime where the whole of Pakse’s office workers descend on it to slurp up bowls of steaming noodles. We popped in during their busy lunchtime rush and ordered up two big bowls of beef pho.

The pho, although definitely Vietnamese in origin, had a Laotian twist with lots of deep fried garlic giving it a crunchy, caramelised hit to the rich beef broth.

Both bowls came with plates piled high with crunchy green vegetables and the savoury, peanut dip served with all Laos noodle soups.

A white bowl is filled with white rice noodles, slices of beef, slices of spring onions and fried garlic all sitting in a pho broth.

Champa Hom Restaurant

If you are looking for more of a sit-down-restaurant meal Champa Hom is a great choice. Located just a short walk away from the riverfront and night market, Champa Hom is a quirky, cool little restaurant serving all the SE Asian favourites. Decked out in wood and full of old photos and memorabilia, it feels a bit like you’ve stumbled into Laos’ take of a Western Country bar. We can especially recommend their creamy green curry soup and their spicy som tam salads. Also their fried fish studded with garlic is a must!

As we were filling up before we embarked on riding the Bolaven Loop we ordered a massive feast. As it’s a restaurant expect prices to be a little more than on the street, but for what you get, it’s really not bad.

Banh Mi

(location - everywhere!)

All over town you will find small carts serving up Vietnamese style banh mi - including the ubiquitous Laughing Cow cheese and all! These stuffed baguettes make a great light lunch and are extremely cheap at 15,000 kip each. We grabbed some to go one afternoon so we could eat on our bikes without having to find a restaurant. All the stalls serve similar style banh mi with crispy baguettes, meaty rich pate, tangy pickles along with sliced meats, chilli sauce and more. Another great budget backpacker friendly staple!

Where to stay in Pakse?

Hostels in Pakse

Anou Hostel

Anou Hostel was one of the most comfiest stays we had in the whole of our Laos trip - in fact we actually stayed with them twice during our visits to Pakse. We stayed in one of their private rooms and it was everything we needed. A huge, comfy double bed, good shower and plenty of room to unpack.

Anou Hostel offers plenty of dorm rooms, free breakfast in the morning, motorbike rental and a small restaurant on-site.

Book your stay with Anou Hostel here.

Kai Lions International Capsule Hostel Pakse

As the name says on the tin, Kai Lion’s Hostel is a capsule hostel full of small comfy pods, with personal fan and light. Downstairs is a small common room and the very clean shared bathrooms.

We stayed at Kai Lion’s before riding the Bolaven Loop and had a fantastic stay. Kai himself is a wealth of knowledge about the city of Pakse, the Bolaven Loop and where to eat and is always happy to help with any questions. Like Anou Hostel, Kai also rents scooters for the Loop.

Book your stay with Kai Lion’s Hostel here.

For all the other hostels available in Pakse, click here.

Rows and rows of seated and standing golden Buddha's rise up above the viewer at Phu Salao in Pakse.

Guesthouses in Pakse

Nangnoi Guesthouse & Others

Very close to both Anou Hostel and Kai Lion’s is the excellent Nangnoi Guesthouse. We actually came here by accident, after a different hostel (none of the above) double booked our room during the busy Lunar New Year period and we had to find a new bed. Luckily Nangnoi had room.

Spread over two buildings (a newer and an older building), Nangnoi offers private and twin rooms with en-suite bathrooms. We’ve stayed in both the newer and older building during our stays in Pakse and have had very comfy nights in both.

Unfortunately there’s no way to book Nangnoi Guesthouse online, but to check out what other guesthouses are on offer in Pakse, click here.

Nangnoi also offers motorbike rental as well as transport and tour bookings.

Two motorcycles are parked in front of a Chinese shop house on a street corner in Pakse. — *The streets of Pakse are filled with old-style shophouses and buildings!*

Hotels in Pakse

There are a couple of hotels dotted along the riverfront and in the city of Pakse. As we were on a backpacking budget we didn’t get to sample a slice of luxury, but other Bolaven Loopers we spoke to, had a fantastic stay at the Intouch Riverside Hotel. Offering private rooms with views over the Mekong and a rooftop swimming pool, it looked like a great place to treat yourself in Pakse - we were certainly jealous of the sunset views when we saw the hotel from the Night Market.

Book your stay at the Intouch Riverside Hotel here.

To check out all hotels available in Pakse click here.

The exterior wall of Wat Luang temple is covered in red and gold carvings and small stupas.

All accommodation available in Pakse

To check out all the accommodation available in Pakse and to book for your dates, search using the handy map below:

The Best Time to Visit Pakse

The best time to visit Pakse and the peak time for tourism is between October and April. During these months you’ll have drier days with super sunny skies and hot temperatures, but attractions will be busier and accommodation more expensive and transport and bike rentals will sell out extremely quickly.

The low season runs during Laos’ rainy season which hits from May to September. During this time you’ll see far fewer tourists and find cheaper accommodation but you will be at mercy of the weather. The monsoon season in Laos is very wet and humid and as a consequence, travel / transport in Pakse may be disrupted.

If you are hoping to do the Bolaven scooter loop we would highly recommend the dry season - Laotian roads would be pretty treacherous in the rain and mud of the wet season!

A saffron robed young monk hides from the sun under a bright orange scarf as he walks in flipflops across a tiled temple courtyard. — *It gets very hot in Laos - even the locals need to find shade!*

How to Get to Pakse?

Getting to Pakse from within Laos

Pakse is extremely well connected with direct bus links to Savannakhet, Thakhek, Vientiane and Vang Vieng in the north and to Champasak, Don Det and the 4000 Islands in the south.

To book your tickets to Pakse, check out all your options with 12GO below.

Most buses arriving from Laos will arrive at Pakse’s Chitpasong Bus Station located here. From this bus station you can easily walk to most of the hostels and guesthouses in the city, but if you need a tuk tuk, there will be plenty waiting for you when you arrive.

To fly to the city, Pakse International Airport is located 10 KM (20 minute drive) away from downtown Pakse - located here. The airport is very small and has approximately 4 flights arriving from / departing to Vientiane a day. If you’re short on time, catching a flight from Vientiane to Pakse will save you from having to sit through a very bumpy, 11 hour bus ride to reach the city - Laos’ roads are not for the weak!

In the foreground sits one half of a huge seated golden Buddha statue. Behind the Mekong River stretches away to the horizon, whilst the city of Pakse lines the riverbank. Above, a propeller plane begins its descent. — *From the Golden Buddha you can see the planes coming into land at Pakse airport.*

From Thailand - Crossing the Thai-Laos Border between Ubon Ratchathani and Pakse

The Thai-Laos border between Ubon Ratchathani and Pakse is a popular crossing point for backpackers and travellers, heading between Thailand and Laos. In fact, on our first visit to Pakse, we left Bangkok and took an overnight bus to Ubon Ratchathani where we transferred to another bus and headed over the border to Pakse.

There are direct buses that run daily linking the Thai capital of Bangkok with Pakse, but due to the New Year, tickets for these had sold out, so if you’re planning to travel from Bangkok to Pakse, we’d highly recommend booking your tickets well in advance - book your tickets here.

The Thai-Laos border is very straight forward, and you can pay for your Laos visa in both US dollars and Thai baht.

After you’ve gone through the border it's only a very quick 50 minute journey to the city of Pakse. The border bus should drop you off in Pakse around here at the Kiengkai Bus Station. The bus station is on the other side of town to most of the accommodation but you can easily get a tuk tuk or taxi - just remember to negotiate. If you are looking to leave Laos and head to Thailand then the Kiengkai Bus station is the one you would catch the bus to the border from.

A white and blue bus ticket for Pakse is held up to the viewer at Ubon Ratchathani Bus Station.

From Cambodia - Crossing the Nong Nok Khiene Border

The border with Cambodia at Nong Nok Khiene is only a 2.5 to 3 hour drive away. You can easily head to Pakse by catching a bus from Siem Reap, Kratie or Stung Treng. Have a look at 12Go and check out the routes.

Where to go After Pakse

From Pakse you have two real choices: unless you’ve come to the end of your Laos visa and you’re planning on crossing an international border to Thailand or Cambodia - You can head north or south.

Places to visit north of Pakse

The riverside city of Savannakhet is around a 4 hour drive (240 KM) north of Pakse. Full of funky street art, an awesome night market set in the ruins of an old cinema complex and plenty of coffee shops, it was one of our highlights of Southern Laos. You can find out all about the city, in our full travel guide to Savannakhet here. From Savannakhet, you can book international buses to Hanoi, Hue and Danang in Vietnam.

Book Pakse to Savannakhet bus tickets here.

North of Savannakhet lies the city of Thakhek and another jaw-dropping motorbike adventure around the beautiful Thakhek Loop (read more about riding the Thakhek Loop here). After our own Pakse Loop we had been fully infected with the motorbike bug and knew we had to take on the Thakhek Loop ourselves. Check out our full guide to the city of Thakhek here.

Book Pakse to Thakhek bus tickets here.

If you fancy a long bus ride, or a short flight, the Laotian capital of Vientiane is full of beautiful temples, Mekong views and a bizarre park full of huge Buddhist and Hindu statues - read more about what there is to do in Vientiane here.

Book Pakse to Vientiane transfers here.

For those heading to the adventure and backpacking capital of Laos, Vang Vieng is a 13 hour bus ride north. We’ve spent over a fortnight in Vang Vieng climbing its stunning viewpoints, riding in a hot air balloon and swimming in its famous Blue Lagoons - check out our complete Vang Vieng guide here.

Book your Pakse to Vang Vieng bus tickets here.

The Laos Nippon bridge stretches over the Mekong River connecting Phu Salao mountain with the city of Pakse. The riverbank is covered in hotels, houses and shops.

Places to visit south of Pakse

From Pakse it’s only a short half hour drive to the ancient Khmer ruins of Wat Phou and the riverside town of Champasak. We spent a few days here enjoying its laid-back charm and exploring the incredible ruins - Laos really needs to showcase Wat Phou more. You can read our full guide to Champasak here.

Book Pakse to Champasak bus tickets here.

Further south around a 2 and a half hour drive is Don Det, Don Khon and the 4000 Islands. We spent 6 weeks on Don Det and it’s quickly become one of our all-time favourite spots in Asia.

Book Pakse to Don Det tickets here.

If you’re heading to Cambodia, there are direct buses leaving Pakse daily that take travellers to: Stung Treng on the border, Kratie as well as Siem Reap, the home of Angkor Wat - book your bus tickets here.

For those heading back into Thailand, you can either book transport straight back to Bangkok here or like us, you can start a big Isan exploration, starting in Ubon Ratchathani.

You can also travel to Central and South Vietnam from the bus station, check out 12Go here.

A carved stone is wrapped in colourful ribbons. Behind the red, white and gold city pillar rises up. It's roof made up of 3 individual triangular tiers. — *Don’t miss the ornate Pakse City Pillar just outside Wat Luang!*

Final thoughts - is Pakse worth a trip?

Absolutely, no doubt 100%! Pakse really deserves so much more than just a quick overnight stop before or after riding the Bolaven Loop. With its lively riverfront, amazing hilltop Buddha, serene temples and cute coffee shops there is more than enough to fill a few days of relaxed travel.

How long you spend in Pakse will, of course, depend on your travel itinerary. If you only have a day you could see most of the sights but the town rewards a slower pace of travel. Pakse feels like a real living Laotian city. We have visited the city four times now and have really fallen in love with its food, charm, buzzing markets and Mekong views.

Two dogs can be seen sleeping on the floor of Wat Luang temple. The temple is made up of red and gold pillars and an ornate painted roof. — *The temple dogs at Wat Luang were so cute!*

Pakse is a great spot to set up a base and explore some of Southern Laos’ best attractions. With a central location and many transport options Pakse will almost certainly be at least a stopover on any Laotian itinerary. The city is close to both the Thai and Cambodian border so would also make for a great start / end of your Laotian adventure.

Many people just pass through Pakse, or see it as a ‘one night stand’ of a town, give it a chance and its charms will grow on you!

We love Pakse and hope you do.

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

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The Bolaven Plateau - A Guide to Riding the Pakse Loop

The Bolaven Plateau sits in the heart of Southern Laos. Famous for delicious coffee and stunning waterfalls, the plateau is also home to an incredible motorbike journey - The Bolaven Loop.

The Loop starts in the city of Pakse, winds north up into the Bolaven Plateau, stops at the beautiful town of Tad Lo, curves east through mountains and plains before striking back west taking you past the legendary ‘Four Sisters Waterfalls’, before finishing back where you started.

The Bolaven Loop is very special for us as it was our introduction into long distance motorcycle, or at least scooter, adventures. We have been driven before with ‘Easy Riders’ in Ha Giang and Cao Bang, but the Bolaven Loop was our first solo motorbike adventure.

This is our complete guide to everything you need to know about planning and riding the Bolaven Loop of Laos.

- Conclusion - Is the Bolaven Loop worth it?

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

A view over the Bolaven Plateau from the top of Tat Soung Waterfall. Stetching to the horizon are flat fields and rolling blue hills.

All about the Bolaven Loop - Essential Facts and Information

What is the Pakse / Bolaven Loop?

The Bolaven or Pakse Loop is a multi-day motorbike journey that takes riders through the plains, mountains and waterfalls of Laos’ Bolaven Plateau. Famous for the ‘Four Sisters Waterfalls’, Tad Lo Village and epic drives through coffee plantations, the Bolaven Loop is popular with backpackers and is an amazing adventure for anyone with any level of driving experience.

Where is the Bolaven Loop?

The Bolaven Plateau is found in Southern Laos. The route circles around the Dong Hua Sao National BioDiversity Conservation Area, you can find the region on a map here.

The start of the Bolaven Loop is the city of Pakse, which is 670 KM drive south of Laos’ capital Vientiane and 160 KM drive north of Don Det, the 4000 Islands and the Nong Nok Khiene border with Cambodia.

Pakse is a fantastic city and well worth a visit in its own right. Make sure you check out our complete travel guide to the city here.

To get to or from Pakse and the start of the Loop, check out our 12Go ticket booker below.

How long is the Loop?

The Bolaven / Pakse Loop is 200 KM long for the most popular route. You can extend this to 300 KM, by adding an excursion to Sekong - more on this later!

How to Plan Your Ride Around the Bolaven Loop

How many days do I need to ride the Loop?

The basic Loop can be done in as little as 2 days (1 night) but we would recommend taking your time and spending at least 3 days (2 nights) on the Loop.

Our suggested itinerary (see below) assumes you spend at least 2 nights, but has a couple of suggestions if you want to stay longer!

If you choose to do the extra extension to Sekong you will need to allow at least an extra night if not two.

Cascades of white water drop down over flat brown rock into blue pools at the Tad Hang Falls in Tad Lo village.

Route map of the Bolaven Loop

Before you set off on the Loop, you’ll need a map. Luckily, the lovely people at Pakse Info have done all the hard work and made a fantastic map of the Bolaven Loop.

The map is free to download and shows all of the sights/stops as well as alternate routes and road conditions. Just download Maps.me and add the map overlay.

Download the Bolaven Loop Map Here

Make sure you check out their other Southern Laos routes, they really have gone above and beyond with their maps!

P.s believe the map when it warns you about dodgy roads - it is not exaggerating!

If you’re having trouble seeing the map or connecting to the website, make sure your VPN is set to a location outside of Laos. If you’re looking for a good VPN, for the last 3 years we have been using SurfShark - check it out here!

Before you set off, make sure you have both Maps.me and Google Maps downloaded for offline use - mobile signal in Laos can be very patchy!

Golden paddy fields spread out in squares in amongst yellow and green trees on the Bolaven Plateau, Laos.

Loop itineraries - Planning your Bolaven motorbike road trip

There is no “right way” to do the Loop. You can take it as slow as you want or rush through like Speedy Gonzales, it's your adventure - you do you!

We would recommend a minimum 2 nights itinerary but if you have the time it is well worth doing what we did and extending an extra day for relaxing and exploring.

This is our route through the Bolaven Loop - for map references and more detail about all the stops, read on to our “what not to miss" section of this guide.

Day 1 - Pakse to Tad Lo Village

The Bolaven Loop starts in the city of Pakse. You can get here from all over Laos by using the bus network. Check out 12Go for all your options.

We would recommend staying one night in the city beforehand to arrange your bike and leave your larger bags. We will go into more detail about where to rent your bike and where to stay in Pakse later on in the article. Our quick recommendations for where to stay in Pakse are Kai Lion’s Hostel, Anou Hostel or Nangnoi Guesthouse. We have stayed in all three and can confirm they’re all great at what they offer. All three also offer bike rental and luggage storage.

We’d recommend an early start on day 1 so you can avoid the morning traffic in Pakse. Leave the city on Road 13 / 16e heading east before turning on to Road 20 heading north. You can stop in the town of Bachiang for a bowl of noodles if you’ve missed breakfast.

Just outside of Bachiang town, take a short detour to the abandoned resort and waterfalls at Pha Suam Waterfall and Maak Ngaew Waterfall. Continuing north on road 20, stop for coffee and an optional plantation tour at Mr Vieng’s Coffee and homestay.

John looks at the camera smiling, wearing black trousers, a black t-shirt and black trainers. He is stnading on a huge boulder above the fast flowing water of Pha Suam Waterfall. — *Pha Suam Waterfall was amazing in the dry season - you can walk all the way to the edge. If you Google the falls, you will see how different it is in during the rainy season.*

Once caffeined up, we’d recommend making a bee-line to the overnight stop of Tad Lo Village. This will mean you’ll get the pick of the best rooms and accommodation plus you can then spend the rest of the afternoon leisurely backtracking and exploring all the sights.

Extra day in Tad Lo

As you’ll see in a moment, there is a lot to see and do around Tad Lo Village. If you have the time, we’d recommend slowing down and booking 2 nights in Tad Lo - this means you can really get out and explore.

Around Tad Lo make sure you don’t miss the following:

Wat Pa (Big Buddha Forest Temple)
Tat Soung Waterfall
Tad Lo Waterfall
Sacred Forest Walk
Tad Hang Waterfall
Tad Lo Village and Fandee Island
Tad Lo Market

We will go into more detail about these stops later in this guide - Click here to jump to the full descriptions.

Adventures of Jellie pose for a GoPro selfie on top of Tat Soung Waterfall. Behind them the flat plains and rolling hills of the Bolaven Plateau stretch out towards the horizon. — *Tat Soung Waterfall - Do not miss the view from the top!*

Day 2 - Tad Lo to Paksong via the ‘Mountain Loop’

Have a leisurely breakfast in Tad Lo and check out any of the sites you’ve missed before heading east out of the village on Road 20. At the town of Beng turn off road 20 and head south.

Just before Thateng town, you have the choice to stop for a village tour at Captain Hook’s Homestay or to continue on to do the ‘mountain loop’ ride.

At the town of Thateng, you can stop for lunch, explore the market, pick up snacks or, in our case, get a new rear tyre fitted!

From Thateng it’s a short drive south to reach the junction for the ‘mountain loop’. We massively recommend doing this route anti-clockwise as you’ll get the best views and most dramatic mountain roads this way. The mountain loop took us just under an hour and a half to complete, but this included a lot of stopping along the way for photos!

Yellow grass sits in the foreground of the photo whilst behind rolling hills covered in green trees fade away to the distance on a mountain road in the Bolaven Plateau.

The ‘mountain loop’ road will eventually bring you back to the town of Thateng where you’ll continue south on road 16 towards the town of Paksong where we’d recommend spending the night. Outside of Paksong are lots of coffee farms with cafes and farm tours. In Paksong itself is the famous ‘Cafe 1971’ - coffee served in the ruins of a soviet power station!

If you’re really short on time you could leave Tad Lo early in the morning, do the ‘Mountain Loop’ and fit in some (or maybe all) of the ‘Four Sisters Falls’ before driving back to Pakse in the evening. It would be a long day, but totally doable if you don’t have the time to spare!

Day 3 - Paksong to Pakse via the “Four Sisters Waterfalls”

The last day's ride is basically one straight line running from Paksong to Pakse along roads 16e and 13.

This might not sound exciting but this one stretch of road will bring you past some of the most amazing waterfalls in Asia - the famous ‘Four Sisters Falls’. These four waterfalls are all a short drive from the main road, some of them more accessible than others!

The main stops for this day are:

Tad Gneuang Waterfall
Tad Fane Waterfall
Tad Champee Waterfall
Tad E-Tu Waterfall and Abandoned Resort

Again, make sure you check out the full description in the ‘what to see’ section later.

On the road back to Pakse there are plenty of places to stop for food and drink. We’d recommend grabbing a delicious pork fried rice from KM Restaurant (opposite a beautiful Buddhist temple) and stopping for an excellent iced latte at the Weekend Cafe. Pretty soon you’ll find yourself on the same road you started on coming back into the city of Pakse - Bolaven Loop complete!

Two white waterfalls tumble down a steep rocky cliff covered in green foliage into a deep, dark pool of water at the bottom.

Planning pitfalls - Too much information and following the crowd

If you are googling the Bolaven loop then you will run into the institution that is Miss Noy and the nightly Bolaven prep talks. Every night a crowd of backpackers gather for a guided talk on riding the loop. This meetup would be a great way to find a group to ride with if you are a solo traveller - nearly everybody in town is at this meeting and will then follow Miss Noy’s route.

This is a great idea if you’re looking to travel alongside others, but we would give a word of caution here - you would be doing the exact same loop as everyone else, so expect to share the road, stops and sights with many other loopers. We chose to ride the Loop completely independently and found our own way. This meant we left town by ourselves, weren’t stuck in a convoy of bikers and had every attraction either to ourselves or with only a few others.

Miss Noy’s recommends stops for scheduled events e.g. the village tours at Captain Hook’s and the farm tours at Mr Vieng’s. This means there is a concentration of riders arriving at or leaving places at certain times of day. Following the crowd also means you’re much more likely to get stuck at the back of the queue for accommodation as you will arrive in the middle of a big group.

One other unexpected benefit we found by missing the nightly briefing was that we did not know what to expect! There were several bridges and roadworks along the route that ,if we had known about beforehand, would have played on our mind no end. As we didn’t know about the roadworks, we didn’t worry about them and just took the challenges as they came!

We are not by any means slagging off or saying don’t go to Miss Noy’s! We’re just saying don’t be afraid of a more independent adventure and don’t feel that you have to follow the crowd!

A blue and white bowl is filled with rice noodles, slices of beef, spring onions and deep fried garlic sitting in a brown soup broth. Next to the bowl of soup are Honda scooter keys and a bowl of green vegetables. — *Travelling as a duo meant we could stop whenever we got hungry and didn’t have to wait long for our food!*

Renting a Scooter or Bike in Pakse

Now you’ve sorted your itinerary, it’s time to rent your bike.

Throughout Pakse there are no shortage of places to rent scooters and motorbikes. Just like we did for the Thakhek Loop, we opted to spend the extra money and rented two shiny new 125CC Honda Clicks.

John sits on a red and black Honda Click 125 cc scooter wearing a black t-shirt and trousers. Next to him is another Honda Click scooter parked up. Behind him sit a row of parked lorries and the main highway road out of Pakse. — *John posing with our shiny Honda Clicks at the start of the Bolaven Loop!*

We rented our bikes from Kai Lion’s Hostel and Bike Hire and although they did cost a little more, they were absolutely brand new. Kai was also brilliant, offering support throughout the Loop via WhatsApp and giving us tons of information before we left. When we ran into a flat tyre on the road, we just called him up and he spoke with the garage to sort it out.

If you want to spend less, you absolutely can - just make sure you test out and choose a bike you’re comfortable riding. The most popular places to rent bikes from are Kai Lion’s, Miss Noy’s and Peterpan’s Bike Rental.

Motorbike rentals cost from 150,000 kip to 200,000 kip per day.

All motorbike and scooter rentals will provide you with a helmet. Make sure it fits properly and wear it all the time.

Once you’re on the Loop, you can easily extend your rental by contacting the place where you rented your bike from - make sure to get their WhatsApp number before you head off!

If you’re planning to ride the Loop during peak season (November to early March) make sure you agree your bike rental in advance. We headed to Kai’s a couple of days before leaving on the Loop and managed to snag his last two bikes. We met a few other wannabe riders who weren’t so lucky. There are loads of bikes to rent in town, but you don’t want to be stuck with the bottom of the barrel!

Which motorbike do I need - Automatic or manual?

Before riding the Loop we had heard that you had to ride a semi-automatic or manual - this is definitely not the case!

You can ride any type of bike you want on the Loop. Manual, automatic, semi -whatever you fancy you’ll have no problems on the roads. Even the so-called ‘mountain loop’ has only gentle slopes and most of the rest of Loop is entirely flat. To reach some of the waterfalls there are some “off-road” sections but we had no issues on our fully automatic scooters.

If you’re riding with a pillion passenger you may want to opt for a bigger or newer bike.

Ellie smiles at the camera whilst sitting on a red Honda Click 125cc motorbike. She is wearing a black t-shirt, trousers, trainers and a helmet. In the background a mountain rises up to the sky.

Where to stay - Accommodation on the Bolaven Loop

Where to stay in Pakse

Kai’s Capsule Hostel

We stayed here the night before setting off on our Loop and it was a great launchpad for the loop. We had comfy private capsule beds in the large mixed dorm. Kai himself was fantastic and gave us all the information we could possibly need for the Loop as well as giving ongoing support via Whatsapp

Book your stay at Kai Lion’s Hostel here.

Anou Hostel

A social, upmarket hostel with both dorms and comfy private rooms. We have stayed here a couple of times and the private en-suite room was spacious and super comfy. There is a restaurant on site and you get free breakfast included with your stay.

Book Anou Hostel here.

Nang Noi Guesthouse

We came here completely by accident after another hostel (none of the above!) overbooked us. Nang Noi has now become our go-to bed in Pakse. It is well priced, comfy and in a great location. We’ve stayed at the guesthouse twice, once in the cheaper “old building” and once in the “newer” rooms. Both stays were cheap and comfy and the rooms even had balconies - to book a stay at Nang Noi, just contact them directly.

If you’re after a more luxurious, more upmarket stay, there is a lovely riverside hotel with rooftop pool that we looked at several times with great envy - book your stay at the Intouch Riverside Hotel here - This would make a great reward for completing the Loop!

For all other Pakse accommodation choices (there are loads) click here.

Tad Lo Accommodation

There are plenty of small guesthouses in the village of Tad Lo. If you get there early, we recommend securing yourself a riverside room at Sipasert Guesthouse.

We had a super cheap, super basic room with a shared balcony overlooking the river and falls. The room was perfect for our needs, but don’t go expecting the Hilton - you are in rural Laos! We just rocked up and negotiated a price, but if you want to book in advance you can do so online here.

A view over Sipasert Guesthouse, a broken bridge and Tad Lo River on the Bolaven Loop. — *Sipasert Guesthouse is the last building on the right next to the broken bridge!*

If you’re after a unique and slightly higher class stay check out the glamping, huts and bungalows of Fandee Island.

Tad Lo Village has loads of places set up for loopers. Most of the cheaper guesthouses are clustered near the river and waterfall here.

For all your accommodation options (including some higher class offerings) have a look here.

Paksong

We stayed at Kai Lion’s Hostel Paksong, the sister hostel to Kai Lion’s Pakse. Super simple, super cheap with both private and dorms, the hostel was perfect for our night in Paksong. Book your stay here.

If you’re looking for a one of a kind stay right in the heart of the most famous of the “Four Sisters Falls”, check out a stay at Tad Fane Resort.

What to pack for the Loop

You’ll want to pack as light as possible for the Loop and ideally take just one small rucksack or sling bag. Almost all the hostels and guesthouses in Pakse will store your larger backpacks whilst you’re on the Loop. If for some reason your accommodation doesn’t have luggage storage, the place where you rent your scooter from almost certainly will.

Whilst riding the Loop we wore lightweight athletic gear and good trainers / trail runners - do not attempt to ride your bike in flip flops!

We’d recommend packing the following:

Comfy, lightweight clothes
A hoodie or jumper - it can get cold in the evening / early mornings
Swimwear and towel
Wet coat - the tropics are unforgiving in the rain!
Flip flops for the evening - give your stinky trainers a rest!
Toiletries
First aid kit - hopefully you won’t need it!
Sunglasses (essential even when overcast - you don not want to be hit by insects at motorway speeds!)
Scarf / snood / face masks to deal with dust and car fumes
Mobile phone lanyard - super useful for navigating if you don’t have / don’t trust your bikes phone holder. Also great for quick snaps! If you don’t have one you can buy one in Pakse at the phone accessory shop just over the road from Anou Hostel (location).

Ellie stands with her back to the camera wearing black leggings, a black t-shirt and a Salkan daypack. Behind her the Tad Champee Waterfalls stream down in 3 falls into a pool of water. — *Tad Yeung Waterfall is stunning!*

Other Bolaven Loop routes and itineraries

One night, two day itinerary

If you’revery short on time you could definitely condense our itinerary above into 1 night and 2 days. Just set off early from Pakse on the first day, head straight to Tad Lo and explore the sights and waterfalls around the village. Stay overnight in Tad Lo before setting off early the next day, ride the “mountain loop” and power straight through to the Four Sisters Waterfalls before heading back to Pakse. This would be a busy two days, but if you’re short on time it would be a good way to cram a lot of the Loop in.

Longer itineraries

If you look at the Bolaven Loop map, you’ll see that there is a much larger, multi-day loop that takes you right into the Laotian countryside through to the small city of Sekong. You can even extend the large loop further by heading towards the Vietnamese border and the town of Attapeu.

At the time of writing we were recommended not to do the Attapeu Loop as there had been multiple reports of Loopers being robbed along the way. We don’t know if this is just hearsay, or what the situation is like now. If you do the longer route, please let us know what we missed in the comments.

Tad Tayicseua Valley

Marcel from Laos Insider reached out to us to recommend the Tad Tayicseua Valley extension to the Bolaven Loop. For those looking for another, longer route check out his blog here.

What Not to Miss - Sights and Stops Along the Bolaven Loop

There is so much to see along the Bolaven Loop! We by no means got to see everything but here’s our favourite stops that we visited, along with the road conditions and how easy it was to get there.

We’ve listed the stops in the order you’ll encounter them if you’re following our suggested itinerary (see here).

Pha Suam Waterfall and Maak Ngaew Waterfall

Set a short drive down a broken road, you’ll arrive through the ruined gates of this abandoned park. We love ruins and abandoned things so this was a great first stop on the Loop for us. Once you drive through the crumbling ruins of the resort gates (serious Jurassic park vibes), there are two waterfalls to find. One hidden in the forest (Maak Ngaew) and the other churning out over the rocks of a huge riverbed (Pha Suam). When we visited in the dry season you could scramble right down to the edge of Pha Suam falls.

Don’t miss this stop; it was one of our highlights of the Loop.

A curtain of white water falls over black rocks in the middle of the dark green jungle at the Maak Ngaew Waterfall of Pakse. — *Nestled away in the forest, Maak Ngaew was a picture perfect Laotian waterfall.*

Mr Vieng Coffee Farm - Cafe and Tours

This coffee shop and farm tour is a popular stop for many Loopers. Serving coffee from their own home-grown beans, it’s a good place to caffeine up before the long road to Tad Lo. It’s one of the stops recommended by Miss Noy so can get very busy especially around the morning coffee tours.

We would say stop if you want a coffee, but don not expect too much in terms of luxury - this is not the place for a fancy hazelnut-mocha-frappuccino! There are toilets onsite and accommodation if you want to stay the night. There are also some cute souvenirs made from coffee beans you can buy.

Laongam town and market

Located between Mr Vieng Coffee and Tad Lo Village, Laongam is your typical bustling Laotian market town.

Baskets of chicken meat, dried fish, red onions, long green beans and tomatos sit under bright red umbrellas in the heart of Laongam Market in Laos.

If you’ve been confined to Luang Prabang and the backpacker friendly Vang Vieng, then this is a great introduction to a “real Laotian market”. The covered market is busy and spills out onto the surrounding streets, selling everything from mounds of watermelons to piles of intestines.

If you’re hungry, Laongam is a great place to pick up a bowl of noodles or some BBQ meat.

For a sit down meal however, we’d recommend getting on your bike, driving a short way outside of town to this restaurant (location), where we enjoyed one of the most unique and tasty dishes we ate on the whole Loop. Think Pad Thai meets meatballs, all served with a delicious nutty dressing. It was cheap, filling and delicious!

Glass noodles, strips of pork, pork meatballs, sliced cabbage, green beans, lime and salad leaves sit in a blue and white bowl. The noodles are covered in a scattering of chopped peanuts. — *Laongam is worth a stop just for these noodles alone!*

Wat Pa Forest Temple

If you’ve been backpacking your way around South East Asia you’ve probably seen your fair share of temples, however Wat Pa is actually one of our favourites.

Sunlight streams through the forest canopy onto two saffron coloured monk robes strung between two huts. All around are huge trees.

Nestled in the calm heart of a wood and surrounded on all sides by a wall of ancient towering trees, this temple radiates serenity.

Inside the grounds, the temple is focused around a massive, seated golden Buddha and a sacred tree, wrapped in colorful ribbons. It is a beautiful and calm place, when we visited we were the only foreigners there.

A huge tree is wrapped in colourful cloth. Behind the tree is a giant seated golden Buddha in the grounds of Wat Pa Forest Temple.

Colourful pieces of fabric are tied around a huge, ivy covered tree in the grounds of Wat Pa temple. — *There is something special about the light in a forest, it just adds a layer to the magic of the temple.*

To reach the temple, you’ll have to navigate your way down a pothole-filled road, before reaching a small hamlet and turning onto a dirt road leading into the forest. The track is guarded by two demonic yaksha guardian statues and lined with figures from the zodiac. The road was not difficult to ride, just take it slow and drive around the worst of the potholes!

Entrance Ticket - free

Two red and green yaksha statues guard the entrance and dirt road leading to the forest temple of Wat Pa. — *The Yaksha guard the approach to the forest temple.*

Tad Lo mountain roads and dam

The roads around Tad Lo are stunning and great fun just to drive around. We’d definitely recommend approaching Tad Lo village from the junction in the location above. On this road you’ll be greeted to panoramic views over the Bolaven Plateau before the road winds its way down through cassava plantations and into the village.

A paved tarmac road leads away from the viewer down a gentle incline. Behind a blue, tree covered mountain rises up to the bright blue sky.

To the south of Tad Lo is a gorgeous road that runs along the river until it reaches the hydroelectric dam. At the dam the road forks west and takes you through pretty villages and farmlands. You can find the road here, it is the same road you will use to get to some of the waterfalls.

Speaking of which…

Tat Soung Waterfalls

Tat Soung Waterfall is an absolute must - there’s not many waterfalls of this scale where you can get so close to the edge.

You can see Tat Soung Waterfall from miles away. A huge rock face with a torrent flowing from the top.

There is a small forest walk to a viewpoint giving a great “overview” perspective of the falls, but the best vantage point is from the top of the waterfalls themselves.

John poses for a photo onto of the rocky cliff edge of the Tat Soung Waterfall. Behind him the green fields and hills of the Bolaven Plateau stretch out to the horizon. — *The view from the top of Tat Soung Waterfalls is incredible. In the dry season you can walk all the way along the cliffs edge!*

A steep set of stairs leads you to the wide flat top of the cliff, where the water cascades down over the sheer drop. You can get right up to the edge of the falls, or as close as you dare!

This is definitely one of the best views in Tad Lo and the Bolaven Loop as a whole.

*The very cute car park attendant - he demands payment in head-strokes!*

The entrance to the car park is down a very pretty rural road, just be aware that right at the end of the road just before you reach the car park there is a steep, semi off-road section. As always take it slow and don’t attempt anything you aren’t comfortable with! We were very novice riders and didn’t find it hard.

If you're lucky you’ll be greeted by a very friendly puppy when you arrive!

Entrance fee for Tat Soung Waterfall - 10,000 kip

Tad Lo Waterfalls

Just above the village are the falls that give the town its name - the mighty Tad Lo Waterfall. Spread out across a curving cliff wall, the falls span the whole of the wide river.

White water tumbles down over black rocks into a green and blue river. Above the waterfall, trees grow up from the banks of the river.

A path next to the scooter parking will lead you down to the base of the falls where you can really get to feel the force of the water. You can easily walk to the falls from town or you can drive the short distance there. The turning to drive there is not marked on Google Maps but is around here and clearly signposted from the road.

For those looking for a little bit of extra excitement, Fandee Island (more on this later) has a zip wire and suspension bridge overlooking these falls.

Entrance to Tad lo Waterfall - free

White water crashes down over a steep black cliff into a raging river below at the Tad Lo waterfalls. — *This was Tad Lo falls in the* ***dry*** *season - Imagine the power during the rains!*

Sacred Forest walk

We don’t know if we can call this a hidden gem as there were signs for it everywhere in town, all we can say is that we didn’t see or hear about anyone else doing the Sacred Forest Walk. Do not miss out, it’s a fantastic wander and a great way to stretch your legs after a day on a bike.

The walk starts at Tad Lo Falls and winds its way through the nearby forest, the way marked by orange cloth tied to the trees. There are a couple of signs pointing out unique trees including one truly enormous white giant. The walk winds gently down into a small valley, over a (dry when we visited) riverbed and through the strange, colourful rocks of the “Purple Valley” before coming back up to the road.

A piece of saffron orange robe is wrapped and tied in a knot around a tree on the Sacred Forest Walk of Tad Lo, Laos. — *Just look out for the orange cloth marking the way!*

It’s a lovely short walk through some beautiful nature and finishes on the main road back to the village. If you drove to Tad Lo waterfalls just walk through the grounds of Tad Lo Lodge to get back to your bike.

Entrance to the Sacred Forest - free

Tad Hang Waterfall

Slap bang in the centre of Tad Lo Village are the Tad Hang Waterfalls. A sprawling curtain of steep-stepped falls spreads out and up along a wide section of the river. It’s by far the most popular waterfall in the area as it's a short walk from most of the town’s guesthouses. Don’t miss sunset from here, where locals and backpackers all gather to have a cheeky beer whilst paddling and swimming in one of the falls' many pools.

Entrance to Tad Hang Falls - free

A curtain of white water cascades over stepped rocks at the Tad Hang Waterfalls in Tad Lo.

Fandee Island

(location)

Fandee Island, first things first - not an island!

Sitting on rocky boulders is the wood and thatched restaurant of Fandee Island. Surrounding the restaurant are tall trees.

Sitting on a looping bend in the river over the water from Tad Lo Village is the Fandee Island Resort and activity centre. You can do ziplining here, stay in a tree house, kayak on the lake or even have a pizza. When we visited, the lake was full of local children, face masks on, diving for snails.

You can park up and explore the grounds even if you’re not staying at the resort itself - they are very pretty! There is a short but nice trail leading alongside the river which gives a different perspective to Tad Hang and Tad Lo Waterfalls.

It’s one of the more fancier accommodation options in the village - book your stay on the island here.

Entrance: Free

Parking costs 10,000 kip per bike.

A blue mountain rises up to the blue sky above. In the foreground is a green lake full of lily pads. To the left you can see a wooden swing sitting on the waters edge marking the resort of Fandee Island. — *If you choose stay on Fandee Island you’ll be overlooking this pretty lake!*

Tad Lo Village

Tad Lo Village is one of the main “hubs” of the Bolaven Loop. It is a popular overnight stop and it is here that you will find most of the backpackers, loopers and other bikers travelling the Bolaven Plateau.

Tad Lo Village is split into a couple of parts. The larger shops, mechanics and market can be found lining the main road in the north, whilst the restaurants and guesthouses for the backpackers and loopers are set down alongside the banks of the Tat Lo River and the base of the Tad Hang Falls.

The Tad Hang Waterfall cascades down stepped rocks in the heart of Tad Lo Village.

This cute village is ridiculously picturesque. Full of friendly locals and herds of cows, it's your typical Laotian village with tiny shops stuffed full of colourful snacks, roadside noodle stalls and children playing. Don’t miss the small Buddhist temple with a golden naga and vibrantly coloured statues outside.

The Tat Lo River winds gently through the village and when we visited in the dry season, was a lovely place for a dip.

Small guesthouses line the banks of a gentle flowing river in the small village of Tad Lo.

The heart of the backpacker town is here, Google doesn’t think it’s a road but it is! Here you’ll find some great restaurants and guesthouses. We can especially recommend eating at Samaki Guesthouse, their Tom Ken (a caramelised pork and egg stew) was delicious, especially paired with a mango sticky rice for dessert!

Another very popular choice was Tina’s Kitchen and Homestay selling all the backpacker favourites of pineapple fried rice, noodles, curries and spring rolls.

From Tad Lo Village you can easily walk to the Tad Hang and Tad Lo Waterfalls as well as doing the Sacred Forest Walk. If you didn’t mind a paddle you could cross the river to Fandee Island.

There is also a small petrol station on the road between the main northern town and the backpacker hub. If you (like us) need a tyre reinflated there is a lovely gent here who will help you for a tiny fee.

Tat Lo market

Before you leave Tad Lo don’t miss visiting the bustling local market. It’s at its best early in the morning where it is chock full of produce both alive and dead! All manner of colourful vegetables and fruit are for sale alongside squealing piglets and gaggles of clucking chickens.

colourful bowls of red and green tomatoes sit on the floor of the market. In the right hand picture ruby red chillis sit alongsite rows of jars and sauce bottles at the market.

There’s a couple of restaurants just on the outside of the market and plenty of stalls to pick up BBQ meat, snacks and drinks.

If you’ve come to Tad Lo by bus, this is almost certainly where you’ll be dropped off.

Captain Hook's Village Tour and Homestay

Full disclaimer: We didn’t actually visit or stay here, but it is a very popular stop and is often recommended as an overnight stop on the Loop instead of Tad Lo.

Captain Hook’s is a village homestay where you’ll have a guided tour of a Laotian village with its own unique animist culture and customs. Mr Hook (Captain? We are unsure of his exact Naval rank) is meant to be quite a character and really brings the history and culture of the village to life.

If you’re planning to stay there, it’s basic accommodation with group meals and a very convivial atmosphere.

Captain Hook’s is just 20 KM further on from Tad Lo Village so if you set off early enough you could have seen some of the waterfalls in Tad Lo and still overnight at Captain Hook’s.

You can book a stay at Captain Hooks via Facebook or just turn up on the day.

Thateng town and market

Thateng is a busy local hub with a thriving all day market. There are plenty of places to pick up some cheap local Laotian food as well as snacks and roadside coffee. The market is large, busy and very ‘local’, full of vats of preserved fish, piles of fresh meat and a kaleidoscope of vegetables. There are also plenty of mechanics and bike shops in this town, very useful if you find yourself with a very flat tyre; more on this later!

A Laotian stallholder sits behind her wares in a busy market in Southern Laos. Her stall is full of bags of sugar, dried noodles and bottles of sauces. — *Laotian markets are always very colourful!*

As you approach town there are a couple of pretty places to pull over and admire the view over the fields and mountains.

Thateng town also marks the end of the ‘mountain loop’. We definitely suggest following the route coming up next for the best views and ride on the mountain loop.

Thateng Mountain Loop

This was, without question, one of our favourite parts of the whole Pakse Loop.

A short way outside of Thateng town, you’ll reach a junction to the left. It’s here where you can start the 45 minute to 1 hour mountain loop.

A grey tarmac road twists and turns down a small hill on the Pakse Loop.

A gorgeous stretch of near deserted roads twist, wind and snake their way around the surrounding hills and mountains. The views are incredible and the road is so much fun to drive without being remotely intimidating.

We absolutely loved this stretch, it really felt like a proper motorbike adventure. We passed through small villages where the road was lined with small children. Like a parade route, they’d stand at the side of the road and we’d slow the bikes down and high-five all of them in a conga line as we drove past.

The countryside was a shifting palette of colours. Sparse greens and greys of the cassava fields, breaking to violent yellows and oranges as the autumnal colours of the trees exploded all around.

Yellow and green grasses sit lining the roadside on a mountain road on the Bolaven Plateau. Behind mountains and plains roll away to the horizon.

The whole ‘mountain loop’ only takes about an hour or so to drive and will pop you back out onto the main road in Thateng town.

The route is easy and is clearly marked on the ‘Maps.me’ overlay we recommend you download (see the maps section above).

A huge yellow forest full of bamboo trees line the edge of golden paddy fields.

Coffee and farm shops

As you approach the town of Paksong, you’ll truly start to enter coffee country. On either side of the road are huge coffee plantations and farm shops specialising in all bean based things.

A red Honda Click scooter sits parked outside thepainted white exterior of YG Coffee in Paksong.

We enjoyed a delicious latte from YG Coffee but there were plenty of other cafes dotted along the road to dive into.

If you’re interested in learning about how coffee is grown and harvested, you could easily arrange a tour at any of these farm shops. Most of them will also serve small plates and cakes.

Paksong town

Paksong town is an ideal staging post. An overnight stop here allows for a whole final day exploring the Loops most famous attractions - The Four Sisteres Waterfalls. You can stay the night and then be at the falls before the crowds and day trippers from Pakse come.

The town is spread all along a main road with a few basic guesthouses, hostels and plenty of places to pick up some cheap tasty food.

*Some of the BBQ meat choices on offer in Paksong!*

We stayed at the fantastic Kai Lion’s Hostel Paksong which was set right in the heart of the town and was within walking distance to a brilliant roadside Laotian BBQ stall.

Nearby there is also the popular backpacker restaurant - Mrs Lackky Loop Stop.

We were visiting during Lunar New Year so a lot of the town was closed. Let us know in the comments if you find a hidden gem.

Paksong town is also famous for being the home of…

CC Cafe 1971

Probably the most famous coffee shop in Laos, CC Cafe 1971 is built out of the bombed out ruins of an old Soviet era powerplant. If you’ve read any of our other blogs, this kind of description is like catnip to us. Sadly, Lunar New Year stopped us from being able to visit :( However, we did manage to go to its sister site in Pakse town and can confirm that the coffee is great!

The cafe serves craft coffee as well as pastries, snacks and desserts.

Jhai Coffee

Following our night in Paksong, we were on the hunt once again for caffeine - we were in coffee country after all!

In a cluster sit green and red coffee beans growing on a tree. — *You’ll see coffee beans growing everywhere on the Bolaven Plateau!*

Lining the road between Paksong and the waterfalls are a string of artisan coffee shops. We tested out Jhai Coffee.

Jhai Coffee is set in a beautiful traditional wooden house. We opted for two hot craft cappuccinos that were absolutely excellent.

Unfortunately if you're after oat milk and other non-dairy milk options, you’ll need to keep looking. We spent 20 minutes on the road leap-frogging a jeep carrying a gaggle of girls in search of oat milk! Remeber - Americano’s exist!

If you’re after a Western style breakfast, we’ve heard great things about the Le deux soeurs Paksong.

Tad Yuang Waterfall (also known as Tad Yeuang or Tad Gneuang Falls)

We had heard that the ‘Four Sisters’ Waterfalls were something special, so kicked off our final day on the Loop with high hopes of what was to come. Even with our high expectations, we weren’t ready for Tad Yuang.

The start was underwhelming, a car park and a parade of tourist shops was flanked by a large, touristy restaurant. At the end of the parade, a steep set of stairs led to a small opening in the jungle. At first we didn’t think this could possibly be the way, as large tree trunks and vines blocked the path. We limboed, clambered and yoga posed our way through the trees and down the steps until the falls revealed themselves in front of us.

They… were… massive!

Twin falls fell from high above, smashing down through the rocks and foliage to a large pool at the base. We walked between viewpoints, some set up high and some down by the water's edge where you really could feel the thunderous force of the falls above.

Don’t miss the short walk at the top of the falls (before the steps down) which takes you through to a deceptively serene river and coffee plantation, just before the water drops over the edge of the falls.

Entrance to Tad Yuang waterfalls: 30,000 kip per person

Parking: 20,000 kip per bike

Ellie poses for a photograph wearing a maroon scarf, a black t-shirt and leggings. Behind her two huge curtains of white fall down plant covered rock into a dark pool of water below. — *This photo makes the Tad Yuang waterfalls doesn’t really do justice to the scale, but trust us they were massive!*

We recommend getting here early as the viewpoints and walkways are narrow and the experience would have been very different if we had to share it with a crowd. The falls can get very busy during the day as tours from Pakse and late-rising loopers arrive.

Tad Fane Waterfall

If you’ve ever seen pictures of the Bolaven Loop or guides to Pakse, you’ll almost certainly have seen a photo of Tad Fane. Looking like a crater straight out of Jurassic Park, Tad Fane Waterfall tumbles down into a seemingly bottomless green abyss surrounded by jungle. It’s an amazing sight and one you should definitely visit but, you should know the following before you go:

Two vertical streams of white water cascade down into a deeper jungle crater at the Tad Fane Waterfalls.

Tad Fane Waterfalls is only accessible via the Tad Fane Resort. There are two viewing platforms which give good, if slightly obstructed, views but the whole setup seems designed to encourage you towards taking a ride on the, admittedly incredible looking, zip line course.

Most of the promotional shots and dramatic pictures of Tad Fane Waterfalls are taken from the zip line or from drone shots above it, the shots we took were at our maximum camera zoom (200mm if your interested) and cropped.

The two viewpoints accessible to those not zip-lining are a good distance away from the falls and their views, although great, might not match up to your expectations. It is still an incredible waterfall and well worth a visit, just be aware that the views are from a little way away.

Ellie smiles to the camera whilst wearing a black t-shirt, leggings and trainers whilst sitting on a viewing platform. Behind her the Tad Fane waterfalls tumble down into the jungle. — *The Tad Fane falls are stunning, even if you don’t head out on the zip wire course.*

Viewpoint one is next to the resort’s coffee shop and the second viewpoint with a net overhanging the jungle, can be found to the left. Don’t miss either viewpoint as they do give different perspectives.

Entrance fees: 30,000 kip per person

Parking: 10,000 kip per bike

Zipline experience: Prices start at $40 to ride the zipline course.

A man wearing a bright orange t-shirt is harnessed to a zipline strung across the Tad Fane waterfall in Laos.

There are some other unique experiences on offer on the zip line itself. Have you ever wanted to have high-tea on a zip line? You can do that here for $60. For those truly in need of a psychiatric exam, $200 will allow you to sleep a night on the zip line!

For all the different zip line options, check out their website for more info.

Accommodation at Tad Fane: If you want to beat the crowds and want something more luxurious than the offerings in Paksong, you can stay at the Tad Fane Resort.

Be careful when riding your bike into the car park of Tad Fane, the loose gravel is very deep in places and John can confirm that it's definitely possible to beach your bike!

Tad Champee Waterfall

Simply another stunner of a waterfall! Less dramatic than its sisters, Tad Champee was serene and beautiful. From the carpark, it’s a short walk down through the woods to a near perfect swimming hole. Framing it all, is the wide curtain of water that makes up the Tad Champee Falls.

We visited in the dry season and the falls had split themselves into 3 streams of white water, in the wet season the flow is much greater and the streams join into one massive waterfall. This is definitely the most chilled out of the falls and makes for a great swimming spot and picnic stop.

There is a small shop by the carpark selling snacks and water.

The drive to Tad Champee Waterfall is down country lanes and dirt roads, through plantations and small hamlets. It’s not a difficult drive, just take your time on the bumpiest stretches.

Entrance to Tad Champee Waterfall: 10,000 kip per person

Parking fee: 5,000 kip per bike

The Champee Waterfall splits into 3 white cascades as it tumbles down the vertical cliff into the blue green pool below.

Tad E-Tu Waterfall and Abandoned Resort

This one was a proper adventure, it was also our favourite waterfall of the day! It wasn’t however, easy to get to - we actually had to give up driving to this waterfall!

We had gone a little way off road where we started to lose confidence in our driving skills. The road is awful. Deep rutted crevices, gravel and sliding sand, we didn’t feel comfy continuing on our bikes, but weren’t going to give up.

What we did (and what we would suggest you do) is find a shop on the main road, buy some soft drinks and supplies and ask to park your bike there for a bit. On foot, it is much easier going. You walk off the main road and down the gravelly track until you reach the large gates of the abandoned E-Tu Resort.

Head through the gates (the left hand one was open for us) and walk through the massive abandoned resort. Passing the crumbling remains of restaurants and cabins you will soon see a set of steps on the left near an abandoned tuk-tuk. Follow these past the shells of old buildings until you reach the overgrown fence running along the top of a cliff, you should be able to hear the roar of the falls in the distance below.

Two images side by side. The left hand picture shows a decaying "Welcome" sign and route marker. The right image shows a collapsing interior with a large stylised monkey graffitied on a wall. — *Everywhere in the abandoned resort there are ruins and artsy graffiti.*

Take the path to the left and you’ll quickly find the steep stairs leading down to the waterfall. When we visited there were a few school children (obviously better drivers than us) parked at the top of the steps. The stairway is very steep but in okay condition and leads down through the thick jungle.

At the bottom is a truly special secret spot. A huge waterfall cascades into the hidden jungle pool. To get near the water, you’ll need to clamber over moss covered stones and logs, through reeds and boggy land to get to the pool at the base of the falls. We loved E-Tu Waterfall as much for the adventure and feeling of exploration as for the falls themselves.

A white curtain of water falls into a stony pool. On either side of the waterfall trees and forest line the cliffs at the Tad E-Tu Waterfall on the Bolaven Plateau, Laos.

After you have seen the waterfall and made your way back up the steps, take the opposite path along the cliff edge to reach the top of the falls. Where, if you’re lucky, you’ll find locals fishing and washing in the wide calm river. It’s a really beautiful place.

Entrance fee for E-Tu Waterfall: Free

Seriously, we really wouldn’t recommend driving to this waterfall unless you’re very confident with your biking skills. Also please note there is another private property on the road to this waterfall. Don’t turn off the downwards path or park outside this property, continue down the steep hill until you find the obvious abandoned resort gate in front of you. If you can see CCTV cameras, you are in the wrong place!

Fried Rice Restaurant and a Beautiful Temple

E-Tu Waterfall marks the last of the ‘Four Sisters’ Waterfalls. We had got up early and it was time for a much needed lunch. We drove back along the main road towards Pakse and stumbled upon this little gem of a restaurant. We usually don’t rave about fried rice, but this small roadside joint had raised the dish to an art form.

Topped with a deliciously crispy, yet runny egg and accompanied by a deep and satisfying pork broth, this was one of our favourite fried rice we’ve eaten in Laos. Every mouthful was the perfect combination of smokey, spicy and rich flavour.

Opposite the restaurant is a beautiful Buddhist temple. As we were visiting during the Lunar New Year, the whole temple was abuzz with visitors bringing colourful offerings.

Weekend Cafe Coffee-Tea

Because one coffee a day is never enough, we were looking for some post lunch caffeine before the final drive back to Pakse - Weekend Cafe fitted the bill.

This coffee shop and campsite was the epitome of cute. With friendly baristas and a garden bursting with ripening coffee beans, the coffee was excellent and, if you get there before they sell out, there’s a good selection of pastries too!

Weekend Cafe also offers accommodation in their tents dotted around their pretty garden. If you fancy a night under canvas before you head back to Pakse, you can book a stay here.

A plastic cup of iced latte from Weekend Cafe Coffee-Tea sits in front of a white tent.

The Pakse Loop - Essential Tips & Tricks and Frequently Asked Questions

How difficult is the Bolaven Loop - tips for beginners

If you are new to riding scooters, should you attempt the Bolaven loop?

We would say yes but with a couple of caveats:

You need to practice beforehand - the Loop should not be the 1st time you get on a bike!
Never do or attempt anything you are not happy with - If you don't like the look of a dirt road, wooden bridge or steep incline then there is no shame in walking the bike or turning around. We did this at the E-Tu waterfall and were glad we did! You do not want to have an accident in Laos.
In Laos drive on the right hand side of the Road!
Be careful riding in a group, you want to go single file and leave enough space between everyone in case of sudden stops.
Most of the Loop is on tarmacked roads.However, there can be roadworks and some of the bridges are…. interesting to say the least. When we visited there was a lot of construction work between Pakse and Tad Lo and this meant some riding on loose gravel and crossing some plank bridges.
This is Laos - expect potholes, sudden chickens, dogs and buffalo based obstacles!
The Four Sisters Waterfalls are nearly all down “country” roads and loose surface tracks. If you are not confident then consider parking at a shop on the main road (ask the owner!) and walking to the falls.
The road can be busy when leaving / returning to Pakse. You will have to share the road and navigate around cars and lorries. Take it slow and be sensible!

The Bolaven Loop is shorter and less mountainous than the Thakhek Loop (which we also loved - read all about it here), and makes for a great introduction to multi-day motorbike adventures. It was Ellie’s first extended ride on a scooter and now she can’t get enough!

Places to practice driving in Pakse

If you need to get some practice riding a scooter or you just want to test your bike before you set off, then Pakse holds a great secret place to try out your wheels.

Head past the bus station and you’ll find a small car park (location) very close to the daily night market. The car park is big enough to drive around and the surrounding streets are really quiet. There’s even some traffic lights and a small roundabout to practice your junctions. When we visited it was entirely deserted so no worries about other scooters or cars.

Just note, the road running alongside the riverbank / night market is one way!

Road conditions on the Bolaven Loop

The main roads of the Loop are all well maintained and fully paved. There will be potholes and dust but the main roads (13, 16E and 20 coming out of Pakse and the 16 / 16E coming back) are all major regional roads. This does of course mean you will be sharing the road with other users - be aware of cars and trucks.

Remember that in Laos; “might makes right” on the roads. If it is bigger than you, let it through!

Outside of the major Loop roads, as you head off to Tad Lo, or go waterfall hunting, the tracks become much more…rural…. We highly recommend the Maps.me overlay we mentioned at the start of this guide, as it has the road conditions colour coded. It was a great help in deciding if we would be up for various routes!

A tarmac road marked with a yellow line curves away over gentle rolling hills on the Bolaven Plateau.

A tarmac road stretches away to the horizon. In the distance a blue green mountain can be seen.

As always do not attempt any route you are unhappy with! It was Ellie’s first long drive on a bike and we found the loop and all its off roads exciting and fun, but this does not mean it will be the same for everyone!

We would advise taking it slow when driving to Pha Suam Waterfall, Tat Soung Waterfall and definitely consider walking to the E-Tu Falls, the approaches were a little hairy!

When to ride the Bolaven Loop - Wet and dry seasons in Laos

Laos’ dry season runs between November and April. There will still be showers occasionally but this season has the highest amount of blue sky and sunshine. The wet season (May to September) in Laos lives up to its name. Expect heavy downpours most days.

As novice bikers we would highly recommend riding the Pakse / Bolaven loop in the dry season. The views will be clearer, the roads less slippy and the ‘off road’ sections less muddy and treacherous. We rode the loop in January and were lucky - perfect clear skies and warm but not boiling sunshine.

We cannot say how the loop would be in the wet season, we imagine it would be a good deal more challenging but the waterfalls would be in full force and the greenery would be lush and full of life. If you take on the challenge, let us know in the comments how it was!

Amongst a rocky riverbed water flows towards the viewer. Lining both banks of the river is thick green forest. — *Dry season also gave us some unique landscapes - we could often walk along the riverbeds or right up to the edge of the waterfalls!*

Petrol, garages and what to do if you break down on the Bolaven Loop!

There are petrol stations scattered all along the main Loop, you shouldn’t get stuck and run out of fuel. We would recommend filling up before you leave in Pakse and not letting your tank get below ⅓ full without stopping for fuel. This way you won’t even have to think about worrying. If there are no “proper” petrol stations around, look for the shops and stalls selling fuel in old liquor bottles, they are everywhere.

Every town, hamlet, crossroad and village will have some form of mechanic, tyre shop or bike repair shack. Everyone in Laos rides a scooter so everywhere has the services to keep them running. We popped a tyre on our second day and it was no big thing.

We were leaving Tad Lo and noticed Ellie’s rear wheel was nearly flat. We stopped at the nearest bike shop (look for hanging tyres, compressors or just crowds of half dissected bikes), and paid 2000 kip to refill the tyre as we didn’t know if it just needed a pump up or if it was properly punctured. By the time we rolled into Thateng (or Ban Tateng) the tyre was sagging again so we knew we needed a new one. A phone call to Kai Lions Bike Rental, 15 minutes and 480,000 kip later and we had a new rear tire.

A red Honda Click scooter stands in a roadside garage. It's wheel and exhaust have been dismantled ready for a repair. — *It looks bad but it only took 15 minutes to replace the tyre!*

Automatic bikes, or at least Honda Clicks, don't apparently have inner tubes so you need to replace the whole tire if you get a bad puncture. If you have a semi automatic you can just replace the inner tube most of the time.

This was all pretty painless and easy, mainly because our bikes were rented from Kai Lions. Kai was happy to help us over the phone and speak in Laotian with the mechanics at the garage. Most of the rental companies will have a WhatsApp contact but we were really impressed with Kai’s service!

If you break down and cannot roll or wheel the bike to a mechanic or shop we would advise you to call your rental place and explain. All the rental agencies in Pakse are set up for people doing the Loop and will be able to help. If worst comes to worst Google Translate can help out, Laotians on the whole are helpful and lovely people.

ATMs - Money on the Bolaven Loop

We would advise you to withdraw anything you need before you set off on the Loop. There are few ATMS on the route and those that there are, can run out of money quickly. There is a BCEL bank ATM at Tad Lo and a couple in Paksong and Thateng in a pinch but we would not recommend relying on them.

Very few places will accept card and those that do, will charge an extra fee.

Solo or group riding? Meeting people for the Loop.

If you are a solo traveller and want to ride in a pack then Pakse is a great town to meet people. Most backpackers in the town are preparing for or coming back from the Loop. Head out to the hostel common rooms or the nightly briefing at Miss Noy’s and your sure to find some like minded travellers.

Some of the most popular hostels in Pakse are: Kai Lion’s, Anou Hostel, Sanga Hostel, Pakse Backpacker and Dorms and Pakse Backpacker and Dorms

We rode (surprise surprise) as a couple. It was Ellie’s first big ride and we didn't want to slow up, or feel pressure from anyone else. This worked out great for us; we could stop, leave, eat or just pull over and enjoy the views whenever we wanted. Seeing the Loop with a group of friends would be magic but it was amazing to do it as a couple.

If you are solo and want to ride the Loop by yourself, then this is 100% doable. The Loop is on a main road and most of the waterfalls are popular (with the exception of E-tu) so you will not be totally alone. At the overnight stops you will find plenty of fellow travellers to chill and hang out with, especially if you stay at one of the more social hostels or dorms.

Group, solo or riding as a couple, the loop is fantastic!

Cant ride a scooter? Other ways to see the Bolaven Loop - Organised tours of Pakse, Tad Lo and the Four Sisters Waterfalls

If you are not confident on two wheels it doesn't mean that you have to miss out! There are other ways of visiting the highlights of the Bolaven Loop.

Tad Lo village is beautiful and most of the nearby sights are an easy walk from the accommodation hub. There are daily buses from Pakse to Tad Lo village departing from the Green Paradise Tour office, you can book these buses in advance here. There are also local buses but these are harder to book in advance - Check with your accommodation.

From a base in Pakse it is easy to arrange a tour of the Four Sisters Waterfalls - any hostel or travel agency in the town will be able to book one for you, just ask around until you find one with a price and itinerary you like!

If you are short on time or just want to cram as much as possible into your Pakse trip then consider the “Mystic Falls and Timeless Temples” tour with Get Your Guide. The tour picks you up from Pakse, takes you to two of the most famous falls and brings you to the amazing ruins at Champassak all in one day. You can have a look or book it online here.

The Bolaven Loop or The Thakhek Loop - which Should I ride?

The two Laotian motorbike loops are very different experiences. The Bolaven Loop is a waterfall hunter's dream, whereas Thakhek offers the most dramatic roads, views and riding experience.

Which one you want to drive really depends on what you are looking for and how much time you have to travel in Laos.

Obviously we would recommend riding both as they are both incredible experiences, but here are some things to bear in mind if you have to make a decision between Thakhek and Pakse:

The Bolaven Loop is shorter (the main route at least) and easier to ride. The roads of the Pakse Loop are easy to navigate and suitable for less experienced riders. Thakhek Loop is by no means difficult but we were glad we did the Bolaven Loop first!
The Thakhek Loop offers much more impressive views from the road and a more interesting “riding experience”. The roads of the Bolaven Loop pretty much take you from A to B, the Loop being more about the sights than the journey. On the Thakhek Loop half the joy is the ride itself.
The Bolaven Loop allows riders to see some of Laos' most famous waterfalls whereas the Thakhek Loop is stuffed full of mountains, sweeping views and incredible cave systems.
The Bolaven Loop can be ridden in 1 or 2 days but we would say the Thakhek Loop needs at least 2 nights, 3 days on the road to get the most out of it.

At the end of the day, both loops are utterly incredible. If you still don’t know which Loop to ride, make sure you have read our complete guide to the Thakhek Loop.

If you can, ride both they are worth it!

Jellie pose for a GoPro selfie both wearing black t-shirts. Behind them the Tad Hang Waterfall crashes down and flows towards the village of Tad Lo. — *We loved the Bolaven Loop and didn’t stop smiling the whole way round!*

Final Thoughts - is the Bolaven Loop worth it?

The Pakse Loop takes you out from the busy city, through small towns and villages and into the vast expanse of the Bolaven Plateau. The road passes some of the most impressive waterfalls we have ever seen and really makes you feel like you’ve stepped away from the parties, tours and the well trodden ‘Banana Pancake’ trail.

Is the Bolaven Loop worth it? Absolutely!

We started the Loop unsure of what to expect and very nervous about riding our first multi-day bike loop. By the time we were rolling back into Pakse, we didn’t want our ride to end. If we could, we would have turned around and started all over again.

The only downside we can state for the Pakse Loop is that it has given us a dangerously addictive new travel hobby! We will be biking a lot more in the future.

To quote the late, great Anthony Bourdain:

“The motorbike, the only way to see this part of the world—the thick, unmoving air, the smell, past rice paddies, water buffalos, what feels like another century.”

There really is something special about exploring a place on two wheels.

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

Jellie sit arm in arm facing away from the camera sitting on the edge of Tat Soung Waterfall whilst overlooking the rolling hills and plains of the Bolaven Plateau.

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What To Do In Savannakhet - A Complete Guide

The city of Savannakhet is a hidden gem in Southern Laos. Full of colourful street art, craft coffee shops and a bustling night market, there is plenty to see and do in the city. Read on to find out why you should add Savannakhet as a stop to your Laos itinerary!

Spiralling away from the banks of the Mekong River, the historic city of Savannakhet is a true, hidden gem of Southern Laos. This bustling city is stuffed full of beautiful temples, colourful street art and stylish coffee shops, all centered around a lively night market. The city’s architecture is a curious combination of French colonial facades mixed with art-deco, brutalist and Laotian style buildings.

Most travellers in Laos skip Savannakhet altogether as they head north or south to complete the popular motorcycle loops at Thakhek and Pakse. But, if you’re willing to give it a chance, Savannakhet will reward you.

With daily buses connecting Vientiane to Savannakhet and a border crossing point between Thailand and Laos, Savannakhet is in the perfect location to start a central or southern adventure through Laos.

We didn’t know what to expect from Savannakhet, but it quickly became one of our favourite cities in the whole of Laos. We loved its laid back charm, great food and funky repurposed buildings. It was a city full of great coffee, friendly locals and a huge night market we could really delve into.

Read on to find out why you should add Savannakhet as a stop to your Laotian itinerary.

A pink scooter sits parked on a main road surrounded by old French colonial style shopfronts and the abandoned Khousavan Cinema.

In this Savannakhet travel guide:

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

Savannakhet - Where Is It and How Do I Get There?

Where is Savannakhet?

Savannakhet is located in Southern Laos and can be found on a map here. Savannakhet city is also the capital of Savannakhet Province.

The city sits 460 KM (an 8 hour drive) south of the Laotian capital of Vientiane and is 400 KM (a 7 hour drive) north of the 4000 Islands and the Nong Nok Khiene Border with Cambodia.

Savannakhet sits on the banks of the Mekong River, overlooking the city of Mukdahan in Thailand. The Second Thai / Laos Friendship Bridge lies around 10 KM north of the city, marking the border crossing between Laos and Thailand. This border is open to foreign internationals looking to exit / enter Laos.

The city is Laos’ second largest city, but as with all of the Laotian cities we’ve visited, it still retains a small, laid back vibe.

A row of French colonial style houses line the street in Savannakhet's Old Quarter.

How to get to Savannakhet?

Savannakhet is very well connected with daily buses connecting to the capital of Vientiane, other cities within Laos as well as internationally to Thailand and Vietnam.

Catching a bus to Savannakhet

The easiest and cheapest way to reach Savannakhet is by bus. There are Savannakhet bound buses departing Vientiane, Pakse and Thakhek daily.

Whichever city you’re coming from, your bus will arrive at Savannakhet’s Provincial Bus Station which can be found on a map here. Once you arrive, there will be plenty of tuk tuk’s and songthaews waiting to take you into the city. We arranged a taxi ride through our accommodation (more on where we stayed later in the article) which cost us 50,000 kip for the both of us plus our luggage.

For those wanting to visit Savannakhet from Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng, the easiest way to reach the city is to catch a bus or the high-speed Laos / China railway to Vientiane and then transfer onto a southbound bus to Savannakhet.

For those travelling from Champasak, Don Det or any of the 4000 Islands, the easiest way to reach Savannakhet is by taking a bus to Pakse and changing there.

If you’re coming from Thailand and crossing the Thai / Laos Friendship Bridge, buses depart every hour from Mukdahan and will arrive at the same bus station as above.

We travelled to Savannakhet from Thakhek and took a public minibus. Our tickets cost us 150,000 kip per person.

Book your Savannakhet bus tickets in advance by clicking on the links below.

Currently there is no way to book online Thakhek to Savannakhet bus tickets - let us know in the comments if this changes in the future.

A black and white painting of a Laotian lady laden with bamboo baskets is painted on a street wall. — *Always keep an eye out - the street art in Savannakhet is everywhere!*

Flying to Savannakhet

If you’re on a really tight schedule, you can reach Savannakhet by plane. Savannakhet’s airport is located in the southeast of the city and can be found here.

Currently there is only one flight route serving Savannakhet airport - Vientiane to Savannakhet. Flights depart Vientiane daily, with around 1 to 3 flights a day flying to Savannakhet and with tickets costing between 50 to 100 USD each.

Book your Vientiane to Savannakhet flight tickets here

What Is There To See And Do In Savannakhet?

Even though Savannakhet is Laos’ second largest city, the best way to explore the town is by foot. The main tourist attractions are all located very close to each other in the old part of the city so it’s very easy to get around. Our best advice would be to put on your comfiest shoes and get lost amongst the city’s historic streets.

Read on to find out what there is to see and do in the town.

Savannakhet’s Night Market

Located behind the concrete shell of the 1960’s Lao Chaleun Rama Theatre (more on this later) and stretching along the riverside promenade, Savannakhet’s Night Market is an absolute must on any trip!

Open everyday from sundown until 10pm, the night market is where you’ll find hordes of hungry locals munching down on everything from BBQ meat, spicy noodles to sweet, sugar glazed pancakes.

The Savannakhet Night Market bustles with stalls in the middle of the repurposed Lao Chaleun Rama theatre.

Stalls draped in neon lights line either side of a huge square full of tables and chairs, as well as spilling out along the riverside pavements.

It’s your typical South East Asian night market with everything on sale from small snacks to larger plates, children’s toys to mobile phone accessories, colourful t-shirts to sweet desserts.

We’ll go into more detail on our favourite food stalls in the ‘where to eat’ section of this guide, but if you want to get your fill of Laotian street food favourites in an awesome market setting, all under the incredible ruins of an old cinema - Savannakhet Market is the place to be!

Savannakhet’s Historic Buildings

(location - everywhere!)

The old town of Savannakhet - particularly the area around the Lao Chaleun Rama and the night market, is full of old colonial buildings. Some have been lovingly restored and converted into modern restaurants and boutique hotels whilst others remain in a state of decay, crumbling against the elements.

Throughout the town, the French colonial buildings all follow a similar style, a rectangle shop front with triangular roof, featuring stone balconies on the upper floor, arched windows and doorways and big wooden shutters.

Sitting under blue sky is a street full of historic French style shophouses featuring arched doorways and shuttered windows.

Savannakhet is a city where you have to always look up. The historic buildings can be found everywhere, and even in their state of deterioration, they give a small glimpse into what the city would have been like in the past.

Our favourite historic buildings were definitely:

Lao Chaleun Rama 1960s

You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the ruins and empty shell of this art deco / brutalist cinema rising above you. Built in the 1960s during the French colonial period, the Lao Chaleun Rama was an old theatre which played movies and films up until the 1990s where eventually it was abandoned and left to ruin. Today the building has been given a new lease of life, with its crumbling rooms being turned into small shops, art galleries and a coffee shop.

Whilst we were there the old theatre part of Lao Chaleun was undergoing extensive restoration, and a new cinema will be opening very soon - let us know in the comments when it reopens!

Savannakhet’s daily night market is held just behind the Lao Chaleun Theatre.

Rising up in front of the viewer is the frontage of the art deco style Lao Chaleun Rama Theatre. Visible from the front are tables and the stylish Huk Film coffee shop. A Laotian and Communist flag wave in the breeze.

Abandoned Khounsavan Cinema

A short walk up the road from the Laos Chaleun Rama theatre complex, are the brutalist ruins of the Khounsavan Cinema.

Once a bustling theatre, the cinema is now a shell of its former self. As you peer through the locked metal gates, you can see the old ticket booth whilst all around the walls are decorated with vintage film posters.

After you’ve peered through the gates, make sure you cross over the road to see the cinema in all its brutalist glory. There is also some street art painted on the wall to the right of the locked gates featuring images of traditional Laos shadow puppetry.

It’s a real shame to see this cinema all locked up, but we are hopeful that in the future it’ll be open once more.

Peeling cinema posters sit on a wooden noticeboard. Beneath the posters sit a pile of sacks and a Chinese Buddhist shrine inside the entrance hall to the abandoned Khounsavan Cinema.

A wooden ticket booth is boarded up inside the entrance hall to the old, abandoned Khounsavan Cinema.

Spotting Savannakhet’s Colourful Street Art

As you wander around the city, it won’t be long until you start spying street art decorating the walls of the old town.

The murals showcase local street scenes and children playing alongside more modern, stylised images and comic-book esq graffiti. We loved how some of the murals have been painted to incorporate the old wooden shutters and window frames of the buildings.

A boy playing with a slingshot is painted on a stone wall.

Painted on a wall is a topless man side-kicking in front of a red circle. A army jacket is seen hanging from the wall.

There was even a scene from a restaurant painted on a huge wall, showing men sitting at tables that really reminded us of the street art in Songkhla, Southern Thailand (read more about Songkhla here).

Our favourite mural was the image of two diplodocus dinosaurs painted in bright blue and green on the edge of an abandoned warehouse.

Savannakhet’s street art can be found all over the city, but especially down Khantabouli Street.

The Giant Naga Statue

(location)
The coils of this enormous white and gold serpent twist and turn along the river bank, with the head of this Giant Naga staring out over the mighty Mekong River, across to Thailand and the town of Mukdahan.

The statue is huge! Stretching all along the riverfront walkway, across the riverside park and along the road. As you walk through the park and along the river, the jewelled scales of the statue arch over and above you.

A giant white naga statue coils over the pathway and stares out into the Mekong. Locals kneel and give offerings in front of the statue.

The Giant Naga Statue is a popular spot for locals to pray and give offerings and there are plenty of street stalls selling flower garlands, incense and other offerings.

To the right of the Giant Naga Statue sit a row of smaller naga statues, all painted in different colours, all sitting coiled on small plinths.

This brings us nicely on to…

The Temples and Churches of Savannakhet

Wat Sainyaphum

(location)
Sitting just over the road from the Giant Naga Statue and riverside promenade is one of southern Laos’ most important Buddhist temples - Wat Sainyaphum.

Green naga statues line the marble staircase of a white, red and gold temple.

This beautiful temple was built around 500 years ago and houses several different temple buildings as well as a monastery.

The main pagoda sits in the heart of the temple grounds and is a large, triangular roofed temple painted in shimmering gold. On either side of the entrance, green naga statues line the steps.

It’s a tranquil temple, full of saffron coloured monks chanting and golden Buddha statues covered in offerings.

Wat Xaiyamoungkhoun

(location)
Sitting behind ornate temple gates and stone walls, is a treasure trove of beautiful Buddhist temple buildings. The main pagoda is painted white and gold, with intricately carved and painted gable ends.

Inside the temple make sure you look up at the colourfully painted roof and walls which all tell illustrated stories of the Buddha.

We were lucky to stumble upon this temple after visiting Savannakhet’s Museum. We’d recommend heading here after visiting the museum, but only after you’ve stopped for a coffee at Le Corbeau Bar - again more on this later!

Rattanarangsi Temple

(location)
Another of Savannakhet’s ornate Buddhist temples, Wat Rattanarangsi houses a large reclining Buddha statue, colourful stupas and stone chedis all sitting in a palm filled temple garden.

Our favourite building in this temple was the naga lined, white and gold tower that rose up above the temple roofs.

Colourful naga statues sit with on top of their coiled tales each sitting on white plinths on Savannakhet's riverside promenade. — *Don’t miss the row of colourful naga statues sitting behind the Giant Naga Statue!*

Chua Bao Quang Temple

(location)
Sitting just behind Wat Rattanarangsi, Chua Bao Quang is a Vietnamese style Buddhist temple. Painted yellow, with Chinese style latticed windows and golden dragon statues lining the roof, Chua Bao Quang temple is beautiful.

We were visiting Savannakhet at the end of Lunar New Year and whenever we passed the temple, it was always busy with locals lighting incense or placing offerings.

St. Teresa's Catholic Church

This European style, creamy white church sits on the edge of a small concrete square.

The white and brown exterior of St Teresa's Church in Savannakhet features three arched doorways sit beneath an octaganol tower crowned with a cross.

At the front, 3 arched doorways sit in a row, whilst on top, a white octagonal tower crowns the building.

Inside, the church is sparsely decorated with rows of wooden pews sitting underneath stained glass windows and huge columns facing the altar.

The church isn’t an essential visit in itself, but it sits at the top of a pretty rectanglular square surrounded by colonial style buildings.

During the day / early evening BBQ sellers and noodle stalls set up shop around the square.

If you’re planning to visit any of the temples listed above, please be respectful and remember to cover your shoulders and knees.

Visit the Museums

Savannakhet Museum

(location)
You won’t need very long to explore this small museum but it’s worth a visit to learn a little about the history of the province. Full of ancient pots, weaponry and Buddhist artefacts, the museum showcases some of the archaeological discoveries found in and around Savannakhet. There is information written on the displays in English.

Just note the museum is closed on weekends.

Tickets cost just 10,000 kip per person to enter.

Savannakhet Dinosaur Museum

(location)
Another compact museum, Savannakhet’s Dinosaur Museum showcases fossils and dinosaur bones dug up in the province.

Two green and blue diplodocuses are painted on the side of a warehouse in the centre of Savannakhet.

It’s a charming museum with a very enthusiastic manager who is eager to show foreigners the different items on display. Hanging from the walls and stored in old wooden cabinets are lots of dinosaur bones all in sizes, varying from rib cages to tail bones, femurs to spinal columns.

Information about the archaeological finds is written in both English and French.

Again like Savannakhet Museum, the museum is closed on weekends.

Tickets cost just 10,000 kip per person to enter.

Where to Eat and Drink in Savannakhet?

Whatever you’re after in Savannakhet, the town can certainly provide. From Laotian BBQs to Italian pizza, there’s a street food stall or restaurant for every palette and craving!

Local Laotian Cuisine

Laotian Street Food at Savannakhet Night Market

As soon as the sun has set over the Mekong, Savannakhet’s Night Market errupts into life - charcoal barbecues fire up, woks start spluttering and the sound of deep-fried goodies hitting the oil fills the air. It’s an explosion of smell and sound and is easily the best place to find some great local street food.

Hungry diners order food from small brown and white tented stalls at Savannakhet's Night Market.

The night market sells all your Laotian favourites from grilled BBQ chicken and Laotian sausages to egg-covered sticky rice and spicy laab salads. Alongside ice-cream, sushi and even a ‘pimp your own instant ramen’ stall which we were very tempted by!

Our favourite dish though was a stall selling barbecued aubergine. It doesn’t sound like much, but trust us when we say we never knew an aubergine could taste so good!

Two aubergines covered in red chilli, soy sauce and sliced spring onions sit on tin foil on top of a hot grill plate at a market stall in Savannakhet's Night Market. In the background a Laotian girl is seen chopping an aubergine into pieces. — *Who knew grilled aubergine could be so good!*

Sitting on piping hot grills, huge aubergines were cut in half and were grilled on the hot charcoal until their skins were charred black. On top of this, a delightful mix of spicy, chopped chilli, garlic and spring onion lay on a bed of soy sauce. Once the sauce was bubbling, the lady quickly scooped up the aubergine and handed over what was possibly one of the tastiest vegetables we’ve ever consumed.

It was salty and spicy, chewy and charred. Every mouthful was a burst of flavour that kept us wanting more and more - it was completely unlike anything we've ever eaten before. If there was ever a way to get more people eating vegetables, this is it!

If you’re in the market make sure you find this stall - honestly you won’t be disappointed.

We also enjoyed some tasty deep fried gyoza and two bowls of hearty red pork and wonton soup. Everything we ate at the night market was delicious and cheap.

Khao Piak Khao at Savan Rice Porridge Shop

This very popular (especially at breakfast times) rice porridge shop serves one thing and one thing only, khao piak khao - otherwise known as Laos rice porridge!

We ordered from the friendly stall owner at the front of the shop and very quickly, two huge, steaming orange bowls were presented to us. We spared no time in waiting for it to cool down and dove straight in.

A brown bowl is filled with khao piak khao (rice soup), topped with slices of pork liver, heart and a sprinkling of corriander.

The rice porridge was delicious. We’ve eaten a lot of khao piak khao throughout Laos and this was one of our favourites. It was meaty, rich and super comforting. Unlike the other bowls we’ve consumed, where the stall holders have been more cautious, giving us the ‘safer, more farang friendly’ cuts of meat, our bowls at Savan Rice Porridge came topped with slices of pork liver and heart. These less common cuts gave the whole bowl a deep, savoury undertone.

As with all porridge shops there was a cruet of condiments to adjust your bowl to your liking - our recommendation is to always add a big dollop of chilli oil followed by a squeeze of lime to lift the whole bowl up a zingy, spicy notch.

Each bowl cost us 25,000 kip - super cheap for a hearty breakfast that will set you up for a day of exploring.

Roast Pork Rice at Noi KhaoKhaMou

Serving one of our favourite meals - meat on rice. Noi KhaoKhaMou serves up every kind of meat on rice you can imagine. From stewed pork leg to braised duck, fried chicken to offal, whatever kind of meat you wanted on top of rice, you could order it at this busy eatery. Despite the many offerings on the menu, we stuck to our favourite and ordered two plates of crispy roast pork on rice.

Quickly after we ordered, out came two huge plates piled high with mounds of rice, thick slices of crispy pork, chunky rounds of sweet Chinese sausage, cucumber and half a boiled egg. Alongside this meaty feast, came two steaming bowls of rich pork bone soup - the perfect counterpoint to the juicy meat.

The star of the show was definitely the crispy pork. Sweet, melt in your mouth meat, sitting underneath delicious layers of succulent fat and crispy pork, it was everything we hoped it would be!

After you’ve ordered your plate, make sure to pick your sauce accompaniments from the counter at the back to pimp your rice and cut through the sweet meat. We opted for a sweet chilli sauce and sliced red chillies in vinegar.

Western Comforts

Long Pizza

Set in an old colonial-style warehouse building, Long Pizza served up what may be some of the best pizza we’ve eaten on our travels so far.

Long Pizza serves all the usual pizza choices, all made with imported Italian ingredients and cooked in a proper woodfired oven.

We decided we would share and ordered one of their large, spicy pepperoni pizzas alongside one of their parma ham salads - both were everything we hoped they would be!

A crusty, mozarella and pepperoni pizza sits on a white plate next to a black bowl filled with green lettuce, tomatos, parma ham and shavings of parmesan cheese. — *Sometimes you just need to satisfy the pizza cravings!*

The pizza was perfectly cooked. A thin, crusty pizza base was topped with a layer of sweet tomato sauce and meltingly rich mozzarella. On top of this, were long thin slices of delicately spiced pepperoni, which gave a little zing against the melted cheese.

The parma ham salad was the perfect accompaniment. Shards of parma ham sat amongst salad leaves, tomatoes and topped with shards of parmesan and a drizzle of thick balsamic vinegar.

If you’ve got room after, we can highly recommend their chocolate brownie for dessert. It was a perfect square of chocolatey, gooey goodness, served with two scoops of coconut ice-cream - divine!

Long Pizza is obviously a lot more expensive than the street food offerings in the night market, but if you find a good pizzeria on your travels, it’s sacrilege not to indulge a little - good mozzarella, pepperoni and parma ham are hard finds in South East Asia!

In terms of the ‘Pizza Olympics’ of Laos, Long Pizza is second, with Popolo Pizza in Luang Prabang (read more about this amazing pizza joint here) just beating them to the gold. Laos really punches above its weight when it comes to pizza - both Long Pizza and Popolo are amongst the best we have had anywhere in the world.

Coffee in Savannakhet

Coffee is big business in Savannakhet and wherever you are in the city, you’ll never be far from a ‘Cup of Joe’. With everything from roadside stalls to modern air-conditioned coffee shops, there’s plenty of places to caffeine up ready for a day of exploring. Below are some of our favourite spots to grab a brew in the town.

Hukfilm × Le Grand père Coffee

(location)
If you only have time for one coffee during your Savannakhet stay, then make sure it’s a coffee from at Hukfilm × Le Grand père Coffee. Set in a small room at the front of the repurposed Lao Chaleun Rama cinema, the coffee from Hukfilm is an experience in itself!

The Brutalist / Art decor stone exterior of the Huk Film Coffee Shop featuring a blue wooden shuttered door, green plants and a wooden bench.

The coffee served here isn’t just a quick brew, it’s like watching an artist create a masterpiece. As soon as we had ordered our hot lattes, the friendly barista quickly got to work intricately measuring, grinding and filtering our coffee beans of choice.

Our coffees were simply next level - possibly the best we’ve drunk in the whole of Laos so far. Strong, rich and perfectly balanced. We spent a good while sipping on our coffees and enjoying the ambiance of the coffeeshop.

The interior of the coffee shop is worth a visit by itself: Exposed brick, sitting alongside turquoise painted walls with blue wooden shutters all standing in perfect contrast to the original tiled floor below. Shelves of vintage cameras and old film rolls lined the walls, whilst red and yellow Kodak signs gave a pop of colour - it’s a super stylish coffee shop! If we could design our house to look like this, we would! It was the vintage interior style that we absolutely love.

Light streams through the open blue wooden shutter door casting sunlight over an orange and brown tiled floor.

The coffee shop serves all your usual coffee favourites as well as the intriguing ‘barista’s choice’. A similar idea to a craft cocktail bar, you just put your faith in the barista behind the counter and let them serve you whatever they think you’d love!

As we said above, if you are a coffee fanatic and only have a day in Savannakhet make sure you head here for a brew!

Sooksavan Coffee and Bistro

As soon as you enter the narrow coffee shop of Sooksavan Coffee and Bistro you instantly feel as though you’ve been transported to a different time. Blue leather chairs sit on top of an exposed brick floor, whilst all around the walls are decorated with newspaper cuttings and old black and white photos.

We ordered two iced lattes which were just perfect. The coffee shop also sells fresh juice, teas and sodas alongside a small menu of fried noodles and rice.

Outside, there is a very picturesque, turquoise door which was a popular Insta spot for the Laotian youth to pose against.

Kin Café’s 1988

(location)
Set behind what looks like the walls of an old warehouse, Kin Cafe’s 1988 serves up excellent coffee.

Offering all your favourites, there is seating inside the modern air-conditioned shop as well as outside in the covered courtyard.

John’s favourite part of our visit to this coffee shop was definitely admiring the two vintage SR Yamaha motorbikes parked in the courtyard.

The exterior wall of Kin Cafe's 1988 featuring wooden shutters and a carved archway. A Laotian flag waves in the breeze.

Black Coffee

Set on a busy crossroads in the heart of the old town, Black Coffee is popular all day with locals and travellers.

A plastic cup of iced lemon tea sits on a black table on a crossroads in the heart of Savannakhet.

Serving all the usual coffee selection as well as iced teas, smoothies, frappes and Italian sodas, Black Coffee is great for a quick, ice-cold pick me up.

We ordered two iced lemon teas and they were citrussy, refreshing and really hit the spot after a very hot afternoon wandering the town.

The coffeeshop also serves a selection of sweet treats including some pretty cheesecakes which we were very tempted by!

Beer and Cocktails - The Best Bars in Savannakhet

Le Corbeau Bar

Le Corbeau Bar is set in a beautiful, old colonial style mansion house complete with columns, arched doorways and wooden shuttered windows.

Inside, the old-school vintage vibe continues, with a huge, long bar taking pride of place in a high-ceiled room. The art-deco theme continues throughout the bar with black leather seats, soft-glowing lamps and white plastered walls. It’s worth a visit even if it’s just to admire the original tiled floor!

During the day, the bar serves up delicious craft coffee whilst in the evening the bar offers bespoke cocktails - we can highly recommend their ‘Oracle Mule’, a take on a ‘Moscow Mule’ made with spiced rum, ginger ale and citrusy lime.

Le Corbeau is an experience all in itself and is a great excuse to treat yourself to a cocktail either before or after a pizza at Long Pizza (see above).

Bang Bar

Set within the Lao Chaleun Rama Cinema building just next to the Savannakhet’s Night Market, the Bang Bar is a great spot to have an ice-cold Beer Laos with some munch from the market.

We enjoyed a couple of beers alongside some dumpling starters to prepare for our evening of market munching!

Black tables and chairs sit underneath yellow string lighting outside the Bang Bar in Savannakhet.

Where to Stay in Savannakhet?

Savannakhet has plenty of accommodation from small, family run guest houses to boutique hotels - whatever your budget there’ll be a bed for you.

Budget Friendly Accommodation - Xaythone Guesthouse

We opted to stay in the cheap and cheerful Xaythone Guesthouse. Run by a charming old lady and her family, the guest house had everything we wanted for our stay in the city. A big room, comfy bed, hot showers and all in a great location - it was everything we needed.

The guesthouse also offers a laundry service as well as a taxi to pick you up / drop you off at the bus station (50,000 kip per journey) or even to take you to the Thai / Laos Friendship Bridge (150,000 kip for the taxi).

To book your stay at Xaythone Guesthouse click here.

Boutique Hotels and All Other Savannakhet Accommodation

If you’re after a more fancy stay than just a guesthouse, then there are plenty of boutique hotels to book.

Use the map below to check out all the accommodation on offer in Savannakhet - just enter your travel dates and take a look!

Where To Go After Savannakhet?

Staying in Laos - Heading North or South From Savannakhet

From Savannakhet’s bus station, you can easily head either north or delve deeper south to explore more of Laos.

If you plan to head north, you can easily catch a bus to take you to the town of Thakhek (read more about the town here) This small riverside town is the gateway to central Laos and is home to the impressive Konglor Caves and the incredible Thakhek Loop - possibly one of the greatest adventures we’ve ever had!

If you don’t mind a longer journey, you could catch an overnight bus (or you could fly) that would take you all the way to Vientiane. From here you could spend a couple of days exploring the city before catching the high speed railway onto the adventure capital of Vang Vieng or the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang.

If you’re heading south towards Cambodia, you could catch a bus to Pakse - start of the Bolaven Loop- another incredible motorbike journey. From Pakse you can see its amazing waterfalls, before catching another bus to head even further south to the ruins at Champasak or the 4000 Islands at Don Det or Don Khone and even the border with Cambodia.

If you’re planning to buy a bus ticket on the day, make sure you get to the bus station early. Despite having scheduled “bus departure times” - a lot of the time the bus will leave as soon as it is full.

This also applies to getting a seat. Laotian buses are well-known for being overstuffed. A 12 seater minivan will easily have double if not triple that amount of passengers with extra ‘beer crate’ seats added to the aisles.

If you have luggage, want a ticket and more importantly a seat, make sure you get to the bus station as early as possible!

We left Savannakhet and caught the 8AM bus to Pakse. We arrived at the bus station at 7AM and the bus was already half-full. Make sure you plan accordingly!

In the golden glow of sunset, people make there way around the white street food stalls of a Laotian night market.

Catching a Bus Internationally

Savannakhet to Vietnam

From Savannakhet Bus Station you can catch a bus all the way to Hanoi, Hue and Danang in Vietnam.

These bus routes do not run everyday, so if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam from Savannakhet, we’d recommend heading to Savannakhet’s Bus Station for up-to-date departure days and times. It is also very difficult to book these tickets online in advance, so to book your seat, head to the bus station.

Savannakhet to Cambodia

There are no direct buses from Savannakhet to Cambodia. To do this route, you’ll need to catch a local minibus to Pakse and transfer to a bus there.

Buses from Pakse can take you to the Nong Nok Khiene Border between Laos and Cambodia, then on to the towns of Stung Treng, Kratie, Banlung or even to Siem Reap.

Book your Pakse to Siem Reap bus tickets here

Savannakhet to Thailand

Buses run every hour from the bus station to the Thai border at Mukdahan. From the city of Mukdahan you can catch a bus all the way to Bangkok (book your bus tickets here) or head into Isan.

We’ll cover all you need to know about crossing the Laos / Thailand border below.

To book bus tickets or any onward travel from Savannakhet, we’d recommend using the 12Go widget below:

Crossing the Border Between Thailand and Laos - The Thai / Laos Friendship Bridge - All You Need To Know

Savannakhet sits on the edge of the Mekong overlooking the Thai city of Mukdahan and is a great place to cross the border into Thailand.

From Savannakhet Bus Station to Mukdahan Bus Station it’s only a 30 minute drive - not counting the time to process everything at Border Control.

Here’s all you need to know about crossing the border:

Leaving Laos and Entering Thailand

Laos border crossing point (location).

If you’ve come to the end of your Laos visa you can catch a bus or arrange a taxi to take you to the Laos Immigration Office on the Laos side of the Mekong. Once stamped out of Laos, you can cross the ‘Friendship Bridge’ and head to the Thai Immigration control to get stamped into Thailand.

To do this by bus: Buses leave Savannakhet Bus Station for Mukdahan every hour from around 7AM to 8PM and a ticket will cost 40,000 kip. The bus will take you across the bridge to Mukdahan bus station.

For those staying in Xaythone Guesthouse the owner offers a taxi service to the border for 150,000 kip.

A turquoise stained wooden door sits in the middle of an exposed brick and yellow painted wall.

Leaving Thailand and Entering Laos

If you’re entering Laos from Mukdahan, you will need to catch a bus or taxi to the Thailand border crossing point (location). From here you will get stamped out of Thailand before crossing the Friendship Bridge to reach the Laos Immigration Control.

At the Laos border you can obtain a visa on arrival costing $40 USD (you can also pay in Thai baht) or, if you’ve arranged an e-visa in advance, you can use this here.

Buses depart Mukdahan bus station (location) to Savannakhet town bus station every hour from 7AM to 8PM. A bus ticket will cost you 100 baht.

Colourful street art painted on a wall in Savannakhet features images of a circular Laotian flag and a blue fish with a small girl's face.

Visiting Savannakhet - How Long To Spend and Is It Worth The Trip?

As with any trip there’s always the difficult question of whether to stop somewhere or not. Here’s our honest opinion on whether you should add Savannakhet as a stop to your Laos itinerary.

Savannakhet - How Long Should I Stay?

Depending on how long you have in Laos, you can easily spend 2 nights in the city. We had 2 nights in Savannakhet and could easily have spent another day. There isn’t a great deal to do in the city, but that’s where part of its charm lies. There was enough food and plenty of coffee shops to keep us entertained and we would have loved to spend another day relaxing, eating and drinking our way around the city.

If you’re looking for somewhere to recuperate after driving the Thakhek or Bolaven Loops, then Savannakhet wouldn’t be a bad place to spend your time. The accommodation is very reasonable and there’s plenty of places to eat and drink - both Laotian fare and Western comforts.

If you’re really short on time, you could easily spend a night in the city to break up the journey between Pakse and Thakhek. To do this you would need to catch the earliest bus in the morning from either Pakse or Thakhek so that you could arrive in Savannakhet by lunchtime. This would give you the rest of the afternoon to explore the attractions of the ‘old town’, have a coffee in Hukfilm and spend the evening munching your way around the night market.

We spent 2 nights in the city and managed to see everything we wanted to, but could easily have spent a little longer. The city is very relaxed and if you’re after good food and coffee, Savannakhet is a perfect place to chill out in.

A wooden table and stools sits in the courtyard of the turquise painted ruins of the Lao Chaleun Rama Theater. On the wall an orange sign is lit up with stage lights with the name of the restaurant written in Laotian.

Final Thoughts - Is Savannakhet Worth A Visit?

We would 100% say yes, Savannakhet is absolutely worth a stopover.

It’s a city where you can just stop a little, take a step back and really slow down. The city is full of friendly locals, great food and drink, craft coffee shops and a super laid back atmosphere. It’s a small enough city, with all the “attractions” of the town all within a short walk from one another.

The city felt completely different to any of the other towns or cities we’ve visited in Laos and we loved just walking down the streets looking up at the historic buildings. We absolutely loved that the old buildings that were once ruins have now been given a new lease of life in the forms of modern coffee shops and art galleries.

We really didn’t know what to expect from Savannakhet but we really enjoyed our time there. It’s one of those places that’s difficult to put into words just why we liked it so much. During our adventures we’ve visited plenty of places that seem to be putting on a show for tourists, Savannakhet was not that, it was genuine and it was charming.

If you’re after good food, a fun night market and a chilled out vibe away from the usual Laotian backpacker scene, then make sure to add Savannakhet to your Laos itinerary!

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

The giant white and gold naga statue of Savannakhet slinks away from the viewer.

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Thakhek Town - The Complete Guide

Thakhek town is nestled in the heart of Central Laos. A gateway to the waterfalls, caves and mountains of the region the town itself is often overlooked - an afterthought or staging post on the usual Laotian itinerary. Read this guide to discover that there is more to this town than border runs and bike loops! Thakhek town is full of interesting temples, delicious food and great places to stay - read on to see why Thakhek town deserves a deeper look!

Nestled in the heart of Central Laos, Thakhek town is a full of great food, colonial architecture and history. A jumping off point for the famous “Thakhek Loop” and the amazing caves at Konglor, Thakhek town has become a hub for travellers heading to and from Central and Southern Laos. We have spent quite a bit of time exploring the town of Thakhek, really getting to know its nooks and crannies and we feel that it is well worth a place on your Laotian itinerary.

This is our guide to what to do, where to stay and what food not to miss during your time in Thakhek.

In this guide to Thakhek Town:

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

Sunset across the Mekong from the Thakhek riverbank. The sky is purple and pink with the opposite shores lights casting across the water — *Thakhek town has amazing views across the Mekong at sunset!*

What to do in Thakhek

Why come to Thakhek? Why not! There are tons of things to do in and around the town. Thakhek is a fantastic gateway not only to the Konglor Caves but to the beautiful heartlands of Central Laos. The town makes a great base to explore some of Laos' lesser known treasures, both nearby and slightly further afield.

Things to do in and around Thakhek town

If you are looking at keeping it local, Thakhek has plenty going on within walking distance, or a very short drive, from the centre of town:

Thakhek Town's Riverfront - Sunsets on the Mekong

Thakhek town sits on the eastern bank of the Mekong river, facing Thailand. Sitting this way means that Thakhek gets to enjoy some absolutely amazing sunsets! The town has made the most of its West-facing riverbank by paving a promenade along the edge of the Mekong.

a boat causes ripples in the otherwise mirror-calm surface of the Mekong river. The sun sets behind in a firey orange glow.

During the day this makes for a nice wander along the riverside, with cafes on the bank to nip into for a coffee or cheeky brownie. The promenade runs from the old ferry terminal in the north to the "Sunset Restaurant" in the south.

Come sundown, the riverbank's population swells as people come to watch the sky shift from blue to orange and then fade into the twilight of evening. On the southern end of the promenade you will find a string of cheap and cheerful BBQ joints selling beer and the traditional Laotian "stuff on a stick". It is a great way to end a day!

Explore the streets - French colonial architecture and Vietnamese influence

Thakhek is a town of many histories. Its name derives from its past as a trading port (its name translates roughly to boat-guest). Under French rule, its high street and administration buildings were rebuilt in the colonial style with colonnaded, balconied buildings. Also at the direction of the Colonial French, a large portion of the population was immigrant Vietnamese, "encouraged" to relocate by the French in their attempt to link Laos and Vietnam by railway.

The golden glow of evening shines down a Thakhek street, shops are selling motobike parts and the buildings are a mix of styles — *The streets of Thakhek are great to just wander about.*

A cute white puppy sits on a faded blue chair in the street. Behind the puppy is a brick and concrete wall that is gently moldering away. — *You never know what, or who, you will find!*

You can see strands of all of these ‘pasts’ by walking the streets of Thakhek. Beautiful colonial French facades sit alongside traditional Laotian and Vietnamese styled shophouses and homes. The town boasts several French style bakeries and coffee shops as well as some excellent Vietnamese food and the ever present, always tasty, Laotian charcoal grills.

21 March 1946 Memorial Park

A grim reminder of colonial brutality sits just off of Thakhek's riverfront. A large shrine and memorial sit in memory of the devastating battle of 1946 which marked the French re-colonisation of Indochina. The shrine memorialises a particularly horrible episode of history where the French forces disposed of the bodies of women and children by throwing them in the town well.

Nowadays the park and its beautiful shrine are still respected and revered, but are more often used by the locals to relax and play badminton and ball games in the cool of the evening.

A many tierd Laotian shrine rises up in white, gold, green and roange in the memorial square. The square itself is paved with topiaried hedges

Wat Nabo Si Pattanaram

Set on road that runs along Thakhek's riverfront this beautiful temple is well worth a visit. On the river's side is an ornate staircase, flanked by colourful Naga statues, their coiled bodies leading down to the water. On one side of the staircase is the "city pillar" of Thakhek, housed in an elaborately decorated shrine. The main temple sits on the other side of the road and is full of statues, gold leaf and the quintessentially Laotian blend of serenity and vibrancy.

A green and gold Naga stands sentinel over the Mekong river at sunset. A couple sit, outlined by the setting sun, on the steps next to the Naga statue — *Wat Nabo Si Pattanaram’s Naga statues are especially impressive at sun set.*

Wat Phathat Si Khottabong

A short drive outside of town is the huge Wat Phathat Si Khottabong. A focal point for worship in the area, the large temple houses a sacred stupa from the 3rd century believed to hold relics of the Buddha. The temple grounds are large and peaceful to explore with a massive prayer hall, fountains and amazing statues.

The huge white stupa of Wat Phathat Si Khottabong sits under a blazing Laotian sun. People are praying and there is an ornate cart parked in front of the stupa.

The area outside the temple is also used for night markets and festivals. When we visited in February there was a huge market and celebration going on with hundreds of food stalls crowding around the temple.

Exploring Central Laos - Day trips from Thakhek Town

Thakhek is perfectly situated to act as a gateway to the lesser explored regions in Central Laos. Full of waterfalls, amazing cave systems and incredible views, the central regions best attractions are usually only a day trip away from Thakhek town.

Everything we mention below can feature as a stop on the amazing motorbike / scooter adventure - the Thakhek Loop. But do not despair if you cannot ride a scooter (or just don't have the time to spare), you can do lots of the regions highlights as a day trip from Thakhek town.

The Thakhek Loop

The Loop is what the town is most famous for in backpacker and traveller circles. Thakhek town acts as the start and end of the epic multi-day ride. We have written an exhaustive guide to everything you can see and do on the Thakhek Loop as well as riding tips, accommodation recommendations and how to rent a bike. Read all about the Loop and details of all the places mentioned below here:

Thakhek Loop - A Complete Guide

The Thakhek Loop of Laos is an unforgettable motorbike journey. Our guide covers everything you need to know from how many days it takes to ride, a complete map of the loop, scooter hire, 2 to 5 day itineraries, every stop and attraction on the Loop as well as where to stay and what not to miss on this incredible adventure!

Cave Tour - Local Sights at Elephant Cave, Xieng Liap, Phaya In and Tham Nang Ene Cave

Only a short drive from downtown Thakhek are four fantastic caves to explore:

Elephant Cave - location

Xieng Liap Cave - location

Phaya In Cave - location

Tham Nang Ene Cave - location

The largest, and furthest away - Thang Nang Ene cave - is only 35 minutes drive from town. If you are going for a day trip we would advise to go all the way out to Thang Nang Ene Cave and work backwards.

Multicolored lights cast vibrant glows across the cavernous interior of Thang Nam Ene cave. Staircases weave in an out of the rocks like an MC Escher drawing — *Thang Nam Ene Cave - It is like a multicolored Moria*

You could pair the cave visits with a lunch and swim at...

Thafalang - Swimming and food amidst mountains

Sitting in a beautiful mountain ringed valley, this restaurant / resort floats on a crystal clear and fish filled river. Thafalang makes a perfect rest stop to swim and cool off in the river before eating a delicious Laotian feast from their restaurant. It costs 50,000 kip for one of their riverside floating huts and is worth every penny.

We actually stayed at Thafalang for a night, make sure you read the our Thakhek Loop guide (linked above) for all the details.

Rows of floating huts line the riverbank under towering mountains at Thafalang — *We enjoyed an amazing swim and a fantastic fishy feast at Thafalang - check out our* *Thakhek Loop guide* *for more info.*

Konglor Caves

(Location)

The caves at Konglor defy description (very helpful for a travel blog, we know); they are just too big, too impressive. The cave system winds 7km through a mountain, houses cathedrals of hollow stone, stalactites and mites the size of factory chimneys and a dark river winding throughout everything. It is unbelievably impressive!

The Konglor Caves are quite a way outside of Thakhek but there are several tours and day trips available that will take you there and back inside of a day. If you have more time to spare, but do not want to ride the whole Thakhek Loop you can catch a bus from Thakhek to Na Hin and then change for a ride down to Konglor Village. The village has loads of great guesthouses and restaurants and would make for a great overnight stop.

We have gone into much more detail about visiting the Konglor Caves and staying in Konglor Village in our Thakhek Loop article, make sure you check it out here.

A rover flows out of the craggy cave mouth at Konglor. Rocks are strewn in the river and the mountains rise up all around — *The entrance to Konglor Caves gives no clues at what is hidden inside!*

There are several tour agencies in town who can arrange a tour to the Konglor Caves, just be aware it will probably be quite an early start and a long day!

You could also combine a visit to Konglor Caves with an adventure at...

The Rock Viewpoint - Ziplines and adventure park

Vientiane to Thakhek bus tickets

If you are looking for adventure and adrenaline, The Rock has you covered. Set high up on top of a mountain, The Rock is full of zip wire lines, high-wire spider-net courses and incredible viewpoints. The Rock Viewpoint is in a unique geological area - the Stone Forest. This rocky, improbable landscape is a great backdrop for some adrenaline pumping adventures.

There are also some options for those not seeking the thrills; there is a great boardwalk trail through a portion of the Stone Forest (this is what we did and we loved it!), as well as a restaurant and café, all making the most of the incredible views.

A sweeping view acrosss the craggy "Stone Forest" and surrounding mountains from the Rock Viewpoint

If you were looking to stay there overnight there are also some very unique accommodation choices at the Rock. Pods overlooking or even overhanging the massive sweeping views. Check out some of the rooms here.

The company that operates the Rock Viewpoint offers a variety of packages and tours. You can even use them to get a tour that includes the Konglor Caves. They also run one of the nicer hotels in town - The Inthira Thakhek - but more on that later! Check out their costs and packages here.

Where is Thakhek? - Getting to the town and where to go next

Thakhek can be found here on a map. Nestled down in Central Laos the western side of Thakhek borders Thailand, the two countries separated by the Mekong River. Thakhek is around 335 km southeast of the Laotian capital Vientiane, about a 5.5 hour drive.

Thakhek town is well connected by bus to all the major Laotian towns, cities and traveller hotspots. Whether you are arriving in Thakhek from the Cambodian border to the south, coming in from Vang Vieng and Vientiane in the north or hopping across the river from Thailand, Thakhek is a useful transport hub for exploring Central and Southern Laos.

Thakhek by bus - getting around Laos

By far the most common way to get to or from Thakhek is by bus. The main bus stations can be found a little way outside of the town (we were dropped here). As is unfortunately common in Laos, there is a larger than usual taxi fare to drive from the bus stop into the town itself - expect to pay around 50,000 kip per person for the 4+km ride.

If you book a ticket from Thakhek, most of the guesthouses will offer a pick up service to get you to the bus station, if you book online - look for the tickets including hostel/hotel pickup.

A view of the Thakhek 1946 memorial shrine from above. White columns and walls are crowned with gold and topped by a red, gold and green roof. — *Once in Thakhek town, it is easy to get around. Most of the restaurants, accommodation, coffee shops and bars are on or near the riverfront.*

Vientiane to Thakhek

The journey between the Laotian capital and Thakhek takes around 5.5 hours and there are multiple bus companies offering the route.

Either head on down to the bus station, ask at your accommodation or check out 12Go to book in advance.

Thakhek to Vientiane bus tickets

Vang Vieng to Thakhek

The backpacker and adventure travel town of Vang Vieng is around 7 hours and 460km away from Thakhek. If you are travelling from Vang Vieng to Thakhek there are several daily buses you can book online. Most will require a change in Vientiane (even when this is not explicitly stated!). You can book them from any guesthouse or travel agency in Vang Vieng or online in advance through 12Go below:

Vang Vieng - Thakhek bus tickets

If you are travelling the other direction - Thakhek to Vang Vieng - you will need to transfer in the capital of Vientiane. There wasn't an option to book this direction online - if this changes let us know in the comments!

Thakhek to Savannakhet

If you are looking to explore the fantastic night market, colonial architecture and amazing repurposed art deco buildings of Savannakhet you can take a 2 hour bus the 120km south from Thakhek. There is not much online booking available for this route but you can easily book a minivan / bus from your accommodation in Thakhek. We paid 150,000 kip each for our tickets on a minivan with hostel pickup.

Thakhek to Pakse

If you are looking to go south and explore Pakse, the Bolaven Plateau (and its motorbike loop) or the ruins at Champasak, there are several daily buses heading the 330km south to the town.

Again book in advance with 12Go or from the bus station or your guesthouse.

Thakhek to Pakse bus tickets

Pakse to Thakhek bus tickets

Thakhek to Don Det - The 4000 Islands

Laos may be landlocked but it still boasts beaches, bars and laid back, old-school backpacker vibes from its 4000 Mekong Islands at Don Det. To get to the 4000 Islands from Thakhek you will need to get the bus to Pakse then, usually the next morning, get a minivan down to Nakasong and finally, a short ferry across to Don Det. After you reach Pakse from Thakhek, there are two daily buses to Nakasong and Don Det. Both buses leave in the morning and fill up fast, so book early! We paid 130,000 kip per person for combined bus and ferry tickets both times we travelled from Pakse to Don Det. You can use the links above for the Thakhek - Pakse journey but will need to arrange the Pakse - Don Det leg with your accommodation.

To travel up from Don Det to Pakse is a simple 10 minute ferry to Nakasong followed by a long (around 8 hour) bus journey all the way (470km) to Thakhek. You can book this route in advance online here:

Don Det to Thakhek by bus

International travel from Thakhek

Depending where you want to go / where you are coming from you can book a number of international buses from Thakhek. From Cambodia to Thailand and Vietnam there are several bus routes leading from Thakhek out of Laos. Check out the 12Go widget at the bottom of this section.

The High Speed Railway - Getting to Thakhek from northern Laos

If you are looking to go, or are coming from the North of Laos - Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng etc then you can take advantage of Laos’ new high speed railway. The trainline drastically cuts down journey times and links Vientiane to Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. It takes the journey from Luang Prabang to Vientiane from over seven hours down to two! This means you can travel to or from Thakhek and the south a lot faster than you used to.

To use the train service to get to Thakhek from the north. Catch the train from Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang to Vientiane and then change onto a bus to Thakhek. It will save you hours on Laos' bumpy roads!

If you are on a tight budget and don't mind the extra journey time you can book yourself on a sleeper bus from the north, just be aware that you will probably have to change buses in Vientiane anyway!

For more information on the high speed railway including how to book - check out our article here.

Crossing the Border Thailand to Laos - Nakhon Phanom to Thakhek

If you are coming to Thakhek from Thailand or plan to leave Laos at Thakhek, it is a short ride across the Mekong and the Thai - Laos Friendship Bridge at Nakhon Phanom.

From the Thai side of the border buses leave Nakhon Phanom 4 times a day to Thakhek town. The bus costs 75 baht per person. The buses from Thailand are scheduled at 9am, 11:30am, 2:30pm and 16:30pm. The buses from Thakhek to Thailand are meant to run at 9:30am, 11:30am, 2:30pm and 16:30pm - but check with the bus station first!

If you are travelling without using the bus you can find the Thai border crossing point here and the Laotian border point here. On both sides of the border there will be taxis, tuk-tuks and songtheaws waiting to take you into town.

If you are entering Laos through this border be aware that it does NOT accept E-visa’s at the moment. You will need to purchase a ‘Visa on Arrival’.

Thakhek as a "border run" town

Thakhek has long been a popular place for people attempting a "border run" to renew/extend their visa in Thailand.

You can stamp out of Thailand, cross the Friendship Bridge, enter Laos (paying for the Laotian Visa). You then turn around and do it all again in reverse to re-enter Thailand on a new visa. You may need to go all the way into and then back out of Thakhek town (using the bus) to do this.

Online reports seem to suggest this route is fairly common. We cannot comment on "visa running" but if you have come all the way to Thakhek and spent the money on the visa - why not stay a while and enjoy Laos?!

A view across the Mekong at sunset. On the otherside of the river is Nakhon Phanom, Thailand. — *You can litterally see Nakhon Phanom from Thakhek!*

Booking transport online

If you are travelling from Vietnam, Cambodia or just a different destination in Laos and you want to secure your ticket in advance, check out all the online options from 12Go with their city widget below:

Accommodation - Where to stay in Thakhek

Despite being a popular town to visit, and acting as a gateway to the famous "Thakhek loop" (seriously you should read our mega article about the loop!), Thakhek town does not have an overabundance of places to stay. There are a few hostels and plenty of dorm rooms as well as a couple of higher end offerings. We have stayed multiple times in Thakhek and these are our recommendations:

Backpacker accommodation - KFG Hostel / Guesthouse

Located slap bang in the centre of town KFG was just what we needed to find. We stayed both before and after our epic Thakhek Loop experience and both times it was cheap, comfy and clean with helpful staff. KFG has dorm rooms as well as private rooms. On our first stay (prior to the loop) we had a cheap private room with shared bathroom. When we finished the loop we upgraded to a private bedroom with an en-suite. Both rooms had access to a great balcony / veranda overlooking the town square and both times we stayed were great.

The guesthouse can also sort out your onward travel, book tours, give advice about the Loop and even rent you bikes and scooters. It was the most popular place for backpackers to stay and the rooms can sell out fast so book early!

To have a look at availability or book a room at KFG Guesthouse - Click here

A little luxury - Inthira Thakhek

Sometimes its nice to treat yourself. We have been on the road now for around 3 years and, every so often, it is nice to have a real hotel stay. We love our hostels, homestays and guesthouses but, every so often we will treat ourselves to something a little more bougie. Inthira Thakhek was just such a treat. Set in an amazing colonial-era building we had a gorgeous balcony room with views over the square and down to the river front. Having such a nice balcony meant that we could just chill in in the evenings, drinking a beer and admiring the view. We also had breakfast included in our deal and the congee, or rice porridge was a great way to start a days exploration (they do have western options too).

If you are looking for something a little more fancy, book Inthira Thakhek here.

The Inthira Hotel Thakhek sits on an intersection. Its colonial frontage and balconies looking out over the town. — *The Inthira is littlerally in the center of everything in town. You can see the amazing balconies!*

Other accommodation in Thakhek

There are a few other places to stay in and around Thakhek. Check out our handy map below for all the online accommodation offerings:

If you do stay elsewhere, let us know in the comments how it was, we are sure to be back in Thakhek someday!

Where to Eat - Food in Thakhek

Thakhek town has lots to offer the hungry traveller. Like most of Laos, it is possible to eat very well for not very much money. Being long term backpackers with large appetites we have eaten our way around the town and would recommend the following:

A neon lit line of food stalls at Thakhek Night Market. Stalls and tables strech away filled with colorful produce and foods.

Thakhek Night Market - Centre Point

By far the most popular place to be when the sun has set, Thakhek's Night Market is stuffed with places to eat. Set inside a covered building, it feels more like a food court than a "traditional" night market. You can have pretty much any of the SE Asian favourites to eat here, from pad thai to pork leg rice, banana pancakes to Laotian BBQ. At the riverside entrance to the market is a large hot-pot restaurant and bar with live music on the weekends.

A lady tends to her stall, phone in hand, at the night market. In the foreground are bundles of muchrooms and vegetables and a steamer can be seen behind her.

A zoomed in shot of the night market. Deep fried enoki mushrooms share a stall with roasted meats.

We ate in the market twice, both times getting different variations on the theme of noodle soup. Both times were cheap (40,000 kip per bowl), yummy and just what was needed!

Crispy Pork Noodles at R'Zim Pork and Duck Restaurant

This little shop house restaurant has a reassuringly small menu. We opted for the crispy pork noodles and they were amongst the best we tasted in Laos. Perfectly roasted pork belly, topped with deliciously crunchy crackling - what more can you need?! The bowls were very well priced at 40,000 kip each.

A bowl of crispy pork and yellow noodles sits in an oily but clear broth. It is crowned with chunks of crackling pork, crispy deep fried wontons, cabbage and deep fried garlic chips

Sunset beer and BBQ stalls

(location) - Available everywhere on this stretch of the river - no formal Google listing.

As the sun sets the fires of Laotian BBQs are stoked into life along the Mekong's banks. Plastic chairs and metal tables are unfolded and shop-cart barbecue restaurants open up. It is a perfect place to have a beer and watch an amazing Mekong sunset. A beer also pairs very well with any of the skewers of barbecued meat or fish sold at these stalls. There are plenty of different stalls to choose from all selling very similar menus, so just find the one with the best view!

A cart is piled high with sticks of roasted meat, fish and squid. All the skewers are laid out on top of green leaves and the Mekong is visable behind the seller — *You always have a good variety of choice with Laotian BBQ!*

Two orange/brown bottles of beerlao are illuminated by the setting sun. In the background is the calm surface of the Mekong River. — *Everything goes well with a sunset and a beerlao!*

Bánh Mỳ Ngon

Thakhek has a history of immigration, both forced and voluntary, from Vietnam. The cuisine of the town reflects this mixing of cultures. Bánh Mỳ Ngon is a fantastic example of truly delicious Vietnamese food in Laos. The restaurant does serve the titular Bánh Mỳ but not in the way those visiting from the West might expect. This Bánh Mỳ is not a sandwich: a sizzle plate full of runny egg, meatballs, sauce and chilli is paired with a charcoal toasted baguette. You make your own sandwich, or as we did, tear, smear and scoop all the deliciousness with the bread. If you haven't tried this genre of Vietnamese food you really should. Bánh Mỳ Ngon was an unexpected delight in our visits to Thakhek. It was also very cheap, each plate cost only 30,000kip!

A cow shaped sizzle plate is stacked high with meatballs, chilli sauce, fried egg and vegetables all swimming in a gravy from the meat. Two crunchy baguettes sit ready nearby

Make sure you get there early - it is a breakfast restaurant and only open from 6am until midday or earlier if it sells out!

Le Bouton D’or

If your looking for a slightly fancier place to watch the sun set from, Le Bouton D'or makes a fantastic choice. Sharing a name and owner with the boutique hotel on the other side of the road Le Bouton D'or has a beautiful view of the sun set over the Mekong. We enjoyed a few reasonably priced beers here after we finished the Loop and it was a very nice place to celebrate.

Full disclosure: We didn't eat here. Le Bouton D'or was a little pricey and very 'tourist friendly' in it's menu - lots of fries and pizza options. However, it did look the ideal place for people who wanted a break from Laotian noodles and rice. If you do eat here let us know in the comments how the food was!

Coffee in Thakhek - Getting your caffeine fix

It wouldn't be an Adventures of Jellie article without some mention of coffee. We cannot resist a good cup of the brown stuff (wow that sentence sounded better in my head). Thakhek has a couple of really good places to have a cuppa, these are our recommendations:

Yo and Ko Cafe

Yo and Ko Cafe was our favourite and most visited coffee shop in Thakhek. Sitting right next to the main town temple and the night market this coffee shop served up fantastic iced coffees and sweet treats. Their iced latte were the perfect sweetness to coffee bitterness ratio and fuelled us in the mornings and re-energised our afternoons!

Two iced lattes sit in the sylish interior of Yo and Ko Cafe. Chinese style lanterns hang from the celings and a slab of "brookie" sits invitingly in the foreground — *Make sure you treat yourself to one of their delicious "brookies" - the delicious love-child of a brownie and a cookie!*

An iced latte costs 35,000 kip - Not expensive at all for craft coffee!

Via Thakhek Hostel and Cafe

Another standout of the Thakhek coffee scene is Via Thakhek Cafe. Set in the stylish downstairs of the hostel of the same name, Via serves up delicious fresh ground rocket fuel. We especially loved their iced americanos which were strong enough to wake the dead!

Wooden shutters and doors lead into the Via Thakhek cafe, the building has a colonial style frontage but a corrugated iron roof

One iced americano from Via Thakhek costs 30,000 kip.

Conclusion - Thakhek Town, more than just the loop!

Most travellers, especially backpackers will use Thakhek as a gateway to the Thakhek / Konglor Loop but the town is special in its own right. From richly decorated temples to riverside views, good food and lovely people, Thakhek has lots to offer those who give it a try, it definitely deserves to be more than a border run or finishing line! Stay that extra day and get to know the place, it is well worth your while and will open your eyes to a little more of Laos!

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

For all our Laotian adventures check out our blogs and guides here:

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Riding The Thakhek Loop - The Ultimate Guide

A motorbike loop set in the heart of Laos, the Thakhek Loop takes riders through incredible landscapes of limestone karsts, past flooded forests, famous caves and stunning waterfalls. The Thakhek Loop of Laos has flown under the radar for many years but is now gaining popularity amongst adventure seeking backpackers eager to leave behind the tour groups and crowds. The pinnacle of the loop is the jaw-dropping caves and caverns at Konglor. Now rising in popularity, the Thakhek Loop is an essential experience for backpackers travelling through Laos.

The Thakhek Loop (also known as the Konglor Loop) is recognised as one of the most fun, accessible and exciting motorbike loops anywhere in Asia. Easier to ride than Vietnam’s famous Ha Giang Loop, the Thakhek Loop attracts all kinds of riders. From those with decades of experience on 2 wheels to those riding for the very first time.

This is our complete and exhaustive guide to the Thakhek Loop. We’ve covered everything from hiring your motorbike, suggested itineraries, routes, a custom map to essential tips, tricks and packing information. If you’re looking for something specific, check out the contents page below, but if you’re interested in the Loop generally and don’t want to miss out on some of its lesser known gems, we’d recommend having a read of the whole guide.

Make sure you save our custom Google Map which has all the attractions, accommodation and routes marked.

Two white Honda Click scooters sit on a road infront of dry rice paddys. In the background the grey blue mountains of Konglor loom. Taken on the Thakhek Loop, Laos

In This Guide:

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

What Is The Thakhek Loop And Where Is It?

The Thakhek Loop is a motorbike / scooter route that leaves the town of Thakhek, travels through the Laotian countryside past caves and viewpoints towards the Vietnamese border before curving back into Central Laos. Passing by incredible viewpoints, waterfalls and natural swimming pools, the route winds down to the Konglor Caves before arching back along a main road into Thakhek town. The Loop starts and ends in the town of Thakhek which you can find on a map here.

Ellie rides a white and black Honda Click scooter across a bridge in Laos, On the bridge are two brown cows and in front of her enormous grey limestone cliffs rise up.

How Long Is The Thakhek Loop?

The normal loop is a 450 km round trip. We recommend a couple of extra excursions which take the total length up to about 470 km of driving.

You can spend as long or as little time as you like exploring the Loop. It’s possible to drive the whole thing in just 2 days if you really wanted to - although we would not recommend this. We think the ideal time to spend on the Thakhek Loop is between 3 - 5 days. We took our time and enjoyed extra days in a couple of places and spent 5 days (4 nights) on the Loop. You can easily fit in most of the “main attractions” with only 2 nights but it would involve a lot of driving and not much time off of the bikes!

For most people 4 days (3 nights) would be an ideal compromise between seeing the best of the Loop and ensuring you have enough time to see the rest of Laos.

Which Way Round The Loop Should I Drive?

There is no right answer to this. You can do the Loop in either direction. The more popular route is to leave Thakhek and travel anti-clockwise with the last day being spent on the main road back to Thakhek.

You could easily do the route the other way round and get the main road over with at the beginning.

We travelled and would highly recommend the traditional way round. The itineraries we suggest below would work whichever way round the Loop you choose.

Two white and black Honda Clicks sit parked on a road underneath a carved stone Buddha statue on the Thakhek Loop.

The Thakhek Loop - Routes, Itineraries And Map

There’s so much to see and do on the Thakhek Loop that it might be a little overwhelming. We took our time on the Loop and visited practically every attraction and sight along the way and have come up with some itineraries and routes to give you the best experience whatever your schedule.

For all of our recommendations, attraction locations, accommodation stops and Loop information we will be referring to the Google Map we have created, make sure you check it out and save your own copy below!

All the locations we mention, along with their map references will be in our “what to see on the Loop” section of this guide.

Thakhek Loop - Complete Map

The complete map for riding your scooter or motorbike on the Thakhek Loop. Featuring all of the stops to make, best accommodation and places to eat.

To save a link to this map, click here.

Thakhek Loop recommended itinerary - 3 to 5 days (2 to 4 nights)

This is our recommended itinerary. You can see all the sights in 3 days but if you have enough time in your Laotian schedule, we’d recommend adding an extra day or 2 to your Loop to relax in some amazing places.

This itinerary allows you to take your time, see everything, stop at swimming spots and not rush through the gorgeous scenery.

Day 1 - Thakhek to Sabaidee Guesthouse / Thalang Village - 107 km not including detours

Start early in the morning (most motorbike rentals in Thakhek open from 7.30am) and head from Thakhek to Elephant Cave (stopping at B96 Cafe for coffee).
From the Elephant Cave drive the quick and scenic “Mini Elephant Cave Loop” (see map).
Optional stop - Drive towards the cave at Tham Nong Pa Fa there is also a lake and cave here but it was closed when we visited.
Optional stop - Drive the main road to Xieng Liap Cave.
Turn off the main road again and head to Thafalang. This could actually be your first accommodation stop if you are doing 4 or 5 days on the loop, otherwise it is a fun swim and lunch spot.
Drive “The Thafalang Mini Loop” (see map).
Drive back down the main road to Phaya In Cave.
Visit Tham Nang Ene Cave.
Take the long drive to Pha Katai Viewpoint.
Come off the main road and drive down the gravel path alongside the lake to Song Sa Waterfall - another good place for a swim.
Optional stop - visit the abandoned boat restaurant and lakeshore - the town of Nakai has plenty of restaurants.
Drive out of town through the mountain roads to the Orchid Path Trail and Viewpoint.
Stay overnight at Sabaidee Guesthouse in Thalang village (if Sabaidee is full there are other accommodation choices available - see later on).

You can see why you may want to split this itinerary over 2 days. If you want to see all the stops we’ve listed above, you have a lot to fit in!

If you want to follow our example and have the time, we did all the caves and sights up and around Thafalang on day 1 then stayed the night at Thafalang Resort. We then set off the next morning and did everything on this list up to and including the Pha Katai Viewpoint. As we hadn't booked any accommodation for that night we then made a beeline to Sabaidee Guesthouse. We made it to Thalang village a little after 1pm, grabbed a room and doubled back and did the rest of the sights (Song Sa Waterfall, the abandoned boat and the Orchid Path Trail). Our stay at Thafalang meant we could fit all of this into one day and not feel rushed - also the road between the dam, Nakhai and Thalang village is stunning and great fun to drive - doing what we did meant we could ride its curves 3 times! Doing this itinerary also meant we had plenty of time to swim at both Song Sa Waterfalls and Thafalang.

Day 2 - Sabaidee Guesthouse / Thalang Village to Konglor Cave - 150 km not including detours

Leave Sabaidee early and drive through the Flooded Forest (Google Maps viewpoint is randomly placed, just pull over and admire the view wherever - it is all stunning).

Stop and admire the carved Sandstone Buddhas.
Plough on to Lak Sao and grab a coffee from LAKXAO Coffee (and some breakfast noodles from the lady next door).
Drive to Dragon Cave and explore its caverns and amazing viewpoint.
Take a detour to the Cool Pool and chill out / take a dip / grab a snack from the nearby restaurant.
Drive all the way to Na Hin before turning off the main road and taking the long beautiful stretch to Konglor Caves.
Find a guesthouse in Konglor village - we recommend Konglor Eco Lodge.

Optional Day - Konglor Village

We chose to spend 2 nights in Konglor and really, really recommend it. It was one of the best and cheapest rooms we have had in Laos, with a beautiful balcony and hammock overlooking green fields and towering mountains. The town has a few different places to eat so we did not get bored with the food and there are also a couple of places (other than our balcony) to enjoy a cheeky beer. Staying an extra night in Konglor also meant we could have a relaxed day off of the bikes and explore the enormous cave system whenever we wanted to.

If you are not taking this optional day remember the last cave boat leaves late afternoon - Google says 5pm but we have heard it is seasonal and can be quite a bit earlier. The caves open at 8am so you could always just get up and visit Konglor Cave the next morning.

There are also 2 more caves to discover and explore - Tham Nam Non Cave and the ominously named Skull Cave. We did not get to these, let us know what we missed in the comments!

If you don't have the time for an extra day in Konglor you can still easily do the caves, the last day doesn't have as many stops as the previous couple so you don't have to rush around. The only instance where you may have to be a little wary of the time is if you are doing any of the zip-line excursions from The Rock (see later).

Konglor is a lovely village and worth a little of your time. Also it was nice for our behinds to have a day not riding the bikes!

Final Day - Konglor Village to Thakhek - 190 km.

Today is a long drive so get up early. Start at Konglor and visit the caves if you haven’t already - the caves take around 3 hours to visit.

At this point, if you are feeling daring, you could load your bikes onto boats and float them through the caves before riding back along the loop. This would avoid the long ride on the main road - Check out the later section on bringing your bikes through the cave! We didn’t know this was an option so continued on the route below.

Drive up to “The Rock Viewpoint” - this is an adventure activity park and you could easily spend half a day here (see later on for more details).
Drive down the mountain road before rejoining the main road which leads back to Thakhek.
Along the way stop for lunch - we’d recommend the Lea Noodle Shop at Hinboun.
Optional stop - pull over and have a quick peek at the “Giant Wall”.
Cruise back into Thakhek.
450+ km ridden - Loop completed!

A sandy beach lines the shoreline of a green river. The river flows towards a towering grey mountain. At the bottom of the mountain a dark cave opening can be seen.

Thakhek Loop 2 day itinerary

If you are short on time and happy to do a lot of long rides, you could do the loop in 2 days - spending only 1 night on the loop. You would not get to see everything and would have to have some very early mornings, but it can be done. Just be aware that you have to get all the way to Konglor Cave before 3pm if you want to do the cave tour that day!

If you’re doing the shorter itinerary, it makes sense to do the Loop in a clockwise direction and have Konglor Caves be your first stop after an early start in Thakhek.

If you look at the 3-4 day loop itinerary there are a lot of places you could skip if you are in a real hurry. For a 1 night 2 day loop you will need to either stay at Konglor Village or, for a more balanced but very hectic itinerary, you could split your journey at Sabaidee Guesthouse at Thalang Village. If you choose to do the loop in 2 days you will need to drive over 200 km each day. This may or may not be an issue depending on which bike you rent but it will involve long days either way.

Day 1 - Thakhek to Thalang Village

Thakhek - Konglor - Start the route clockwise - eastwards (the opposite way to most loopers). Set off early and drive the main road all the way to Na Hin and down to Konglor to do a cave tour as early as possible in the morning.

Konglor - Sabaidee Guesthouse / Thalang Village - Drive back up to Na Hin then over the mountains. If you are making good time (and are not done with caves yet!), stop at the Dragon Cave and viewpoint. Continue on past the turning to the Vietnamese border at Lak Sao and down through more mountains, past the Sandstone Buddhas, the Flooded Forest and to Thalang Village and Saibadee Guesthouse.

If you have the time you can go on and explore the Orchid Viewpoint Trail. Make sure you do not leave it too late, you do not want to be finding your way back down in the dark. If you do not have time today you will be driving past it the next day.

Day 2 - Thalang Village to Thakhek

Start as early as possible. Ride south out of the Flooded Forest. If you didn’t do the Orchid Trail the previous afternoon, you can do so now. Continue out of the mountains and take a quick look at Song Sa Waterfalls. Ride over and past the dam and resevoir and pass the turning to the border at Gnommalat.

Take in the view at the Pha Katai Viewpoint and power down towards the string of caves outside of Thakhek. Depending on your speed and what time it is you could visit: Phaya In Cave, Tham Nang Ene Cave, Elephant Cave and/or Xieng Liap Cave. If you are early enough to squeeze in a quick swim and a meal, you could head to Thafalang. Before driving victoriously back into Thakhek

As you can see the 2 day, 1 night itinerary is very hectic and will involve a lot of long drives, but it can be done. If you have a larger motorbike as opposed to a scooter it wouldn’t even be that uncomfortable to do the distances involved. Just get up early and see as much as you can with the time you can spare!

A sweeping view over the plains and valleys of the Thakhek region. In the horizon distant mountains are visable. — *Even on a shorter itinerary, you’ll still be treated to incredible roadside views!*

Longer / Alternative Thakhek Loops

You can of-course spend as long as you like riding the Thakhek Loop. There are many more villages to explore, caves to find and even an entire National Park that we could not fit into our itinerary.

The Hin Nam No National Park loop would take you off our route before the Pha Nakai Viewpoint, loop you around the National Park through waterfalls and on a boat through a cave. From there the route would join the Ho Chi Minh Trail and take you past trekking routes and caves to rejoin the main Thakhek loop along the border road to Vietnam. If you do this route please let us know how it was in the comments, we’re gutted we didn’t get to try it!

Taking your bike through Konglor Cave

There is also another way of doing the Thakhek Loop. From Konglor Cave it is possible to load your motorbike or scooter onto a boat, sail it through the caves and disembark at the village of Natane. From here you can ride down through the valley reconnecting you with the main loop road between Nakhai and Thalang Village.

To take your bike through the Konglor Cave, it will cost between 30 & 35 USD per scooter. This would be a fantastic adventure, we are sad we didn’t know it was an option until too late. We were told it wasn’t running anymore and that the road between Natane and the Loop was in terrible shape. We have now met travellers who have confirmed that it is still running but that the road back is definitely a difficult ride.

Several of the rental companies will request that you do not do this route as they feel the way back is too dificult for novice riders. Be aware that if you do come unstuck you will be responsible for any repairs!

We are so annoyed we did not know this was an option when we rode the Loop. We would have loved to do the route through the caves and ride the Loop in reverse. It would make for a phenomenal adventure and would actually skip the long main road drive back to Thakhek.

A blue boat floats down along a green blue river. On either side the jungle rises up. Taken on the approach to Natane Village in Laos.

Stops On The Thakhek Loop - What To See And Do

These are all of the stops and attractions you can drive to on the Thakhek loop. They are all marked on the map but we have also included individual map location links. You do not have to do all of these places, all though if you have the time they are all worth a stop!

We have arranged them in the order you would encounter them in our suggested 3-5 day Itinerary.

Elephant Cave

Depending on whether you’ve stopped for breakfast or coffee beforehand, this is usually the first stop you’ll make on the Loop.

Head through the ornate temple gate and up the stone stairs to find a small shrine in an impressive high ceilinged cave full of colourful flags. At the top of the cave you’ll find a large seated golden Buddha and a secret shrine to the right.

Ticket price: 10,000 kip per person.

An ornate triangular carved blue, red and gold gate marks the entrance to the 'Elephant Cave'. The gateway is inscribed with Buddhist iconography.

Elephant Cave Mini Loop and Kuan Cow Cave

After Elephant Cave turn left as you exit and take a short route through local villages, past limestone karsts and paddy fields. If you have time you can stop at Kuan Cow Cave.

Check out the map for a clear route.

The ride is easy on compacted dirt roads with a slightly dusty gravel section leading back to the main road. See our map for the exact route. We highly recommend this short detour as it was very pretty and we didn’t see any other “loopers” on our ride.

Tham Nong Pa Fa

A short detour off of the main road through stunning scenery brings you to a dusty car park lined with tourist shops.

A raised concrete walkway with a red fence leads towards the entrance to the Buddha Cave hidden beneath the dense foliage and cliffside in Laos. — *Just follow the raised pathway to reach the cave!*

Exit to the right to find Tham Nong Pa Fa Cave. Inside the cave is a jewel box of Buddha statues, shrines and offerings. Outside, at the base of the cave a beautifully clear lake flows out of the mountain. In different seasons boat trips may be available.

You will need to take off your shoes to enter the cave and there is strictly no photography allowed inside. If you’re a female you’ll be asked to wear a sarong. These can be borrowed for 5000 kip.

Ticket price: 5000 kip per person and 6000 kip parking.

Tham Pa Sueam

Accessed via the same car park as Tham Nong Pa Fa, Tham Pa Sueam was closed for renovations when we were there but it may have reopened by the time you visit. There is a large lake and cave to explore. Let us know in the comments if this has reopened.

Xieng Liap Cave

Down a very short path off the main road are two car parks either side of the river. It doesn’t matter which you park in, just head to the ticket booth and walk the short way down to see the cave.

A river flows out of a huge opening full of jagged rocks. The cave goes deep into the mountainside but the path when we visited (dry season) only wound down into the mouth. You can explore further if you have a torch and don’t mind getting a bit wet.
There are high-wired bridges, climbing nets and other adventure activities on offer here as well as a zip–line and accommodation.

Ticket price: 10,000 kip per person plus 5000 kip scooter parking. If you want to do the zipline activities it is an extra 293,000 kip per person.

John walks towards a huge cave opening wearing black clothes and a black backpack. In front of him huge rocky boulder line the floor.

Thafalang

A short way off the main road you’ll find a large car park serving Thafalang Restaurant and Resort. This is a great place to stop and cool off. Floating on either side of a turquoise, fish-filled river are bamboo booths where you can just dive off and swim in the refreshing water. Food, drink and accommodation is available (we actually stayed here - see more in the accommodation section). The location is stunning with the resort and river restaurant being sandwiched between mountain peaks. We can also confirm that the sunsets here are phenomenal.

We had a brilliant afternoon relaxing in the sun, swimming in the river and eating a delicious feast of fish.
Ticket price: It’s 50,000 kip to use one of the floating huts or free if you’re staying the night. Food is a little bit more expensive than elsewhere but very, very good.

A row of floating bamboo huts line the green riverside at Thafalang. Behind the huts enormous towering limestone mountains rise up to the skyline. In the foreground, grey fish can be seen swimming in the river. — *The fish at Thafalang are very inquisitive!*

The Thafalang Mini Loop

After Thafalang, continue on the road away from the main road and take a short 15-20 minute loop along pretty small roads, through villages and down a valley lined with impressive jagged mountains. It is a dirt road but compacted and well maintained. We set off in the morning and hardly saw another person, just beware of rogue cows!

The loop brings you out only 10 minutes down the road from the 2 caves that you will then need to double back to.

Check out the map for a clear route for this mini loop.

Phaya In Cave

Next to the main road is this small, and when we visited, under-construction cave shrine.

Marked by a curtain of colourful flags, the entrance winds down into a beautiful cavern. In the centre sits a lake reflecting the colourful bunting above and the orange and gold wrapped stalactites.

Ticket price: Free when we visited.

A tapestry of multicoloured woven triangles strung across tree branches marks the entrance to the Phaya Inn Cave in Laos.

Tham Nang Ene Cave

This is the largest cave on the first portion of the loop. Drive a short way off a well signposted turning on the main road and enter the huge car park. The cave itself is stunning, a cathedral of enormous stone spaces with amazing rock formations, stalactites, stalagmites and columns of sparkling stone. The whole cave is sat above and around a river that flows deep into the dark of the mountain. The cave is lit by multi-colored neon lights (for some reason) and you can do a circular walk on stone paths and raised walkways. There are also boat trips available that take you further into the cave.

Stone staircases lit by neon lights lead away in all directions in the depths of the Tham Nang Ene Cave in Laos.

This one doesn't look like much from the outside, with its neon lights, dutch windmill on the entrance and cheesy looking car park, but it is 100% worth a stop.

There are toilets, fast food and a coffee shop on site. There is also a zipline available but we did not try it out!
Ticket price: 50,000 kip per person 120,000 kip to hire a boat.

Pha Katai Viewpoint (Rabbit Cliff Viewpoint)

Turn off the main road into a bizarre abandoned resort and waterpark, if you see the restaurant with the replica ship you have gone too far! The “car park” for the viewpoint is a flat piece of land directly next to the stairs up to the viewpoint. A lady will magically appear on a scooter to sell you your ticket.

The viewpoint is up a precarious rusty-looking metal staircase somehow attached to the mountainside - we questioned how it ever got built! The stairs are, in places, quite far apart so it is not one for vertigo sufferers. The viewpoint however is worth the climb. At the top, over some shoddily repaired walkways, is a stone forest of sharp grey rocks and an incredible view over the mountains and plains all the way to the border with Vietnam.

The climb was not long but was quite steep. We are no mountain goats but we were up in 15 minutes.
Ticket price: 10,000 kip per person

Jagged, sharp grey rocks rise away from the reader towards a horizon of mountain peaks. In the foreground a red metal walkway is suspended above the mountain top. — *Just look at that walkway - the views more than make up for any vertigo!*

Song Sa Waterfall

Just after the Nam Thuen 2 Dam is a turning onto a wide gravel road. The road doesn't stay wide for long but gets much “gravely-er”. Following the waters edge the road winds around the lake before turning in and upwards to a small car park. The last approach to the car park is very rocky and gravelly and a bit steep, but nothing our small scooters couldn't handle - just take care!

The waterfall is hidden up behind some huge boulders, but unfolds up the mountain in a cascade of falling waterfalls and inviting swimming holes. This is a great place for a swim! There are many layers to the waterfall and you can clamber, wade and swim all the way up to the top. Thick green forest covers either side of the falls and it is a stunning place to relax. It is one of the most popular swim stops on the loop so it is also a good place to regroup or meet fellow loopers. However the car park is small and it wouldn’t be a great place to be stuck in a traffic jam!

There is a small shop / restaurant onsite.
Ticket price: 10,000 kip per person.

Rising tiers of pools are linked by waterfalls and giants boulders in a green valley. — *Our photos really don’t do justice to Song Sa Waterfall - you have to see it for yourself!*

Abandoned Boat Restaurant and Lake Shore

If you take a detour through the town of Nakai towards the National Park office you will come to the shore of a massive lake. Sitting next to the road on a windswept beach is a huge old wooden boat.

A brown and red wooden boat sits abandoned next to green trees on the sandy shoreline of a lake in Nakai, Laos.

It is not some tragic shipwreck but the remains of an old restaurant abandoned and left to rot. The local youth have taken it to be their new hideout, makeout spot and general selfie and tik-tok centre. The view across the lake is spectacular, you do not realise how big the area flooded by the dam is until you either look at a satellite photo or stand on the edge of the lake!

Just park where the road runs out after the National Park office. To get to the boat, just find the hole in the fence near the shoreline.
Ticket price: Free.

Mountain Roads and Amazing Views - Nakai to Thalang Village

The roads between Nakai and Thalang Village are stunning. They wind from the waters edge into the mountains, curve through incredible forests and ravines, up into what could pass for the Highlands of Scotland! This road was one of our favourites from the whole loop and we actually rode it 3 times (see our itineraries)!

The road has some sharp (fun in our mind) twists and turns and it climbs and falls steeply. The road is very well maintained for Laos with minimal pot holes and a smooth surface.

Orchid Path Viewpoint

This is an overlooked stop and easy to miss from the main road, DO NOT MISS THIS! The Orchid Path Viewpoint was probably our favourite stop on this leg of the loop!

From the main road look out for a small dirt turning. Down a short path is a small fenced in place to park your bikes. You will know you are in the right place as there is a small boarded up hut at the end of the car park.

Getting to the trail can be a little confusing but, again, it is worth it! If you are facing the hut in the car park, take the steep scramble up the hill to the right, then follow the overgrown path until you find the gap in the fence on the right. When we were here it was marked with cut logs. Push through the gap in the fence and you should find yourself on the trail.

There are not many signposts on the trail but just head right at any turning that doesn't lead downhill!

The trail climbs its way gently up the hill through bamboo, thick forests and over rocks until finally opening up into a huge rocky hillside and one of the most incredible views of the whole Thakhek Loop!

A sweeping panorama over the flooded forests, lake, islands and blue mountains ringing the horizon. It is absolutely stunning and worth the short hike!

We highly recommend Maps.me for this hike as the map shows the trail pretty accurately.

The trail took us only 15 minutes to reach the viewpoint. We did the hike in the late afternoon and the whole landscape was burning gold, with the shadow of the mountain creeping up the lake. We would not recommend doing this hike for sunset as the trail is not very clear and you could easily lose it in the dark!

Ticket price: Free

A view across the flooded valley from the top of the Orchard Path Viewpoint. In front of the viewer small green islands sit in the blue lake. In the distance, the landscape is ringed by blue mounains.

The Flooded Forests and Mountain Passes

From the mountain onwards, through Thalang Village and up until the road curves away into the valleys are the Flooded Forests. Vast lakes of water punctured by the skeletal remains of old forests. The leafless trunks stick out of the lake water and it is easy to see why the area is also called “The Ghost Forest”.

White trunks rise up out the blue waters of a lake. Towards the horizon a ring of green forest circles the lake and beyond this blue mountains fade away into the distance.

The Google location above is kind of arbitrary, there are fantastic views of the Flooded Forest on either side of the road throughout this stretch, just pull over wherever you like.

We left early in the cold morning from Thalang Village and had the whole road to ourselves. As the sun rose we were treated to the vast forests, their dead boughs crowned with white birds. It is an uncanny but magical landscape.

Ticket price: Free

The Sandstone Buddhas

You’ll know when you’ve reached the start of the carved Buddha’s when you start to see small shrines and offerings left on the side of the road. Pay attention to the cliff faces and you’ll quickly realise you’re being stared at and down on by carved images of the Buddha.

Around the corner from these smaller carvings is the famous sandstone Buddha head. A large serene image stares out across the road and down the valley, next to a reclining Buddha and many more rock carved images.

The small statues are easy to miss but can be found just before the turning with the large head. The main sculptures are impossible to miss from the road!

Ticket price: Free

A face of a Buddha is carved into a giant red brown sandstone rock on the side of a road in Laos. In front of the rock sits a small table of offerings.

Dragon Cave

Another of the loops crowning jewels, this cave sits just on the main road after the junction with the Vietnamese Border at Lak Sao. The cave is split into 3 parts.

An overhanging temple shrine sits to the right of the cave entrance through a beautiful forested garden.

The main cave is humongous and stretches deep into the mountain side. Inside the cave, take the left path over the bridge, loop round and admire the stalactites and stalagmites before climbing the metal staircase that leads up.

Follow the staircase and rocky path which will take you out of the cave, over boulders through smaller caves and eventually up to a fantastic viewpoint. At the top you’re rewarded with sweeping views across the craggy, grey-toothed mountainscape, farmers paddy fields and the winding road below.

Ticket price: 50,000 kip per person including a free bottle of water. If you’re travelling with a backpack you can store this at the ticket counter.

A winding road curves its way past golden paddy fields and green forests towards a horizon of blue limestone mountains. Photo taken from the viewpoint at the top of the Dragon Cave, Laos.

Cool Pool

A dusty road leads away from the main road and down through spectacular scenery to yet another gorgeous swimming hole. Looking for all the world like a cenote you’d find in Mexico, the Cool Pool is a crystal clear, turquoise lake surrounded by boulders and forests.

It’s a beautiful place to take a dip and there are plenty of rocks to sunbathe on surrounding the pool. There are toilets on-site and a small restaurant close to the entrance.

Ticket price: 40,000 kip per person.

Green trees and foliage surround a crystal clear, turquise pool in Laos.

The Bomb Boats Viewpoint

You can make a quick stop on the bridge over the Namkading River and catch a glimpse of some Laotian ingenuity.

Metal boats made out of old bombs and aircraft fuel tanks sit moored to the riverside.

Below on the river are some odd-shaped crafts. If you look closely you can see that these boats are made up of repurposed bomb casings and aircraft fuel tanks.

If you have time, nearby there is also the Kai Waterfalls. We didn’t get to check these out this time, so let us know what we missed in the comments. There are also plenty of restaurants in the village if you need a bite to eat!

Phra That Jedi Si Pho Xai

An optional stop on the way to Konglor Village, this pretty gold, red and green painted stupa rises up out of the flat valley floor.

You won’t need long at this colourful temple, but it’s a good place to stretch your legs after a long drive from the ‘Bomb Boats’. From here it’s just over 32 km to reach the village of Konglor (around a 45 minute drive).
Ticket price: Free.

Konglor Caves - The crowning jewel of the Thakhek Loop

This is the big one, the highlight of the whole Thakhek Loop. In fact, the other name for the Thakhek Loop is the Konglor Loop. The village of Konglor hides an incredible, subterranean secret. The river that flows up the whole valley, spills out from what looks like a gaping maw cracking through the foot of the mountain. The water is crystal clear and fast flowing, but even this impressive entrance does not prepare you for the sheer scale of the Konglor Caves.

A large cave opening sits above a turquoise river marking the entrance to the Konglor Cave system.

The only way to explore these mammoth caves is by hiring a boat and driver to navigate you through the dark waterways under the mountain. 7.5 km of river wind and carve their way through the heart of the mountain and out the other side to the village of Natane.

On the way are vast cathedrals of stone. Caverns hundreds of feet high, lit only by your head torch as you float by. A few times you’ll get off the boat and explore incredible caverns, vast and stalactite studded. There is no way for us to properly explain the scale of the Konglor Cave system. It’s like a flooded city under the mountain - serious Mines of Moria vibes.

A person wearing an orange life jacket is dwarfed by enormous stalagmites and stalactites in an enormous cave. — *The person really gives you an idea of scale!*

The halfway point of the tour sees you rocket out the darkness on the other side of the mountain at Nantane. Full of tourist shops and craft stalls you’ll have a 30 minute break here to buy drinks, food or souvenirs before getting back on your boat and re-entering the caves.

We’d also like to acknowledge the near supernatural ability of the boat pilots. In near total blackness, lit only by head torches, they weave and slalom around rapids, shallows and bends guiding the boats down and through the flooded labyrinth.

Konglor really lives up to its reputation as the jewel in the crown of the Thakhek Loop. It is an unmissable stop.

Outside the cave is a gorgeous stretch of beach lining a bend in the river that is perfect for swimming. A great way to chill out in the sunshine after your subterranean adventure.

For those looking for an alternative adventure you can actually load your bikes onto boats for a different route on your Thakhek adventure - make sure you’ve read our itineraries above for more information.

Ticket prices

200,000 kip per person this includes boat and driver as well as a headtorch. The tour takes around 2 hours including the stop at Natane. Ticket price also includes the loan of some flip flops if you come wearing trainers.

We’d recommend packing and wearing your own flip flops and expect to get a little wet!

Opening hours

The cave is listed to be open between 8am and 5pm but the tours will stop running earlier than this. To get the most out of the experience, arrive well before 3pm.

The Rock Viewpoint

Sitting at the peak of the mountains between Konglor and the main road back to Thakhek is the “Rock Viewpoint”.

This sprawling adventure park sits stradling the “Stone Forest”. An amazing geological feature of jagged, stone pillars, branches, ravines and peaks. All studded with trees clinging impossibly to the sides of the mountains.

You can do ziplines, trekking, rope walks and spider nets in the area with everything from a short walk to full day experiences available.

We opted for the ‘Stone Forest Walk’ a short 20 minute loop on raised boardwalks that takes you down through the crevices and canyons of the stone forest - we highly recommend this. We were the only ones on the walk and it was beautiful and serene especially compared to the busy ziplines above.

If we weren’t so budget conscious we definitely would have done the 2 hour ziplining session.

Ticket prices

Tickets for the ‘Stone Forest Walk’ cost 50,000 kip per person.

Tickets for the ‘Rock experiences’ are as follows:

2 hours - $30 USD
Half day - $120 USD
Full day - $180 USD

Opening hours

Open everyday from 8AM to 4PM.

A facedown perspective of the jagged peaks and sharp rocks of the "Stone Forest" near the Rock Viewpoint, Laos.

The Giant Wall

This is definitely an optional stop and lies just outside Thakhek town on the main road. The entrance is very easy to miss and in a very poor state of repair. Look out for a small sign and a small broken road leading off the main road. A short, very bumpy and very gravelly ride brings you to the Giant Wall.

As its name suggests it is literally one large rockface, however below this giant wall is what looks to be an abandoned open air church or meeting hall. Slightly overgrown pews sit facing an altar and stage, set in the shadow of the wall. It may be the time of day we visited or the oppressive atmosphere and whine of mosquitoes but it had a very unsettling vibe. It felt like we were on the set of some cult horror movie!

That all being said it’s literally 5 minutes off of the main road and we’re not sad we visited.

Ticket price: Free - If you’re planning a stop here it’s full of mosquitoes, so wear protection.

Rows of concrete seats sit facing a stone altar beneath a vertical stone cliffside in Thakhek, Laos. — *We felt it was the perfect setting for a horror movie!*

Where To Stay On The Thakhek Loop - Our Accommodation Recommendations

The Thakhek Loop is becoming increasingly popular. With a limited number of rooms available on the traditional stops, we would highly recommend either getting to your overnight stops early (like we did) or booking them in advance online. You shouldn’t be stranded anywhere, but if you leave it too late you may have to go one town over or one town backwards to find some accommodation. This is especially true of Thalang Village and Sabaidee Guesthouse. When we were there, by 6pm the place was absolutely rammed and the owner was getting out tents for the overflow.

Lots of older blogs tell you just to turn up at the guesthouses and not to book in advance. This sort of worked for us, but only because we had set off so early. For Sabaidee Guesthouse we actually drove straight there, past all the stops and viewpoints, to secure a room before doubling back to see the sights. We did not want a tent! We would say that, if you want peace of mind - book in advance. The Loop is getting busier and busier.

This caution also applies to Thakhek town itself. We definitely recommend booking your bed before and after the loop. Sometimes you may not know exactly when you’re going to return from the Loop but as soon as you do, you should book a room asap. The hostels sell out extremely quickly!

*A room with a view on the Thakhek Loop!*

Thakhek Town accommodation

KFG Guesthouse

This super budget friendly guesthouse is cheap and cheerful. Offering everything from private en-suite rooms to dorms, KFG is always super popular with backpackers setting off or arriving back from the Loop. The owners will look after your main bags whilst you're on the loop and can provide you with loads of information. They can book buses and onward travel as well as renting motorbikes.

We have stayed there twice at either end of our loop. Once in a budget private with shared bathroom and the second time in a private en-suite room. Both rooms were great with a brilliant balcony to chill out on in the evening.

Book your stay at KFG Guesthouse here.

Inthira Thakhek

We treated ourselves to 2 nights at this historic hotel. Housed inside an old colonial mansion, it’s a good deal more luxurious than we’re used to on our backpacking budget. The star of the show was our large private balcony with views out over the city shrine and down towards the river. It was a great place to hang out and treat yourself to a few beers in the evening.

If you’re looking for something a little more luxurious than a hostel, Inthira is in a great central location, has a fantastic breakfast included and super comfy beds. The hotel has a restaurant serving food and drinks all day.

Book your stay at Inthira Thakhek here.

Storing your luggage whilst riding the Loop

Wherever you choose to stay in Thakhek town, the accommodation will almost definitely be able to store your luggage whilst you do the Loop. Just check in advance if you’re worried.

Thafalang area

Thafalang Resort

Sat alongside and, for some rooms, floating on top of a river, Thafalang is a beautiful place to spend an afternoon and a night.

You can stay in either a floating room or one of the large triangular bungalows with views over the mountains. We decided to end our first day of the Loop at Thafalang and spent an afternoon swimming in the river and eating really good food at their restaurant.

Our room was one of the bungalows on land and was simple but comfy with a good shower and large verandas at both the front and back. In the morning we had a delicious included Laotian breakfast of pork rice soup delivered to our bungalow.

We couldn’t find a way to book this online so we simply rocked up and booked a room. It costs more than the accommodation usually does on the Loop but it is well worth it as a unique one night stay, plus it means you can spend the whole afternoon sipping a beer in paradise!

One night in the triangular bungalow with breakfast included, cost us 450,000 kip. The floating bungalows were much more expensive at 900,000 kip per night.

A triangular wooden bungalow sits on stilts. Behind the bungalow an enormous mountain rises up. In front of the wooden bungalow is a parked white Honda Click Scooter.

Green Climbers Home

If you’re looking for some serious adventure on the loop, Thakhek is also home to a large portion of Laos’ climbing trails. Green Climbers Home is exactly what it sounds like. A hub, meeting point and accommodation for climbers and travellers looking to scale the limestone peaks.

Private bungalows cost between $20 to $35 USD per night and dorms are $11 to $12 USD a night.

You can book online with them here.

You can of-course stay here even if you don’t intend to climb any mountains!

Thalang Village area

Sabaidee Guesthouse

Location - Please see our map - google tries to take you on a long detour around the village when you can just turn off the main road!

An institution of the Thakhek Loop, Sabaidee Guesthouse is the most popular place to stay for loopers going to or from Konglor Cave. It makes an ideal first or second day stopping location and is full of fellow bikers and backpackers.

Triangular wooden bungalows sit in a line behind a small hedgerow of flowers at the Sabaidee Guesthouse, Laos.

Offering private rooms and dorms, there’s a restaurant on-site as well as its legendary nightly bonfire and BBQ - more about this in the where to eat section.

It’s a really sociable place with everyone sitting around the fire drinking Beer Laos and swapping stories about their ride. If you’re looking to join a group for the rest of your Loop, this would be the easiest place to do so.
To make a booking, either head there early the day like us or contact them via their Facebook page - this is by far the most popular place to stay on the Loop so if you really want to stay there contact them early.

As Sabaidee Guesthouse is such a popular stop we would highly recommend getting up and leaving early in the morning. Otherwise you may find yourself riding in a traffic jam / convoy of scooters. We left about 7AM and although it was freezing cold, it was beautiful and we had the roads all to ourselves.

If Sabaidee is full, there are a couple of other places to stay in Thalang Village. Check them out here.

Konglor Area accommodation

Konglor Eco Lodge Guesthouse and Restaurant

Location - There are two locations either side of the road, we stayed on the left hand side in Konglor Eco Lodge 2.

This was our favourite place that we stayed on the whole Konglor Loop. We literally pulled up, walked into the room and instantly extended our stay.

A spacious wooden bungalow with a massive double bed, a really good hot power shower and, best of all, a beautiful balcony - The back of our room opened up to a hammock and chairs overlooking green farmers fields sitting underneath the towering mountains. It really was a special little place.

We just drove up and paid 200,000 kip per night for the room (one of the best “cheap” accommodations we’ve had), however if you want to secure your place and book in advance, you can book your stay at Konglor Eco Lodge here.
Make sure to request a room overlooking the fields!

There are loads of guesthouses, hostels and hotels to stay in Konglor Village. Check out some of the other options here.

A wooden balcony complete with a green hammock and wooden chairs sits in front of a view of fields full of green plants against a backdrop of limestone karsts.

The Rock Lodge

The Rock Lodge sits in the mountains to the north of Konglor Cave. This completely unique lodge boasts incredible “pod” rooms hanging over and looking out across the amazing mountain views and the “Stone Forest”.
It’s a little more pricey than everywhere else on this list, but we spoke with other travellers who said that it was worth the expense - they said the sunset was worth the price alone. After stopping at the Rock View Point and walking the Stone Forest Trail we can certainly agree this would be an incredible place to stay.

Book a unique stay at the Rock Lodge here.

Grey jagged peaks and green trees rise away from the viewer at the "Stone Forest" in Laos.

Where To Eat And Drink On The Thakhek Loop

Places to eat between Thakhek and Thalang Village / Saibadee Guesthouse

Thakhek to Sabaidee Guesthouse

B96’ Coffee and Tea

This small coffee shop on the side of the main road is just outside of Thakhek and makes for a perfect first stop if you want a caffeinated pick-me-up before you get to the Elephant Cave. We had fantastic espressos here after an early start from Thakhek.

Thafalang

If you’re after proper Laos style dining, along with a cold Beer Laos and a view, Thafalang is perfect. It also has the massive advantage of floating on a beautiful river that you can literally dive straight into before or after munching.
Serving Laos salads, grilled and fried fish as well as soups, laabs and fried rice and noodles, there’s something for everyone on the menu. The food here was great!

We treated ourselves to a big Laos fish feast for lunch which included a slab of sticky rice, a big deep fried fish with garlic, stir-fried cabbage and pork and a spicy green bean salad. It was a perfect lunch and a great reward for our first day's exploration on the Loop. If you just want to just have a drink and a swim you can do this but you’ll need to pay 50,000 kip to borrow one of the floating dining huts.

A huge fried fish covered in deep fried garlic and lime leaves sits on a white oval plate next to a ramekin of chilli sauce. Next to is is a black plate filled with tomatoes, green beans and cabbage.

Roadside Noodles near Pha Katai Viewpoint

If you’re looking for a no-nonsense lunch after climbing the Pha Katai Viewpoint this locals only noodle shop fits the bill. We just pulled up and ordered 2 bowls of Khao Piak (noodle soup) and were quickly presented with 2 massive steaming bowls of pork and nood-ly goodness.

Super local and super cheap and no frills - just how we like it!
Each bowl cost 35,000 kip, a true backpacking bargain.

Food between Saibadee Guesthouse and Konglor Village

Sabaidee Guesthouse BBQ

Location
Every night Sabaidee Guesthouse fires up its huge bonfire and charcoal BBQ to create a massive all you can eat BBQ feast. Meat skewers, vegetarian kebabs, trays of deep fried goodies, baked pizza and salad are laid out and descended on by the hordes of hungry backpackers. The food is simple and good, but be prepared to queue. At the end they even bring out slices of apple pie for everyone.

The BBQ is not super cheap at 150,000 kip per person but is almost compulsory as part of the Sabaidee Guesthouse experience.

If you’re not into BBQ there is a menu you can order from as well as a few other restaurants in the village.

LAKXAO Coffee and Noodles

If, like us, you had an early start from Sabaidee Guesthouse, you'll definitely be hungry by Lak Sao.

A black and orange bowl is filled with rice noodles, fried garlic, chopped spring onions and corriander all sitting in a clear soup broth. Next to the bowl is a pink basket full of lettuce, lime slices and chilli as well as a cardboard coffee cup.

You’ll have spent the morning dodging trucks and driving the windy mountain roads to the crossroads with the Vietnamese border. By the time you reach there, you’ll certainly be in the mood for some coffee and breakfast.

Lak Xao Coffee has the advantage of being one of the only coffee shops to show on Google Maps. This means it's always busy with loopers looking for a ‘Cup of Joe’.

We grabbed 2 americano’s from Lak Xao Coffee and 2 bowls of excellent noodle soup from the lovely ladies next door. The coffee was the rocket fuel we required and the noodle soups were great in the cold morning.

Konglor Village food and drink

We stayed 2 nights in Konglor Village and really enjoyed the food there. There’s plenty more than this list to choose from, but this is where we ate and drank during our stay.

Happy Bar Konglor

Every town with backpackers has one - the bar everyone descends on once the sun has gone down. Happy Bar is Konglor’s backpacker common room. Serving lots of comfort food, cold beer and coffee it was a great place to unwind after a day's ride.

Beef Noodles

Fantastic “boat noodle style” beef noodles. The best food we ate in Konglor.

On top of a white bowl sits two black chopsticks. The bowl is full of beef balls, slices of beef, chopped spring onion, corriander and white rice noodles all sitting in a rich, brown soup broth.

Cheap and generously portioned, they are open early in the morning and make a very good big breakfast if you have a long ride to do.

We ate here twice and both times it was fantastic. Piled high with melting, tender beef in a rich, aroma-filled broth. Snappy and perfectly chewy noodles, paired with peppery beef balls and John’s favourite - a spoonful of chilli oil - it was perfect!

The Best One Restaurant

Cheap, cheerful and served in a unique dining room set on bamboo walkways above the owner's garden. The restaurant serves all the SE Asian favourites in great portions. Just bear in mind the restaurant is very popular and can be a little bit slow when busy!

Konglor to Thakhek food choices

The Rock Viewpoint Cafe

If you’ve left Konglor Village in the morning and are travelling back to Thakhek you’ll definitely want to stop and admire the view at the Rock Viewpoint. See our guide above for the activities on offer here. If you’re hitting the viewpoint in the morning you’ll probably be in the mood for a cup of coffee.
The cafe has fantastic views and an extensive menu with a full range of hot and cold coffees. We ordered 2 lattes which were okay, just bear in mind you’re paying for the view.

The cafe is a lot more expensive than any of our normal roadside offerings, but again… the view.

The restaurant also serves a full range of meals from breakfast to dinner.

Lea Noodles

This is where we decided to stop on the long straight main road back to Thakhek.

On top of a wooden table sits a white ceramic bowl full of white rice noodles, sliced spring onion, sprigs of corriander, deep fried garlic and shallot and slices of crispy pork belly all sitting in a pale soup broth.

We had no particular reason for stopping here, but we are very glad we did. We ordered 2 crispy pork noodle soups and they were exactly what we needed after a long drive. Both bowls were generously topped with loads of cubes of crispy pork belly, deep fried shallots and general yumminess.

Each bowl cost 40,000 kip.

Eating on the main road to Thakhek

We chose to stop at Lea Noodle Shop in Hinboun but there were dozens of places to eat in every village and town all along the main road. Just stop whenever you’re hungry!

Hiring A Scooter Or Motorbike For The Thakhek Loop

You’ll obviously be starting the Thakhek Loop in the town of … Thakhek! This is the easiest place to rent and return a motorbike or scooter to. There are 4 main places in town to rent bikes from:

Mixay Thakhek Motor Rental - located here

Pokemon Go Motor Rental - located here

Wang Wang - located here

Mad Monkey Motorcycle (not affiliated with the hostel chain!) - located here

We used and would highly recommend Mixay Thakhek Motor Rental. We wanted peace of mind and to know that we were renting quality, new scooters. We paid the extra to rent 2 brand new Honda Clicks. These were more expensive than the normal offerings from other places, but they were perfect. Powerful enough for all the hills, fuel efficient, great brakes - they just never put a foot wrong! Mixay was brilliant. We reserved our bikes a day in advance and picked them up early in the morning with no hassle despite the queues. On the Loop, we were in contact with them via WhatsApp and extended our rental remotely twice with no issues and they even packed us snacks and water when we set off!

3 white Honda Click scooters and a blue Honda Wave sit parked in a line on the concrete pavement beneath a map of the Thakhek Loop outside the Mixay Motorbike Rental shop.

You can spend an awful lot less than we did on your bike rental but the bike you get may be very old! Trust us when we say, you don’t want to spend your time on the Thakhek Loop wheeling your bike to a garage or worrying that it may break down.

All the motorbike rentals in town will give you information about the loop, maps etc and can store your bags if necessary.

Police Checks on the Loop

One of the things we had read about and was worrying us before we set off, were police checkpoints in Thakhek. We read there were certain routes out of town you shouldn’t take and that generally there may be an issue with police stopping foreigners and fining them. These worries, for us at least, were completely unfounded. When we asked the lady at Mixay if we needed to be careful about the police she just laughed at us and said “nothing to worry about at all”.

The only explanation we could find about these rumours is that there is a traffic light just outside the police station that foreigners routinely wait for in the wrong road position leading to a fine.Throughout the whole of the Loop there were several police checkpoints and none of them showed the slightest interest in stopping us or any other looper.

This is of-course anecdotal evidence but we were worried about this before we set off so thought we’d reassure you!

Scooter rental prices

Rental prices did not seem to vary much across town and are set according to what bike you want to rent. You could spend as little as a 100,000 kip per day on an ancient 100cc semi-automatic or be like us, and rent brand new shiny 125 automatics at 240,000 kip. You will be responsible for upkeep, petrol and tyres on the loop so any mishaps will come out of your pocket. Again we recommend removing the worry and paying the extra for a bike in good condition.

Some of the rental places will also offer bigger, fully manual motorcycles or even cars and trucks, these will obviously be more expensive!

All rental prices will include a helmet! Be picky about the helmet, it should be comfortable as you will be wearing it for the next few days!

A black and white Honda Click sits parked on a roadside in front of a panoramic view. — *It really is worth renting a good scooter - you don’t want to be wasting time at a garage!*

Deposits when renting a scooter

This is a sticky subject and one that is very fiercely debated online. There are plenty of people who will say that under no circumstances should you leave your passport with a rental agency. However, it is the norm to leave your passport on the Thakhek Loop.

Go with a reputable rental agency and there should be no issues at all provided you return the bike in the condition you borrowed it. The only alternative is to leave a huge amount of money as a deposit.

Just remember to video and photograph your scooter thoroughly when you pick it up - a good rental agency will ask you to do this. Note any scratches or damage to the scooter and you’ll be fine.

Mixay was great, before they even handed us the keys they asked us to go round and film our bike. They also did the same. We left a single passport for both bikes and it was handed back with no fuss after an inspection of both bikes at the end of the trip.

The Thakhek Loop is getting popular, especially during the peak, dry season. Make sure you arrange your motorbike hire in advance. When we were collecting our bikes at 7am in the morning there was a large queue and a lot of annoyed people who were finding they could not rent a bike from anywhere in town that day!

Automatic or Semi-Automatic, which motorbike to hire?

You can ride the Thakhek Loop on any kind of motorbike or scooter. Ignore anyone who tells you that you have to ride a semi-auto. Most loopers are on fully automatic bikes and they get up and down the hills just fine!

We would however recommend getting 125cc over the smaller bikes as they are much easier to manoeuvre and far more comfortable to drive on the larger roads. Honda Clicks are perfect, Honda Zoomers are less suited to long drives!

If you have a passenger, are heavier built or really suck at packing light, then make sure you get a bike that can handle the load. We saw a couple of little 50cc bikes on the Loop that were straining under their passengers!

If you like the feel of semi-auto’s, they are generally cheaper to rent, but they also tend to be 100cc rather than the 125cc of the autos.

A black and white Honda Click sits parked on the roadside beneath towering grey mountains in Laos. — *Honda Clicks really can go anywhere!*

Petrol and garages on the Loop

There is no shortage of places to fill up on the loop. As a rule we never let the tanks get below one quarter full. If you follow our lead you won’t run out of gas!

Petrol is cheap in Laos, around 60,000 - 75,000 kip for a full tank in a 125 Honda Click.

In a pinch, look out for local shops selling petrol from plastic bottles. You will be able to see orange colored two litre bottles for sale everywhere!

We would always recommend keeping a mental note whenever you pass by a bike mechanic, there is one or more in every town and you never know when you may get a flat tyre. We were lucky on the Thakhek Loop but when we rode the Bolaven Plateau, Ellie needed a whole new tyre, this only cost 30 minutes and 450,000 kip!

Road Conditions - What To Expect Driving The Thakhek Loop

Laotian roads are, in general, an assault course. Potholes, gravel, unexpected cows and dogs sunbathing, the roads have a hundred hazards to watch out for. Thankfully the main roads of the Thakhek Loop were actually in pretty good condition! That is not to say there were no potholes (or mischievous goats) but they were in much better condition than we had been warned about. The main hazard was other road users, both inexperienced loopers and the large lorries charging to and from the border.

We have split the roads into sections so you can see what the conditions are like for each part of the Loop.

Thakhek to Thalang Village / Sabaidee Guesthouse

The roads out of Thakhek were quiet in the morning, there was a little construction work on the edge of town but nothing bad. Most of the caves, Thafalang and the “mini loops” are down local, gravel or dirt roads, but the surfaces were firm and not difficult to drive on.

The traffic and trucks got more and more frequent as we travelled down Road 12. The trucks got worse and worse until we reached Gnommalat and the junction to the Vietnamese border.

The trucks were basically road trains, huge thundering beasts with massive fully laden trailers attached. They always have the right of way! They also, unfortunately, had a penchant for overtaking each other on blind corners so beware! This was probably the busiest stretch of road we experienced on the whole Loop. The traffic was definitely made worse as we were travelling just after the cassava harvest. Every village and farm was having their produce picked up and shipped in huge open-topped lorries.

After Gnommalat the traffic was light to non-existent all the way to our overnight stay at Sabaidee Guesthouse. The mountain roads on this route were also some of the most stunning and fun to drive of the whole trip - We drove them 3 times as they were so epic!

The Song Sa Waterfall is down a long loose surfaced gravel and dirt path. It was definitely the “worst” road of the day and has a bumpy steep section near the final carpark. Not something to worry about but something to be aware of.

A sandy, gravel road leads towards a mountain peak in the horizon.

Thalang Village to Konglor Cave

We set off early in the morning (ok 7 o'clock so not that early!) and had the roads through the Flooded Forest and National Park all to ourselves. The roads were good with only a few potholes and random dogs. As the morning wore on the traffic increased with a few more trucks and other people on the roads. As we approached the border crossroads at Lak Sao we were joined, overtaken or passed by more and more trucks but, just like the previous day, as soon as the border was behind us, so was the traffic.

The Dragon Cave sits on the main loop road so was no issue to get to. The next stretch of the road winds its way around beautiful mountains, but was also the section where we saw two accidents. One happened just in front of us where a pod of loopers took a corner and came off on a pothole (everyone was fine) and the other a car on its roof. We have absolutely no idea how it got itself in that situation. Just be careful! The Cool Pool was set a little distance down a gravel road. Not an issue if you are confident, if you are less experienced just take it slow and easy!

The road between the Cool Pool and Na Hin (the turning off point for Konglor Caves) is currently infamous due to a huge road construction project in the mountains. We were dreading this section. We had heard that the road would close for large portions of the day and when it reopened it would be a melee of cars, bikes and trucks travelling through a debris filled construction site! This was all a huge exaggeration. The road surface was loose and unfinished but we cruised through the whole construction area with no issues. We did get lucky and arrived during a break in the work but it was nowhere near as bad as the horror stories had suggested. The construction work is meant to be completed by May 2025. It is also worth pointing out that the views from this section of the road were amazing!

A grey tarmac road is lined by eletricity pylons. On the horizon, blue mountains ring the landscape. — *The majority of the roads on the Thakhek Loop are well tarmacked!*

At the town of Na Hin the road splits and we left the main road to go down to Konglor. This stretch of road is very long, very straight and very unique. We had come down from the mountain and were now in a vast valley, a huge flat plain sandwiched between massive peaks. It wasn’t “fun” like the twisty mountain roads, but had something of an “American road trip” vibe to it - just with added water buffalo and rice paddies. There were a few more potholes and the road gets dustier and gravelly-er as you approach Konglor.

There are also a few wooden bridges to drive over. They look scary as there is a small set of flat planks to drive over, but once you are on the bridges, they are no problem at all!

The only “issue” with the roads on this stretch is the local livestock - cows, water buffalo, dogs, chickens, goats you name it they’re all free-ranging wherever they fancy! At one point Ellie’s journey was rudely interrupted by 3 goats. The goats had, somehow, managed to get stuck in, then uproot a whole section of fence. Displaying an amazing lack of teamwork the goats proceeded to block the whole road in a spiralling, bleating mess of hooves and fence-wire. Laos’ roads always keep you on your toes, but also entertained!

Konglor to Thakhek - The main road day

Leaving Konglor you have an epic drive back to Na Hin, up a winding mountain road to the Rock Viewpoint and down the other side. The roads are good but there are quite a few potholes on the corners in the mountains.

We were dreading the long slog on the main road back to Thakhek but it turned out to be completely fine. It is a long, straight, wide road so all the traffic has plenty of time and space to pass you by safely. The only issue we had on this stretch was when John was overtaken by a cassava lorry and had to spend 20 minutes being peppered by loose shards of vegetable!

This section may have been a lot more miserable on a lower powered bike. Our swanky new Honda Clicks could comfortably cruise at motorway speeds all day, but if you were on a little Zoomer or lower powered bike it might be uncomfortable.

As you get closer to Thakhek and the Laos / Thai Friendship Bridge the traffic gets heavier and heavier until you’re in full “city traffic”. We had avoided the Thakhek traffic on the way out as we had set out in the early morning but coming in the afternoon it was certainly a busy city.

Safety - How Dangerous Is The Thakhek Loop?

Accidents happen everywhere and, when you put a lot of inexperienced riders on mountain roads, gravel tracks and dirt paths, you can expect there to be more than a few mishaps. The Thakhek Loop is only as dangerous as you make it. The Loop is predominantly on maintained, paved roads and as long as you drive sensibly and don’t exceed your confidence or skill limits you will be absolutely fine.

There have been deaths reported on the Thakhek Loop but these, thankfully, appear to be very uncommon. We saw 2 accidents (neither serious for those involved) on our ride of the Loop: One was a preventable scooter slip on a potholed bend in the road (do not ride in packs if you are in a group!) and another was a local car that had somehow come unstuck. In both cases everyone was fine.

The Loop is not some closed track for tourists to enjoy, neither is it some extreme test of endurance and skills, it is a road, a paved way for getting people around! Treat it like you would any road and you should be fine!

That all being said there are a couple of pointers it is worth thinking about. We are in no way motorbiking or safety experts, but here is our list of common sense tips tempered by our experiences on the road:

Laos drives on the right hand side of the road.
Don't be an idiot! Do not treat the real life roads of Laos as a race track. You will be driving along the main roads linking Laos to Vietnam. The large lorries travel at 80 kmph, and cannot stop on short notice.
Remember that out here “might is right” the big lorries have right of way and may not even notice you on your tiny scooter.
Use your mirrors all the time!
Check your tyres every time you set off.
Test the brakes before you hire the bike. Make sure you’re happy and familiar with how it handles.
If you are asked to padlock your bike by the rental company - do it.
Insist on a proper, well fitted helmet and wear the helmet at all times.
If you are riding in a group do not ride side to side! Single file lets others see and pass you. You don’t want a truck to turn a blind corner and suddenly find your phalanx of scooters taking up the width of the road.
Do not take on more than you are capable or comfortable with - this is Laos, you do not want to be in a serious accident. Some of the attractions on the loop are down gravel or mud track roads. There is no shame in bowing out if you are not comfortable driving somewhere. You can always park up and walk.
Take hills and curves carefully, you never know what's on the other side of a corner.
We've mentioned it above in the road conditions, but Laos is full of potholes, dogs, children and sudden chickens. Keep your wits about you!
The majority of travel insurance will not cover you to ride a scooter if you’re not qualified to do so in your home country.

*Animals are a constant hazard on the Loop - watch out for buffalo, chickens, dogs, cats and goats on the road!*

Riding The Thakhek Loop As A Group / Riding Solo

Whether you want to ride the loop as a larger group, just as a couple or even go it alone, is all down to personal taste. We just rode as a couple, without anyone else. As a couple we could always look out for each other. John was used to riding slightly faster but we arranged it so that we would always check on the other (visually or with a stop) every so often. On the longer drives we would have designated stop points where we could wait for each other. We loved doing it this way as we could always stop whenever or wherever we wanted and could get back on the road again quickly. There is nothing wrong with riding in a group but they can take forever to get going. On one occasion, we had the whole of our lunch and coffees whilst an 8 strong group tried to get ready to leave!

Adventures of Jellie pose for a Go Pro selfie whilst both wearing black t-shirts. Behind them the mountainside drops down to the flooded forest and lakes outside of Nakai, Laos.

We wouldn’t necessarily recommend solo riding but at the same time wouldn't write it off. We felt very secure knowing that we had one another if anything went wrong. If you are solo, you would be very alone if there was an accident or your bike broke down. However, it would be a fantastic adventure to drive the Thakhek Loop by yourself! If you stop at Sabaidee Guesthouse you won’t be alone for very long anyway, it is bursting with other travellers on the Loop, all gathered around the bonfire swapping stories.

Groups are definitely the most common way to ride on the Loop, it is an amazing experience to share with friends and a great way for the less confident traveller to push themselves into seeing areas of Laos they may not otherwise have gone to. If you are travelling in a group just remember the following:

Travel as fast as your slowest and least confident member. It would be horrible to be left behind by your friends if you were already nervous.

As mentioned in the safety section, do not travel as a pack or side by side. You should always drive in single file and keep your distance between riders in front and behind. You want to make sure you have enough room to brake when a chicken darts in front of you!
Remember you will get a little split up from time to time; a few of you will be able to overtake the slow farm cart but, the larger your group, the more split up it will become. Set points on your route to wait for each other.
As a group you have more negotiating power than solo or couple travellers and may be able to agree better rates for rooms. On the flip side you may want to bite the bullet and book your rooms in advance if you all want to stay together. It is more expensive but stops you finding out that there aren’t enough beds!

What To Pack For The Thakhek Loop

You’ll want to pack as light as you can, ideally one small backpack per person. Remember that at the stops you’ll probably be taking your bag with you. Make sure you are happy with the bag on your back not just when you’re sitting on a bike but when climbing up a viewpoint.

These are our packing essentials for the Thakhek Loop:

Thakhek Loop Packing List

Pack light!
Bring layers. It is COLD in the mornings up in the mountains and on the reservoir. Not freezing but it feels that way when you are driving at speed on a scooter! We wore light trousers and a hoodie and it was not quite enough. It would have been better to bring a lightweight windbreaker or some kind of long sleeve under-layer.
Pack a wet coat - you don’t want to be soggy on a bike!
Swimwear / towel
Scarf / snood - helpful for the dust as well as the early morning chills. You may want to bring a face mask if you’re sensitive to dust / fumes.
Flip-flops - great at the end of the day to give your shoes a breather. Also you’ll need them for Konglor Cave
Trainers / closed toe shoes - no one wants road rash on their toes!
Sunscreen - do not skimp on this. Your face, hands, arms and legs are going to be out in the scorching Laotian sun from morning to evening. If you ride visor-up with sunglasses like we did, you will feel sandblasted by the wind and dust by the end of the day.
Sunglasses - do not ride a scooter without good sunglasses or a good visor down. John was hit in the glasses by a dragonfly at 70 kmph and thought he had been shot! Also, fun fact, dragonflies are very juicy when they explode.
Water and snacks - you never know when you might get snacky!
Lanyard for your phone - this was useful for photos as well as directions.
Download Maps.me, Google Maps, translation apps and set them all up for offline use.

A white Honda Click sits parked in a green field next to a packed, black Salkan backpack. Behind the bike limestone mountains rise up. — *We packed everything we needed in our two trusty Salkan daypacks!*

ATMS - Cash On The Loop

As with the whole of Laos cash is king on the Loop. Where places do accept cards, they will charge at least 3% extra.

We took out cash in Thakhek beforehand and in the town of Nakhai, just before Sabaidee Guesthouse. There are also ATMS in the bigger towns of Lak Sao and Na Hin but none in Konglor or Thalang Village - plan and withdraw accordingly.

When To Ride The Loop - Weather In Southern Laos

The Thakhek Loop is definitely best enjoyed in the dry season. Lots of the side roads and attractions would be very unpleasant to drive to in the mud and rain of the wet season.

Laos’ dry season runs from October to April with the wet season starting in May.

If you do attempt the Loop in the wet season, let us know how it goes. We’ve only driven it once and it was perfect hot, sunny weather every day so it would be interesting to hear how it is in different conditions.

Alternatives To Riding The Loop - What To Do If You Cannot Ride A Scooter

If you’re interested in the Thakhek Loop but don’t want to or can’t ride a bike / scooter there are some options where you can still get to see the incredible sights:

You can join a group as a passenger, lots of people ride the Loop on the back of someone else’s bike. Ask at hostels or post online.
If you want to have a local drive you around on the back of a bike, Mad Monkey Rental offer “Easy Rider” tours and most tourist offices could arrange one.
You can take a bus from Thakhek to Konglor Cave or the cave strewn area around the Green Climbers Home.
Your can do the Thakhek Loop by car! Cars are available for rent from Thakhek Town. Renting a car is obviously more expensive but makes sense if you have a group of friends who don't want to ride bikes. We saw several groups doing the Loop this way. KFG Guesthouse has information on renting cars as did most of the bike rental agencies.
You can do an organised tour of the Thakhek Loop or any of its major attractions. Check at any hotel, hostel or guesthouse and they will be able to work out a tour itinerary for you or join you up with an existing tour.

A view over golden fields towards a wooden hut topped with a blue roof. In the background grey mountains rise up to the skyline in Konglor Village.

Thakhek Or Pakse / Bolaven Loop - Which Is Better?

There is no way to really answer this question. The Loops are completely different in character, length and attractions. We would say the Thakhek Loop has more fun driving and generally (although not always) better views from the road. However, the waterfalls and scenery of the Pakse / Bolaven Loop are amazing. The Bolaven Loop is shorter and much flatter so it is easier to drive for those lacking confidence, but the twisting mountain roads of the Thakhek Loop are one of the most amazing parts!

Ultimately we cop-out with our answer - do both! We did and we loved it. Doing the two scooter-borne loops has whetted out appetite and made us start looking for more bike-based adventures!

Also, watch this space as we will be posting our complete guide to the Bolaven Loop soon!

Final Thoughts - Was The Thakhek Loop Worth it?

Without exaggeration, the Thakhek Loop was one of our favourite experiences in our 3+ year backpacking adventure! It had everything. Incredible landscapes, amazing caves, fantastic cheap accommodation and above all, it had the adventure, freedom and thrill of the open road. Hiring a little scooter and just setting off into the mountains of Laos is an experience we’ll never forget.

So much travel and especially modern “backpacking” is a curated, guided and pampered affair. The Thakhek Loop really felt different - it was the excitement and anxiety of actual freedom.

Go make your own adventure!

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

Ellie stands facing away from the camera wearing black trousers, t-shirt and backpack whilst with holding her helmet in her hands. In front of her the dusty golden road heads towards a backdrop of towering limestone mountains.

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For all of our Laos adventures check out our articles below:

Laos: Tips Tricks and Travel Guides.

Wat Phou and Champasak - The Ancient Khmer Ruins of Laos

The Bolaven Plateau - A Guide to Riding the Pakse Loop

What To Do In Savannakhet - A Complete Guide

Thakhek Town - The Complete Guide

24 Hours in Vientiane, Laos - A Quick Guide to the Capital

The quiet capital of Laos is often overlooked by backpackers and travellers but there is so much more to it than meets the eye. Read our guide to get the most out of your time in Vientiane. From the massive mystical sculptures of the Buddha Park to the riverside markets and cute cafes, Vientiane has something to offer any kind of traveller. Our guide covers everything you need to know, from booking tickets on the high speed railway to flights, buses and our favourite hotel and accommodation recommendations.

Floating Above Laos - A Hot Air Balloon Ride in Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng is known as one of the cheapest places in the world to take a ride on a hot air balloon, but is it still worth it on a backpackers budget? Read all about our flight above the limestone karsts and blue lagoons of Vang Vieng Laos. Our complete guide has all of the practical information on operators, prices, booking and what to wear as well as answering common questions and worries about ballooning: Sunrise or sunset flights? Is it Scary?

Vang Vieng is an essential stop on any Laotian itinerary, but what should you eat after a day out tubing? Where can you find the best coffee? Where is a good spot for a sunset beer? Read our guide for all our recommendations on the best places to eat and drink in the backpacker capital of Laos.

Vang Vieng is the backpacking capital of Laos. With budget friendly hostels, a lively bar scene and plenty of things to do, Vang Vieng is an essential stop on any Laos itinerary. Read our backpackers guide on what there is to do. From the famous ‘Tipsy Tubing’, swimming in the turquoise waters of the Blue Lagoons to climbing viewpoints or even taking a flight, our travel guide covers everything!

Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars is Laos' most enigmatic ancient site. No one is sure of why it was made, what it was used for or even how large the site is. Read our complete guide to visiting the Plain of Jars as well as our travel tips for the neighbouring city of Phonsavan. Including how to get there by bus, the best hostels, hotels and accommodation and what to do, eat and drink in the town.

Vieng Xai is not on the normal tourist trail of Laos. Read our guide for why you should visit this cave riddled, history rich and overall beautiful area of Laos! From hikes to enormous waterfalls, the famous “Victory Caves” to unexpectedly delicious Indian food, there is so much to see and do. Vieng Xai is a place few travellers have heard of but is 100% worth your time!

If you are looking for a less travelled route through Northern Laos, you have come to the right place. Read our guide and story of the journey between the mountain backpacker town of Nong Khiaw and Sam Neua and finally the caves of Vieng Xai. The journey is not for the faint of heart!

Muang Ngoi - A Hidden Riverside Treasure In Northern Laos

Sitting on the banks of the Nam Ou River, Muang Ngoi is a perfect riverside escape in Northern Laos! Read our ultimate travel guide for everything you need to know about visiting from how to get there, what guesthouse to stay at and what to do.

The Tad Mok Waterfalls are a perfect day trip from Nong Khiaw or Muang Ngoy. Accessible via a short boat journey and a hike across beautiful paddy fields, the Tad Mok Waterfalls make for an adventure filled expedition! Read our guide for all the information you need for visiting these incredible falls, from how to get there, ticket prices and what to wear.

The 100 Waterfalls Trek - A Day Out Hiking From Nong Khiaw

The 100 Waterfalls Trek is an easy one day hike from the Northern Laotian town of Nong Khiaw. Follow our day as we trek up the waterfalls (was there 100 of them?) and find out all the essential information for trekking to the falls. From the costs to whether you should go alone, our blog covers everything.

Come with us as we explore a lesser known side to Luang Prabang. On the other side of the Mekong River we find a string of beautiful temples leading along the river to a secret, overgrown hilltop shrine. Escape the busy streets of Luang Prabang and discover this off the beaten path adventure!

Everyone loves a sunset and the Laotian city of Luang Prabang, on the banks of the Mekong, has some amazing fiery displays. Read our blog to find out our favourite sunset spots in the city. Including riverside bars, secret temple spots and sunset cruises!

If you are visiting Luang Prabang in Northern Laos then the Kuang Si Waterfall is an essential trip. Known as some of the most beautiful in the World, the breathtaking waterfalls are amazing in both the wet and dry seasons. Read our complete guide for all the information you will need for visiting Kuang Si Falls.

Sometimes you just need a great coffee. The Laotian city of Luang Prabang is full of craft coffee shops, roasters and artisan cafes. Join us on a cafe hopping guide to the very best coffee in Luang Prabang.

Food in Luang Prabang - A Guide to the Best Places to Eat

Luang Prabang is full of amazing food. From the delicious street food of the night market to the amazing breakfasts and local restaurants, we have tried it all. Check out our guide to the best food in Luang Prabang.

Our ultimate travel guide to Luang Prabang. After spending over a month in the beautiful Northern Laos city of Luang Prabang we share the best things to do and see. From where to stay (backpacker or luxury budgets), to guides to the most unmissable sights, our guide covers everything.

Come with us as we take you out on a delicious evening dining on a Laotian barbecue feast. We grill, boil, simmer and saute our way through a tasty traditional barbecue in the Northern Laotian town of Nong Khiaw. If you’re curious or epi-curious don’t miss out on this brilliant barbecue!

Thailand to Laos - The Bangkok to Vientiane Express Train

Come with us as we travel between Bangkok Thailand and Luang Prabang Laos. We catch the budget friendly, overnight express train from Bangkok to Vientiane before transferring to the Laos China high speed railway to Luang Prabang. Read our guide to find out which ticket to buy, ticket prices, train facilities and what to expect at the Nong Khai border.

Laotian Luxury in Luang Prabang

Sometime you need a bit of luxury in your life. Luckily the UNESCO World Heritage city of Luang Prabang has plenty to offer for those seeking something sumptuous. Follow us as we depart from our regular budget backpacking and indulge in the high end staying at a fantastic hotel and eating at the bougiest of bistros.

Nong Khiaw - The Complete Guide

Nong Khiaw in northern Laos is a backpacker haven full of beautiful hiking trails, amazing viewpoints and great kayaking on the Nam Ou river. Read our complete guide to this incredible town. Find out: What to do, where to eat and where to have some fun drinks!

Pakbeng - What To Do If You’ve Missed Your Slow Boat?

The town of Pakbeng marks the midpoint of the world famous Laotian slow boat route. Lying between the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang and the border town of Huay Xai, most travellers only stop here for the night. But what if you stayed longer? What is there to do in Pakbeng? Where is there to stay? What is there to eat? Read our blog for the complete guide to Pakbeng.

A bucket list item for travellers, the slow boats on the Laotian Mekong run between the UNESCO world heritage city of Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, the border town between Laos and Thailand. We took two very different cruises up the river, the luxury Shompoo Cruise between Luang Prabang and Pakbeng and the local slow boat between Pakbeng and Huay Xai. Read on for our experiences on this incredible stretch of river!

If you’re found this blog helpful, entertaining or you just fancy supporting us, please click the button below!

Adventures Of Jellie 18/02/2025 Adventures Of Jellie 18/02/2025

24 Hours in Vientiane, Laos - A Quick Guide to the Capital

Clinging to the banks of the Mekong River sits the Laotian capital of Vientiane. This sleepy, laidback city is stuffed full of beautiful temples, amazing riverside views and bustling night markets. A world away from its megacity neighbours of Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City, Vientiane still retains a small town feel, full of Laotian charm, tree-lined streets and a mix of traditional Laos and French Colonial architecture.

For many travellers, the Laos capital is often overlooked, merely a transfer point to switch between buses, hop on the high-speed rail or to catch a flight elsewhere, but if you can, Vientiane deserves a stop, at least for a night or two. The city has plenty to keep you occupied and once you’re done with sightseeing, there’s no shortage of coffee shops, bars, restaurants and street food to try!

This is our guide on what there is to do and how to fill your time even if you only have 24 hours in Vientiane.

In this Vientiane travel guide:

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

A top down view over the four manicured grass lawns which surround a circular fountain at the Patuxai Victory Monument in Vientiane. Behind the park a car-park is full of mini vans, coaches and tourists.

Where is Vientiane?

Vientiane is located in northern Laos and can be found on a map here.

The city is located around a 2 hour (130 KM) drive south of Vang Vieng, a 7 hour (310 KM) drive south of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Luang Prabang and a 6 hour (330 KM) drive north of Thakhek. These travel times can be cut down massively by using the new high speed rail line - more on this later.

Despite being the capital of Laos, the city of Vientiane feels very small and easily walkable. For attractions a little further away from your accommodation you can easily hail a tuk tuk / songthaew off the streets or request a ride with the LOCA taxi app.

To use the LOCA ride-hailing app you will need a Laotian SIM card. To save yourself the hassle of arranging a SIM card when you touch down in Laos, we’d recommend checking out an e-SIM. We’ve arranged a Laotian SIM card with Airalo in advance on both our two most recent trips and they’ve saved us so much time and hassle. When we crossed the border from Thailand we were immediately able to hail a taxi to transfer us from the border to the high-speed railway using the LOCA app.

Check out all the Laotian e-SIMS available on Airalo here.

A square stone stupa is carved with Laotian style Buddhist carvings. The spire of the stupa is painted in blue and gold and has four Buddhist heads carved into the bottom. Behind the stupa the city of Vientiane stretches out to the horizon.

How to get to Vientiane?

Vientiane by Bus

The cheapest and most budget friendly way to reach Vientiane will be by bus.

Bus routes across the whole of Laos serve the capital, so wherever you may be, you’ll never struggle to get to Vientiane by bus. The most popular bus routes for travellers heading to Vientiane are:

Vang Vieng to Vientiane
Thakhek to Vientiane

If you’re travelling to Vientiane from the north, buses will drop you off at Vientiane’s Northern Bus Terminal (location) or if you’re travelling to Vientiane from Southern Laos, buses will drop you off at Vientiane’s Southern Bus Terminal (location).

For those who have booked your bus tickets through a tour agency, check whether your ticket includes a drop off to your accommodation. We booked a bus from Vang Vieng and it dropped us straight off at our hotel.

Bus tickets can be booked at bus stations or through tour agencies. Or if you’d prefer to have everything booked in advance, we’d recommend booking tickets with 12Go.

If you are booking bus tickets, as with all bus journeys in Laos, expect any ride to be stuffed to the rafters with people, produce and luggage. Prepare for a bumpy ride!

Vientiane by train

The Laos / China high speed railway line connects Vientiane with Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Luang Namtha and onto the border with China. Train journeys on this new modern line are super speedy, with the journey time from Vang Vieng being only one hour and the previously 8 hour journey to Luang Prabang only taking two hours!

We’ve ridden the rails and can confirm it's a super comfy, super modern and super speedy way to travel in Laos. In what felt like a blink of an eye we were suddenly arriving at our destination.

Tickets for the train can only be booked 3 days in advance, so we’d recommend booking your tickets online via 12Go who can pre-purchase the tickets for you.

If you’re planning to head to Vientiane by train, you will arrive at Vientiane’s Railway Station (location) in the north of the city.

Vientiane by flight

Wattay International Airport (location) sits around 5 KM east from central Vientiane.

If you’re planning to travel by air whilst in Laos, you can catch an internal flight to Vientiane from Luang Prabang, Pakse, Sam Neua or Savannakhet.

For those travelling internationally, there are flights to Vientiane from Bangkok Thailand, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam, Phnom Penh Cambodia and more.

From the airport you can catch the airport bus which takes a circular route to and from the airport with a stop at Vientiane’s Central Bus Station (location) marking the halfway point of the route. Tickets for the airport bus cost 40,000 kip per person. If you’d prefer a taxi transfer, taxi fares from the airport to the centre of the city start at 150,000 kip.

To book a taxi transfer from the airport to the city, click here.

What to do in Vientiane?

Even if you only have 24 hours in Vientiane, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. Here’s just some ideas on how you could fill your time.

Patuxai Victory Monument

(Location)

Built in the style of the famous Arch De Triomph of Paris but with a Laotian twist, the Patuxai Victory Monument (also known as Patuxay) sits towering over a huge square, fountain and green lawns.

This enormous stone monument has four archways on all sides of its base. On top of the arches, four towers sit guarding the corners of the monument, each surrounding a slightly taller tower that crowns the centre. The monument’s arches and towers are decorated with intricate carvings, showing Buddhist figures. Inside, underneath the archway the whole ceiling has been painted in blue and gold with more Buddhist imagery and Hindu deities.

The stone Patuxai Victory Monument rises up behind a circular fountain. In front of the fountain rows of stone benches line the footpath.

The Patuxai Victory Monument was built in 1968, and serves as a war memorial to commemorate the Laotians who lost their lives during World War 2 and the fight for independence against the colonial French. The word Patuxai in Laotian can be translated as ‘victory gate’.

The monument is sometimes referred to as the ‘Vertical Runway' a nickname donned by locals thanks to the history of the monuments construction. In the late 1950s, America donated Laos money to build a new airport. This all sounds lovely, but unfortunately for the American’s no formal agreement was ever signed and so the Laos authorities decided to use the money to build the Patuxai Victory Monument instead! To learn more, check out this Atlas Obscura article.

You can walk around or underneath the Patuxai monument for free, but we'd say it's worth paying the extra 30,000 kip entrance fee to climb to the top.

The view from the top is not quite the Champs D’Elysee but gives a sweeping panorama over the city's rooftops, glinting temples and tree-lined streets. There is also a small museum inside as you head up.

A new addition to the monument since our first first visit is the daily fountain and light show that takes place at 6PM. We've not had the pleasure of viewing this dancing ourselves, but let us know in the comments if you have!

Entry fee to Patuxai Victory Monument:

Free, but tickets cost 30,000 kip per person to head to the viewpoint on top.

Opening times:

Open everyday from 8.30 AM until 5 PM.

The ceiling of the Patuxai Victory Monument is painted in red, blue and gold. Carved and painted are Buddhist figures, Hindu deities, a 3 headed elephant and other dancing figures.

Pha That Luang Stupa and Temple

Pha That Luang is a big stone square stupa painted in shimmering gold sitting in the centre of a walled courtyard surrounded by temples and shrines. At the base of the stupa sit a collection of mini stupas that completely enclose the main central chedi that rises up over the red and gold rooftops of the surrounding temples.

Inside the temple buildings you’ll see Buddhist paintings, wooden carvings and different statues of the Buddha.

Pha That Luang is an incredibly peaceful place and we spent a good while exploring the temples and watching as locals and devotees leave offerings. Before you leave, don't miss seeing the big, reclined golden Buddha statue.

Pha That Luang is only a 5 minute drive or 30 minute walk away from Patuxai Victory Monument, meaning that both attractions can easily be combined in a morning or afternoon.

Outside the temple grounds there are plenty of stalls selling snacks, soft drinks and temple offerings.

As it’s a hugely important religious site, please dress respectfully. Shoulders and knees need to be covered. Upon entry, you may be asked to borrow a sarong at 5000 kip rental fee - if you are a lady you may be asked to wear the sarong even if you are wearing trousers.

Entry fee to Pha That Luang:

Tickets cost 30,000 kip per person.

Opening times:

Open everyday from 8 AM until 5 PM. During religious festivals the temple will be very busy with locals.

COPE Visitors Centre

Whenever you research the country of Laos, almost always the first thing you’ll learn is that despite never being at war, Laos is the most bombed country on earth. During the ‘Secret War’ it is estimated that over 9 years, the US dropped the equivalent of over 2 million tonnes of ordnance over Laos. This is equal to a plane load of bombs being dropped over the country every 8 minutes for 24 hours a day, every day over this 9 year period.

Unfortunately the effects of this secret bombing campaign are still being felt today with hundreds and hundred of Laotians being killed, injured or maimed by the explosives hidden deep in the earth.

The COPE Visitor Centre sits adjacent to Centre for Medical Rehabilitation and helps visitors to understand the history, the on-going impact UXO (unexploded ordnance) has on Laos and how COPE and other organisations are helping to rehabilitate and educate those impacted by the bomb.

Inside the COPE Visitor Centre you’ll find sculptures made up of prosthetic legs, curtains of cluster bombs hanging from the ceiling and first hand accounts of the on-going impacts UXO has on Laos all these decades later.

Cluster bombs hang in a curtain in the COPE Visitor Centre of Vientiane.

Prosthetic legs made up of plastic, metal and wood hang in the COPE Visitor Centre museum.

Visiting any museum about the impacts of war and its consequences is never easy, but the COPE Visitor Centre manages to tow the line between informative and educational without being too graphic. It’s a dark period of history for Laos, and one that’s still being felt today, but the achievements in clearing some of the UXO by the organisations of COPE, MAG, UXO and countless other charities across Laos is something to be celebrated.

Outside the COPE Visitor Center there is a small cafe and toilets on-site.

Entry fee to the COPE Visitor Centre:

Entry is free but if you can, please donate whatever you can to this worthy cause. There is also a gift shop on site with profits from any purchases being given to the COPE charity.

Opening times:

Open everyday from 8.30 AM until 5 PM.

Buddha Park - Wat Xieng Khouane Luang

Sitting alongside the Mekong River a short way outside of Vientiane lies the mysterious Wat Xieng Khouane Luang, or Buddha Park as it’s more commonly known. This riverside park is crammed full with over 200 humongous Buddhist and Hindu stone statues. From a massive reclining Buddha to a 2-headed elephant statue, the park has statues rising up from its green lawns like you have stumbled into a giant’s garden. As you wander around you’ll pass by huge demons staring down at you, animal statues entwined with dancing deities and massive naga heads draped in orange offerings.

Out of a vibrant grassy lawn are hundreds of different stone statues of Buddha statues and Hindu gods. To the left of the photo a huge reclining Buddha stretches out.

This bizarre park was first created in 1958 by the Lao artists Bunleua Sulilat who built both the Buddha Park in Vientiane and the neighbouring Sala Keo Kou Buddha Park located just over the Mekong in Nong Khai, Thailand. We have been lucky to have visited both parks and we just love the creative chaos of the atmosphere in both parks.

Unfortunately the central spherical sculpture (often referred to as the ‘pumpkin’) which you could climb to the top of for an amazing panoramic view over the whole park is currently closed for repairs. We’re hoping this re-opens soon as the view from the top was fantastic and the climb inside the stone sphere fun and interesting! From the top you could really get an idea of the scale of some of these sculptures.

There are toilets available inside the park and a small restaurant and plenty of food stalls outside.

A huge stone reclining Buddha rests their head on their hand. In the foreground smaller Buddha statues have been placed at its base.

If you’re heading to the park, it’s located about a 40 minutes drive outside of the city to the east along the Mekong. You can easily arrange a tuk tuk or taxi to take you to and from the park or if you’re budget backpackers like us you could hop on the public bus.

Just take the number 14 bus from Vientiane’s Central Bus Station (location) and ask the conductor for a ticket to Buddha Park. A ticket will cost you 18,000 kip per person. Once you’ve finished exploring the park, to head back to Vientiane, just exit the park and cross the road to the bus stop and wait for a bus to take you back to the city.

Entry fee to Buddha Park / Wat Xieng Khouane Luang

Tickets cost 60,000 kip per person to enter.

Opening times:

Open everyday from 8 AM until 5 PM and on Sundays from 10 AM until 3.30 PM.

A giant stone monkey stares at the viewer. It's mouth gaping open.

Vientiane's Daily Night Market

Open every day, Vientiane's bustling daily night market sprawls out on the banks of the Mekong. Open from sunset until late, the market is your standard SE Asian affair selling all the usual tourist tat. From the ubiquitous elephant pants to Beer Laos singlets, magnets of questionable designs to postcards, whatever you’re collecting for your travel memories, you’ll easily be able to buy it here. The market is always packed full of other travellers and locals, all munching down on street food, sipping bottles of Beer Laos and bartering over goods. Whenever we’re in Vientiane we always head to the market for an evening of souvenir shopping / munching.

For food, there's plenty of stalls selling stuff on sticks, laab and salads as well as roti, ice-cream and other sweet treats. Our go to, and thing we would always recommend in a Laos market is copying the locals by picking up sticks of sliced BBQ belly pork and a steaming pile of sticky rice. It’s super hearty, super moreish and super cheap! For a variety of pork sticks, 2 chicken legs and a huge pile of sticky rice, we usually pay around 60,000 to 85,000 kip. Super budget friendly for those looking for a cheap backpacking feast.

The market is open everyday from 6 to 10 PM.

A Laotian lady wearing a grey t-shirt and brown aprontends to grilling meat and fish on a smoking BBQ. In front of her sit rows of skewered meat, fish and sausages ready for the grill. — *BBQ meat stalls can be found on the streets all over Vientiane!*

Watch the sunset over the Mekong River

We couldn't write a guide to the city without mentioning watching the sunset as something to do. If you've been an avid reader of our blog then you'll know we can never pass up on watching the sun go down. Wherever we are, we love sitting with an ice cold beer and watching as the sky changes; waves of blue shifting to orange, pink to purple. Luckily for us, Vientiane is no exception and provides its own fiery display.

There are plenty of bars and restaurants that offer sunset views, but the best ones in the city are those that line the Mekong. Our favourite bar to enjoy a sunset bevy was the rooftop bar of the Tipsy Elephant Vientiane (location). Offering sunset views over the Mekong River, Thailand and the whole of Vientiane the Tipsy Elephant Bar was perfect for a sundowner. The bar serves beer, cocktails and food.

If you're heading for a sunset drink in Vientiane, particularly in the bars that line the Mekong, expect to pay a little more for beer than elsewhere in Laos - it is after all the country's capital! If you’re after a cheap sundowner beer, look out for ‘Happy Hour’ deals.

Other things to do in Vientiane

As we’ve said at the start of this article, we have been guilty, despite visiting Laos four times now, only spending a day or two in Vientiane. Next time we stay in the city, we would love to stay longer. We feel as though we’ve only just scratched the surface on what there is to do in the city and would love to check out more.

For those interested in history and art, there’s the Lao National Museum (location), the Lao Textile Museum (location) and the Vientiane Fine Arts Museum (location).

There is also the Ho Phrakeo Museum and Temple (location) located just next door to the Presidential Palace as well as Wat Sisaket (location) and Wat Si Muang (location).

We’re also eager to explore more of its street food scene and markets by just wandering around the city and seeing what we can find - always the best way to get to know a city!

Vientiane guided tours

If you’re really short on time and want to cram as many of Vientiane’s attractions into one day without the hassle of arranging transport, then why not book a guided tour of the city.

Get Your Guide offers lots of different tours from cultural and history tours, market and street food tours and even the chance to cook up a Laotian feast!

Book your Vientiane guided tour here.

A stone seated Buddha stares down at the viewer. In it's hand is a single orange flower left as an offering. At the bottom of the statue Laotian scripture has been carved into the stone.

Where to Stay in Vientiane - Accommodation in the Laotian Capital

Our favourite hotel

Being the capital of Laos, there’s no shortage of hotels, hostels and guesthouses on offer in the city.

During all our stays in the city, we’ve always splashed the cash a little and stayed in the excellent Bloom Boutique Hotel and Cafe. The hotel is centrally located with beautifully decorated rooms with super comfy double beds, clean en-suite and a delicious cafe downstairs. We’ve loved all our stays here and can highly recommend it.

To book your stay at Bloom Boutique Hotel click (here).

How to book accommodation in Vientiane

If you’re after hostels or even fancier hotels, there’s plenty on offer. Just enter your travel dates and search the map below for all accommodation available in Vientiane.

Where to go After Vientiane?

Being the capital of Laos, you pretty much have the whole of Laos at your fingertips and could in theory go anywhere, but the majority of travellers will either head north or south.

North from Vientiane

If you want to head north, you can easily catch a bus or train to the backpacker and adventure capital of Vang Vieng, to the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang or to Phonsavan and it's mysterious ‘Plains of Jars’.

South from Vientiane

If you’re continuing south, you can catch daily buses that will connect you with Thakhek and the Thakhek Loop, Pakse and the Bolaven Plateau or to the 4000 Islands of Don Det and Don Khon.

Whichever way you go we'd recommend booking your onward travel with 12Go. Check out some of Vientiane's most popular routes below.

There are even sleeper buses that depart the city daily that can take you all the way to Vietnam, Cambodia or Thailand.

Crossing the Thanaleng Border - Laos to Thailand

If you've come to the end of your Laos visa, then Vientiane makes for an easy exit point to cross the border into Thailand.

The Thanaleng Border Crossing (location) is just a short 40 minute drive away from the centre of the city. To get to the border crossing you can arrange a taxi, or for those cheap backpackers (us!), just head to Vientiane’s Central Bus Station (location) to catch a bus to the border. From the Central Bus Station (also known as Khua Din Bus Station) you can catch buses that take you straight to Nong Khai bus station or a bus that’ll just take you to the border.

We’ve taken this route a few times and have always opted for the bus to the border as it is far more frequent,

The number 14 bus leaves every 30 minutes and a ticket to the border will cost 18,000 kip. The 14 bus is also the same bus that takes you to Buddha Park, so if you’re leaving Laos on the same day, you could easily make a stop at the park before crossing the border.

The bus takes about 30 to 40 minutes (depending on traffic / stops) to reach the Thanaleng Border and will drop you right outside the border crossing.

Once you arrive, the process for leaving Laos is super easy. Just hand over your passport and completed exit form to the Laos border control. Then, get your exit stamp from Laos and head to the waiting area to catch a bus which will take you over the Laos / Thailand Friendship Bridge. Unfortunately there is no other way to cross the bridge so unless you want to get stuck in ‘No-Mans Land’ you’re at the mercy of paying the bus fare, but luckily it costs only 20 baht (around 15,000 kip depending on what currency converter they’re using that day). Once you’ve crossed the bridge you’ll be dropped off right outside the Thai Border Control. Head on through, receive your Thailand entry stamp, walk through customs and exit into the carpark. Here you’ll find the usual rush of people selling you SIM cards, taxis and tuk tuks.

From the border at Nong Khai you can hail a songthaew into town or head to the train or bus stations to take you elsewhere in Isan or Thailand.

You can catch both a train or a bus from Nong Khai which will take you all the way to Bangkok. Book your tickets via 12Go here. We did this exact journey (Vientiane to Nong Khai) on our last stay in Laos and it was a super easy journey. We left Vientiane mid-morning and were sitting eating a delicious pad kra pao in Nong Khai by lunchtime.

Our Complete Nong Khai Travel Guide:

Thailand

The Complete Guide to Nong Khai - More Than Just A Border Town

Sitting on the banks of the Mekong and stuffed full of delicious food, the city of Nong Khai is often overlooked by travellers. Frequently relegated to a border hopping town the city deserves so much more love than it gets from most backpackers. Come with us as we show you what you have been missing. From an incredible Buddha Park to the cities phenomenal food, there is so much more to Nong Khai than just a border between Thailand and Laos.

Should I go to Vientiane?

Absolutely!

Vientiane deserves a stop on any Laos itinerary. The city has a completely different feeling to anywhere else we’ve been in Laos. The city is stuffed full of culture and history, whilst still being full of the mod-cons. As you wander down the streets, you’ll pass by glinting temples, streetside BBQs and colourful market stalls all sitting opposite high-end hotels and glass fronted offices.

Vientiane is a city where even if you have only a day or two you can still enjoy everything it has to offer. The majority of bus and train routes serving northern and southern Laos will mean you’ll have to change in Vientiane, which means there is always an excuse to stay a night or two in the city.

Whatever your plans are, Vientiane deserves a stop. The Laotian capital is completely different to any other capital you’ll find in Asia.

Don’t skip Vientiane.

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

A young Ellie wearing a black and white skirt and a black t-shirt poses for a photograph in front of the Patuxai Monument. — *A very young Ellie on her first trip to Vientiane in 2018!*

Check out all our Laos travel guides

Scroll along for more!

Wat Phou and Champasak - The Ancient Khmer Ruins of Laos

The Bolaven Plateau - A Guide to Riding the Pakse Loop

What To Do In Savannakhet - A Complete Guide

Thakhek Town - The Complete Guide

24 Hours in Vientiane, Laos - A Quick Guide to the Capital

Floating Above Laos - A Hot Air Balloon Ride in Vang Vieng

Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

Muang Ngoi - A Hidden Riverside Treasure In Northern Laos

The 100 Waterfalls Trek - A Day Out Hiking From Nong Khiaw

Food in Luang Prabang - A Guide to the Best Places to Eat

Thailand to Laos - The Bangkok to Vientiane Express Train

Laotian Luxury in Luang Prabang

Nong Khiaw - The Complete Guide

Pakbeng - What To Do If You’ve Missed Your Slow Boat?

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Floating Above Laos - A Hot Air Balloon Ride in Vang Vieng

The Laotian backpacker town of Vang Vieng is famous for being one of the cheapest places in the world to take a hot air balloon flight. Wherever you are in town, in the morning or at sunset, you can see the stately balloons drift overhead. The scenery around Vang Vieng is stunning, with craggy jagged mountains, turquoise blue lagoons and chequerboards of paddy fields. It is the perfect place to take a hot air balloon ride.

We had tried to go ballooning in Vang Vieng on our first trip to Laos in 2018 but failed due to the weather. Now on our 3rd time in the country we were determined to float above the countryside of Laos. This is our guide to the hot air balloons of Vang Vieng, our experience of the flight, practical information and how to book your own hot air balloon ride.

A red hot air balloon floats over fields in the countryside of Vang Vieng.

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links. We have not received any discount, gift or financial incentive from "Above Laos Ballooning" to write this article. We had such a great time on our flight we decided to share our experiences as they would be a useful guide for others looking at taking a hot air balloon in Vang Vieng.

Hot Air Balloons in Vang Vieng, What to Expect - Our Sunset Flight with Above Laos Ballooning

Our evening in the skies started on the ground at our hostel (the lovely Lily Backpackers) where we were picked up by minivan and driven down Vang Vieng's dusty, bumpy roads to the "Above Laos" HQ. We were dressed to impress as not only were we treating ourselves to a hot air balloon ride but we would be indulging in our favourite Vang Vieng pizzeria - Pizza Luka, after our flight. We were hoping to celebrate finally getting to ride in a hot air balloon!

We had tried to go ballooning in 2018 with no success and, earlier that week, our flight had been called off due to bad weather. We were hoping that today we could finally get off the ground. The champagne stacked behind the counter at the ballooning HQ was an encouraging sign.

The weather was beautiful, the skies were still and clear - the flight was going to go ahead! We were given a reassuring briefing, told how to brace in case of awkward landings and split into our respective ballooning parties. Then it was back in the vans and off to the launch site.

On a dry paddy field three balloons were laid out. We don't think we had quite realised how big a deflated hot air balloon was. Wicker and leather baskets the size of small cars sat next to metres and metres of carefully laid out material. It looked like some giant washed up deep sea creature, a deflated monster. As we watched, the baskets were tipped on their sides and huge fans wheeled in to start pumping air into the balloons.

A man crouches down and aims a big fan next to a flame to inflate a big red hot air balloon in Vang Vieng.

As the balloons, well ... ballooned, the team of pilots fixed them to the baskets and tethered them in place. Then they fired up the burners. We did not expect the flamethrowing burners to be so loud but they roared like indignant dragons, fire streaming into the open mouths of the sideways balloons. Slowly, as they filled with the hot air from the fires, the balloons began to rise. As the balloons filled up they rose from the ground and dragged the tethered baskets upright. It was time to board our flight.

A team of men wearing red t-shirts get two Above Laos Hot Air Balloons prepped for a flight.

Small steps had been woven into the sides of the enormous baskets and we clambered into the balloon, each couple had a small "pod" or section within the basket. We were right next to the driver, and right under the burner! John, wearing long trousers for the first time in months, was already sweating under the heat of the flamethrowers.

Around us the other balloons were already rising into the clear blue afternoon sky. Our pilot was expert in their control of the fire, keeping the balloon filled and upright, but still on the ground until it was our turn to launch.

It was such a strange feeling taking off in a hot air balloon. It was like being in a stately elevator, the basket rose with no jolt or wobbles, it was perfectly still but the ground fell smoothly away from us. It almost didn't feel like we were moving at all, the hot air made us lighter and lighter until it just tipped the balance and we were lighter than air.

The smoothness of our take-off had definitely reassured some of the more nervous flyers. The girl next to us had been a ball of anxiety about flying. Her bravery was being highly rewarded though, as beneath us Vang Vieng fell away and the landscape of Laos unrolled around us.

A hot air balloon floats over fields as seen from the basket of another hot air balloon.

The town of Vang Vieng is not exactly beautiful, it contains beautiful temples and a beautiful river, but the town is a jumble of buildings and concrete, hotels and bars. A mess of development and little planning. The area around Vang Vieng however is stunning. Crystalline blue lagoons, winding rivers and impossibly creased and craggy mountains. If all you know of Vang Vieng is parties and tubing you are really missing out. The landscape and countryside around the town are amazing.

From our vantage point, around 3000 feet above, this beauty was everywhere; paddy fields gold from the recent harvest carpeted the valley floors beneath the spiralling jagged limestone karsts that punctured the region like black and grey teeth.

After our initial ascent our pilot (driver, balloonist?) demonstrated his skill by hovering over a lake, then descending just enough to brush the basket on the waters surface before rising away up and over the surrounding mountains. They clearly knew what they were doing!

A red and yellow 'Above Laos' hot air balloon sits on top of a lake, it's reflection reflected in the waters below. — *The ‘Above Laos’ pilots were very skilled in flying their balloons!*

We drifted over mountains and fields, over lakes, lagoons and farmhouses. Our balloon passed over the viewpoints we had climbed up on the rocky karsts. It was a serene and beautiful ride. The calm zen only being broken by the roar of the burners as our driver adjusted our altitude.

Our driver was in constant communication with the other balloons, they knew where he was and he knew where they were floating to. There were apps and instruments showing altitude, wind and our projected direction / destination. Ballooning is an old method of flight, its first success being with the Montgolfier brothers in 1783, and the basics have all stayed the same. In the skies above Laos we were glad of the modern touches but loved the simplicity of the balloon - add heat until you are lighter than air and simply float off.

At one point we were soaring high, the highest we rose to on the whole flight, when we looked over the baskets edge and saw, far below, the other two balloons. Beneath them the whole of the Vang Vieng countryside was spread out like a map. It was a fantastic perspective, one impossible to replicate without a balloon.

A top down view over a small village outside of Vang Vieng taken from the basket of a hot air balloon. — *Who needs a drone when you can take photos from a hot air balloon!*

We had set off in the late afternoon and the setting sun was turning the whole landscape gold, from this high up we could see the curvature of the world and the mountains of Laos looked positively small. It was simply beautiful.

A single red hot air balloon floats over the green and yellow countryside of Vang Vieng. The flat valley is punctuated by tall, jagged mountains.

As the sun began to sink below the mountains, we too began to descend. Slow and gently our balloon drifted down. Our landing site was to be a large flat field next to a road. On the ground already, our minivan waited alongside a flatbed truck for the balloon and basket.

Our basket was caught and tethered by waiting members of Above Laos. It was expertly guided until it came to hover over the flat bed of the truck. One by one everyone got out of the balloon as the hot air escaped and the canvas deflated. Soon it was only John left aboard.

They used him as ballast, we cant think why...

John stands in a hot air balloon basket which is being guided onto a flat bed lorry by the Above Laos support team.

After touchdown we were ferried back to the HQ and celebrated our amazing flight with champagne, fruit and a little certificate to take home.

Ballooning had been incredible, lighter than air flight is a thing all its own and has to be experienced to be understood. It was like floating or levitating rather than flying and had been the perfect vantage point to appreciate the incredible landscapes of Vang Vieng.

Hot Air Balloons in Vang Vieng - The Practical Guide

Choosing a company for your hot air balloon ride - Prices, companies and how to book

There are many different operators offering balloon rides throughout Vang Vieng. We would urge you to do your research and not just book based on price. We are two thrifty long term budget backpackers but, if we are going to treat ourselves to something as pricey as a hot air balloon ride, we are going to do it right!

You can book a flight on a hot air balloon through any of the travel agents in town (they are on every corner, you cannot miss them), or directly with the operators online. We chose, for the many reasons below, Above Laos Ballooning you can book them online here.

All of the operators fly different "routes", this is something worth considering and checking. We had spent many sunsets in Vang Vieng at the Pull Mind Cafe watching as the hot air balloons floated over. We noticed that several of the operators seemed to simply take off from one side of Vang Vieng town and land on the other. This seemed like a bit of a waste as of all the beautiful things and scenery Vang Vieng has to offer, the town is not really the most picturesque. However in the distance we could see other balloons floating over the gorgeous countryside - it was going to be one of them for our trip.

We checked around and settled on Above Laos Ballooning for our hot air balloon ride, they are one of the more expensive (only by around $10) operators but they flew the route we wanted and had impressive reviews and records. I'm sure you have seen the Tik Tok's of the hot air balloons accidentally landing in the river - this was not with Above Laos!

Our Vang Vieng hot air balloon flight with Above Laos Ballooning cost $145.00 per person.

If you read our experience on the hot air balloon above we think you will agree that we made the right choice. Obviously we only went ballooning once and cannot compare operators fairly, but Above Laos were exceptional in everything we experienced. From the prep and the flight itself, to the pickup and champagne after landing it was a fantastic trip.

Above Laos Ballooning and we presume the other operators as well, offer private balloons for groups and even a smaller balloon for a romantic private flight. Above Laos even offered a proposal package....

If Above Laos Ballooning are sold out or you fancy combining your ballooning with other activities, check out Get Your Guide for some other options.

A red and yellow 'Above Laos' hot air balloon basket is full of passengers taking a flight over the Laotian jungle.

Should I Take a sunrise or sunset flight?

This is totally up to you, we went for sunset as we are lazy and didn't want to have to get up early in the morning. Also we love sunsets and Vang Vieng, its horizon of jagged mountains, gives fantastic sunsets. That being said the sunrise flights will be more "reliable", the weather in the mornings (at least when we visited at the end of the dry season in November), is clearer and less prone to rain than the afternoon / evenings. The choice is yours!

Is riding a hot air balloon scary?

We have to preface this with the fact that neither one of us has a fear of heights, if you have vertigo your experience may be very different to ours.

We found the Vang Vieng hot air balloons to be completely non-scary! It was like being in an elevator when it rose and fell. The basket was level, stable and never wobbled. There was no real feeling of rising or falling, hot air balloons really are not like any other type of flight we have tried!

The safety rail was high enough to make us feel completely secure and the pilots were fully and confidently in control of the balloon. We did have perfect weather and a perfect landing - you may have a slightly less stately landing if there are stronger winds. However, if you go with a good company they will not set off in any adverse conditions and will fully brief you so you know what to do if the landing is going to be bumpy!

An orange flame can be seen flaming up inside a red hot air balloon. — *More fire!*

How long is the hot air balloon flight?

Our flight lasted a little over 45 minutes. Flights can be a little shorter or longer depending on the weather, time of day and the season. Our pilot told us anything between 30 mins and 1.5 hours is possible.

How many people are in the hot air balloon?

With Above Laos we shared the balloon with 6 other travellers plus the pilot - 9 people in total. The balloon basket was divided into two person sections and we had enough room to turn around and didn't feel cramped.

As we mentioned, for those with deep pockets (well outside a backpacking budget), you could hire a private balloon for your group. Or (again at quite a bit of an expense) you could hire a couples balloon…with a driver (the ultimate 3rd wheel).

A red and yellow 'Above Laos' hot air balloon floats over gentle rolling hills covered in green bushes outside of Vang Vieng, Laos.

Cancellations - What happens if it rains?

A hot air balloon is very weather dependant. We had our first attempt at ballooning in 2018 scuppered by rain. Then again on this trip, our first flight was cancelled. If there is a chance of bad weather they will call off the balloon flight. If you think about it, this is just as well. Our balloon operator told us: “We would rather you be unhappy on the ground than in the sky”

If weather cancels the flight then they will attempt to reschedule you with another departure date. If you cannot make the new date they will refund you. Obviously if you cancel or don’t show up to a flight this wont apply!

We cannot speak for all companies but this was the policy with the operator from 2018 and with Above Laos Ballooning.

A white noticeboard outside the 'Above Laos Hot Air Balloon' HQ shows a stone and a weather forecast.

What to wear when ballooning - What to bring with you on your flight

On our flight it got very warm in the balloon, particularly if you are under the burners. So maybe don't be like John and wear your only pair of posh jeans and a long sleeve shirt! According to our pilot it is always warm in the balloon because of the burner so even if you are going for a sunrise flight don't dress for the arctic. If you are very sensitive to heat consider a hat to protect yourself from the flying flamethrower!

Most of the companies will ask you to wear closed toe shoes, this is because you will likely be setting off and landing in farmers fields and they don't want you stumbling around in your flip-flops.

As with anywhere in Laos, make sure you sun-cream up as you don't want sunburn to be your souvenir from the flight.

As for what else to bring - cameras, Go-pros and/or your phone to record your flight! How will hundreds of online strangers know about your YOLO ballooning experience otherwise? Seriously it is incredibly beautiful in the skies above Vang Vieng, you will want a memento. Most operators will be able to loan you a Go-Pro at a cost if asked in advance.

A red and yellow 'Above Laos' hot air balloon is reflected in a brown lake. The balloon's wicker basket can be seen at the bottom of the photo.

Hot Air Balloons in Vang Vieng - Is it worth it?

The hot air balloon ride in Vang Vieng was one of the most expensive things we have done on our whole backpacking adventure - and we would do it again in a heartbeat! It was fun, beautiful and unlike anything we have done before. Ballooning is a completely different experience than climbing a mountain or looking out from a sky-scraper viewpoint, it is literally flying! The stunning, mountainous countryside of Vang Vieng spilled out below us from a viewpoint so high that no ladder, path or stairway could ever reach us, it made for a unique and amazing afternoon. How else could you stand, no seat-belt or harness, in the fresh air, 3000 feet above the ground- all in perfect safety?

Yes hot air balloons rides are expensive, but ballooning in Vang Vieng is one of the cheapest available anywhere in the world. Sometimes you have to pay for the good things in life and Vang Vieng allowed us a fantastic experience soaring through the skies of Laos in a hot air balloon.

If you are in Vang Vieng and have enough wiggle room in your budget, hot air ballooning truly is a ‘bucket list’ experience!

Thanks for reading,

John and Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

Make sure you check out our guide to Vang Vieng town and what else there is to do.

Vang Vieng - The Ultimate Guide

Paramotoring / Paragliding

If this has whetted your appetite for flight, Vang Vieng offers a whole host of other airborne options. You could zoom about on zip lines or even fly in a paramotor. Let us know in the comments if you do either of these, we would love for some recommendations for next time we are in Vang Vieng!

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Vang Vieng - The Best Places to Eat and Drink

With everything from traditional Laotian barbecues to sushi and sandwiches, Vang Vieng has a plate to offer no matter what food you are craving. From comfort foods for backpackers missing home, to delicious Laotian cuisine, there is something for everyone to eat in Vang Vieng.

Sitting between the UNESCO World Heritage city of Luang Prabang and the Laotian capital of Vientiane, Vang Vieng is an essential stop on any trip to Laos. Famous for its stunning scenery, tubing and adventure activities you’re sure to work up an appetite in this backpacking town. We have spent over a fortnight eating our way around the town and this is our guide to the best places to eat, drink and grab a coffee in Vang Vieng.

An iced Americano sits on a wooden shelf at the Pull Mind Cafe of Vang Vieng. Behind limestone karsts rise up out of the Laotian jungle.

In our guide to the best food and drink of Vang Vieng:

Where to eat in Vang Vieng?

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

If you haven’t read our guide on what to do and where to stay in Vang Vieng, make sure you check it out here:

What To Do In Vang Vieng - The Complete Guide

The Best Places To Eat In Vang Vieng

During our stay in Vang Vieng our tastes varied wildly. One day we would be in the mood for sticky rice and Laotian barbecues the next, we’d be craving a cheesy pizza. Luckily for us, Vang Vieng has something to offer every palate.

Laos cuisine and Asian restaurants

Banking BBQ Restaurant

Our favourite restaurant in Vang Vieng!

You’ll know you have arrived when you see the street-side BBQ roaring and flaming away and the smell of roasting meat filling the air. We ate at Banking BBQ Restaurant several times and highly recommend their special Vang Vieng Grilled Duck as well as their delicious pork belly. Their side dishes are also great; make sure you check out the stir-fried Chinese cabbage and eggs.

We always went for pork belly or duck with sticky rice, a side plate and a serving of their amazing som tam salad.

A wooden table is filled with plates of grilled ducj and BBQ roast belly pork alongside a green plastic basket full of cabbage, mint and Thail basil, a plate of cucumber and bun noodles and bottles of Beer Laos at the Banking restaurant of Vang Vieng

The restaurant is very reasonably priced with cheap beers. The service is a little chaotic and very much Asian style - food comes whenever it's ready and not all at the same time!

Street-side Sticky Rice, BBQ Meat and Som Tam Street Food Stalls

During the day, you can find small street food stalls with charcoal grills serving up sticky rice, meat and som tam salad. Our favourite stall was located just off the edge of the airstrip. The lovely lady here served incredibly cheap, incredibly rich pork and a seriously spicy papaya salad!

A lunch for 2 people - sticky rice and BBQ meat cost us 50,000 kip - a great backpacker bargain!

There are a couple of seats outside her stall or she can box it up for takeaway. If you’re planning a viewpoint hike this would be a great portable lunch choice.

Chaixi Noodles

This one came as a recommendation from some fellow travellers we met in Muang Ngoi and they were spot on! We love Chinese dumpling noodles and Chaixi Noodles was perfect.

Plump wontons swimming in a garlic studded, comforting and super addictive broth. Everyone knows crispy pork makes everything better and this soup is no exception! Make sure you grab some beansprouts, cabbage, lime and fresh chilli from the table near the kitchen to customise your bowl.

Again this is a very backpacker budget friendly restaurant, with crispy pork, wonton soup coming in at 45,000 kip a bowl.

The restaurant also serves some dim sum and other noodle dishes.

A black ramen bowl is filled with yellow egg noodles, chunks of roast crispy pork, spring onion slices, pak choi, garlic chips and wontons at the Chaixi Noodle restaurant in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Ban Lao

Another great choice for those looking for yummy wontons, Ban Lao is located in the heart of Vang Vieng. You can easily spot this restaurant by the towers of steaming dim sum baskets outside. Serving red pork noodles, wontons, crispy pork and dim sum, Ban Lao is quick, hearty and very reasonably priced.

We ordered a selection of dim sum that were steamed to perfection and started at 10,000 kip per basket.

The wonton bowls were also very reasonable at 40,000 to 50,000 kip per bowl.

A green ramen bowl is filled with crispy pork, sliced spring onions, spring greens, garlic, roasted pork, wonton, egg noodles and a broth at the Ban Lao restaurant in Vang Vieng.

Street Food Restaurant

Sometimes you just need a simple plate of fried rice and the Street Food Restaurant (that’s its actual name) cooks up a fantastic one. Full of great wok smoked flavour, stuffed with vegetables and in our case, roast pork, its everything you want from a fried rice. Our dish came with a side serving of a delicate, pork soup - a great accompaniment to the rich fried rice.

Don’t miss out on their excellent chilli oil, John is (or thinks he is) a chilli oil connoisseur and this was his favourite of Vang Vieng’s offerings.

It is always good to have a reliably great fried rice spot and “Street Food” became ours.

A white plate is filled with pork and egg fried rice and sliced cucumber. Next to the plate is a small bowl of pork soup at the Street Food Restaurant of Vang Vieng.

Ladi Restaurant

(location)

Possibly Vang Vieng’s most popular restaurant with backpackers, Ladi Restaurant was open from early morning to late at night serving all the backpacker favourites. Pad krapow to pad thai, sandwiches to burgers, whatever you fancied was somewhere in the pages of their menu.

Normally the above would worry us - a ‘jack of all trades’ restaurant usually means a ‘master of none’ but happily this was definitely not the case at Ladi.

We came here multiple times and all the food we ate was great and well priced - very occasionally it does pay to follow the crowd.

ຮ້ານເຂົ້າ ອາເຮຍ - Pork Leg Rice

(location)

Thai comfort food at its finest, we’ve fallen in love with pork leg rice during a food tour in Chiang Mai and always seek it out wherever we go. We weren’t expecting pork leg in Vang Vieng but can confirm it's here and it's delicious.

A huge plate of steamed rice topped with meltingly soft pork leg in the famous sweet and tangy sauce - delicious!

This restaurant also serves all the standard SE Asian favourites including a very good pork and yellow noodle soup.

A white china plate is filled with rice, pork leg stew and a sliced hard boiled egg at a restaurant in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Vang Vieng Walking Street & Night Market

(location)

As night falls, all along Vang Vieng’s Walking Street stalls pop up selling everything from the ubiquitous elephant pants to local souvenirs and crafts. Wherever you get a market you’ll also find food.

Dotted throughout the night market are small stalls and sit down eateries offering hot pots, grilled meat and sticky rice as well as sweet treats, including the backpacker favourite of banana pancakes / roti.

If you’re up for trying a traditional Lao street food snack we would highly recommend the grilled sticky rice covered in yellow egg yolk. It’s nutty and, if you get the chilli glaze, deliciously spiced.

Rice cakes covered in egg yolk sit grilling on a metal BBQ on the streets of Vang Vieng.

Home Comforts - Western food in Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng Sandwiches

(location) - found all over town but these were our favourite

We didn’t know which section to put these in but they are an absolute staple of the backpacker scene in Vang Vieng. Available from dozens of stalls on almost every street corner are Vang Vieng’s famous sandwiches. Made famous by social media these are not just a craze but a hearty and cheap way to fill your belly.

You can get a sandwich with pretty much any combination of fillings you may want. Chicken to bacon, egg to beef, vegetables to cheese, whatever you fancy, you can get. We always opted for a meat feast: a baguette would be cut in half, then toasted on a flat grill and stuffed with fried chicken, melted cheese, bacon, onion and an omelette. It was massive, tasty and very filling.

The stalls also serve more traditional burgers as well as pancakes. If you’ve had a late night, these are the perfect hangover cure! In fact most of the sandwich stalls will stay open into the early hours of the morning to soak up any remaining Beer Lao.

A row of stalls selling sandwiches, burgers and roti pancakes line a street in Vang Vieng, Laos. Outside each stall huge boards display each stalls menu. — *Just some of the famous “Vang Vieng” sandwich stalls!*

Pizza Luka

This one is a treat, not in the everyday backpacking budget but definitely within the ‘treat yourself range’.

Full story - Pizza Luka (in its old location) was one of our favourite meals when we visited on the fateful 2018 holiday - the one that cemented our dream and convinced us to start planning our long-term travel (read all about that here). The pizza had lived in our memories ever since and we knew that even on our backpacking budget we had to go back.

Pizza Luka has upgraded itself to a posh new garden restaurant since the last time we visited, however the pizza is still the same - completely excellent! We ordered two thin crust pizzas, topped with premium local mozzarella and the best imported anchovies, olives and goats cheese. It was fantastic!

The two pizzas, extra olives and a couple of beers cost us a little over 600,000 kip - not an everyday expense but worth it as a treat. We celebrated our successful ballooning adventure with a meal at Pizza Luka’s and it was the perfect treat to end a fantastic day out.

Hom Coffee

This is one we should (but don’t) feel guilty about - sometimes you just need a Full English Breakfast. Hom Coffee serves an absolutely fantastic Full English. Heinz beans, proper bacon, hash browns, black pudding, the works - they even have proper tomato ketchup!

A white plate is filled with baked beans, 2 rashers of bacon, a fried egg, toast, 2 sausages, black pudding, hashbrown and grilled tomatoes at the Hom Coffee Cafe in Vang Vieng. — *You just can’t beat a Full English Breakfast!*

If you’re after some home comforts in Vang Vieng, you really can’t beat Hom Coffee. There are few things in this world quite as rejuvenating as a Full English Breakfast and it's very handy to have a good one in a town like Vang Vieng.

The cafe serves lots of different Western plates as well as very good coffee.

Golden Bamboo

(location)

If you’re in the mood for something “fresher” than a Full English then the falafel and hummus plate at Golden Bamboo is an essential try.

A huge portion of homemade falafel is served with fluffy pita bread, salad and dips, all surrounding a massive dollop of rich, oil-laced hummus. It’s a little more pricey than the street food options on this list, but well worth the expense. Go hungry, the portions are massive.

Golden Bamboo also serves buddha bowls, salads, noodles and a range of vegan options. If you’re feeling fancy it also has a selection of wines on the menu.

A white plate is filled with sliced pita bread, cucumber, salad, tomatoes, fried balls of falafel, a big dollop of hummus and 2 dips on a table at the Golden Bamboo restaurant of Vang Vieng.

Green Restaurant

If you’re looking for a fantastic sunset spot for dinner, head to Green Restaurant and its huge veranda overlooking the mountains. Serving wood-fired pizza and all the Asian staples, it's a very popular restaurant. Make sure to get there early if you want the best seats!

Wooden tables and blue plastic chairs sit in rows on the wooden veranda of the Green Restaurant in Vang Vieng. In the background tall mountains rise up out of the jungle.

7-Eleven

Okay we hate ourselves for this one but we can’t leave this off the list! Sometimes you just need a cheese toastie - we’re just weak okay!

Laos has very few 7-Eleven’s and Vang Vieng is home to one of them. If you’re really missing your sushi triangles, cheese and ham toasties and the chocolate lava cake, you can pick up any of the convenience store staples up here in the heart of Vang Vieng.

On top of white bedding sits 2 bottles of Vit-C lemon drinks, a bottle of lemon flavoured Fuze Tea, vanilla filled eclairs and a packed of Cornito's bought from a 7-Eleven store in Vang Vieng. — *Just some of our 7-Eleven favourite snacks - aka “tell me your hungover without telling me your hungover!”*

The Best Coffee Shops in Vang Vieng

Finding the perfect caffeine fix in the backpacker capital of Laos

Whatever your coffee needs are Vang Vieng can provide. From high end air-conditioned craft brews to unexpected roadside treats there is a caffeinated cup for every budget.

Pull Mind Cafe

In the early evening as the sun starts to set, Pull Mind Cafe becomes the unofficial common room for the backpackers of Vang Vieng. With front row seats overlooking the dramatic mountain peaks, and sitting directly underneath the flight path of most of the hot air balloons, Pull Mind Cafe is a fantastic sunset spot.

Serving coffee, smoothies, tea, Italian sodas and beer, the cafe also offers food including fried rice, papaya salad and summer rolls. Pull Mind Cafe became our go to for a couple of beers at sundown. It and the Green Restaurant really are unrivalled for Vang Vieng’s sunsets.

Like Green Restaurant above, if you want to get the best seats for sunset make sure you get to Pull Mind early.

Two plastic cups are filled with iced americano and iced lime juice. Both cups sit on a wooden shelf at the Pull Mind Cafe. Behind the cups the sun can be seen setting behind the limestone karsts in Vang Vieng town.

Kiwi Coffee

On the road between Vang Vieng and the lagoons is this tiny little coffee shop. Don’t let its small size fool you, this place punches well above its weight in coffee and food.

We enjoyed some excellent iced Americano’s after a hot and sweaty climb up the nearby viewpoint (read all about that here).

The sandwiches also looked fantastic, let us know if they are as good as they look in the comments.

Naked Espresso

Probably the “poshest” coffee shop in Vang Vieng. Naked Espresso has the massive advantage of being gloriously air-conditioned.

On top of a wooden tray sits a slice of lime cake drizzled in honey next to a glass of iced latte at the Naked Espresso coffee shop of Vang Vieng, Laos.

If you want a really good, Western style coffee in a comfy, cool, chilled out environment, Naked Espresso has you covered.

A little bit more expensive than other options on this list, Naked Espresso is well worth the extra. Make sure you splash out and try a slice of their lime cake - you won’t be disappointed!

The Mini Cafe

Sitting on the opposite bank of the river to the main town of Vang Vieng you’ll pass by the Mini Cafe if you’re driving towards the blue lagoons and viewpoints. We stopped in here multiple times for a caffeine fix on our way out of town. Serving great iced coffees at reasonable prices, this stylish cafe appears to be an Instagram hotspot with the local youth. Behind the cafe is a winding wooden path leading out to a selfie spot amongst the rice paddies.

Honestly, we’re not sure why it’s called the Mini Cafe as it’s one of the biggest coffee shops in Vang Vieng!

The Bars of Vang Vieng - the Best Place for a Drink

Vang Vieng is known, for better or worse, for being a party town. This is true and false in equal measures - If you want a party you can 100% find one but if you just want a chilled out drink no one is going to drag you into a shots contest! There are parties but they do not take over the town and you are not “missing out” if you skip them.

We are (very very slightly) past the point of 3am beer pong and kings cup games - we like good music, vibes and a few cold beers in good company - Vang Vieng was great for this!

Bars and Pubs in Vang Vieng - Where to Get a Beer

Gary’s Irish Bar

Everywhere you go you’ll always find an Irish Bar. Gary’s was fantastic - our go to for a good night out. Beer aplenty, great music, free pool table and fantastic backpacker vibes, Gary’s is an easy recommendation.

We had quite a few late nights in Gary’s Irish Bar, it is always busy and welcoming. We would say it was our favourite bar in Vang Vieng just for its relaxed and fun vibes.

Also, if you’re feeling naughty, they serve really good home comfort food and snacks. A few beers down and we absolutely loved their cheesy chips and gravy!

Jaidee’s Bar

A Vang Vieng institution that manages to be both famous and infamous. Jaidee’s Bar is a riot of neon, drapes, stuffed animals and hippy chic. Always popular, the bar is open late into the night and is a hub of the Vang Vieng party scene.

Jaidee’s Bar in the evenings tows the line between chilled and party, with great music, free pool and plenty of spots to lounge around. If you’re in the mood for a party, it really kicks off later in the night.

A bottle of Beer Laos sits on a table in the neon lit, flag covered Jaidee's Bar of Vang Vieng.

The Big Easy

If you’re looking for a chilled beer and riverside views, then the cavernous Big Easy has you covered. A laid back bar with a pool table, cold beer and a relaxed atmosphere, the Big Easy is a great spot for an afternoon drink.

We’ve only just scratched the surface on what Vang Vieng has to offer. In our two weeks we ate and drank fantastically in this backpacker haven but we didn’t get to try nearly half of what Vang Vieng had in store. How was the sushi? What about the hot pot? If we have missed anywhere off this list that you would recommend, let us know in the comments!

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

A streetside stall sells BBQ skewers, grilled chicken wings and moo ping in Vang Vieng, Laos. — *You’ll never go hungry in Vang Vieng - wherever you look there’s plenty of food!*

All our Vang Vieng travel guides

If you’re planning a trip to Vang Vieng, check out all our guides to the town below:

Vang Vieng - All Guides

Floating Above Laos - A Hot Air Balloon Ride in Vang Vieng

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The Complete Guide To Vang Vieng, Laos

Sitting on the banks of the Nam Song River and surrounded by towering mountain peaks, Vang Vieng is the adventure capital and backpacking heart of Laos. For backpackers, Vang Vieng has everything you could want with lots of cheap hostels, plenty of things to do, cute cafes, street food and a lively bar scene.

Vang Vieng has a reputation for late night parties and the infamous ‘tipsy tubing’. The party scene and the river tubing helped put Vang Vieng on the map - sometime for all the wrong reasons. However, if you’re worried that Vang Vieng is just drunken backpackers, neon bars and late night raves, we’re happy to report it is emphatically not!

As you head into the countryside, leaving the towns dusty streets, mis-matched buildings and ramshackled shops behind, you’ll be greeted with some of the most incredible landscapes Laos has to offer. Paddy fields stretch out as far as the eye can see whilst all around huge, jungle-clad mountain peaks rise up out of the flat valley floor. The countryside is where Vang Vieng’s beauty lies - it is simply stunning! It is here, outside of the town, where you’ll find the jaw-dropping viewpoints, natural swimming pools and deep caves. If you’re a backpacker with a sense of adventure, Vang Vieng is an absolute essential stop on any Laos itinerary.

Limestone karsts rise up from green jungle and paddy fields in the countryside surrouding the town of Vang Vieng. Photo taken from the viewing platform on top of the Pha Nguen viewpoint, Laos.

In this Vang Vieng Travel Guide

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The town of Vang Vieng has always been a popular stop on the Southeast Asian ‘Banana Backpacking trail’ with thousands of backpackers braving Laos’ very bumpy roads each year to reach it. Nowadays, the journey to Vang Vieng has become even easier with the recent opening of the Laos / China high speed railway connecting the town with the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang in the north and the capital of Vientiane in the south.

For backpackers, Vang Vieng feels like some kind of vortex. A place where it’s too easy to get sucked into its laid back charm. It’s a town where you’ll plan to stop for just a few days, but when it comes to check out, time will have run away from you and you’ll realise you’ve stayed for nearly a fortnight - we’re speaking from experience here!

During the day, the town is super relaxed with backpackers chilling in the cafes and bars. Then as the sun goes down, the population of the town swells as people flock to riverside bars to watch the sunset over the mountains.

Vang Vieng is the type of town you really hope to find on your backpacking travels. One where you can do whatever you want, be whatever you want to be and there’s no pressure to do anything. If you fancy spending the whole day in a hammock you can, if you want to be energetic and explore the surrounding countryside, you can, or if you’d like to party until the sun comes up, you could do that as well.

For us, Vang Vieng felt a bit like a border town. One of those towns you’d expect to stumble upon in the Wild West where anything goes. There are so many places in this world that used to be on the ‘traditional backpacking trail’ that have now lost their identity. At the moment (we can’t say it will forever), Vang Vieng is still clinging on to its charm.

A rice field is full of yellow shoots leftover from the recent harvest. Behind the field, tall mountains rise up in Vang Vieng. — *Just head out of Vang Vieng town and you’ll be greeted by some spectacular views!*

If you’re a backpacker and looking for chilled out vibes, late night bars and adventurous activities, then Vang Vieng is a must. With cheap swimming holes, amazing viewpoints to climb and riverside activities, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. We have been lucky enough to visit the town twice now and have stayed for nearly a month in total. This is our guide on everything there is to do in Vang Vieng - Laos’ backpacker haven!

Before we go on with this article, it’s time for a little Adventures of Jellie backstory.

Vang Vieng will always have a special place in our hearts, for it was here, many years ago, that we decided to make our travel dreams a reality. Rolling back the clock to 2018, we were visiting the town during a 3 week holiday we had managed to grab off of work. Constrained to a tight itinerary, we only had a few days in the town and couldn’t do everything we wanted. Frustrated and annoyed, we knew we couldn’t keep travelling this way, we needed more time. Sipping on our ice cold Beer Laos and watching a fiery sunset, we knew we needed to travel the world. It was in a bars garden in Vang Vieng we hatched our long term travel plans.

After a few years of saving, planning and a worldwide pandemic thrown into the mix, the Adventures of Jellie was finally born. To find out all more about our backpacking backstory, click here.

Where is Vang Vieng?

Vang Vieng is located in northern Laos in the province of Vientiane. The main town of Vang Vieng spreads away from the eastern banks of the Nam Song River and is completely surrounded on all sides by towering, limestone peaks.

Vang Vieng sits around a 2 hours drive, or short train ride (130 km) north of the Laotian capital of Vientiane.

North of Vang Vieng is the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang, a 5 hour (183 km) drive (or again a short train ride) away.

The town can also be known as Vang Viang and is often written down as VV for short. Vang Vieng in Laotian is written as ວັງວຽງ.

The town of Vang Vieng has a big mix of everything from cheap hostel dorms to high-end luxury hotels, street food stalls & barbeques to air-conditioned restaurants, late night bars to chilled out cafes. Whatever type of backpacker you are, Vang Vieng can provide.

Two young Laotian school boys ride an electric bike through the dusty streets of Vang Vieng.

How to get to Vang Vieng?

The town is extremely well connected by both road and rail and you can easily reach Vang Vieng directly from Luang Prabang, Phonsavan, Vientiane or Thakhek. If you’re coming from Nong Khiaw, Pakse or Don Det then there are a few direct bus routes operating, but it will be easier to change in the larger transport hubs of Vientiane or Luang Prabang, jumping on either another bus or connecting to the high speed railway line.

For those heading to Vang Vieng from Thailand, you can get a direct train from Bangkok to Vientiane and then switch to the high speed rail or a bus - we did this ourselves passing through Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. Read more about this later.

Getting to Vang Vieng by bus

The cheapest and most backpacker friendly way to reach Vang Vieng is by bus. Regular buses and minivans run daily from Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Phonsavan.

For those heading to Vang Vieng from Nong Khiaw, you will need to take a bus to Luang Prabang and then change to a bus or train to Vang Vieng there. To reach Vang Vieng from Pakse or the far south, you’ll need to catch a bus to Vientiane and then change buses / train there. Some hostels may sell “direct tickets” but these will still involve a change in the capital or in Luang Prabang.

You can book tickets from a tour agency, at the bus station or online via 12Go. Just remember that buses can sell out extremely quickly, so plan accordingly and always head to the bus station with plenty of time to get a good seat!

Both times we’ve visited Vang Vieng we have travelled there by bus. The first time we were travelling from Luang Prabang (when the high speed rail was only just being built) and were dropped off at the bus station 6 km north of the town, located here. From here we jumped into a songthaew and were dropped at our accommodation. If you arrive at this bus station, you can hop into a songthaew to take you into town. The songthaew should cost you 25,000 kip per person.

On our most recent visit we were dropped off on the edge of the old airstrip that dominates the eastern side of town (located here). From there it was only a short walk to our hostel that was located on the main strip. If you’re staying further afield there were plenty of songthaews available to take you to your hostel.

Book your bus tickets to Vang Vieng via 12Go here.

A road curves away from a yellow rice paddy field towards a mountain in Vang Vieng, Laos. — *The drive to Vang Vieng (especially from Phonsavan or Luang Prabang) is stunning!*

A word of warning - Laotian bus rides are not for the faint of heart. Getting anywhere takes a long time as the Laotian road network is very poorly maintained. The roads are littered with potholes and deep crevices and any journey you take will be extremely bumpy!

The buses themselves are usually very old and even if you have bought a ticket, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you will get an actual seat. It’s not uncommon for the bus to be overstuffed with passengers and additional “beer crate” seats added to the aisles. We have 12 seater minivans with 24 people + babies on board!

If you’re booking a bus journey in Laos, our advice would be to get to the bus station early and prepare yourself for a very rough ride!

To read more about travelling by bus in Laos, check out our article where we went off the normal tourist trail and spent a hair-raising 13 hours travelling overnight from Nong Khiaw to Sam Neua. Read more here.

Getting to Vang Vieng by train

The newly opened Laos China Railway (LCR) has helped to put Vang Vieng firmly on the tourist map. Vang Vieng Railway Station sits between Vientiane and Luang Prabang and from both places, you can reach Vang Vieng within an hour!

To put into context just how speedy the railway is: before (or now if you’re cheap backpackers like us) travelling by road between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng would take 8 hours. By high speed train, the journey time is only one hour!

If you’re on a short trip and don’t mind splashing the cash for the luxury of time, travelling by train to reach Vang Vieng is a no-brainer.

Tickets can only be purchased 3 days in advance and sell out extremely fast. To ensure you get a ticket as soon as they’re available to buy, we’d recommend booking your tickets online and in advance.

Vang Vieng’s Railway Station is located 4 km (10 minute drive) north of the town’s main strip (here). Once you arrive at the station there will be plenty of tuk tuk’s and songthaews waiting to take you to your accommodation. To reach town, it’ll cost you 40,000 kip per person.

Book your Laos China Railway tickets via 12Go here.

If you purchase your train tickets via 12Go, train tickets can be “booked” ahead of the 3 day window giving you a good chance to be first in line for tickets.

If you do buy your tickets online you may need to collect the tickets in advance either at the station or from a tour agency nearby. Make sure you read the booking conditions when you purchase your tickets.

For those who are coming to the end of their visa in Thailand then it's very easy to travel from Thailand to Vang Vieng by train. We did this ourselves, travelling from the Thai capital of Bangkok all the way to Vientiane, then taking the high-speed train, via Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. Both train journeys were seamless and super comfy. If you’re looking for a cheap and budget friendly way to get between the two countries, taking the train is a fantastic solution. Read all about our experience on the Laos China Railway here.

Getting to Vang Vieng by air

If Vang Vieng is your first or last stop in your Laos itinerary, the nearest airport to town is Wattay International Airport in Vientiane. The airport has direct flights to Bangkok in Thailand, Hanoi in Vietnam, Phnom Penh in Cambodia plus lots more. The airport also has connections within Laos with flights to Luang Prabang and Sam Nuea in the north and Pakse and Savannakhet in the south. From the airport you’ll either need to arrange a taxi to take you onto Vang Vieng, or head into Vientiane to jump on a bus / train.

A green metal plane sits perched on top of the rocky viewing platform at the top of Pha Honekham Viewpoint. Below the plane, a huge panoramic vista of karsts, mountains and fields stretch out below. — *To imagine what it must be like to fly over the peaks of Vang Vieng just head to the top of the Pha Honekham Viewpoint!*

What to Do in Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng is an outdoor enthusiast's wet dream, with everything from ziplining to spelunking on offer. Whether you’re a sky-bourne junkie or more of a waterbaby, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. Read on to find out how to fill your time in Vang Vieng.

Tipsy Tubing

We couldn’t write this article without mentioning the famous ‘tipsy tubing’ of Vang Vieng!

Tipsy tubing has been a popular activity to do in Vang Vieng for years. The concept is easy. Head upstream and jump in the river. Sit in the middle of your huge, inflatable inner tube, open a beer, float down the Nam Song River and drink some more beers. As you approach the riverside bars prepare to get lassoed in, have some more beers, dance a little and have some lao-lao shots, get back in the river and continue.

Repeat this process again and again until you reach the town of Vang Vieng.

The wild days of ‘tipsy tubing’ have long gone. In 2011 after a spate of tubing related deaths, the Laotian authorities swept in and closed down a lot of the riverside bars. Today, ‘tipsy tubing’ continues, but it's a much more subdued affair with only a couple of bars still in operation along the river. Despite this it’s still a very fun way to spend an afternoon.

Most backpackers head out to the Nam Song River in the mid to late afternoon to reach Vang Vieng in time for sunset.

To book an afternoon tubing, just speak to your hostel or arrange a trip with one of the tour agencies in town. Tubing will cost you 60,000 kip for the trip plus a 60,000 kip deposit for the tube. This will include pick up and drop off at the river as well as rental of a floaty inner tube.

Head out and be prepared to get wet - just make sure you don’t get too tipsy!

We’re not advocating drinking or anything, but if you are heading out for an afternoon tubing, make sure you buy something that has a lid or can be held easily. Unless you want to neck your drink in one go, beer and river water is never the greatest tasting combo! For this reason, you’ll see bottles of soju being a very popular choice in town.

Also it goes without saying, especially after recent events in Vang Vieng, to be especially careful with any free shots / drinks at the bars containing any of the local spirit. Our advice would be to stick with a bottle of the trusty Beer Laos in the bars.

The Vang Vieng viewpoints

Outside of Vang Vieng, the countryside is ringed by huge jagged, limestone karsts. Many of these mountain peaks have viewpoints to climb up giving you panoramic views over the amazing landscape below.

Unlike the trails in Nong Khiaw, we found the hikes in Vang Vieng to be a lot shorter and a lot easier. If you were only in Vang Vieng for a few days you could easily combine a few of these hikes in one day.

Pha Nguen Viewpoint

(location)

The Pha Nguen Trailhead and Viewpoint is the closest mountain peak to town. If you’re short on time and want to get a slice of Vang Vieng from the air, this would be a perfect choice.

When we climbed the mountain, we actually walked to the viewpoint base from town but in hindsight we’d actually recommend heading here via scooter, bicycle or tuk tuk. The walk from town to the base of the hike is along a very dusty road which is full of traffic and has little shade along the way. We arrived sweaty and were still at ground level!

When you arrive at the start of the hike there’s a small ticket office and parking area for scooters. Tickets for the trailhead cost 20,000 kip per person and 5000 kip to park your bike. Once you’ve bought your tickets, take the road that forks to the right where you’ll find a small shop selling snacks, water and soft drinks. Behind this shop is where the fun begins!

The hike started off very steeply with big stone steps carved out of the rock. We naively thought it would be an easy hike, but after about 10 minutes of panting and sweating under the hot Laotian sun we were questioning our stamina. We’d like to blame it on the heat, but the real culprit was more likely to be the late night and many beers at Gary’s Irish Bar the night before!

Jagged green and grey limestone mountains fade away into the distance. Photo taken from the top of the Pha Nguen viewpoint in Vang Vieng. — *Just a small glimpse of the view from the top of Pha Nguen viewpoint!*

Rehydrated with lots of water and a small cookie we continued upwards. After about 20 minutes or so, we reached the shaded part of the hike. A dusty path full of tree roots and small boulders which wound its way through the jungle - it felt like we were walking up the spine of the mountain. Around the halfway mark we reached a small wooden viewpoint. The break in the trees gave us a little insight into what lay in store for the view above. A quick stop and we continued on our way winding up through the jungle. The final part of the hike (around 10 minutes) involved some scrambling and pulling ourselves up ropes over huge carved rocks. One final pullup and the summit of Pha Nguen opened up in front of us.

At the top there is a huge 360 degree wooden platform that gives incredible views over the surrounding craggy mountain peaks, paddy fields and turquoise waters of Blue Lagoon 1. You can even see the viewpoints of Silver Cliff and Nam Xay and the landing field of the Above Laos Balloon HQ!

The main highlight of this viewing platform is the huge red, metal ATV parked on top of one of the rocky points - we dread to think how they got this up here!

John poses for a Go Pro selfie whilst standing on top of a red ATV which has been parked on the jagged rocks of the Pha Nguen viewpoint in Vang Vieng, Laos.

There is a small shop selling snacks, drinks and pot noodles at the viewing platform as well as plenty of benches to relax and take in the view. We spent a good while relaxing, snapping ATV selfies and soaking up the panoramic view.

If you’re heading back to town after climbing this viewpoint we’d recommend stopping at Kiwi Coffee for a caffeinated pick me up!

Pha Nguen Essential Information

Entry fee - Tickets cost 20,000 kip per person plus 5000 kip to park a scooter.

Opening times - The viewpoint is open everyday from 5 AM until 5 PM.

How long does it take to climb Pha Nguen Trailhead Viewpoint?

The walk up took us just under an hour to reach the top and 45 minutes to get back down.

The hike is very easy unless you’ve been on a bender the night before! At the start, the hike is very steep but quickly levels out to a gentle incline. The final 10 minutes does involve some scrambling over rocks but there are always ropes to haul yourself up with. The hike is clearly marked and there is no need for a guide.

Silver Cliff Viewpoint

The Silver Cliff Viewpoint sits on the next mountain over from Pha Nguen peak - in fact you can see its viewing platforms from Pha Nguen itself.

To reach the parking area for the viewpoint just follow the dusty, sandy road that leads off of the main road. At the fork, follow the yellow sign to the left that brings you past a couple of farmhouses and fields until you reach the base and ticket office of Silver Cliff Viewpoint.

Despite being just one peak over, the base of Silver Cliff was completely different to Pha Nguen. A huge green field was dotted with only a few trees and lots of cows - if you didn’t look up, it felt like we could almost be in an English country meadow.

Once we had bought our tickets (20,000 kip each) it was time to begin our hike up 650 metres! The start of the trail is very pretty and leads up stone steps through a small rocky garden full of herbs, plants and bushes. A wooden stile takes you into the jungle where the whole trail follows a dusty path that gently climbs and winds its way up the mountain.

There are a couple of points where you need to clamber up some stone boulders, but they always had ropes or tree roots to pull yourself up with. The walk through the forest was beautiful. We were climbing during the late afternoon and the sun rays basked everything in a beautiful golden light. We were also extremely lucky as we didn’t see another person on the trail, we had it all to ourselves! As we neared the peak, the trees disappeared and the mountain views started to reveal themselves. As we got closer to the viewpoint, the dusty path was replaced with stepped and spiky limestone rocks.

Ellie sits on a motorbike on top of the Silver Cliff Viewpoint in Vang Vieng. Above her a Laotian flag waves in the wind.

The view from the Silver Cliff Viewpoint was incredible. In front of us sat a patchwork of golden paddyfields surrounded by jagged, deep blue mountains. At the top of this peak there is a small covered hut and a motorbike, balanced precariously on the rocks - complete with a huge Laotian flag that fluttered in the breeze. We spent a good half hour taking in the view and snapping many photos whilst posing on the motorbike. Compared to the queues of people waiting for photos at Nam Xay Viewpoint (see later on) it was just us, a motorbike and a huge 360 degree view over Vang Vieng!

As we turned to leave we could see a second viewpoint hiding in the jagged mountain peaks. We followed the path back and found a small fork in the rocks that wound up to the left. We followed this and came to the second viewpoint of Silver Cliff, another stunning panorama. A few photos later and it was time to descend. The way up and down to this second viewpoint involves a lot more scrambling up and over sharp rocks. It doesn’t look as though this route is as well maintained as the main Silver Cliff viewpoint.

A small covered viewing platform is built on top of jagged rocks on top of the Silver Cliff Viewpoint in Vang Vieng. — *The second Silver Cliff Viewpoint hides on a separate craggy outcrop.*

Silver Cliff Viewpoint Essential Information

Entry price - Tickets cost 20,000 kip per person. Parking our scooter was free when we visited.

Opening times - The viewpoint is open everyday from 8 AM until 6 PM.

How long does it take to climb Silver Cliff Viewpoint?

The walk up took us around 40 minutes to reach the first viewpoint and took us about 30 minutes to go back down, including the second viewpoint.

We found this viewpoint to be very easy. It was more of a gentle climb that switchbacked its way up the mountain than a vertical hike. The route was extremely well shaded.

The ticket office had a couple of snacks / soft drinks to buy but we’d recommend packing your own.

Nam Xay Viewpoint

The Nam Xay Viewpoint was definitely the most popular trail we climbed in the whole of Vang Vieng. We arrived at the base of the viewpoint around lunch time and expected it to be quiet at the peak of the midday sun but we were definitely wrong! The whole car park was rammed with parked scooters, minivans and tuk tuks - it looked as though the whole of Vang Vieng was in this car park. Hoping the trail would be quieter, we naively bought our tickets (20,000 kip each) and started the hike up.

As soon as we began our trek up we were immediately thrown into a throng of people ascending and descending the peak. From the very start, the trail is super steep with huge rocks and boulders to clamber over. Where there was a path, it was just dust and tree roots and basically vertical. There were handholds and ropes to help pull you up, but these were often more hassle as there were always people in front or behind you. We’ve climbed all the viewpoints in Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi and so far in our Laos travels, this was definitely the most heavily used trail. The footholds and steps were worn smooth from all the people climbing up.

As you reach the tree line, there’s one final climb over near vertical rocks before the path opens out to an amazing panorama. The viewpoint is extremely impressive. Perched on the top of two jagged peaks, a huge, covered wooden platform gives 360 views out across the plains. There are two motorbikes one on either side of the mountain, giving different views over the valley. Our favourite motorbike was the one which looked out to the northwest over Pha Honekham mountain. The mountain looked like a giant green dragon snaking away behind the bike! It was busy but it was beautiful.

A road curves away towards the horizon and is surrounded on all sides by golden paddy fields and huge limestone mountains. Photo taken from the top of the Nam Xay Viewpoint.

At the bottom of the mountain there is a small restaurant / shop serving small plates, snacks, smoothies, soft drinks and water. We were very much in need of lunch after sweating our way up two viewpoints that morning so ordered some pork fried rice. Topped with some chilli oil, the fried rice was a perfect energy booster!

The Nam Xay Viewpoint is an extremely popular sunset spot. We’re not going to say it wouldn’t be worth it, but if you are planning to climb around sunset make sure you bring a torch. As soon as the sun sets behind the mountain peaks it gets dark extremely quickly. The route down from the viewpoint is full of giant boulders, deep crevices and extremely smooth rocks that are very slippery. We’re going to be boring and say don’t wear flip flops, wear trainers instead and be careful - you really don’t want to break your ankle in Laos!

Nam Xay Viewpoint Essential Information

Entry price - Tickets cost 20,000 kip per person. Parking our scooter was free when we visited.

Opening times - The viewpoint is open everyday from 5 AM until 5 PM.

How long does it take to climb the Nam Xay Viewpoint?

It took 40 minutes for us to climb up to the top and 30 minutes to get back down. The signs when you buy your tickets recommend allowing 30 minutes to get up and down, but as it was so busy when we visited, there was a lot of waiting around on the trail and queuing for the selfie spots at the top.

If we can be honest, from our perspective, we thought this was our least favourite trail in Vang Vieng. The constant flow of people going up and down the mountain peak meant that we were forever stopping and starting. Although the view from the top was incredible, the queues of people waiting to take a selfie really took a little of the magic away. It may have been our fault leaving it to the middle of the day to climb and maybe it would have been better first thing in the morning. Let us know in the comments if it's quieter when you visit.

Pha Honekham Viewpoint

The Pha Honekham Viewpoint is the hike furthest away from town, but was arguably our favourite trail we did in the whole of Vang Vieng.

After we bought our tickets (20,000 kip each) we followed a rocky, stone path that wound its way up into the jungle. It was a beautiful start to the walk. As we climbed higher, small windows opened up through the jungle to give us views over the farmers fields below. After 10 minutes of climbing we reached a junction in the path. The right hand path would take us to the “Pegasus” and the left hand path would take us up to the “aeroplane” viewpoint.

A lot of the Google reviews suggest just picking one viewpoint and heading there. We’d disagree and say go to them both. The views are completely different from each other and it's not a hard walk between them both.

We decided we’d head to the aeroplane first and followed the left hand route as it climbed higher and higher above the treeline. The jungle path was soon replaced with stone corridors made up of huge boulders. As we picked and squeezed our way through these stone guardians, we could see the wings of the aeroplane overhead. Eventually we pulled ourselves up one final stone which revealed the viewpoint. A small metal propeller plane sat on the jagged peak as if it was waiting to take off into the valley below.

John stands in a metal plane with his arms outstretched on top of the Pha Honekham Viewpoint. Behind him mountains stretch away to the horizon.

Sitting in the airplane, the view was spectacular! Down below, the road to Vang Vieng slithered away with one side surrounded by dense green jungle / craggy grey rock and the other side a mosaic of golden paddy fields - it was beautiful! From this viewpoint you could also see the bright white pegasus statue, sitting with its wings outstretched in stark contrast to the dark jungle surrounding it.

After taking a few photos of us in the plane we decided to head to the pegasus. We thought we would need to double back to the junction at the bottom of the rockline, but as you descend down the boulders there is another path that follows the spine of the peak and leads you back up to the pegasus. We followed this route, undulating our way through the trees before climbing up a couple of rocks and coming face to face with the pegasus!

A white pegasus statue stands on a rocky outcrop with its wings outstretched. All around the view drops by hundreds of metres to the valley floors below.

We have absolutely no idea who came up with the idea or how they came about constructing this mega beast on the viewpoint but we do admire them. We expected it to be made out of fibreglass but Mr Pegasus was solid concrete!

After some photos with Mr Pegasus (we called him Eugene), we headed to the viewpoint and took in the sights. Despite being on the same mountain as the aeroplane, the views from the pegasus observation deck were completely different. From here we could see further west, out over small farming villages. Wooden houses rose up out of the valley floor, whilst streams of golden fields wove in and out of forest. It was stunning.

The Pha Honekham Viewpoint also has a cave and a shrine to visit. From the outside the cave looks just like a small opening in the limestone cliff but as we delved deeper, the cavern opened up to huge stalactites and rocky boulders, all lit by holes carved into the mountain above. To reach the shrine we needed to crawl under a rocky crevice which led to a seated buddha wrapped in an orange scarf - well worth the extra time!

Phan Honekham Viewpoint Essential Information

Entry price - Tickets cost 20,000 kip per person. This included entry to both viewpoints, the cave and shrine. Parking for our scooter was free when we visited.

Opening times - The viewpoint is open everyday from 5 AM until 5 PM.

How long does it take to climb the Pha Honekham Viewpoint

We decided to visit both viewpoints first and then the cave and shrine on our way back down. To reach the aeroplane viewpoint from the ticket counter, it took us 15 minutes to climb. From there it was a 15 minute walk across the spine of the mountain to reach the pegasus viewpoint. It took us 30 minutes to get back down the mountain but that involved stopping at both the cave and shrine.

As the viewpoint is located only a short drive away from Blue Lagoon 3 we’d recommend combining a climb / swim together.

Which viewpoint to hike in Vang Vieng?

For us, our favourite viewpoint to hike and the one we’d recommend seeking out is the Pha Honekham Viewpoint. The trailhead to the top of this peak had a bit of everything and for the price of entry, there was so much more to see than just the view from the top. The climb was easy and for most of the walk you’re hiking through a shaded forest. The two viewpoints (the aeroplane and the pegasus statue) gave two completely different views over the valley. If you can only climb one viewpoint, we’d have to say this would be the best. After your climb, it’s only a short drive to Blue Lagoon 3 for a swim.

A white pegasus statue stands next to a covered viewing platform on top of the jagged stone and jungle covered peaks of the Pha Honekham Viewpoint. — *‘Eugene’ the pegasus standing proudly on top of the Pha Honekham viewpoint!*

The majority of travellers seem to flock to the Nam Xay Viewpoint. When we visited and whenever we passed the car park, it was absolutely rammed with other travellers. It seems to be the viewpoint that most of the organised day trips bundle in, so if you are doing any organised tour you may well be climbing it anyway!

If you can and you’re lucky enough to have time on your side, we’d recommend spreading out the viewpoints over a few days. All 4 of the hikes we’ve listed above were fantastic and all had an incredible view over the countryside. Our recommendation would be to hike a viewpoint in the morning and then head to one of the Blue Lagoons in the afternoon for a refreshing dip - trust us, you’ll want a cold swim after sweating up these steep mountainsides!

What to wear to climb the viewpoints?

Comfy, breathable athletic wear and trainers / hiking shoes. Each of the viewpoints involves a lot of scrambling up over sharp and jagged rocks, so good shoes are a must. We wouldn’t recommend attempting the hike in flip flops.

Before you climb, make sure to douse yourself in lots of bug spray as there are lots of mosquitoes just waiting to feast on you!

Also bring lots of water with you - it’s extremely hot and humid and dehydration is no joke.

If you’re planning to hike the viewpoints at sunset, bring a torch for your way down. As soon as the sun sets behind the karsts it gets dark extremely quickly and the routes themselves are not lit.

Ellie stands on a motorbike wearing trainers, black leggings and a black t-shirt whilst waving a Laotian flag on top of the Nam Xay viewpoint in Laos. — *Cool and comfy is the way to go!*

Can you climb all the viewpoints in one day?

Yes, absolutely! If you’re short on time, you could easily climb all the viewpoints in one day. It would be an early start to a challenging day, but it would be easily doable. In fact on our last day in town, we decided to challenge ourselves to our very own ’Vang Vieng 3 Peaks Challenge’. We only decided on 3 peaks and not 4 as we had already climbed Phu Nguen Viewpoint earlier in the week.

Our day of hiking started just after breakfast and we drove straight to Pha Honekham Viewpoint. From there we headed to Nam Xay Viewpoint and then finally finished our day of hiking at the Silver Cliff Viewpoint. We were planning to go for a dip in one of the lagoons at the end of the day, but decided a beer and sunset views would be a better way to celebrate our mini hiking challenge!

A huge mountain peak covered in jungle rises up in front of the viewer in Vang Vieng.

If you are short on time and like a challenge we would really recommend climbing all the viewpoints in one day. It’s an extremely fun challenge and feels like you’ve really accomplished something by the end. As we’ve said above, none of the hikes are super difficult and, depending on fitness levels, we’re sure some of you could much climb quicker than us. We reached Pha Honekham at 10.30am in the morning and were back down from the top of the Silver Cliff Viewpoint at 15.30pm which means we could have easily climbed Phu Nguen in the same day. We didn’t rush ourselves climbing and spent a good amount of time at the peak of all the viewpoints taking photos. If we had left earlier in the morning and arrived at Pha Honekham at opening time, we could easily have climbed all 4 viewpoints and easily have fitted a dip in one of the lagoons after.

Before heading to Laos we would recommend downloading an offline copy of Maps.me. For hiking, it’s a lot more useful than Google as it marks out the hiking trails, the ticket offices and much more. It also seems to be much more up to date than Google’s offerings on the map front!

Swim in the Blue Lagoons

Dotted around Vang Vieng are gorgeous, huge, natural swimming pools. Sitting under the limestone karsts, the pools are named the ‘Blue Lagoons’ due to their vibrant blue and turquoise waters.

Currently there are 5 lagoons open for swimming, with Blue Lagoon 6 temporarily closed. The most popular sites to visit are Blue Lagoon 1, Blue Lagoon 2 and Blue Lagoon 3.

Blue Lagoon 1 is the most popular and can get extremely busy with tour groups. Most of the day trips and hotel packages out of Vang Vieng will include a visit to this lagoon. We didn’t visit it as everytime we passed by, there was always a traffic jam of minivans and ATVs trying to get into the carpark. During our time in Vang Vieng we visited Blue Lagoon 2 and 3. Next time we’d like to visit them all.

Blue Lagoon 2

Blue Lagoon 2 is stunning. A huge park with two natural pools of blue green water sitting amongst massive limestone karsts. Surrounding both the lagoons are plenty of huts, benches and trees to laze on or under. This lagoon sits in prime position and keeps the sun all day, so it’s a perfect lagoon to head to if you’re planning a day lounging in the sun.

The pool to the right has a jumping off platform and a slide (that wasn’t in use when we visited) and the pool to the left has a zip line running into the centre of the lagoon. Both lagoons are big enough for you to swim in without ever feeling cramped or crowded.

We enjoyed a few afternoons basking in the sun, taking a dip in the water to cool down and swimming across the huge lagoon. We absolutely loved this site as it was so pretty. Both lagoons were surrounded by huge trees and the atmosphere was so laid back with everyone sunbathing, swimming or reading books.

Two girls swim in the vibrant blue and green waters of Blue Lagoon 2.

Blue Lagoon 2 always felt a lot quieter than Blue Lagoon 3 and we never struggled to get our own little corner to ourselves. The pools themselves were also a lot quieter with only a small handful of people swimming in each pool at any one time.

Ticket prices: Entry to Blue Lagoon 2 costs 20,000 kip per person.

Opening times: Lagoon 2 is open everyday from 9 AM until 5:30 PM.

Blue Lagoon 3

Blue Lagoon 3 is the furthest lagoon away from the town and seems to be the unofficial hostel common room for most of the backpackers in Vang Vieng.

A huge rectangle natural pool sits underneath a towering, jungle clad cliff face. The lagoon is bright turquoise and there is plenty of space to swim or float on the bamboo rafts in the cool waters. For the adventure seekers, there are jumping off platforms, a balance beam, a swing and a zip-line.

Young backpackers swim in the turquoise waters of Blue Lagoon 3. On the wooden zipline and frame a girl in a bikini gets ready to jump in Vang Vieng, Laos.

There is also a cave at the lagoon site that carves its way into the limestone peaks. As we didn’t fancy a crawl underground in a dark narrow passage - according to some travellers we spoke to the tunnels get very narrow - we decided against it. If you are into your hidden, underground caverns, you can rent torches from the shop on-site for 10,000 kip. The cave has a circular route that takes you through some caverns, before spitting you out at a viewpoint overlooking the lagoon.

We had an amazing couple of afternoons just relaxing in the water, attempting to zip-line across the pool and enjoying delicious plates of steaming fried noodles all whilst chatting to other travellers. Blue Lagoon 3 is a very sociable place.

The drive to Lagoon 3 was a highlight just in itself. As we travelled further and further away from Vang Vieng town, the road became quieter and the landscape even more stunning. We passed through small villages, past herds of cattle and crossed over crystal clear rivers. As we reached Lagoon 3, we turned off the main road and headed down a dirt track surrounded on both sides by farmers tending to their rice paddy fields and buffalo wallowing, all under the shadow of the terrifyingly tall limestone karsts - Laos never ceases to amaze us with its beauty.

Ticket prices: Entry to Blue Lagoon 3 costs 20,000 kip per person.

Opening times: Lagoon 3 is open everyday from 8 AM until 6:30 PM.

As the lagoon sits directly underneath the limestone cliffs, Blue Lagoon 3 gets very little sunlight. By mid-morning, it’s completely in shadow. We didn’t feel the cold too much as when we visited the temperature was well over 30 degrees celsius but if you’re planning to sun-bathe we’d recommend Blue Lagoon 2 over Blue Lagoon 3.

Which Blue Lagoon should I visit?

This is a tricky one as we loved our time at both Blue Lagoon 2 and 3 equally, but if we had to choose our favourite one, it would have to go to Blue Lagoon 3. Despite being the most popular lagoon we visited, it still had a great chilled out vibe. We loved soaking up the laid back atmosphere with the other backpackers, swimming in the lagoon itself and watching everyone swing and zipline over the water. If you were a solo traveller, this would be the best place to meet other travellers as it was full of backpackers.

If you are looking for some downtime in the sun, swimming and a book, Blue Lagoon 2 would be the obvious choice. You could easily spend a full day relaxing on the lawns, taking a dip and just enjoyed a day in the sun.

Young couples swim in the green waters of the natural swimming pool at Vang Vieng's Blue Lagoon 2. Behind jungle and stall mountains rise up.

If you can, our best advice would be to visit them both as they’re only a short drive away from each other. If you’re already at Blue Lagoon 3 then to get back to town means you’ll literally be passing by the entrance to Blue Lagoon 2.

Take a sunset or sunrise flight

The best way to see Vang Vieng is from above, and we don’t just mean viewpoints! From the town you can choose to take a hot air balloon or a paramotoring flight and get a birds eye view over the dramatic landscape.

A multi-coloured hot air balloon glides alongside vertical limestone mountains in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Hot air balloons of Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng boasts being one of the cheapest places in the world to take a hot air balloon ride.

There are plenty of balloon operators in town offering sunrise and sunset flights but we would recommend checking out Above Laos Ballooning who we chose to take us on an amazing ride at sunset. We've written a whole guide to hot air ballooning which covers everything including which company to choose, what to expect and our experience riding in a hot air balloon over Vang Vieng. Read more below:

Laos

Floating Above Laos - A Hot Air Balloon Ride in Vang Vieng

If Above Laos Ballooning is sold out for your dates, check out this hot air balloon flight package on Get Your Guide here.

Paramotoring

If you'd rather fly with a motor than with flame, then why not give paramotoring a go. Paramotoring flights take off all day from sunrise to sunset and a flight is around 30 minutes.

There are plenty of operators in town offering a ride, or you can book this trip in advance with Get Your Guide here.

Both hot air balloon and paramotoring flights sell out extremely quickly, so if you're planning to ride above the clouds, book your slot well in advance.

Also note that both activities can be cancelled at short notice if there's bad weather. We had to reschedule our flight once due to this during our recent stay and on our first trip to Vang Vieng our hot air balloon ride was cancelled all together.

Watch the sunset

If you’ve been avid readers of our blog or have followed us on Instagram then you’ll know that we love watching a good sunset. Vang Vieng was no exception. The town sits facing west and the sun sets directly over the Nam Song River and mountains creating an incredible fiery display.

Our favourite spot to watch the sunset was from the Pull Mind Cafe (location) where we could get front row seats to watch the hot air balloons take their sunset flights.

The sunsets over the mountains, river and town of Vang Vieng. Above the rooftops a colourful hot air balloon flys overhead.

If you’re on a budget, you could easily head to one of the fields outside of town and watch the sunset from there.

Other Things to Do in Vang Vieng

For those who want a taste of Vang Vieng’s infamous ‘tipsy tubing’ but don’t necessarily want to spend the whole afternoon floating slowly downstream; why not rent a canoe or kayak and paddle your way down the Nam Song River. You’ll still get to see the same river views, but you’ll just get back to town that much quicker.

If the underworld is more your thing, then there are plenty of other caves to explore than just the one at Blue Lagoon 3, why not check out the Tham Nam (water cave) or the Angel Cave. If you’re planning your own spelunking adventure, just remember to pack a torch - in all of the Laotian caves we’ve visited we’ve found our mobile torches to be pretty useless in the pitch black!

For those who want a taste of flying but who cannot justify the cost of a hot air balloon or paramotoring experience then there are a few places to zipline outside Vang Vieng. The most popular spot is at Blue Lagoon 1 but there is also another zipline at the Angel Cave in Namsong or further north still, a zipline course with TCK zipline co.

If you’ve had your fill of adrenaline and want to swim in a more lux-ey environment, then you could spend the day swimming in an actual pool. The Silver Naga Hotel in town offers non-residents the chance to use their pool for 100,000 kip per day. We stayed at the hotel on our first visit and can vouch that their pool is awesome with a beautiful view out over the river and mountains. We were very tempted on our stay this time to splash the cash and spend a lazy afternoon splashing in their pool.

For those who really want to chill out, why not relax with a Laotian massage! Dotted all over the town are massage parlours offering everything from neck, leg to full body massages. Just shop around to see which place takes your fancy. We really regretted not getting a massage ourselves. We had a minor backpacking fail and planned our 3 peak hiking challenge on the last day of our stay in the town. A massage the next day would have been the perfect cure for our aching muscles!

If you’re planning a day relaxing in town, Wat Si Sou Mang, Wat Kang and Wat That are worth a visit. The temples are all very different, showcasing intricate red and gold carvings, golden Buddhist statues and colourfully tiled naga statues. If you’re planning to visit any of these temples, just remember to dress respectfully!

Golden Buddha statues, sit guarding the outside the red and gold temple of Wat Si Sou in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Two multiple headed pink and gold naga statues line Wat Si Sou Mang temple in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Day Trips and Tours in Vang Vieng

If you are on a shorter backpacking trip and have only a few days in Vang Vieng, you could easily combine a lot of the attractions into just one full day of sightseeing. You could do this independently by hiring a scooter, or if you’d prefer to have someone else sort everything out for you, then there are plenty of day tours available to book in town.

Our advice would be to speak to your hostel or head to any of the tour agencies in town to see what’s on offer. We saw plenty of day trips advertised that combined a hike up a viewpoint, a swim in one of the Blue Lagoons as well as a cave visit, kayaking and much, much more. Each tour agency seemed to offer a whole menu of different activities which could be combined in full or half day tours. Depending on how long you have in the town, what you want to do and how many activities you want to pack in, there are a whole host of different tour combinations for you to choose from. We’d recommend shopping around to see what suits you best and to get an idea of prices.

Most of the out-of-town attractions in Vang Vieng are a good distance away and are not really walkable. If you are not confident riding a scooter then a tour will save you money on taxi fares!

If you’re really short on time and would prefer to have everything booked in advance, then why not check out Get Your Guide who offer a whole host of different tours. Click here to book a trip.

Yellow and green paddy fields stretch out like a patchwork in Vang Vieng.

Getting Around Vang Vieng

All of Vang Vieng’s attractions are located a short drive away from the main town so you will need your own wheels.

If you’ve booked a tour through an agency in town or on Get Your Guide, it will almost 100% of the time include a pick up and drop off at your hostel / guesthouse.

Renting a bicycle in Vang Vieng

If you can’t drive a scooter and want to save money on hiring a driver, then hiring a bicycle would be a good way to get about the countryside of Vang Vieng.

In town we passed by several different bicycle rental shops hiring out everything from high-end mountain bikes full of gears to the bog standard bikes found the world-over. From our window shopping in town, it looked as though prices varied from one shop to the next, with full day rentals priced at between 60,000 kip to 90,000 kip per day.

If you’re planning to rent a bicycle, we’d recommend shopping around to find the best bike / price for your needs.

The roads around Vang Vieng are very flat, but are definitely not the smoothest roads you’ll ever encounter. They are littered with potholes, deep crevices, sand and mud and are full with minivans, ATVs, scooters and songthaews blowing up dust. If you’re hiring a bike make sure to wear sunglasses as it can be a very dusty ride.

Renting a scooter / motorbike

Hiring a scooter is by far the easiest and cheapest way to see the best of Vang Vieng. There are plenty of scooter rental shops in town and the majority of hostels will rent you a bike.

Whenever we needed a scooter, we rented one from our accommodation, Lily Backpacker’s Hostel, for 150,000 kip for the day.

If you are planning to rent a scooter, make sure you check the bike beforehand, request helmets for all passengers and ride sensibly. The roads in Laos are not for the weak - they can get extremely busy, there’s often animals and children to contend with and they’re littered with potholes.

John sits on top of a scooter at the top of the Nam Xay Viewpoint waving a Laotian flag. — *We wouldn’t recommend renting this scooter!*

The quickest way to get across the Nam Song River is via the ‘Old Bridge’ located here. If you’re on a scooter we really cannot recommend this route. The bridge can only be described in two words - ‘super sketchy’! Even just walking across the bridge has you questioning whether you’re going to make it to the otherside.

The bridge “repairs” look like someone's school project that’s been thrown together at the last minute, There are large holes in the bridge, planks and logs just thrown down to cover gaps and where they have attempted to nail the wood down, there’s huge, centimetre long nails just sticking out. It’s sketchy enough to walk over the bridge on foot, let alone on two wheels.

We saw plenty of scooters struggling to get across and plenty of backpackers questioning their choice of route. We’d say if you are planning to take this route, make sure you’re super confident on the bike and if you have a passenger, maybe ask them to get off and walk over whilst you try and navigate the moving logs!

If you don’t take this route, there’s an easy 5km detour that takes you out of town, past Vang Vieng’s local market and over the Nam Xong Bridge located here.

A red metal and wooden bridge crosses the Nam Ou River. In the image you can see lots of the planks are missing. — *It doesnt look so bad at the start…..*

Hiring an ATV

As soon as you’ve crossed the Nam Song River you’ll see plenty of bright red ATVs zooming along the dusty roads. These open-roofed ATVs looked great fun to get around. You can choose to hire an ATV for 2 or 4 people, so it would be a great choice if there was a group of you.

We were very tempted to hire an ATV but as we’re on a strict backpacking budget we decided to stick with our trusty 2 wheels.

To rent an ATV, prices start at 300,000 kip per hour. Not a deal breaker if you’re on a holiday, but expensive if you’re backpacking.

There are also multiple tours and activities that include an ATV ride / drive.

A red ATV sits on top of the limestone rocks at the Pha Nguen viewpoint of Vang Vieng, Laos. — *Maybe don’t try to do the viewpoints in the ATV!*

Gettting around by tuk-tuk / Songthaew

Parked outside the hostels and found throughout town are plenty of tuk tuk and songthaew drivers waiting to take you to wherever you want to go.

These drivers can take you to wherever you need to go and you can even hire them for a whole day to wait for you whilst you swim / hike.

If you’re planning to hire a driver, just remember to negotiate the price. If you can get a group together from your hostel, the cost to hire a driver will obviously be a lot lower than if you are on your own.

Where to Stay in Vang Vieng - Hostels, Guesthouses and all Other Accommodation

Whatever your backpacking style, Vang Vieng has no shortage of accommodation choices with plenty of cheap, budget friendly hostels and guesthouses to choose from.

We had a fantastic stay at Lily Backpackers Hostel where we stayed in a private en-suite room with a balcony. Our room was small, but was perfect for our needs, with a comfy bed and just enough space to store our backpacks. We loved the view from the balcony which overlooked the town and the mountains beyond. Our cheap stay even included breakfast every morning.

The hostel has plenty of dorm rooms to book, a pool table and big common room to relax in. The staff were also super helpful for booking onward transport or day trips. They arranged our bus tickets for the best price we found in town (pickup included!).

Book your stay at Lily’s hostel here.

Vang Vieng rooftops stretch away from the viewer to a background of blue, limestone karst mountains. Taken from a double room with a balcony at the Lily Backpackers Hostel. — *Our balcony view from Lily Backpackers hostel!*

If you’re after a more sociable hostel, we’ve heard great things from other backpackers about the Mad Monkey Hostel and the Vang Vieng Rock Backpackers Rooftop Hostel.

There are plenty of hostels on offer around town, some with swimming pools and some with their own cafe / bar - check out all the hostels available to book in Vang Vieng here.

On our first stay in Vang Vieng, when we weren’t on a tight budget, we had a fantastic stay at the Silver Naga Hotel located right on the banks of the Nam Song. We had a super comfy double room with views over the swimming pool, river and mountains beyond. The price of the room was obviously a lot more than what we paid at Lily’s but if you’re after a little bit of luxury, it’s a solid choice.

To book your stay in Vang Vieng and to see all the accommodation available. Check out the map below.

Where to Eat and Drink in Vang Vieng

There’s one thing we’ll guarantee and that is that you’ll never go hungry in Vang Vieng! Despite being a small town, Vang Vieng is packed to the rafters with places to eat. From sushi to pasta, banh mi to croissants and fried rice to barbecued meats, whatever you fancy and whatever your budget, there’ll be something to suit your cravings. There’s even a 7-11 store for those backpackers missing their cheese and ham toasties!

Check out our Vang Vieng food and drink guide below (click on the picture) where we share some of our favourite places to eat in the town, including where you can get a delicious wonton noodle soup and possibly the best Full English breakfast we’ve eaten outside of the UK.

Laos

Is Vang Vieng Still a Backpacker Destination?

Vang Vieng is definitely still a popular backpacker destination, in fact during the whole of our three years of travels, we’d say Vang Vieng was the place we saw the most backpackers - Pai (Northern Thailand) being a close second. The town is still very much orientated to backpackers, with plenty of hostels, budget accommodation, cheap street food and bars a plenty.

We can’t say things aren’t changing though. Compared to our first visit in 2018, things have changed a lot. Loads of new large hotels have been built, new cafes and restaurants have opened up and it looks as though there is a growing trend in Vang Vieng towards catering to other kinds of tourism apart from just the backpacker scene. It seems the opening up of the railway has opened Vang Vieng to the older tourist. During our stay there seemed to be lots of tour groups focussed on older travellers.

To answer the original question though, we would say yes, Vang Vieng is still a backpacker destination. If you’re looking for a cheap stay, full of budget friendly activities and a place where you can meet other travellers like you, Vang Vieng ticks all the boxes. Every hostel we passed was packed to the rafters with other backpackers and wherever you looked, there was always a new stream of heavily laden travellers arriving.

Thatched bamboo woven bungalows sit in front of the Laotian jungle and tall limestone mountains in Vang Vieng town. — *Even with all the development that has taken place in Vang Vieng over the years, there are still cheap, budget friendly stays to be found!*

Is Vang Vieng Just a Party Town?

We couldn’t write this article without acknowledging this question.

Vang Vieng has always had a reputation of being a party town and if you do a quick search of the town on Google, it’ll bring up plenty of newspaper articles referring to the town as a notorious party town full of cheap, unregulated alcohol, drugs, and late night raves. For years now, the town has had this image of being ‘the dangerous party town’. Whilst there are parties and all the other late night debauchery associated with young backpackers, there is so much more to the town than this.

For those of you who are party animals, there’s definitely still a party scene in the town, but if you’re not a raver, fear not, the town has plenty of quiet and relaxing places to stay and hang out. From our perspective we’re definitely not late night ravers, but we still had some great nights out in the bars of Vang Vieng.

If you’re not into parties, loud music and dance floors, make sure you do your research on where to stay in the town. From our accommodation (Lily’s Backpackers Hostel) in the south of the town, we were a good 10 minute walk away from the late night bars so didn’t have any trouble with noise. There are dedicated “party hostels” so do your research and book what suits your style!

A bottle of Beer Laos is held up to the camera in front fo the setting sun at the Pull Mind Cafe in Vang Vieng, Laos.

Is Vang Vieng Safe?

We hate to answer this one, but following the recent headlines it’s probably the most Googled question. Is Vang Vieng safe?

Yes - Vang Vieng is safe!

Obviously, like anywhere in this world, things can happen but this isn’t a specific “Vang Vieng problem”. The stories circling the media following the methanol poisonings in 2024 seemed to suggest that if you’re a backpacker heading to Vang Vieng then you had no choice but to down shots and take drugs. This is far from the case.

According to the media Vang Vieng is some kind of debauchery filled drug den. Some lawless town, full of shady bars and dangerous criminals. This is not the case. Vang Vieng is a backpacker town through and through. You can clutch your pearls at the “happy menu” in some of the bars but the media view of Vang Vieng is not reflective of reality. Yes there are free shots, yes there are some questionable offers in some of the bars but honestly it is no different to what you’ll find the world-over. If you put young people near bars there will always be a bit of drunkenness and the occasional tragedy, but Vang Vieng is no more dangerous than a Thai island, Sydney or a night out in London.

Nobody is going to force you to drink or do drugs, it’ll always be your choice and as with anywhere in this world, just exercise common sense and your usual caution.

The tragedy with the methanol poisonings is that it can and does happen to anyone, anywhere in the world, it is not a uniquely Vang Vieng issue.

*It’s our second time in Vang Vieng and it’s still big smiles all round!*

Where to go After Vang Vieng?

From Vang Vieng you basically have three choices - head north, head south or cross the border into Thailand.

Heading directly north will take you onto the UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang - full of temples, a busy night market and the beautiful Kuang Si Falls. From there, you can head even further north to the mountains of Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi or take the world famous slow boats up the Mekong river to Huay Xai on the Thailand border. For those into their history, you can take the lesser traveller route and head north east to see the mysterious ‘Plain of Jars’ at Phonsavan.

For those wanting to head down to Southern Laos, the next obvious stop on any backpacking itinerary is the sleepy Laotian capital of Vientiane. Beyond this, lies the famous motorbike loops of Thakhek and the Bolaven Plateau at Pakse. Further south still, lie the 4000 Islands at Don Det and the Cambodian border.

If you’ve reached the end of your visa, you can easily head into Thailand crossing the Laos / Thailand border at Thanaleng just outside of Vientiane. From there you could head into Isan or catch a bus / train all the way south to the Thai capital of Bangkok.

For those who don’t mind a long journey you can even catch sleeper buses to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in Cambodia or to Hanoi, Vinh, Danang and Hue in Vietnam.

Wherever you decide to go after Vang Vieng, to book your bus or railway tickets just speak to your hostel, a tour agency or book online in advance via 12Go.

Is Vang Vieng Worth a Stop?

Absolutely 100% - if we didn't think so we wouldn't have written this travel guide!

We were a little sceptical about visiting this time round - we had great memories from our first trip here and were worried things would have changed too much. But, honestly, we loved our time here. There was so much to do, the viewpoints were amazing and the Blue Lagoons were a perfect spot to unwind in.

No-one can ever say that the town of Vang Vieng is a looker, but the town itself isn’t why you’re there - it’s the countryside around it. As you leave the droves of tourists, 4x4s and minivans behind and head a little deeper down the valley, you’ll find empty roads, beautiful paddy fields, small villages and towering limestone cliffs. The views over the countryside from the top of the viewpoints are amazing and worth a trip to Vang Vieng just by themselves.

We have absolutely loved both our visits to Vang Vieng and can easily see us being drawn back to its laid back charm again. It’s an obvious stop on any Laotian backpacking itinerary, and it’ll always have a special place in our hearts.

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

All Our Laos Travel Guides

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Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

Muang Ngoi - A Hidden Riverside Treasure In Northern Laos

The 100 Waterfalls Trek - A Day Out Hiking From Nong Khiaw

Food in Luang Prabang - A Guide to the Best Places to Eat

Thailand to Laos - The Bangkok to Vientiane Express Train

Laotian Luxury in Luang Prabang

Nong Khiaw - The Complete Guide

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Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars is Laos' most enigmatic ancient wonder. The small central Laotian city of Phonsavan is surrounded by giant stone-hewn jars. From small clusters huddled on a hillside to vast, hundreds strong stone forests, the vessels of the Plain of Jars are Laos' Stonehenge: mysterious, magical and steeped in little known history.

The Plain of Jars brings in tourists, scientists, archaeologists and conspiracy theorists from all over the world. The city of Phonsavan (sometimes spelled Phonesavan) is the base for exploring the various sites of the Plain of Jars, but it too is worth a deeper look.

This is our guide to the Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars; what history we know, what to do in Phonsavan town and whether it is worth the long ride to visit.

What is the Plain of Jars? A Quick History

Strap in folks, its time for another Jellie attempt at history! Here is our very (very) brief guide to the known history of the Plain of Jars:

The Plain of Jars is one of Asia's most intriguing megalithic mysteries. The huge Xiang Khouang Plateau surrounding Phonsavan city is studded with vast fields of massive stone 'jars'. Towering up to three and bit meters (ten feet!) tall, these 'jars' can weigh nearly ten tonnes! No one is completely sure why, when or even how these jars came to be there but they can be found by the hundreds, spread over at least 90 sites throughout the region.

The Plain of Jars spans a huge swathe of history with jars being found from multiple ancient time periods. The oldest of the sites in the Plain of Jars has been dated to the the very earliest period of the Iron Age (1200BC). The massive scale of the jars, sheer number of them and the humungous effort it would have taken an Iron Age society to construct them shows just how important the Plain of Jars must have been to the people of the time.

John and Ellie pose next to the "Kings Jar" at Site 1 of the Plain of Jars. The Jar is much taller and at least 4 times wider than either of them. There is a indented lip opening visable in the top. — *They dont call them jars for nothing! This is the “Kings Jar” of Site 1 - the largest yet found.*

The jars vary in shape, size and position throughout the site. They all are hollow with an opening at the top and were carved out of the rock in quarries in the surrounding hills. Some of the jars had to have been moved over 8km from the quarry to their final position - no mean feat for stones weighing up to 10 tonnes!

The exact use and purpose of the Plain of Jars is hotly debated. Archaeologists agree that the sites are all burial places, the stones marking huge ancient graveyards. This is where most of the agreement ends however. There is evidence of both cremation and 'natural burial' at multiple sites. Site One (see later about visiting the sites), even appears to have a 'crematorium', however even this is fiercely debated. No one seems to be able to agree on anything at the Plain of Jars. There have been human remains found inside and outside the jars, cremated, buried or even stored whole. The sites are a confusing mix of centuries of burial customs, making it hard to say what their 'true' use was.

Our wonderful guide to the Plain of Jars (more on him later) was full of theories, local legends and speculation. One old theory was that each jar was a family grave, where the dead were stored until they decomposed and then buried nearby. The size of the jar presumably indicating the wealth and importance of the family. Our guide pointed out the impracticality of this theory: "What if you have just buried grampa in the jar when suddenly dad dies? Do you squash down grampa to make room?!"

John, Ellie and Mr Kong all look down through a jars opening. The shot is taken from inside the Jar at Site 3 of the Plain of Jars, Laos — *“Is there room in there for Uncle?”*

Most of the jars in the various sites have 'lips' on the openings, meaning that, at one point, they had lids. Only a few stone 'lids' have been found in the Plain of Jars so it is thought that the lids must have been made of wood or something else that naturally decomposed. On the ground around the jars are circular stone tablets, not lids but grave markings. Human remains have been found under these stones, hinting that they buried people both in the jars and in the ground around them. Whether it was many different cultures all using the same sites across the centuries or a multi-stage burial process is another of the mysteries of the Plain of Jars.

A carved circular stone sits, shattered in three, in the grass and leaves of the Plain of Jars Site 3 — *One of the many cicrular stone grave markers you can find on the ground in the Plain of Jars - this one is from Site 3*

The Local Legends of the Plain of Jars

One of the Laotian Legends about the Plain of Jars is that is was a prehistoric party site! No, we are serious!

Legend has it that the Giant King (Khun Cheung) wanted to celebrate a massive military victory. The King called a get-together for all the giants and stated the Xiang Khouang plateau as the party venue. Giants came from all around carrying their rice whiskey (Lau-Lau) in enormous jars. The largest site of the Plain of Jars is where the main party happened, with the giants leaving their empty whiskey jars all over the ground. The smaller sites dotted around the plain are explained away as being where giants from further away got bored / impatient and cracked open their whiskey early, drinking the booze and leaving the jars before they even arrived at the main party!

The Plain of Jars has been repeatedly fought over. From marauding bandits from ancient Southern China, to the much more recent mass bombings from the USA in the "Secret War" (check out our guide to the Victory Caves of Vieng Xai for more information) the lootings, battles and bombings meant that it is hard to say exactly what the sites originally looked like or what they were used for. For much of the recent past, the Plain of Jars was dangerous to explore due to the massive amount of unexploded bombs in the area. Even today you can see the remains of trenches, anti-aircraft encampments and even a couple of rusting USAF planes.

Nowadays a few of the sites have been meticulously renovated and opened to the public. This was no mean feat as the bombings meant that the sites had to be cleared by the brave people of MAG UXO Laos (more on them later). The main sites have now been made safe and the whole area has been given coveted UNESCO World Heritage Status due to its huge historical significance.

Two Jars, one broken one intact sit on the hilltop at Site 1 of the Plain of Jars, Laos. On the next hilltop a golden Buddha is seated.

Where is the Plain of Jars?

The Plain of Jars is located in Central Laos. The 'Plain of Jars' is actually made up of many sites (over 90) but the most popular ones to visit are clustered around the city of Phonsavan.

Phonsavan sits around 165 miles east of Luang Prabang or 150 miles northeast of Vang Vieng.

You can find Phonsavan on a map here. The most popular sites in the Plain of Jars are sites One, Two and Three and you can find them here, here and here.

Just next to Site One is the Plain of Jars Visitors Centre which we would highly recommend visiting for a better explanation of the history!

How to get to Plain of Jars and Phonsavan City

The best way for most people to get to the Plain of Jars will be via a bus to the capital of the Xieng Khouang province Phonsavan. Once in Phonsavan you can get a tour to the different Plain of Jars sites or rent a bike and drive there yourselves - more on this later but we would actually recommend a tour - very out of character for us!

Luang Prabang to Phonsavan by bus

If you are starting your journey in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Luang Prabang (and why wouldn't you it is amazing check out our guide here), then you can take a minivan all the way to Phonsavan.

You can book a bus throughout the town at an agent or if you want it sorted in advance: book online with 12go here

Online shows three minivans per day and a 7-8 hour ride. However, this being Laos take the timings and duration with a pinch of salt! Always arrive early to the bus station to get a good seat.

Vang Vieng to Phonsavan by bus

This route is not shown online but is definitely possible - we actually did it in reverse, travelling from Phonsavan down to Vang Vieng. The trip takes around 8 hours and can be booked at travel agents throughout the town or in person at the Northern Bus Terminal in Vang Vieng. We paid 270,000 kip per ticket for the Phonsavan to Vang Vieng journey - we booked through our hostel and this price included a pick up to the bus station so was more expensive.

Vientiane to Phonsavan by bus or plane

The Laotian capital is over 300km by road away from Phonsavan. Buses take between 10-13 hours depending on the road conditions. You can book three daily buses online with 12Go here to guarantee a seat in advance. Two of the buses are overnight sleeper style, the morning departure is a minivan. Alternatively you could book this in person by heading to the Southern Bus Terminal - there are at least 2 more daily minivans that go to Phonsavan than are listed online and, if they aren't there, you can book the overnight sleeper bus nearby.

If time is of the essence and you don't mind the significant extra expense you can fly from Vientiane to Phonsavan (Xieng Khouang) airport. There is one flight daily and it cuts the journey from 10-13 hours to 30 minutes! Check out the flight prices here.

Phonsavan Airport is currently being renovated it is closed until at least the end of May 2025.

Vieng Xai / Sam Neua to Phonsavan by bus

The minivan from Sam Nuea (gateway to Vieng Xai) to Phonsavan runs in the morning at 8:30am. In busy times there may be a second minivan in the afternoons (around 3:30pm). The minivans take around 8 hours between Sam Nuea (sometimes called Xam Neua or Xamnuea). We paid 260,000 kip per person for our tickets. We bought the tickets directly from Sam Neua Western Bus Station, we couldn't find any way to book them online.

You can also get the daily coach bus from Xam Nuea to Vientiane as it stops at Phonsavan. The coach was listed as departing at 1PM but make sure you check with the bus station!

Xam Nuea, Vieng Xai and Nong Khiaw - A different route through Northern Laos

If you read the above and wondered what and where Sam Nuea and Vieng Xai are make sure you check out our article on the amazing caves and town of Vieng Xai.

For the adventurous Vieng Xai provides another possible route for exploring Northern Laos, one which connects Nong Khiaw to Phonsavan without having to double back through Luang Prabang. Read all about it here:

A different route through Northern Laos

Which Sites should you visit in the Plain of Jars?

The Plain of Jars is split into over 90 sites scattered far and wide over the Xieng Khouang region. You cannot access all of them (not all have been cleared of unexploded bombs yet) and they vary wildly in how many "jars" they contain.

We spent most of a day visiting the Plain of Jars and got to three separate sites. We visited the three "main sites" (inventively called Site One, Site Two and Site Three). Site One is the largest of all of the Plain of Jars sites and contains the "Kings Jar" or "Victory Cup" (the jar the mythical giant king drank from), the biggest "Jar" discovered so far. Site 2 is a beautiful forested site split over two hills with jars in amongst the trees and, on the other hill, commanding amazing panoramic views over the countryside. Site 3 is stunning, a large collection of "Jars" on the side of a hill accessed via a short but beautiful walk through paddy fields. If you, like us, were limited on time then these three sites are perfect for a day of exploration in the Plain of Jars.

Green grass rolls into the Jar littered forest of Phonsavan's Plain of Jars Site 3. — *This is Site 3 - it really is a unique and beautiful place.*

All three of the sites are within a short drive from Phonsavan town - find them on Google Maps here:

If you have a little longer and do not mind travelling a bit further then there are dozens more sites, quarries and ancient ruins to find and explore. Check out the brilliant Plain of Jars Archaeological Research Projects website for the most complete list. If you are looking for inspiration make sure you head to the Xieng Khouang Tourist Office where there is loads of information on the more accessible sites. We do not usually recommend tourist offices but this one was actually more of a museum - read more about it later in this article.

Visiting the Plain of Jars independently

You can absolutely make your own way to the various sites in the Plain of Jars. Just head into Phonsavan (or check with your accommodation) and rent a scooter or hire a driver for the day. The sites are too spread out to be walkable but with some motorised transport you can easily get between them.

A large open-topped army jeep sits alongside rental scooters at the Kong Keo Guesthouse in Phonsavan. — Kong Keo Geusthouse will rent you more than just a scooter!

We would not recommend using a pushbike to get between the main sites as it would involve quite a while on large, traffic laden roads. If you are really dedicated and confident, Site One is only 10km from Phonsavan town and is the closest Plain of Jars...

If you are visiting without a guide then we would highly recommend stopping by the Xieng Khouang Tourist Office as well as the official Plain of Jars Visitors Centre. The Visitors Centre is next to the ticket office for Site One so is hardly out of your way! Both the tourist office and the visitors centre give a helpful overview of the known history of the Plain of Jars as well as the story of their recent war ridden past and current archaeological discoveries.

Large bombs all stand in rusting lines at the Phonsavan Tourist Information Centre. above a signboard gives information about the conflics suffered by Laos. — *We never really bother with tourist offices but the Phonsavan one was much more of a museum!*

We recommend the visitors centre and the tourist office to independent travellers as the sites themselves do not come with very much explanation! Site One (the largest) barely has any information at all and Sites Two and Three have none whatsoever. On one hand this is great as there are no placards or garish information boards to distract you from the amazing sights, however, it does mean that you don't really know what you are looking at.

Finding Sites 2 and 3 in the Plain of Jars

We had a guide so had no issues locating the “Sites” in the Plain of Jars, but one look at the Google reviews convinced us to add this little section:

Finding Site 2

Site two is actually 2 different sites on neighbouring hills. As you exit the carpark you follow a path between these two hills. On the left hand hill is the forest jars and the right hand is the panoramic view and hilltop jars.

Finding Site 3

This is the site most independant travellers found hardest to find. From the carpark (in the temple grounds), take the narrow bridge behind the ticket counter and you will find youself in a beautiful set of paddy fields with water buffalo grazing around. Head roughly straight forward (as straight as you can get following the paths in a paddy field). You should come to a small stream with a path and vegatable gardens on the left (this may be seasonal). Follow the path up the hill until you get to the gate to Site 3.

The Plain of Jar sites are incredible even if you have no idea what they are or the history, but to really get the most out of a trip to Phonsavan we would recommend a tour - more on that in a moment, we usually are very independant travellers but Phonsavan made for a worthy exception to our normal solo explorations!

Ticket Prices for the Plain of Jars

Each site in the Plain of Jars has a separate entrance fee. Luckily these are not very expensive! Some of the smaller “Sites” have no entrance fee at all (the ones we walked to after Site 3 for example - again see later), but most of the larger Plain of Jars will have a small hut or ticket office to buy your entrance ticket from.

Plain of Jars Site 1 entrance fee:

Entrance to the largest Site in the Plain of Jars is 35,000 kip for tourists. The entrance fee includes a ride to the Jar site (only about 500 metres) and access to the visitors centre.

Parking costs 5000 kip.

Plain of Jars Site 2 entrance fee:

Site 2 at the Plain of Jars costs 30,000 kip and parking is free. There are two “Sites” here on either side of the entrance path - do not miss either!

Plain of Jars Site 3 entrance fee:

Entrance to Site 3 costs 30,000 kip with no extra cost to park.

Booking a Tour for the Plain of Jars

Phonsavan is famous for the Plain of Jars, it is immediately obvious as soon as you get off the bus there. Every guesthouse, hotel, restaurant and tour office has multiple adverts for touring the Plain of Jars, it is basically the city’s entire tourist economy. Therefore, is not hard at all to get yourself a guided tour of the Plain of Jars. Just stop in anywhere and ask!

Before we got to Phonsavan we had done some research and booked a guesthouse (we will go into more details about accommodation in Phonsavan later) where all the reviews were glowing and singing the praises of the tour offered by the owner. Kong Keo Guesthouse would not only give us a place to stay but also sort our tour of the Plain of Jars.

Our Plain of Jars tour cost 1,800,000 kip per person. The price included the tour, all transport, entrance tickets to all the Sites, water and lunch out at a restaurant with drinks. The price seemed consistent with other operators in town but it looks like it is a little cheaper online (see below). Our price was only this high as we were the only ones in the guesthouse going on the tour that day, the price drops considerably the more of you there are on a tour. We effectively had a private tour so, when you look at it that way, it was a bargain!

Spoiler alert! We loved our tour with Mr Kong. You can book the tour even if you do not stay at Kong Keo Guesthouse, but he will always give priority to those staying with him so you might not get a space! Luckily (spoilers again), for backpackers like us, Kong Keo Guesthouse was the perfect accommodation choice in Phonsavan. To book with Mr Kong contact him via your booking app, WhatsApp via Google or head to Kong Keo Guesthouse when you're in Phonsavan.

If you want to book online and in advance for a tour of the Plain of Jars then we would recommend using GetYourGuide, as you can see reviews from other travellers and check the tour does exactly what you want it to. You can see some tour options here.

The Plain of Jars Tour

This is our account of what we saw and what we got up to on Mr Kong’s tour of the Plain of Jars, if you want to skip this and go straight to the practical information about what to do in Phonsavan town and booking your accommodation - click here.

We got up early for breakfast at the nearby local market. After stuffing ourselves with barbecued pork and sticky rice we were ready for a day exploring the Plain of Jars. Our transport was a very posh minivan, reclining seats, arctic air conditioning, the whole nine yards. Our guide for the day was the guesthouses owner Mr Kong who spoke perfect English and was a fantastic fount of knowledge.

We were whisked away and, after a short drive, we were found ourselves at the Xieng Khouang Tourist Office. As we have mentioned, we do not usually do tours and definitely do not usually do Tourist Offices, mostly out of some kind of misplaced pride that we can do everything ourselves. The Plain of Jars was to be an exception and one that proved to us that we do not, in fact, know everything! The tourist office was full of history and information about the region, we quickly realised that there was so much more to the Plain of Jars and Xieng Khouang Plateau than we knew.

We had not allowed enough days to properly explore Phonsavan or the region around it, there is so much to see and do, even beyond the Plain of Jars! There are Khmer ruins, ancient temples, old colonial outposts and even the old regional capital to see.

*The tourist office houses a worryingly large assortment of ordrinance from the many wars Laos has been through.*

Around the back of the tourist office is a large collection of war remnants leftover from the French and American wars in the region. From huge gun turrets and bomber fuel tanks to hundreds of sharp tipped bombs, the museum / tourist office houses a depressingly large arsenal. Mr Kong walked us through a brief but surprisingly nuanced history of Laos and the Secret War with America. He was quick to point out where the history books had glossed over the facts and common misconceptions on both sides of the conflict. For such a messy and complicated conflict Mr Kong gave a clear, interesting and (despite the subject matter), often hilarious account.

A two stage tank turret sits rusting in the Tourist office museum. A cannon and machine gun lie supported on a large bomb.

After the tourist office we were driven to the Plain of Jars Information Centre and the entrance to the Plain of Jars most famous area - Site One. The visitors centre was again very useful with lots of information on the possible histories of the Plain of Jars as well as the story of the archaeological efforts around the sites. We wandered around and read all the information before making our way down a small winding road to the Plain of Jars itself.

Plain of Jars Site 1

Site one is the largest of the Plains of Jars, with the most Jars, the largest individual Jar and the biggest area to explore. If you have seen pictures of the Plain of Jars, it was probably from Site One. It does not disappoint, rolling hillsides sprout clusters of huge stone jars, it is bizarre but beautiful. You can see why the Plain of Jars is such a mystery, the jars are everywhere sitting in clusters without any obvious pattern or reason. The spaces between them are uneven, there is no uniformity in height or shape and no apparent design to their placement. Yet these are multi tonne megaliths, each carved elsewhere and hauled into place miles later. Looking at them we couldn't believe that so much effort would have been put into carving and moving these stone jars for them only to be placed at random.

Mr Kong also told us that no jar fragments - no evidence of broken jars - has ever been found on the routes between the quarries and Site One. Somehow all these heavy stone jars were moved, perfectly without incident, 8 kilometres! It really is a mysterious place.

Our guide also showed us some of the more modern history on display at Site One. You can see an old CIA airbase from the crest of one of Site One's hills. Old rotting planes sit outside the crumbling buildings and you can see the remanent of a runway. Inside the Plain of Jars itself Mr Kong showed us old anti-aircraft emplacements and trenches. Site One was a battlefield at various points in its history and you can see smashed jars and bullet holes all over the site. Mr Kong told us that various fighters would hide in the stone jars or use them as cover. He jokingly would point to a hole and ask us "bullet hole? No! This is just the emergency toilet!".

A thick stone jar (at least 6 inches thick on all sides) is lies in pieces - a remanent of a large explosion at the Plain of Jars — *Imagine the force needed to crack this jar into pieces!*

We came down a jar forested hill and made our way to the famous cave at Site One. The use of the cave is (like so much of the Plain of Jars), hotly debated. It may have been a store room for the giants liquor, a crematorium (some bones have been found) or a ceremonial space. There is no clear consensus, although most people don't think the giants explanation too likely. The cave now is full of small cairns, made by its many visitors, it is a very peaceful place with light coming in from the two large holes in the ceiling. Whilst we were there a beautiful girl in full traditional dress came by and started having a photoshoot with her friends.

We then followed a path that, unless we had a guide, we would have definitely missed. It wound up another hill through thickets of golden waving plants to a small cluster of mainly ruined jars. Here Mr Kong pointed out the deep military trenches you can still see today. The view from the top was beautiful, we could see back all the way across Site One. Across the hills from us the newly constructed golden Buddha sat serenely.

Next up was our lunch stop. We didn't hold out too much hope as tour lunches tend to be a little bland - they have to cater for fussy farangs after all. Again though, our cynicism was proved wrong. We pulled up to a small open air restaurant and had a fantastic beef stir fry. We asked for spicy and they definitely delivered! We had some soft drinks alongside it but if you were in the mood for it you could have got some beer - all included in the tour price.

Plain of Jars Site 3

After our lunch stop we moved on to Site 3. We were doing the Sites out of order as our guide said that the rains had made the usual road between Site 2 and Site 3 muddy and very bumpy.

We pulled up in the car pack for the Plain of Jars Site 3 and disembarked from our minivan. The small carpark didn't look much like an entrance to a UNESCO Heritage site, it seemed more like it served the small temple next door however, a faded sign and a ticket desk confirmed we were at the right place.

There is a short but gorgeous walk from the ticket desk to the Plain of Jars site. We crossed a rickety old wooden bridge and crossed streams and paddy fields. Our guide bringing over a friendly(ish) buffalo to explain the legend of why cows and buffalo don't have teeth on the upper side of their mouths and why horses smile whereas buffalo always look depressed. We won't go into too much detail here but it involves the Buddha stealing their genitals and a literal banana skin trip hazard!

A flooded rice paddy waves with golden green stalks of rice. In the distance a lone tall tree stands against a backdrop of the Laotian mountains. — The paddies are beautiful in October

A water buffalo licks its nose whilst being held on reigns near Site 3 of the Plain of Jars — And the water buffalo are sweet!

Site 3 sits on the slope of a hill underneath an almost orchard like forest. Moss grows on and in the Jars and the air was calm and peaceful. It is a beautiful area with loads of different styles of stone jar all sat in an amazing setting.

Stone jars litter the forest floor all covered with a grey-green-blue lichen. Trees grow all around creating dappled light and shade at Site 3 of the Plain of Jars.

Broken and whole jars sit in the shade of trees in the green grasses and mosses of Site 3 of the Plain of Jars — *Site 3 of the Plain of Jars is really beautiful!*

Our guide then took us off-piste, we wandered out the back of Site 3 and further up the hillside. On the crest of the hill was a swallow trap. A huge net that can be raised and lowered from hidden controls in order to catch flocks of birds. We had seen the buckets of pickled swallows in the market that morning (it certainly wakes you up seeing/smelling the tiny pickled birds) and had wondered how they catch so many. Now, with a demonstration from Mr Kong, we knew.

A pair of long rectangular next lie on the ground, each end braced by sticks. Behind is a sweeping view down to the Laotian countryside and around Site 3 of the Plain of Jars. — *From a hidden hide, the nets can be suddenly raised to catch flocks of birds, also - Look at that view!*

Just over the crest and down the other side of the hill we found ourselves in two other Plain of Jars Sites (Plain's of Jar's? We cannot work out the plural!).

A small clump of jars sits, partially ruined and very much overgrown, in a small stand of trees and shrubs. It is obviously not a maintained part of the Plain of Jars

One was almost lost in a small thicket of trees and the other sat in a dell with a small wooden fence all around. Neither looked like they got many visitors which really added to the mystery of the Jars. We cannot find which "Sites" they were as they do not appear on Google Maps. We wouldn't recommend going off-trail in Laos without a guide as you do not know which areas have been made safe from the unexploded bombs. Your best bet for finding these sites is to have a guide or, as the clever tourist behind us did, follow another group! The two unmarked sites we found were overgrown and clearly less visited but still stunningly beautiful, set in amongst the rolling hills and farmlands of the Xieng Khouang plateau.

After circling back to Site 3 and then back down to our minivan it was time for the last Plain of Jars site for the day, Site 2.

Plain of Jars Site 2

Through design or serendipity leaving Site 2 for last was a great finale for our days tour. Site 2 is split into two areas on neighbouring hilltops. The first is set in a shaded and moss-covered forest. We say it is set in a forest but you could more accurately say the forest is set in it. Trees grow up and through the ancient jars, sprouting out and prising apart the old stone vessels. It was the perfect visual clue for the vast age of the jars; a mature forest had grown up around and inside them.

A mature tree coils its roots around and through an old stone jar at Site 2 of the Plain of Jars, Phonsavan, Laos

The opeing and lip of a large stone jar is covered in a fine lauer of rich green moss. Taken at Site 2 of the Plain of Jars. — *There is something very aesthetically pleasing about moss on stone…*

Our last stop of the day was the peak of the hill. A small stand of trees was surrounded by more ancient stone jars. The jars were, as ever, impressive but it was the location that truly sets Site 2 apart. Nearly 360 degree panoramic views spill out over the surrounding countryside that frame the historic site. Whilst we were up there flocks of bright white birds wheeled and dived around us. It was almost magical, you could see how myths get started.

A view down across green and gold rice paddies, scattered farmhouses and distant moutains. Through the center of the view a flock of white brirds is flying. — *The view from Site 2 of the Plain of Jars is simply amazing.*

Site 2 is home to the most famous of the Plain of Jars "lids": a carved cover with a small frog-like figure engraved into the top. It is not the only carved lid in the Plain of Jars but does set it apart from the others at Site 3 and 1. Again, no one knows why this "lid" is decorated, or why the others are not. The choice cannot be random but remains a mystery.

Three jars sit on the crest of the hill at the Plain of Jars Site 2. One is lying on its side, the grey jars against the clouds looks a little like the stones of Stonehenge. — *Some of the views almost reminded us of Stonehenge in the U.K*

A cracked Jar lid at the Plain of Jars Site 2 appears to show a spread eagled man — *The famous spread-eagled man…without a head…*

After admiring the amazing view in the late afternoon sun, it was time to head back to Phonsavan. We has set out to see as much as possible of the Plain of Jars in one day and we had 100% achieved this. Mr Kong was fantastic and had crammed our heads full of facts, without ever making them feel like they would explode.

We had been proved to be wrong - sometimes it is well worth the money and time to take a tour!

A panorama photo taken so that John and Ellie appear multiple times in the same photo, posing around different jars. — *Mr Kong also takes lots of fun photos for you! He is great at showing you the best places for selfies and photographs throught the Plain of Jars.*

Where to Stay when visiting The Plain of Jars - Accommodation in Phonsavan

Phonsavan is a large town with plenty of places to stay whatever style of travel or size budget you are. We (as you may have noticed from this site), are long-term budget backpackers. We do not need much luxury but do like good basics. We go for private rooms in guesthouses over dorms in party hostels, not just because we are in our mid-thirties but because they are actually usually cheaper and better value for couples! We do however, occasionally treat ourselves to more luxurious rooms and, on the other end of the scale, will happily stay in a dorm if it is the best option. That all being said, these are our recommendations for accommodation in Phonsavan.

Kong Keo Guesthouse and Hostel

This was our choice. It fitted all our criteria - budget friendly private rooms within an easy walk of the towns restaurants, markets and museums. Our private room was a cute, good sized little bungalow, with its own front door, table and chairs and a comfy bed. The shower was hot and there was plenty of space to unpack and relax in the evenings. The hostel has a great common area with a campfire burning in an old bomb every night and cheap cold beers in the fridge. Mr Kong runs the fantastic tour we took to the Plain of Jars and rents bikes, scooters and even some more exotic transportation options!

A red chalet bungalow at Kong Keo Guesthouse, Phonsavan. It is raised up on a concrete plinth with tiled steps leading up. — *Our cute little chalet at Kong Keo Guesthouse! A perfect hideaway after a day exploring the Plain of Jars.*

We loved our stay at Kong Keo and would highly recommend it both for budget backpackers and independent travellers who just want a great place, great location and no frills for a good price. For even cheaper stays there are dorm beds available.

You can have a look at the guesthouse / hostel and check prices here

Favanhmai Hotel

For those who want a hotel over a guesthouse (what is the technical difference anyway?) The Favanhmai Hotel is located in central Phonsavan and is an easy walk from the markets or museum. We did not stay here but met a couple at the noodle restaurant (see later) who said it was very nice and perfect for their needs.

To check it out and see prices at the Favanhmai Hotel, click here

Other accommodation choices in Phonsavan

There are loads of other choices for accommodation in Phonsavan. Have a look at our hotel helper map below for all the options:

Phonsavan Town - What else is there to do?

Phonsavan is often seen as just the gateway to the Plain of Jars, simply a place to stay in order to explore the ancient site. We however, had a surprisingly great time exploring the town and finding what else it had to offer. There is definitely more to see in Phonsavan than just the Plain of jars.

A street corner near Phonsavan Market - the corner hous is selling everything from cages for poultry to wicker stools and brooms. — *We didnt know what to expect of Phonsavan but were happily suprised by the town. It is full of interesting corners and unique places.*

Xieng Khouang Museum

This museum came as a complete surprise to us! We initially ducked in here to escape the sun and cool off but were really impressed by the museum. Full of interesting local history and artifacts. There was a wide range of exhibits ranging from prehisotric finds, through the Plain of Jars and the American Secret War to displays of all the different local tribes traditional dresses. The Xieng Khouang Museum was definitely worth a visit.

Five models each wearing a different ethnic dress from a different tribe, stand on diplay at the Phonsavan Museum.

Museum opening hours: 9am - 4pm Everyday except Monday (closed) Ticket Price: 30,000 kip per person

MAG UXO Visitors Centre

You cannot visit Laos without being confronted with the ongoing cost of the "Secret War". America dropped the equivalent of two tonnes of bombs per person over Laos. Lots of this ordinance failed to detonate and now sits buried in the fields, forests and streams of the country. Since the end of the conflict more than 22,000 people have been injured and killed by these bombs. MAG UXO clears areas and makes them safe for people and animals to return to. The MAG UXO Centre is a small museum displaying the work the organisation does to clear the land. It is informative but sombre. When we were visiting the Plain of Jars the work of MAG was everywhere - we could see their old paths which marked where it was "safe" to walk. They have done an amazing job at the three Plain of Jars sites we visited and they are now all bomb free and safe to explore. To learn more about the work MAG does check out their website here.

A square of stone with M.A.G carved into it sits in the grass and soil of the Plain of Jars. — You can still see these old path markers on the side of some of the routes around the Plain of Jars - These markers used to ( and in some places still do) indicate what had been made safe to walk over.

MAG-UXO opening hours: Everyday between 10am - 8pm (this will vary on holidays and staff presence - we visited over a holiday weekend and the centre was often closed).

Ticket price: Free but donations are welcome - you can also support MAG by buying a t-shirt or other merch.

Phonsavan Markets

Phonsavan is the capital city of the Xieng Khouang province, it is not just a tourist town for visitors to the Plain of Jars. As such the city is full of interesting local markets. We love having a nose around markets so explored all the ones we could walk to.

Just to be confusing, all the markets are named Phonsavan Market on Google, so we have named them based on where they are relative to each other.

Phonsavan Market (east)

This local market runs all day but is at its best in the mornings, where it spills out onto the surrounding streets. The market is packed full of colourful fruit, fresh vegetables and local specialities. It is a true Laotian market, full of people going about their day and buying what they need for dinner.

Stacks of egg crates, sacks of chillis, piles of bamboo shoots, garlic and rows and rows of bottles fill the stalls at the Phonsavan market. — *Phonsavan east market was always a rainbow of colour!*

We went to Phonsavan Market most mornings for breakfast. Around the outside of the market are sit down diners serving fantastic noodle soups and, best of all, barbecue stalls where we would buy our favourite Laotian breakfast: Grilled pork belly and sticky rice! Everything was freshly made and very cheap!

Don't miss picking up some doughnuts from the deep-fried sweets lady inside - they were delicious especially the pandan filled ones!

Round trays selling dougnuts, deep fried sweet potatoes and taro balls sit in the Phonsavan market. — *The markets of Phonsavan always have some tasty deep-fried goodness for sale!*

Phonsavan Market (central)

Set just off of the "main" road, we found this market on our first days wander about town. Whereas the east market was full of fresh produce and food this market specialised in clothes and goods. We wandered down crowded aisles full of gold shops, clothes stalls and tailors weaving traditional Hmong dresses. It was really interesting and fun, just what we like about market exploration. This again is not a tourist market, there was no souvenirs on sale, it was a local market where as a visitor we got a small glimpse into Phonsavanian local life.

Two photos from within the central Phonsavan market. The left hand photo shows stacks of traditional headgear, with folded bands of white and either black, blue or maroon. The right hand shows a shop full of flourescent coloured Hmong dresses. — *The central market had many tailors and clothes stalls specialising in the local traditional dresses and headpieces.*

Phonsavan Market (west)

Further down the main road from the "central" market this market was another fresh produce and food market. We arrived a little late in the day to see it at its best but it was still a lively place full of Laotian specialities - pickled sparrow anyone? There were plenty of good looking places to grab a bowl of noodles or pick up some fresh spring rolls to take away.

The interior of Phonsavan west market it full of smoke and wooden stalls laden with all kinds of colourful produce and products. — *The markets of Phonsavan are just what we like - Real, down to earth and full of delicious suprises!*

Phonsavan Morning Market (south)

Ok, full disclosure - we didn't get to this one! We were only in Phonsavan for a few days and didn't manage to go to this morning market. It was the furthest away from our guesthouse and we just didn't have the time. It looks fantastic though, please let us know in the comments if we missed out!

From what our guesthouse owner said, it is very much a morning market and is better the earlier you go.

Eating and Drinking in Phonsavan

Phonsavan town is set up for travellers heading to the Plain of Jars and there is no shortage of places to grab a meal. We ate out every meal during our stay in Phonsavan and would recommend the following:

See You Again - Chinese style noodles

We love noodle soups, possibly to an unhealthy degree. We also love dumplings, so a shophouse restaurant that served Chinese style noodle soup and steamed dumplings was an instant win for us.

See You Again has a small menu, predominantly it serves massive bowls of steaming spiced noodle soups alongside piles of juicy pork dumplings as well as having fantastic chilli oils and Chinese dipping vinegar - we absolutely loved this place.

Two photos side by side. One shows a bowl of ground pork and white noodles, with vegetables and chilli. The otherside is a plate of plump white dumplings with chilli oil and a vinegar dipping sauce on the side. — *You know it looks good!*

A bowl of noodles costs 50,000 kip and a plate of the dumplings costs the same. You could easily have had just a plate of dumplings as a meal but we are greedy so had them on the side of our noodle soups!

The Morning Market

We loved heading down to the market for our breakfasts. There are loads of stalls all set up around the outside of the building serving delicious delicacies from morning to afternoon. We especially recommend heading to one of the barbecue stalls, selecting a meat or fish of your choice and grabbing some sticky rice (all sold from the same stall). It is such a simple meal but utterly delicious. We always go either for pork belly or chicken and they were grilled to perfection, with a sweet marinade. It was a massive breakfast but kept us full for a days exploring.

1kg of sticky rice and a two skewers of bbq pork costs 50,000 kip - an absolute bargain.

A barbecue meat and fish stall at the Phonsavan market. Cooked skewers of sausages, snakehead fish, pork and pork belly as well as chicken butt, livers and leg all sit wating to be barbecued up again. — You just pick your protien and it goes back on the barbecue to crisp and heat up. Just look at those pork belly skewers!

If you are more in the mood for noods, then the market still has you covered.

A noodle soup bowl is stuffed with shredded chicken, rice noodles as well as green and fried onions. Taken outside the Market in Phonsavan.

We had two amazing bowls of chicken pho from a busy restaurant for the incredibly cheap price of 25,000 Kip (0.85p) each!

The noodles were a cross between Vietnamese Pho and a Thai clear soup, taking some of the best of both but ending up with something purely Laotian!

Fried Rice and backpacker favourites

All along Phonsavan's main road are dozens of restaurants all serving a similar menu. The traditional tourist mix of fried rice, pad krapow, Western options and noodles. We are not so up ourselves as to pretend we don't love a good fried rice and these places all were cheap cheerful and no nonsense. We can definitely recommend the chicken fried rice at Phonxay Restaurant, it was smoky from the wok and full of chickeny goodness!

A plate of chicken fried rice from Phonxay Restaurant costs 40,000 kip

There are a few other “backpacker institutions” in Phonsavan that we didn’t have the time to get to. Let us know in the comments if Bombies Restuarnt or Craters live up to their fame!

Coffee and comfort food - Cranky-T Café and Bar

A creamy glass of iced latte sits on the table at Cranky T's in Phonsavan. The latte is mixed and an even colour but there is a lovely crema of foam on top.

We are caffeine fiends, if Ellie doesn't get her cup of coffee she is at real risk of hulking out and going on a rampage. So for the safety of all we always find a good coffee shop wherever we go. Luckily Cranky-T Café was only a short walk from our Guesthouse. Serving great coffee along with cakes, cookies and separate breakfast and dinner menus. We didn't eat a meal here but can confirm the brownies were great! The food that we saw being served looked lovely and very nicely presented. The shop has lots of imported ingredients and serves a range of wines and beers in the evenings.

A hot coffee from Cranky-T costs 30,000 kip. Iced coffees are around 45,000 kip.

Cute coffee - JL22 Cafe

We found this by chance on our morning market wanderings. A small cutesy coffee shop right on Phonsavan's main roundabout. The coffee was cheap, sweet and lovely, just what we needed. An Iced espresso from JL22 cost 31,000 kip.

Conclusion - Is Phonsavan worth the trip?

The obvious answer is YES the Plain of Jars is amazing and the town has enough going on to justify staying a few days to investigate what is has to offer. We loved our time in Phonsavan, we ate at local markets, drank good coffee and explored amazing mysterious megalithic sites. We would go back again, stay at the same guesthouse and explore more of the further flung sites if time permitted.

"If time permitted" however, may be the deal-breaker for some travellers. Phonsavan is out of the way; a good long journey from any of the main backpacker / traveller hubs in Laos. If you have a limited time to spend in the country Phonsavan will use up two days just travelling to and from it. We think that this is 100% worth it, but we are travelling long term with time only constrained by our Laotian visa. If you only have a week, or have a tight itinerary travelling through Laos on your way elsewhere, it may be hard to fit in.

broken and whole jars sit on the forest floor. The jars are covered in moss an lichen. Taken at Site 2 in the Plain of Jars Laos..

If you can spare the days to get to Phonsavan, do! It being harder to get to means there are less crowds and you really do feel more (sigh) "off the beaten path". The Plain of Jars is incredible, a fascinating, sprawling sea of mystery. It really is hard to explain. Before we had visited we were jokingly keeping our expectations down, reminding ourselves that: it is after all a plain, with some jars in it! Luckily for us the Plain of Jars was amazing, much more than we expected, much bigger, much more impressive and a whole lot more intriguing.

From the ancient jars to the modern war remnants, from the markets of Phonsavan to the hilltop sparrow catchers, we had loved our time in this corner of Laos.

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

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Adventures Of Jellie 13/12/2024 Adventures Of Jellie 13/12/2024

Vieng Xai - Adventures in Lesser Travelled Laos

Sometimes it pays to go off the beaten path, sometimes the road less travelled can lead you to amazing places. Vieng Xai is a little known, unexpected, diamond of a destination. With beautiful natural scenery, a fascinating history as well as great food and cheap accommodation, Vieng Xai is something different in Northern Laos. Very few Western visitors brave the long journey to Vieng Xai and this lends the town a truly authentic, relaxed Laotian feel. The daily market, sweeping viewpoints, waterfalls and incredible history caves mean that there is plenty to do for those intrepid enough to step off of the tourist trail.

The town and surrounding countryside are also gorgeous! Set on a flat plain surrounded and punctuated by craggy mountainous peaks, Vieng Xai is seriously pretty. The valley floor is a patchwork of forest, lakes and paddy fields, it is a wonderful place for a wander. If you don't mind a longer walk you can even trek to some incredibly impressive, absolutely massive waterfalls!

This is our guide to Vieng Xai, how to get there and how to get the most out of a stay in this lesser travelled, beautiful Laotian town.

The small town of Vieng Xai sits in between lakes, paddy fields and mountains. Taken from Phou Nang viewpoint.

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

In this guide to Vieng Xai:

Where is Vieng Xai and how to get there
- Sam Neua to Vieng Xai
- Buses from Phonsavan / Vientiane to Sam Neua
- Buses from Nong Khiaw to Sam Neua
- Taxis from Sam Neua to Vieng Xai
- Scooter Rental from Sam Neua
A quick history of Vieng Xai and the Victory Caves
How to visit the Vieng Xai caves
What to do in Vieng Xai
- Exploring the town
- Vieng Xai Market
- Vieng Xai Viewpiont
- The Nam Neua Waterfall Walk
Where to eat in Vieng Xai
Accommodation in Vieng Xai
Conclusion - Is Vieng Xai worth the journey?

How to Get to Vieng Xai - Where is it?

Vieng Xai is located in the North East of Laos, near to the border with Vietnam and sandwiched between the Nam Et Phou Louey National Park and the Nam Xam National Biodiversity Conservation Area.

Vieng Xai is a little harder to reach than the more popular tourist destinations in Laos. The best way to get to this small town is via the nearby provincial capital of Sam Neua (sometimes spelled Xam Neua or Samneua).

Vieng Xai is around a 45 minute drive by bus from Sam Neua.

You can find Vieng Xai on a map here.

Buses to Vieng Xai / Sam Neua

There are buses (or flights for the well-heeled or short on time) from the capital Vientiane to Sam Neua. You can also get to Sam Neua by bus from Phonsavan (a useful detail we used later to visit the Plain of Jars).

The journey from Phonsavan is around 7-9 hours. If you are travelling from Vientiane it can take well over 15 hours by bus.

If you’re travelling from Vang Vieng to Vieng Xai it will be a long travel day - you will need to take 3 buses. One to either Phonsavan or Vientiane and then another bus to Sam Neua before finally hoping on the short ride to Vieng Xai.

Once you make it to Sam Neua you will have to change to the local bus stop, which is, annoyingly, on the other side of town. We used a taxi to do this. There are taxis waiting at either bus stop or you can (like us) get their number from the wall of a noodle shop in town.

Most intercity buses will arrive at the Southern Bus Terminal, located here. To go to Vieng Xai you need to get to the Na Thong Bus Station (located here) and jump on a local bus. The bus will drop you on the side of the road (around here), next to the junction with Vieng Xai town. From the drop-off point, it is a short 10-15 minute walk into town.

It is a little difficult to book tickets online for buses to or from Sam Neua (and impossible for buses from Sam Neua to Vieng Xai).

*This was the diplay timetable at Sam Nuea when we visited.*

If you are travelling from Phonsavan or Vientiane you will need to either use a tour agency or go to the bus station and book them directly yourself. If you are in Vieng Xai the Cave Tour Centre has a very helpful timetable with all the local services. Not much English is spoken at the Sam Neua bus station but we had no problems getting our tickets to Phonsavan, we just said where we wanted to go and they told us the price using a calculator. In Sam Neua city there is a Tourist Office that will be happy to help those who do not want to handle the booking themselves.

Taking the bus from Nong Khiaw to Vieng Xai

For us long term backpackers, we wanted to do things a little differently: Vieng Xai provided a route through Northern Laos that meant we did not have to shuttle backwards and forwards through Luang Prabang - on this trip we had already spent a fortnight in the beautiful UNESCO cultural hub.

We wanted to travel from the backpacker haven of Nong Khiaw (read all about this slice of heaven here) down to Phonsavan and the famous "Plain of Jars". The most common route for tourists would be to double back to Luang Prabang and get on a long bus all the way to Phonsavan. We are slow travellers and are always interested in the road less trodden. We wanted to get off the traditional tourist trail and travel from Nong Khiaw to Sam Neua and Vieng Xai allowed us to do just that. It also stitched together a route to the "Plain of Jars" as we could, after Vieng Xai, catch a bus from Sam Nuea to Phonsavan. However, as we found out, the way was not for the faint of heart!

It was a 12-16 hour minivan adventure, overnight on some of Laos' worst roads. We rocketed from the riverside of Nong Khiaw, careened through bone bouncing roads, tiny villages and epic mountain passes all the way to Sam Neua. It was not restful or comfortable but, if you are looking for adventure on your travels we cannot recommend it enough! It was an amazing journey full of unforgettable moments and sights. Read all about the route here:

The road less travelled in Northern Laos:

Our adventurous route allowed us to not only avoid going back and forth to Luang Prabang but brought us nearby to Vieng Xai, allowing us to add this little known gem to our Laos itinerary.

To book onto this route you need to speak to a tour agency in Nong Khiaw, check out our full article for more details. If you are doing this in reverse and want to travel from Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw, you will need to speak to the bus station in Sam Neua. The bus is the one that goes all the way to Luang Prabang, but it will stop in Nong Khiaw to pick up or drop off passengers.

Taxis Between Sam Neua and Vieng Xai

The quickest but most expensive way to get to Vieng Xai from Sam Neua is by private taxi. The price from all three companies we contacted was the same at 500000 kip. Sometimes, even if you are on a backpacking budget, you need to spend money to get places. We took the local bus from Sam Neua to Vieng Xai but, when it was time to leave, we had to spend the cash and book a very early morning taxi.

We needed to be at the Sam Neua bus station early enough to get our Phonsavan bus tickets and get our luggage on board, so we had to get a taxi from our guesthouse in Vieng Xai. Anyone who has travelled by minivan in Laos knows what happens if you are the last one on board.... beer crate seats are not ideal for 8 hour plus journeys!

Renting a scooter for Vieng Xai

There are no scooter rentals in Vieng Xai. If you want to rent a scooter you will need to do so in Sam Neua. Just be aware that the roads are mountain roads, full of potholes and lorries travelling from Vietnam. Also as there seems to only be one shop in Sam Neua that rents to foreigners, the price is quite high. We did not rent a scooter on our trip but you can do it from here.

Vieng Xai - A Very Brief History

Vieng Xai is a small but incredibly important town in the history of Laos.

After the defeat of the colonial French and the chaos of the Second World War, Laos found itself in a "War of the Brothers". The Laotian Royal Family had fractured over the future of the country. One royal brother wanted the monarchy to remain in charge, another wanted to remain neutral whereas the third brother wanted power to be given over to the Pathet Laos Revolutionary Party.

The conflict was dragged into the wider "Cold War" with the Royalists being supported by the USA and the Pathet Laos siding with, supporting and being supported by Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam and the Communist Parties of China and Russia.

This set the stage for the USA's "Secret War". The "Secret War" is the reason why, despite never officially being at war, Laos is the most bombed country on the planet. The USA did not want the Pathet Laos in power and wanted to stop Laos’ support of Northern Vietnam so it attempted to bomb them into submission. Vieng Xai is where the Laotian leadership sheltered from the onslaught.

Originally just a tiny village surrounded by tall mountains, Vieng Xai was selected as the safest place to relocate the Pathet Laos government to. This tiny, pretty slice of Laos became the seat of power for the Laos People's Revolutionary Party. It sheltered and protected the leaders of the party as they orchestrated their war effort and tried to unify the country under communist ideology.

Hidden in the craggy cliff sides and limestone mountains ringing Vieng Xai are the "Pathet Laos Victory Caves" - The homes, offices, schools, hospitals and theatres built into the rock to protect the people from the falling bombs.

It was in these caves that the Pathet Laos leadership sheltered, planned and administered their war effort. After the ceasefire and the end of the bombing the leadership emerged from the caves and continued to govern from the small town. Although the capital Vientiane is now the seat of the government, Vieng Xai is seen as the spiritual home of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP). The caves that kept the government sheltered are now preserved and open to visitors.

Visiting the Victory Caves at Vieng Xai

To visit the Victory Caves you need to have an official tour guide. We are normally not tour people, we much rather explore by ourselves. For these caves though we made an exception and we are so glad we did, they are seriously impressive and have really interesting histories.

Blue chairs and signs rest outside the visitors centre for the history vaces of Viengxai. A small museum stands behind the ticket booth.

To get on a tour you need to go to the Vieng Xai Caves Visitors Centre (located here). There are two tours a day, one at 9am and one at 12 midday. The tours are very reasonably priced at 70000 kip for foreigners or 40000 for visitors from Southeast Asian countries. If you need a tour at a different time (or want to gaurentee a private tour), you could pay an additional 50000 kip. When you book a tour they advise you on which caves you should visit. If you have transport you can get to and see more of the caves. There is the offer to rent pushbikes from the visitors centre (20000 kip) but we were happy to walk so we passed on a cycle in the midday sun.

There is no real way to see all the caves in a single day - there are just too many of them. We were on foot and decided to see the "main three” caves. This would take from midday to early evening so we thought that would be plenty.

The tour comes with a guide who will let you into all the caves (they are all locked) and explain more of the history. We say more of the history as the tour also includes an audio guide. Now we normally hate audio guides, we just aren't a fan of not going our own way at our own pace, however, this audio guide was actually great. It was well read and really interesting in the way it was written. We suppose there has to be an exception to every rule!

When we visited we had a guide just for us, from the Google reviews this is not uncommon so it is really good value!

The Prince's Cave

Our first stop was the cave residence of the man the west called "The Red Prince" - Prince Souphanouvong - the royal brother who went against the monarchy, his own family, to support Pathet Laos.

The cave was surrounded by a beautiful garden full of fruit trees, purple bushes and soft green mosses. Inside a cave garage the Prince's old cars sit mouldering. Our guide knocked some fresh pomelo fruit from the branches overhead and we gorged ourselves on the juicy fruit. The whole place smelled of flowers, citrus and growing, green plant life.

Inside, the cave was split into rooms for the Prince, his family, doctors and other staff. Some of the Prince's possessions were still there and the audio guide explained through story and first hand account what had happened there.

A gorgeous sea of purple leafed plants flanks a moss covered path in one image. In the other a shrine rises out of the purple plants whilst pomello fruit hang overhead. — We cannot describe how lovely the cave’s garden smelled! For those who don’t know what a pomelo is; it's a huge green skinned orange fleshed citrus fruit that tastes very similar to grapefruit. You can see some smaller pomelos in the trees in the right hand image.

The Leader - Kaysone Phomvihane's Cave

The cave that the leader of the LPRP lived and worked from was humble but functional. It housed bedrooms, a meeting room for the cabinet, inside and outside kitchens (depending on the bombing situation) as well as blast walls and a gas proof bunker. Outside the caves were the buildings constructed after the ceasefire where the government could meet and house foreign diplomats.

A cave entrance in the Laotian hilside is partially protected by a concrete and stone wall. — *Even the caves couldn’t completely protect the people from the falling bombs. You can see the extra blast wall here, outside one of the “secretary caves” in the presidents cave complex.*

Xanglord Cave - The big one

Xanglord Cave is also known as the Elephant Cave. The nickname comes from a local legend that states the cave was so large that an historic King rode his elephant through it. The cave definitely lives up to its name - it is enormous. A warren of tunnels, some only big enough for one person, some wide enough for a tank, criss-cross inside the mountain.

In two images winding paths lead deep into the mountainside of Xanglord Caves, Vieng Xai. The image on the right is a small stone corridor, the left is a massive cavern with a central path. — *The paths twist and burrow through the mountain, we were glad to have a guide!*

Xanglord Cave is so big that it houses a full stage and theatre area. The space was used for government functions as well as weddings, movie nights and dances. It really drove home that people didn't just hide in the caves from the bombs, they lived in them for nearly 10 years!

All the caves were well maintained and the guide and audio tour were fantastic. The audio guide was interesting, engaging and didn't distract from the experience. Our human guide, Bounpanh, was also brilliant, filling in the gaps in the history and adding local anecdotes and stories.

You cannot visit the Vieng Xai Caves independently, they are all locked up after every tour goes through. When we visited our guide literally unlocked the history and led us through the labyrinth of caves. There are many, many caves scattered around Vieng Xai, all the different branches of government had their own offices and shelters - there is no way you could see all of them. We felt our tour of three of them was the perfect amount, it lasted the whole afternoon and was interesting without being overwhelming. As we said we are not normally ones for tours, but the Victory Caves at Vieng Xai are definitely worth it!

What Else is There To Do in Vieng Xai - Beyond the Caves

Vieng Xai Town

Vieng Xai is small, charming and very pretty! It is great just for wandering around and seeing what you find. We loved ambling around next to the pretty lakes and down the back streets, occasionally being honked at by inquisitive geese or sniffed at by curious canines. Throughout Vieng Xai we were constantly being helloed at by the village children all of which wanted to practice their English with us. The town is not very large and you can easily walk around most of it in an hour or two.

On the outskirts of the town are several "attractions" that are still under construction. There is the Japan Friendship Sakura Park (here on a map) - The trees have been planted but have not yet matured into a garden. There is a café attached to the park but we couldn't work out when it was open. Despite its posted hours, it was not open when we trudged back from our long waterfall walk, (see more about this later) much to our disappointment!

Past the park, if you are walking into town, is a formal garden with a large memorial statue in the centre. The memorial was for the first president - Mr Kaisone/Kaysone. Unfortunately this too was shut whenever we passed it by.

A set of stairs with a red center rise up to a statue of the first Pathet Laos president - Mr Kaisone / Kaysone. — *Just because the gates are closed doesnt mean we cannot take a photo through the fence! The Kaysone memorial park did look pretty and well cared for.*

If you stay anywhere in Vieng Xai you cannot miss the huge, ornate red and white building that sits on the edge of town. It is massive, easily 5x the size of the next biggest building in town. It is/was meant to be a museum dedicated to the history of the province but it currently stands empty and abandoned. Let us know if you visit and it has opened, those we spoke to in town were not holding out hope it would ever be completed. Even so, it is a very impressive building!

A view of Vieng Xai town from above. The abandoned, red-roofed, museum stands in the top right of the frame - much larger than any of the towns other buildings. In the background the Laotian mountains strech away. — *You can see the abandoned museum in the top right of the photo - it is truly massive, especially compared to the rest of the buildings in town! We do hope it opens someday.*

Three lakes split the town in half. Most of the commerce, shops and guesthouses are on the eastern side of the lakes with the west being more residential (but still with a few restaurants and shops).

The lakes themselves are very picturesque, framing and reflecting the dramatic, cave riddled mountains. The southernmost lake has hotels and restaurants on its banks and you can even rent pedal-boats if you are in the mood. Unlike in Da Lat (read more about our time there here) we resisted the swan boat’s siren call on this visit.

In the main part of town there are shops selling everything from phones to farming equipment. There are plenty of good places to eat (see later in this article for our recommendations) and even a couple of places to grab a coffee. Remember that you are out in rural Laos so do not expect any single-origin, barista crafted specialist roasteries. We had some lovely cheap rocket fuel at a small shop near the market (around here).

Speaking of markets…

Vieng Xai Market

Vieng Xai has a great market. Open all day, every day, the stalls changed depending on when we visited. There was always plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables, as well as meats and prepared meals. It is a proper working market, interesting and eye opening to wander through. It was also a super friendly market! Sometimes markets can be a little intimidating or standoffish for tourists - after all we are camera wielding interlopers inconveniencing people who are just going about their day. The market at Vieng Xai was full of cheerful people who wanted to show us all their produce, even if we weren't buying anything!

Rows of bottles of soy and other sauces crowd a stall at the Vieng Xai market. Baskets of garlic and red shallots can also be seen along with rice flour and fish pastes.

We found the market was at its best early in the morning, when it was busiest with people getting their ingredients for the day. It is also a good place to pick up snacks, fruit or a bit of breakfast.

Vieng Xai Viewpoint

We love viewpoints, just look at our time in Nong Khiaw. So we were not going to miss out on a little hike for a view! The Vieng Xai Viewpoint is in the middle of town, rising up on a huge spiked and jagged rock. If you are visiting, the entrance to the stairs is on the eastern side.

John stands looking a bit grumpy at the base of a set of stairs. The stairs are flanked by green plants and ferns. The stairs rise sharply up towards the Vieng Xai Viewpoint. — *John looking as happy as every to be climbing up another viewpoint! The stairs start out as wide stone steps but quickly become….*

*Much narrower metal stairs! The top is not too high but still not recommended for those with vertigo!*

The entrance fee is 20000 kip. The climb is easy, far shorter than any of the viewpoints in Nong Khiaw, Muang Ngoi or Vang Vieng. It took under 10 minutes for us to climb the metal staircase to the top of the rock. Despite its smaller size the view from the top was fantastic. From the top we could see right out over the countryside. Around the town the landscape is flat with lakes, paddy fields and farms punctured by craggy limestone peaks. It is a unique landscape.

A view from the Phou Nang Viewpoint of Vienx Xai. The small town is visable below, the lakes running though it. All around are green forests and mountains.

There are two viewing platforms at the top which give you great panoramic views all over the area. It is a stunning place, even without its famous history Vieng Xai would be worth a visit.

Ellie sits on a metal bench at the top of Phou Nang Viewpoint. A Laotian flag waves in the breeze whilst the top spreads out below. — *Ellie taking a breather after a short, sharp climb up the viewpoint.*

Nam Neua Waterfall

The Nam Neua Waterfall is incredible, to get to it however, turned out to be more of an adventure than we anticipated.

Waterfall hunting is a great excuse to get out and explore the countryside. It had served us well in Nong Khiaw with our expedition to Tad Mok Falls and our day out doing the 100 Waterfall Trek so when we saw some impressive looking falls on a map we decided to investigate.

The usually reliable app Maps.me led us here its notes and comments confidently stating that this was the easiest and quickest route to the falls. On the road the place was obvious with a bridge crossing a river, next to an older, much more dilapaded bridge. Our first red flag was that the river appeared to be flowing the wrong way! If this was the correct way to the falls then we would be approaching the top of the falls, however all the pictures we had seen were from the foot of the falls... Still we trusted in our phones and forged ahead.

A bridge, either partically constructed or falling apart, spans a small river surrounded by mountains. Taken on the way to Nam Neua Waterfall. — *Maps.me states this is where you turn off the road - do not believe everything your phone tells you!*

We found a tiny very overgrown path hugging the side of the fast flowing river. We followed the path as it grew narrower and narrower, it was clear no one had come this way in a long time. We eventually admitted defeat when our way was blocked by an enormous spider sitting in the middle of a path-spanning web. We did not want to disturb Mr 8-leg and he didn't look like he wanted to be disturbed by us. We turned around.

Checking our phones we couldn't immediately see where we had gone wrong. We checked the satellite view on Google Maps (always a good tactic where maps are unreliable) and saw what looked like another route on the other side of the falls. It was another good 4-and-a-bit kilometres away but we are not quitters, so we set off again.

Paddy fields and mountains frame a view taken from the side of the road on the walk to the Nam Neua Waterfalls near Vieng Xai. — *The scenery around Vieng Xai is* ***stunning****, totally worth the extra walk!*

The road was quiet with only a few cars, vans and bikes passing us on our lonely wander. It was baking hot and approaching midday but there were plenty of small villages and roadside shops where we could duck into some shade and grab a drink.

After a crossroads around a petrol station the road began to climb and wind into the mountains. The scenery was fantastic, towering cliffs and green forests with the view occasionally opening up to sweeping mountain top vistas.

Eventually we came to a turning off of the tarmac onto a dirt road. The way was marked with a sign in Laotian and nothing else. This was where the satellite said we should go so, slaves to technology that we are, we turned off the main road.

The dirt road was clearly still being constructed; it was cratered and dug out by the caterpillar tread of heavy machinery. The path wound down into a hidden valley and to a wide, fast flowing river.

Ellie stands on a very ramshakle and precarious looking bridge over a river. The bridge is made of thin pieces of wood and the occasional plank. — *The bridge looked* ***sooo*** *safe….*

Spanning the river was one of the dodgiest bridges we have ever seen. A skinny plank and pole walkway was held above the raging water by cables and what looked like chicken wire.

This place was definitely under construction.

We could see a fording point a little way downstream, but as we were not driving a JCB it would have meant a swim for us, so across the bridge we went. After balance-beaming our way across the water we climbed earthen steps up the near vertical riverbank. Our ears slowly filled with the sound of thundering water. We picked our way through a construction site, climbed one more steep path and then, promptly, lost our breath.

A three tierd water fall cascades down into a pool. The Nam Nuea waterfall towers up, its falls driving through the rock, carving a path downwards — *We just cannot explain how much bigger the Nam Nuea falls are in person v.s on camera!*

The Nam Neua waterfall is immense, incredible, impressive and many other words beginning with "I". A huge falling river of white water, cascading over the cliffs in three tiered layers. It was one of the tallest falls we have ever seen and we were also the only ones there! Around us were obvious signs of development, a new viewing area was being gouged out of the hillside below us and behind us was a building site for some kind of large structure. But then and there it was just us, a rusting selfie swing and one of the most amazing waterfalls we have ever seen!

Two close up images of the Nam Nuea waterfalls. Both show raging torrents of white water as it drops down the cliffs of the waterfall.

The falls were brilliant, some of the best we have visited. However, as a day out it had been the adventure we have loved the most. No guides, just a spot on a map, getting mildly lost but sticking at it, persevering until we had really earned our waterfall views. We didn't even mind the 11 kilometre walk back to our guesthouse!

If you too like an adventure and don't mind a long walk, this pin marks the start of the dirt road down to the falls. Please let us know if you visit, and if they finish the development there.

Also, you could just take a scooter if you have rented one in Sam Neua, but where is the challenge in that?!

Where to eat in Vieng Xai

Stir fry, fried rice and the backpacker essentials - Ketnapha Restaurant

We did not have a quick journey to Vieng Xai. By the time we arrived in the town we had been on the road for around 20 hours. On our first night we did not feel like venturing too far from our comfy accommodation (more on that later). Luckily for us our guesthouse has its own restaurant, set just across the road from the rooms.

The restaurant was being renovated when we visited but, despite half the floor being freshly poured concrete, the place was busy with locals tucking into dinner. The menu had English translations (a rare thing in Vieng Xai) and was full of hearty backpacker favourites: fried rice, noodle soups as well as whole fried fish or chicken. Everything was reasonably priced and the smells wafting from the small kitchen promised a tasty meal.

We, through exhaustion and a lack of imagination, ordered two portions of pork fried rice. Our meals came out quickly and steaming hot from the wok. The food was great, each grain of rice coated in delicious flavour and smoky wok caramelization. We were also given a heavily herbed bowl of bone soup that was the perfect accompaniment to the hearty fried rice. It was just what we needed after a long travel day.

Beef noodles at Mrs Sengalouns

We rose late on our first full day in Vieng Xai, too late for breakfast but too early for lunch. We emerged from a well earned lie-in hungry and eager to explore. We were in the mood for noods - we nearly always are! We walked down the road towards the Caves Visitors Centre and found Mrs Sengaloun's restaurant on the side of the path.

Lured in by the smell of boiling broth we grabbed a table. We were dining at an odd time so we had the whole space to ourselves. The lovely lady who ran the shop (we guess this is Mrs Sengaloun?) spoke very little English but enough to understand "noodles please!".

A bowl of beef noodles sits next to a tray of fresh herbs and vegetables. The broth is rich looking with rare cooked beef, rice noodles and garlic chips floating in it. Taken in Vieng Xai.

The lady served us up two huge bowls of meltingly soft beef noodles. They were hearty and delicious, very similar to a Vietnamese pho but with a stronger, more garlicky broth. It was the perfect start to our first day in town and very reasonably priced at 40000 kip a bowl.

Market grazing

Markets are always a good budget friendly option for backpacker dining. The market at Vieng Xai is stuffed full of fresh fruit and small portable snacks for dining on the move. We would recommend some grilled Laotian sausage alongside sticky rice for a cheap, yummy and filling meal.

Saibadee Odisha: One of the best Indian restaurants outside of India - No seriously!