Deep in the north of Isan, in Thailand's far east is a secret. A huge, sprawling spiderweb of walkways, caves, steps and stupas cling to the edge of a mountain - Wat Phu Tok, the temple of the Lonely Mountain. Climbing their way up the precarious cliff faces, the paths of Wat Phu Tok spiral upwards and around the mountain.

The way is not for the faint of heart, the wooden plank walkways and stairs hang right over the cliffs, the gaps between floorboards giving glimpses of the ground far below. Monasteries, prayer halls, statues and meditation spaces are carved into or perched on top of the vertical cliff faces.

Wat Phu Tok is, like lots of Isan's treasures: unexpected, beautiful and utterly unique.

Wat Phu Tok - What is it?

Phu Tok translates to "Isolated Mountain" from one of Isan's local languages (at least it does according to the Tourism Authority of Thailand). Phu Tok Mountain is visible for miles and miles around, rising up from the flat plains like a Thai Sigiriya. It looks ancient, primordial, like a monolith from another era....

However...

The mountain may be pre-historic but the temple certainly is not. The temple's construction started in 1969 and was ordered and overseen by a famous master of meditation - Phra Achan Chuan Kunlachettho. The monk had found the lonely mountain and seen that its tranquility, isolation and beauty were perfect for a spiritual mediation retreat. Over the next five years monks and locals built the winding stairs and pathways that now climb and criss-cross the mountain.

The temple is referred to by a few names: Wat Phu Tok literally means "temple of the isolated mountain" but it can also be called Wat Chetiya Khiri Wihan or Wat Jetiyakhiri. The temples name in Thai is วัดภูทอก.

Two chedis stand opposite one another as seen from high above. One (white and gold) stands on a man made island in a lake, the other rises from lawns. — *The temple grounds around Wat Phu Tok’s base are impressive enough!*

The temple complex starts on the ground; temples halls, gardens and a new museum chedi / Buddhist art display - The Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto. Even if you just wanted to stay at ground level, the ornamental lake, gardens, carvings and sculptures of the Museum Chedi are beautiful and well worth a look.

From here on out it is onwards and upwards! A steep wooden staircase climbs the near-vertical rock-face. The stairs rise up through seven levels of cliff-side prayer halls, seated Buddhas, meditation retreats and walkways. On each level there will be paths around the mountain and staircases leading up to the next stage.

A wooden staircase climbs steeply upwards. Cliffs can be seen on one side and on the other, green forests. — *This was one of the nicer staircases, it had handrails and everything!*

On the lower levels, the path is usually carved into the mountain, a rock walkway snaking between caves, buildings and devotional sites. As the altitude rises the way becomes a wooden plank platform, wedged into the side of the vertical cliffs, hugging the curving side of the mountain. On the fifth level the way snakes off over a bridge to a promontory rock jutting out the side of the lonely mountain. On this isolated rock is another temple with amazing views. The final levels at the top brings you out onto the summit and through forests to viewpoints and incredible panoramic vistas.

The whole site is beautiful, the paths constantly give breathtaking views and not just because of the drop! Everywhere there are intricate and amazing carvings and statues. It is a very, very special place and one that seems to have completely escaped the attention of Western tourists.

Ellie stands smiling on the edge of a sweeping vista. Very high up, the rivers and forests of the Isan countryside spread away. Behind ellie another rocky outcrop can be seen in the middle distance. — *To say Wat Phu Tok is amazing is a massive understatement!*

Visiting Wat Phu Tok - Our Experience

We did not know what to expect when we set off that morning. The previous day had been amazing, we had set off by scooter to the incredible Three Whale Rock (we always think it should be "Whales" but apparently not!).

After having been blown away by its beauty we then promptly broke down; our bike leaking petrol all over the car park. After some help from park rangers we had limped back to town on our wounded scooter.

A blue and yellow taxi stands parked under trees. — *Our transport for the day - Not usually the backpackers choice, but sometimes you have to pony up to see the sights!*

We had tried to arrange another bike for the day but with no luck. We were in the town of Bueng Kan (read all about it here), a day or so away from the Loy Krathong celebrations and there were just no more bikes to rent!Luckily for us, we had found a lovely taxi driver who spoke English and negotiated a price for a day's ride out from Bueng Kan to the temple mountain of Wat Phu Tok.

We had heard the temple was spectacular. It had been on our radar for years, ever since a mid pandemic YouTube binge had brought us to one of Mark Wiens videos. We were in Isan and wanted to explore, so we paid our taxi driver 1500 baht and hopped in the car.

The ride was about 45 minutes and wound through the Isan (or Issan, Isaan, Esarn or Isarn depending on your preference) countryside. The way was mainly flat, going past red and white temples, small towns and roadside restaurants. We passed the turning to the Three Whale Rock that we had scooted up the previous day and continued on into the heartlands of Bueng Kan province.

A man made island rises from a green lake. A many tiered chedi sits with a white and gold crown. Each of the layers are man made caves with stalatites and green plants

We arrived at a large car park and were instantly confronted by the huge, new looking, golden topped chedi that dominates the base of the mountain. Sitting in an ornamental lake festooned with hanging green plants all around, it looked a little like a Thai version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon! There is another enormous Chedi, almost a mirror image, on the land to the south - this is the Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi - Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto.

We knew we had a climb ahead of us and, not wanting to delay the inevitable, set off for the stairs. The sun was unforgiving and our temple appropriate trousers were not the most cooling of outfits, but we found that we really couldn't complain when we were joined on the steps by a dozen, white clad, elderly pilgrims. The little old ladies shuffled and hauled themselves up the steps in great humour, laughing and prodding each other with their walking sticks. They were incredibly friendly to us, the two random foreigners suddenly in their midst, our Thai wasn’t good enough to understand what they were saying to us, but it was, apparently, hilarious!

It is always lovely in Thailand when you come to the hilltop shrines, temples and mountain retreats. They are clearly loved, respected and revered by the locals but, and we think this is important, they are used by them. They are not a distant object for detached veneration, they are a solid, holy part of the landscape to be enjoyed and appreciated.

We climbed on and upwards passing through the gaggle of grannies.

We like to get all of the hard work over with at the start so we decided to climb all the way to the top layer first, then work our way back down the 7 levels of the mountain temple. It was steep, it was tiring, it was, above all, HOT. It was mid November in Isan and the temperature was well above 35 (over 95 for any of our American friends.). It was not, therefore, ideal weather to be climbing nearly 400 meters up a Thai mountainside.

John clambers up a narrow, steep path criss crossed with tree roots. All around are green ferns and plants. — *The top of Wat Phu Tok is mainly forested, this just gives the final reveal much more impact!*

Up on the final, seventh level of the mountain, the wooden steps gave way to a forested path as we approached the summit. We scrambled up the last few sections, using tree roots as ladder rungs. Drenched in sweat and out of breath (too much congee can weigh a man down), we continued up a tree covered path.

It was worth it, worth the taxi fare, worth the climb, worth the heat, it was even worth the horrible feeling of boxer shorts clinging in uncomfortable bunches (not much else is worth that). The view from the top of Phu Tok is incredible. The path at the summit goes all around the flat(ish) top of the mountain and opens up again and again into jaw dropping vistas. The way is a little precarious up at the top, there are no handholds and very few safety measures, but it feels incredible when you emerge from the forest into the clear air, breeze and hundred-mile views.

A sweeping birds-eye view of the green forests of isan. Lakes sparkle and clouds cast vast shadows over the landscape — *You don’t realise how high you have climbed until you get a view like this.*

Being a "Lonely Mountain" means the Phu Tok commands a view over everything else. It stands proud over the whole landscape, giving birds eye views over Bueng Kan and Isan. It is really very special. You can see another, lower rock formation nearby and, on a clear day, see in the distance the mountains and formations that hide the Three Whales Rock, but Phu Tok absolutely dominates the local landscape.

We orbited the top of the mountain taking in viewpoints and wandering through picturesque forests. Our guide had warned us about monkeys at the top, but we didn't even catch a glimpse of them. He had also warned us about snakes but had been laughing at the time...we did not see any slitherers. Let us know if he was pulling our leg or not in the comments!

A rock formation rises from the isan forests. It is seen from the vantage point above - the summit of Wat Phu Tok

We started to make our way down the stairs to the lower levels, each was an adventure in their own right. The top two layers below the summit (5 & 6) were actually our favourites. They had the most amazing views. Somehow the massive vistas are even more incredible when framed by a cliff wall and a walkway that would make Indiana Jones think twice!

The pathways and hanging wooden walkways are what make this temple famous (or infamous if overly dramatic YouTubers are to be believed - which they aren't!). They are a test of resolve and really feel like something from a bygone era; they are like the old bridges you see in the Himalayas, or deep in the jungle. The walkways are half the fun and most of the adventure at Wat Phu Tok.

Ellie stands of a narrow plank walkway overlooking a massive drop and sweeping vista. behind her another smaller rock rises from the forests. — *We did say that the walkway could be a little narrow!*

On the fifth level was another surprise, a road led us off away from the main mountain and onto a promontory rock. Improbably perched on top of this satellite stone was a small shrine. This mini temple had sweeping views of its own but also really served to highlight the massivity (is that a word? Our spell checker doesn't think so!) of Wat Phu Tok itself.

Dotted everywhere are reminders that this is a holy place. Symbols carved into the walls at auspicious junctions. Seated Buddhas and statues of venerated monks gaze out over the incredible views. Flowers and incense sticks add pops of colour and fragrance to the whole temple. It is a very well used and maintained site - we passed groups of monks and nuns who actually live up on the mountain, their monastic homes drilled into the rock.

Rows of bronze statues line a cave. Each is of a different monk in a meditative pose. Each monk holds a glass sphere. — *There were halls full of the most intricate statues - Each monk was unique.*

We wound downwards, passing halls of seated statues - immortalised monks sitting forever in the lee of the mountain, beatifically smiling Buddhas and incredible carvings. By the time we reached the blissful air conditioning of our taxi; we were both certain;

This was one of the most unique, beautiful and amazing temples we have ever visited, not just in Thailand, but anywhere in the world!

The Mountain rock of Wat Phu Tok rises against a blue sky. On its face are the timy walkways and paths, carved into the rock. — *There really is nothing like Wat Phu Tok.*

Essential Information - What to Know Before You Go to Wat Phu Tok

If the above has whetted your appetite for adventure and you fancy exploring Wat Phu Tok, make sure you arm yourself with everything you need to know:

Where is Wat Phu Tok

Short answer: here

Long, more helpful, answer: Wat Phu Tok is in the Bueng Kan Province of Isan, deep in the east of Thailand. It is over 700km from the Thai capital of Bangkok, the nearest towns and cities are:

Bueng Kan Town (sometimes spelled Bung Kan) - 43km or around an hour on a scooter or by car (this was where we stayed, more on this later).
Sakhon Nakhon - 135km. 2.5-3. hours by car or motorbike
Nakhon Phanom - 150 km. 2.5-3 hours travel
Nong Khai - 150km, again 2.5 to 3 hours travel time.

Getting to the Lonely Mountain Temple

You will be able to arrange a driver or tour from any of the above places to get to Wat Phu Tok or, if you have your own wheels you can drive yourself. If you are in Bueng Kan, ask at your accommodation for scooter hire, hopefully our bad luck won’t transfer to you (see later 😝).

Driving Route to Wat Phu Tok

The temple sits just off of Road 3012.

From either Nakhon Phanom or Bueng Kan you would take the main road 212, then come off onto the 3009 and then finally the 3012. From Nong Khai you would just drive to Bueng Kan then follow the above. The way to the temple is well signposted and down good roads.

You could easily drive a scooter or bike from Bueng Kan / Bung Kan, the only reason we didn't was because the only scooter for hire in the town had broken down on us the previous day!

Taxi’s and Tours

We paid 1500 baht for a taxi driver from Bueng Kan town. He picked us up at our hotel (the cheap and lovely Wisdom Residence), drove us all the way to the temple and waited for us in the car park. It was a good 4+ hours so we feel this was a very good deal.

If you are in any of the towns or cities we have listed, there will be private tours and taxi’s available, just ask at your hostel / hotel / guesthouse.

We recommend heading to the bus terminal and asking the local taxi’s If you are starting your journey in Buen Kan or any of the smaller Isan towns, there is often not much English spoken, or passing taxis!

Is Wat Phu Tok Dangerous to Climb?

A quick Google of Wat Phu Tok will reveal a flurry of sensational headlines, usually from slack-jawed, shocked-faced YouTube thumbnails. The titles proclaim Wat Phu Tok to be, "Thailand's deadliest temple!" or brag at surviving the "most dangerous temple in Thailand!". Take these dramaticisms with a fistful of salt, they are clickbait. Wat Phu Tok is dramatic, it is precarious, the walkways do creak and you can occasionally see through the floors; however, we never felt unsafe - it is a temple and pilgrimage site, not an extreme sports challenge!

John walks down a wooden plank path over a humongous drip. On one side is a red cliff face, the other is green forests hundreds of metres below. — *The path is narrow but well maintained. It creaks a bit but we never felt unsafe*

That all being said, Wat Phu Tok may be a little much for vertigo sufferers or those not a fan of heights.

A precarious path, made of a jumble of wooden plaks curves around a rocky corner of the mountain. The drop below is immense — *You have been warned!*

The views are spectacular, they are also very high up with little to no safety rails at the top! The paths wrap around the sides of the cliffs with very narrow portions and blind corners out over the void.

We don't have an issue with heights and cannot say if it is beyond your personal limits, just be aware, it is high up and the path can be less than reassuring! However, if you can handle it, the rewards are amazing.

Opening Times and Entrance Fees for Wat Phu Tok

Firstly some good news: There is no entrance fee for Wat Phu Tok. Donations are appreciated but, as a holy pilgrimage site, there is no cost to climb the Lonely Mountain.

Wat Phu Tok is open daily between 6:30am and 5pm. This may change on religious holidays. We do not recommend climbing the rock in the dark, so in the shorter daylight months, plan accordingly. We arrived around 11am on a weekday and there were barely any people and the summit was completely deserted. It was, however, hot, next time we would aim to climb in the cooler morning air. We would advise to aim for a balance, too early and the views may be obscured by morning mists, too late and you may (like us ) roast! We also imagine the stairs could get busy on Thai holidays, weekends and festivals.

What to Wear - Temple Etiquette

Wat Phu Tok is a temple, it is in the name! You will have to dress appropriately. This means shoulders, knees and midriff covered. It is a hot and sweaty climb but it is a hot and sweaty climb through a holy site and should be respected as such.

We wore loose fitting athletic clothes (it was the only athletic thing about us). Not going to sugar coat it, it was boiling! Sometimes you need to sweat to get to the rewards!

A wooden sign asks passers by to dress properly and not to make loud noises.

When you are on the mountain (or in Thailand as a whole), monks and nuns have the right of way. Stand aside as they pass and do not touch them! It is very bad form for a woman to touch a male monk and visa-versa. Interaction varies from monk to monk; some are super friendly and want to take photos with you, some just want to be left to meditate in peace.

There will be pilgrims and visitors praying at the temples and shrines all over the holy mountain. These people have priority access to anything they may want to - you are here for photos they are here for the temple. Again, we encountered nothing but friendly and funny people but remember, they are just that; people, not props for your photos!

There will also be areas where you need to remove your shoes, obey the signs and don't act like an idiot and you will be fine.

Conclusion - Is it Worth Visiting Wat Phu Tok

We hope it is fairly damn clear what we think! Wat Phu Tok is one of the most impressive religious sites in Thailand and a proper Isan adventure! The views and walkways are beautiful and the whole site is like nothing else we have seen. The only thing we can think of that is even remotely similar is Sigiriya in Sri Lanka - that is a pretty flattering comparison! Wat Phu Tok was an unexpected delight, we had seen and read about it, but nothing could prepare or compete with the actual experience. The Lonely Mountain Temple is bigger, more beautiful and more impressive than we had ever imagined.

A cast gopro shot vista sweeps away from a cliffside viewpoint. Blue skies are dotted with clouds and all around are green forests. In the centre is a small hilltop shrine, connected to the main temple by a bridge.

Whether Wat Phu Tok is "worth it" will depend on you. Where are you? If you are already in Isan, then of course it is worth it. It is worth travelling the 6 hours round trip from Nong Khai in our opinion, especially if you can combine it with a visit to the Three Whale Rock! If you are in Koh Samui....then the journey may be a little long for a day trip! If you are looking for a real adventure, away from the crowds of holidaymakers and toastie wielding backpackers, Isan awaits!

We would say that this corner of Isan holds so much bounty: Just north of Phu Tok is the amazing Three Whales Rock, there are national parks, waterfalls and the mighty Mekong River. The town of Bueng Kan is great, with a weekend riverside night market, fresh spicy som tam salads and amazing grilled meats; Bueng Kan is a great base to explore this region.

We are attempting throughout this new series of posts to show you what a trip though Isan can bring. We hope that this article shows how amazing just this one temple is, there is so much more out there to see.

Wat Phu Tok is a jewel in this treasure box of a region. Do not miss out.

Thanks for reading,

John and Ellie x

#adventures of Jellie

Jellie take a smiling selfie from the top of Wat Phu Tok. The red cliff edge gives way to a view of forests, towns, lakes and fields. — *Is Wat Phu Tok worth a visit? What do you think!*

Make sure to check out our articles on the nearby Three Whale Rock and the Town of Bueng Kan

Bueng Kan Province

Treasures Of Isan - The Three Whale Rock

One of Thailand’s unknown treasures, the Three Whale Rock bursts out of an Isan mountaintop in the lesser travelled Bueng Kan province of Thailand. An adventure for those in the know, the Three Whale Rock is an incredible place with unmatched views, jaw-dropping scenery and very few other Western travellers. Read our guide for everything you need to know about visiting this less travelled corner of Thailand.

Treasures of Isan - The Temple Mountain of Wat Phu Tok

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