Adventures Of Jellie Adventures Of Jellie

Treasures of Isan - The Temple Mountain of Wat Phu Tok

Wat Phu Tok is not on the traditional Thailand tourist trail; the region it is in, isn’t even well know amongst travellers. We are here to show you why you should venture out to Bueng Kan, Isan and explore the incredible Lonely Mountain Temple. Our guide covers everything from what to expect to how to get there and all the other essential information you will need to visit one of Thailand’s true hidden gems.

Deep in the north of Isan, in Thailand's far east is a secret. A huge, sprawling spiderweb of walkways, caves, steps and stupas cling to the edge of a mountain - Wat Phu Tok, the temple of the Lonely Mountain. Climbing their way up the precarious cliff faces, the paths of Wat Phu Tok spiral upwards and around the mountain.

The way is not for the faint of heart, the wooden plank walkways and stairs hang right over the cliffs, the gaps between floorboards giving glimpses of the ground far below. Monasteries, prayer halls, statues and meditation spaces are carved into or perched on top of the vertical cliff faces.

Wat Phu Tok is, like lots of Isan's treasures: unexpected, beautiful and utterly unique.

 
 

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

John stands on a wooden plank walkway looking out over a huge view of forests and trees. The walkway is fixed to the side of Phu Tok mountain and is ramshakle and narrow.

Wat Phu Tok - What is it?

Phu Tok translates to "Isolated Mountain" from one of Isan's local languages (at least it does according to the Tourism Authority of Thailand). Phu Tok Mountain is visible for miles and miles around, rising up from the flat plains like a Thai Sigiriya. It looks ancient, primordial, like a monolith from another era....

However...

The mountain may be pre-historic but the temple certainly is not. The temple's construction started in 1969 and was ordered and overseen by a famous master of meditation - Phra Achan Chuan Kunlachettho. The monk had found the lonely mountain and seen that its tranquility, isolation and beauty were perfect for a spiritual mediation retreat. Over the next five years monks and locals built the winding stairs and pathways that now climb and criss-cross the mountain.

The temple is referred to by a few names: Wat Phu Tok literally means "temple of the isolated mountain" but it can also be called Wat Chetiya Khiri Wihan or Wat Jetiyakhiri. The temples name in Thai is วัดภูทอก.

Two chedis stand opposite one another as seen from high above. One (white and gold) stands on a man made island in a lake, the other rises from lawns.

The temple grounds around Wat Phu Tok’s base are impressive enough!

The temple complex starts on the ground; temples halls, gardens and a new museum chedi / Buddhist art display - The Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto. Even if you just wanted to stay at ground level, the ornamental lake, gardens, carvings and sculptures of the Museum Chedi are beautiful and well worth a look.

From here on out it is onwards and upwards! A steep wooden staircase climbs the near-vertical rock-face. The stairs rise up through seven levels of cliff-side prayer halls, seated Buddhas, meditation retreats and walkways. On each level there will be paths around the mountain and staircases leading up to the next stage.

A wooden staircase climbs steeply upwards. Cliffs can be seen on one side and on the other, green forests.

This was one of the nicer staircases, it had handrails and everything!

On the lower levels, the path is usually carved into the mountain, a rock walkway snaking between caves, buildings and devotional sites. As the altitude rises the way becomes a wooden plank platform, wedged into the side of the vertical cliffs, hugging the curving side of the mountain.  On the fifth level the way snakes off over a bridge to a promontory rock jutting out the side of the lonely mountain. On this isolated rock is another temple with amazing views. The final levels at the top brings you out onto the summit and through forests to viewpoints and incredible panoramic vistas.

The whole site is beautiful, the paths constantly give breathtaking views and not just because of the drop! Everywhere there are intricate and amazing carvings and statues. It is a very, very special place and one that seems to have completely escaped the attention of Western tourists.

Ellie stands smiling on the edge of a sweeping vista. Very high up, the rivers and forests of the Isan countryside spread away. Behind ellie another rocky outcrop can be seen in the middle distance.

To say Wat Phu Tok is amazing is a massive understatement!


Visiting Wat Phu Tok - Our Experience

We did not know what to expect when we set off that morning. The previous day had been amazing, we had set off by scooter to the incredible Three Whale Rock (we always think it should be "Whales" but apparently not!).

After having been blown away by its beauty we then promptly broke down; our bike leaking petrol all over the car park. After some help from park rangers we had limped back to town on our wounded scooter.

A blue and yellow taxi stands parked under trees.

Our transport for the day - Not usually the backpackers choice, but sometimes you have to pony up to see the sights!

We had tried to arrange another bike for the day but with no luck. We were in the town of Bueng Kan (read all about it here), a day or so away from the Loy Krathong celebrations and there were just no more bikes to rent!Luckily for us, we had found a lovely taxi driver who spoke English and negotiated a price for a day's ride out from Bueng Kan to the temple mountain of Wat Phu Tok.

We had heard the temple was spectacular. It had been on our radar for years, ever since a mid pandemic YouTube binge had brought us to one of Mark Wiens videos. We were in Isan and wanted to explore, so we paid our taxi driver 1500 baht and hopped in the car.

The ride was about 45 minutes and wound through the Isan (or Issan, Isaan, Esarn or Isarn depending on your preference) countryside. The way was mainly flat, going past red and white temples, small towns and roadside restaurants. We passed the turning to the Three Whale Rock that we had scooted up the previous day and continued on into the heartlands of Bueng Kan province.

A man made island rises from a green lake. A many tiered chedi sits with a white and gold crown. Each of the layers are man made caves with stalatites and green plants

We arrived at a large car park and were instantly confronted by the huge, new looking, golden topped chedi that dominates the base of the mountain. Sitting in an ornamental lake festooned with hanging green plants all around, it looked a little like a Thai version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon! There is another enormous Chedi, almost a mirror image, on the land to the south - this is the Atthaborikhan Museum Chedi - Phra Ajarn Juan Kulchetto.

We knew we had a climb ahead of us and, not wanting to delay the inevitable, set off for the stairs. The sun was unforgiving and our temple appropriate trousers were not the most cooling of outfits, but we found that we really couldn't complain when we were joined on the steps by a dozen, white clad, elderly pilgrims. The little old ladies shuffled and hauled themselves up the steps in great humour, laughing and prodding each other with their walking sticks. They were incredibly friendly to us, the two random foreigners suddenly in their midst, our Thai wasn’t good enough to understand what they were saying to us, but it was, apparently, hilarious!

It is always lovely in Thailand when you come to the hilltop shrines, temples and mountain retreats. They are clearly loved, respected and revered by the locals but, and we think this is important, they are used by them. They are not a distant object for detached veneration, they are a solid, holy part of the landscape to be enjoyed and appreciated.

We climbed on and upwards passing through the gaggle of grannies.

We like to get all of the hard work over with at the start so we decided to climb all the way to the top layer first, then work our way back down the 7 levels of the mountain temple. It was steep, it was tiring, it was, above all, HOT. It was mid November in Isan and the temperature was well above 35 (over 95 for any of our American friends.). It was not, therefore, ideal weather to be climbing nearly 400 meters up a Thai mountainside.

John clambers up a narrow, steep path criss crossed with tree roots. All around are green ferns and plants.

The top of Wat Phu Tok is mainly forested, this just gives the final reveal much more impact!

Up on the final, seventh level of the mountain, the wooden steps gave way to a forested path as we approached the summit. We scrambled up the last few sections, using tree roots as ladder rungs. Drenched in sweat and out of breath (too much congee can weigh a man down), we continued up a tree covered path.

It was worth it, worth the taxi fare, worth the climb, worth the heat, it was even worth the horrible feeling of boxer shorts clinging in uncomfortable bunches (not much else is worth that). The view from the top of Phu Tok is incredible. The path at the summit goes all around the flat(ish) top of the mountain and opens up again and again into jaw dropping vistas. The way is a little precarious up at the top, there are no handholds and very few safety measures, but it feels incredible when you emerge from the forest into the clear air, breeze and hundred-mile views.

A sweeping birds-eye view of the green forests of isan. Lakes sparkle and clouds cast vast shadows over the landscape

You don’t realise how high you have climbed until you get a view like this.

Being a "Lonely Mountain" means the Phu Tok commands a view over everything else. It stands proud over the whole landscape, giving birds eye views over Bueng Kan and Isan. It is really very special. You can see another, lower rock formation nearby and, on a clear day, see in the distance the mountains and formations that hide the Three Whales Rock, but Phu Tok absolutely dominates the local landscape.

We orbited the top of the mountain taking in viewpoints and wandering through picturesque forests. Our guide had warned us about monkeys at the top, but we didn't even catch a glimpse of them. He had also warned us about snakes but had been laughing at the time...we did not see any slitherers. Let us know if he was pulling our leg or not in the comments!

A rock formation rises from the isan forests. It is seen from the vantage point above - the summit of Wat Phu Tok

We started to make our way down the stairs to the lower levels, each was an adventure in their own right. The top two layers below the summit (5 & 6) were actually our favourites. They had the most amazing views. Somehow the massive vistas are even more incredible when framed by a cliff wall and a walkway that would make Indiana Jones think twice!

The pathways and hanging wooden walkways are what make this temple famous (or infamous if overly dramatic YouTubers are to be believed - which they aren't!). They are a test of resolve and really feel like something from a bygone era; they are like the old bridges you see in the Himalayas, or deep in the jungle. The walkways are half the fun and most of the adventure at Wat Phu Tok.

Ellie stands of a narrow plank walkway overlooking a massive drop and sweeping vista. behind her another smaller rock rises from the forests.

We did say that the walkway could be a little narrow!

On the fifth level was another surprise, a road led us off away from the main mountain and onto a promontory rock. Improbably perched on top of this satellite stone was a small shrine. This mini temple had sweeping views of its own but also really served to highlight the massivity (is that a word? Our spell checker doesn't think so!) of Wat Phu Tok itself.

Dotted everywhere are reminders that this is a holy place. Symbols carved into the walls at auspicious junctions. Seated Buddhas and statues of venerated monks gaze out over the incredible views. Flowers and incense sticks add pops of colour and fragrance to the whole temple. It is a very well used and maintained site - we passed groups of monks and nuns who actually live up on the mountain, their monastic homes drilled into the rock.

Rows of bronze statues line a cave. Each is of a different monk in a meditative pose. Each monk holds a glass sphere.

There were halls full of the most intricate statues - Each monk was unique.

We wound downwards, passing halls of seated statues - immortalised monks sitting forever in the lee of the mountain, beatifically smiling Buddhas and incredible carvings. By the time we reached the blissful air conditioning of our taxi; we were both certain;

This was one of the most unique, beautiful and amazing temples we have ever visited, not just in Thailand, but anywhere in the world!

The Mountain rock of Wat Phu Tok rises against a blue sky. On its face are the timy walkways and paths, carved into the rock.

There really is nothing like Wat Phu Tok.


Essential Information - What to Know Before You Go to Wat Phu Tok

If the above has whetted your appetite for adventure and you fancy exploring Wat Phu Tok, make sure you arm yourself with everything you need to know:

Where is Wat Phu Tok

Short answer: here

Long, more helpful, answer: Wat Phu Tok is in the Bueng Kan Province of Isan, deep in the east of Thailand. It is over 700km from the Thai capital of Bangkok, the nearest towns and cities are:

  • Bueng Kan Town (sometimes spelled Bung Kan) - 43km or around an hour on a scooter or by car (this was where we stayed, more on this later). 

  • Sakhon Nakhon - 135km. 2.5-3. hours by car or motorbike 

  • Nakhon Phanom - 150 km. 2.5-3 hours travel 

  • Nong Khai - 150km, again 2.5 to 3 hours travel time.

Getting to the Lonely Mountain Temple

You will be able to arrange a driver or tour from any of the above places to get to Wat Phu Tok or, if you have your own wheels you can drive yourself. If you are in Bueng Kan, ask at your accommodation for scooter hire, hopefully our bad luck won’t transfer to you (see later 😝).

Driving Route to Wat Phu Tok

The temple sits just off of Road 3012.

From either Nakhon Phanom or Bueng Kan you would take the main road 212, then come off onto the 3009 and then finally the 3012. From Nong Khai you would just drive to Bueng Kan then follow the above. The way to the temple is well signposted and down good roads.

You could easily drive a scooter or bike from Bueng Kan / Bung Kan, the only reason we didn't was because the only scooter for hire in the town had broken down on us the previous day!

Taxi’s and Tours

We paid 1500 baht for a taxi driver from Bueng Kan town. He picked us up at our hotel (the cheap and lovely Wisdom Residence), drove us all the way to the temple and waited for us in the car park. It was a good 4+ hours so we feel this was a very good deal.

This was our lovely drivers card.

If you are in any of the towns or cities we have listed, there will be private tours and taxi’s available, just ask at your hostel / hotel / guesthouse.

We recommend heading to the bus terminal and asking the local taxi’s If you are starting your journey in Buen Kan or any of the smaller Isan towns, there is often not much English spoken, or passing taxis!

Is Wat Phu Tok Dangerous to Climb?

A quick Google of Wat Phu Tok will reveal a flurry of sensational headlines, usually from slack-jawed, shocked-faced YouTube thumbnails. The titles proclaim Wat Phu Tok to be, "Thailand's deadliest temple!" or brag at surviving the "most dangerous temple in Thailand!". Take these dramaticisms with a fistful of salt, they are clickbait. Wat Phu Tok is dramatic, it is precarious, the walkways do creak and you can occasionally see through the floors; however, we never felt unsafe - it is a temple and pilgrimage site, not an extreme sports challenge!

John walks down a wooden plank path over a humongous drip. On one side is a red cliff face, the other is green forests hundreds of metres below.

The path is narrow but well maintained. It creaks a bit but we never felt unsafe

That all being said, Wat Phu Tok may be a little much for vertigo sufferers or those not a fan of heights.

A precarious path, made of a jumble of wooden plaks curves around a rocky corner of the mountain. The drop below is immense

You have been warned!

The views are spectacular, they are also very high up with little to no safety rails at the top! The paths wrap around the sides of the cliffs with very narrow portions and blind corners out over the void.

We don't have an issue with heights and cannot say if it is beyond your personal limits, just be aware, it is high up and the path can be less than reassuring! However, if you can handle it, the rewards are amazing.

Opening Times and Entrance Fees for Wat Phu Tok

Firstly some good news: There is no entrance fee for Wat Phu Tok. Donations are appreciated but, as a holy pilgrimage site, there is no cost to climb the Lonely Mountain.


Wat Phu Tok is open daily between 6:30am and 5pm. This may change on religious holidays. We do not recommend climbing the rock in the dark, so in the shorter daylight months, plan accordingly. We arrived around 11am on a weekday and there were barely any people and the summit was completely deserted. It was, however, hot, next time we would aim to climb in the cooler morning air. We would advise to aim for a balance, too early and the views may be obscured by morning mists, too late and you may (like us ) roast! We also imagine the stairs could get busy on Thai holidays, weekends and festivals.

What to Wear - Temple Etiquette

Wat Phu Tok is a temple, it is in the name! You will have to dress appropriately. This means shoulders, knees and midriff covered. It is a hot and sweaty climb but it is a hot and sweaty climb through a holy site and should be respected as such.

We wore loose fitting athletic clothes (it was the only athletic thing about us). Not going to sugar coat it, it was boiling! Sometimes you need to sweat to get to the rewards!

A wooden sign asks passers by to dress properly and not to make loud noises.

When you are on the mountain (or in Thailand as a whole), monks and nuns have the right of way. Stand aside as they pass and do not touch them! It is very bad form for a woman to touch a male monk and visa-versa. Interaction varies from monk to monk; some are super friendly and want to take photos with you, some just want to be left to meditate in peace.

There will be pilgrims and visitors praying at the temples and shrines all over the holy mountain. These people have priority access to anything they may want to - you are here for photos they are here for the temple. Again, we encountered nothing but friendly and funny people but remember, they are just that; people, not props for your photos!

There will also be areas where you need to remove your shoes, obey the signs and don't act like an idiot and you will be fine.


Conclusion - Is it Worth Visiting Wat Phu Tok

We hope it is fairly damn clear what we think! Wat Phu Tok is one of the most impressive religious sites in Thailand and a proper Isan adventure! The views and walkways are beautiful and the whole site is like nothing else we have seen. The only thing we can think of that is even remotely similar is Sigiriya in Sri Lanka - that is a pretty flattering comparison! Wat Phu Tok was an unexpected delight, we had seen and read about it, but nothing could prepare or compete with the actual experience. The Lonely Mountain Temple is bigger, more beautiful and more impressive than we had ever imagined.

A cast gopro shot vista sweeps away from a cliffside viewpoint. Blue skies are dotted with clouds and all around are green forests. In the centre is a small hilltop shrine, connected to the main temple by a bridge.

Whether Wat Phu Tok is "worth it" will depend on you. Where are you? If you are already in Isan, then of course it is worth it. It is worth travelling the 6 hours round trip from Nong Khai in our opinion, especially if you can combine it with a visit to the Three Whale Rock! If you are in Koh Samui....then the journey may be a little long for a day trip! If you are looking for a real adventure, away from the crowds of holidaymakers and toastie wielding backpackers, Isan awaits!

We would say that this corner of Isan holds so much bounty: Just north of Phu Tok is the amazing Three Whales Rock, there are national parks, waterfalls and the mighty Mekong River. The town of Bueng Kan is great, with a weekend riverside night market, fresh spicy som tam salads and amazing grilled meats; Bueng Kan is a great base to explore this region.

We are attempting throughout this new series of posts to show you what a trip though Isan can bring. We hope that this article shows how amazing just this one temple is, there is so much more out there to see.

Wat Phu Tok is a jewel in this treasure box of a region. Do not miss out.

Thanks for reading,

John and Ellie x 

#adventures of Jellie

Jellie take a smiling selfie from the top of Wat Phu Tok. The red cliff edge gives way to a view of forests, towns, lakes and fields.

Is Wat Phu Tok worth a visit? What do you think!


Make sure to check out our articles on the nearby Three Whale Rock and the Town of Bueng Kan


If you’ve enjoyed reading this article, why not save the pin below?

A Pinterest Pin for the Adventures of Jellie article Wat Phu Tok - An Unexpected Isan Treasure.

If you’re found this blog helpful, entertaining or you just fancy supporting us, please click the button below!

Read More
Adventures Of Jellie Adventures Of Jellie

Treasures Of Isan - The Three Whale Rock

One of Thailand’s unknown treasures, the Three Whale Rock bursts out of an Isan mountaintop in the lesser travelled Bueng Kan province of Thailand. An adventure for those in the know, the Three Whale Rock is an incredible place with unmatched views, jaw-dropping scenery and very few other Western travellers. Read our guide for everything you need to know about visiting this less travelled corner of Thailand.

Far in the northeast of Thailand is a very unusual sight. Three stone whales surf out of a forest hilltop, their enormous bodies shaped from red-brown rock. Visitors from all over Thailand come to climb the mountain and see this petrified pod of whale shaped stone. With gorgeous views out over the Isan countryside and incredible rock formations, the Three Whale Rock is a completely unique experience. 

The Three Whale Rock is found in the Bueng Kan province of Isan in northeast Thailand. This area is traditionally overlooked by Western tourists, but is full of unexpected treasures to find. Come with us as we explore the Three Whale Rock and hopefully convince you to come off the tourist trail and explore a piece of Isan. 

 
 

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

It’s not everyday you get to take a photo from the enormous back of a whale!


What Is The Three Whale Rock?

The Three Whales Rock (AKA The Three Whale Rock - although this sounds odd to us) is a geological feature found in the Bueng Kan province in Isan, deep in the northeastern corner of Thailand. 

As the name suggests, the Three Whale Rock gets its name from its uncanny resemblance to a family pod of whales. There are, as you might guess, three stone whales; the largest is known as the “father”, with the “mother” next to him and the smaller “child” in tow next to her. The rocky whales burst out of the thick jungle as if they are crashing out of the breaking green surf. 

A view of two of the "Three Whales". The red and brown stone standing in contast to the green forests all around.

The Three Whale Rock is part of the Him Sam Wan Recreation Forest Park. It’s name literally translates to Rock (Him), Three (Sam), Whale (Wan) - it’s Thai spelling is หินสามวาฬ. The park is more than just the Three Whales Rock, there are other caves, viewpoints and rock formations to visit in the park. 

The above may explain what the Three Whale Rock is, but it really can’t convey the sheer scale of the geological wonder. Read on for our day out at Him Sam Wan Recreation Forest Park. 

Ellie stands with her hands outstretched at the edge of a huge cliff. Behind her green forests and fields spread away into the distance.

Our Day Visiting The Three Whale Rock

We had a complicated start to our day. We were staying in the small but charming town of Bueng Kan (read all about it here). It was a day away from the Thai festival of Loy Krathong and we just couldn’t find a scooter to rent anywhere in town. We had tried dealerships, asked in cafes, repair shops and anywhere else we could think of. Western tourists aren’t too common in Bueng Kan and all the Thai tourists had their own cars. We were running out of options. 

Luckily for us, we were talking about our issues with the lovely staff at the Wisdom Residence Hotel where we were staying. The lady at reception knew a man who knew a man, who turned out to have the last scooter for rent in town! 

We soon had our wheels, a Honda Click that looked older than us, but it fired up on the first try and the brakes worked just fine. We had our transport.

The road to the Three Whales Rock was an easy drive. Most of the way was down the main road linking the Mekong-side towns and cities of Isan. It took us around half an hour to reach the car-park of the Three Whale Rock. See later on for more detailed directions.

We had read about the Three Whales Rock online and we had watched it on YouTube. What we hadn’t seen or read about was the huge car-park and entrance area. Just because it's relatively unknown to Western tourists, doesn’t mean it’s not famous amongst the Thai’s. We had arrived around 11am and the car-park was filling up fast. 

It’s technically possible to walk to the top of the Three Whale Rock, however when we arrived, we were strongly advised not to do this. A 6KM hike up a mountain road in the 35+ degree Thai heat didn’t sound fun! We opted for the lazy, jeep option. 

We grabbed our tickets and hopped in the flat-bed back of a pick-up-truck and headed up. As soon as we left the car-park we could see why they had advised us from walking. A narrow road rose nearly vertically up, winding around sharp bends into the forests of the mountain. 

A white flat-bed pick-up truck turns a dusty corner under green trees at the Three Whale Rock.

The entrance ticket included stops at more than just the Three Whale Rock. Our “mini tour” would take us past the Elephants Rock, the Hermit’s Cave, the Dharma Courtyard as well as multiple viewpoints. 

First stop though was the Dharma Courtyard. We hopped out of the pick-up and found ourselves looking at a golden seated Buddha sitting next to an enormous cliff of rock, shaped uncannily like a cat in mid-stretch. This shrine is where Buddhist visitors come to leave offerings, pray and burn incense. We were shown around the side, where another tiny shrine sat in a natural hollow in the rock, looking out over the green trees and view below. It was our first glimpse of the vistas on offer and even though we were less than half way up the mountain, we could see it was going to be an impressive day. 

A seated golden Buddha is pictured next to a large rock formation. The rock looks a little like a cat sitting down on its haunches.

Once your eyes adjust, the rock on the right really does look like a sitting cat!

Back in the pick-up we resumed our bouncy roller coaster up the mountain, our driver hanging out the window to point out more rocks that apparently looked like other animals, some of these were obvious but some of them required leaps of imagination that our eyeballs weren’t prepared to make. It was now time for our rocky animal safari to be taken to the next level - as we pulled up to the crest of the mountain, it was time to see some whales! 

Once more on foot, we headed through an avenue of trees, bamboo and fern, their branches and leaves knotting overhead to create an arch. The dirt turned to stone underfoot, the trees dropped away and suddenly we were walking on the spine of a whale. 

A long finger of rock sticks out over an incredible view over the Isan landscape. At the end of a rock a Thai flag and a group of tourists can be seen.

It’s so hard to describe this place, it really is like a family of whales poking out through the Thai forest. We were standing on “Daddy Whale’s” back, with “Mummy” and the “Baby” whale off to one side. The rocky whales are three jutting cliffs that reach out like stone fingers out of the side of the mountain. On three sides, sheer drops greeted us and in front and all around was the view

Ellie stands posing for the photo on the back of one of the stone whales. Huge sweeping views unfold behind her.

Isan spread out in front of us like a patchwork carpet unrolling to the horizon. Bueng Kan is mostly flat (except for Wat Phu Tok - read more about that here), so standing on the top of the Three Whales felt like standing at the tip of a lonely skyscraper. The land spread out all around us, jade forests and fields stretching out and the mountains in the horizon fading to blue..  

We headed right to the tip of Daddy whale’s nose, taking the obligatory selfies and just drinking in the incredible landscape. We moved over to Mummy whale and looked back at the sheer bulk of the rock formation. Whale is an appropriate name not just in shape but in sheer scale! 

John stands posing for a photograph from the tip of a stone whale. Behind him the flat Isan countryside stretches out in all directions.

As we’ve said before, the rock formations are relatively unknown to Western tourists, but they are very popular with Thai tourists. The air was filled with the sound of drones and Ellie was constantly being pulled in to take photos or pose for selfies (John can’t understand why he wasn’t invited). It’s always great fun to meet Thai’s on holiday, it feels like they’re living life to the fullest, no matter what age they are, they always seem like they’re having a great time. 

Speaking of which …

We didn’t expect Harry Potter brooms on the top of the Three Whale Rock but this is Thailand and you really can’t predict anything! To the left of the Three Whale Rock car-park is another flat rock with a stunning view. It also has the perfect curve whereby a photographer can crouch down and a (often incredibly enthusiastic) subject can jump on a broomstick and have a “flying” photo. We don’t know why it tickled us so much but large groups of grannies bunny hopping with broomsticks wasn’t how we pictured our day! 

Ellie appears to fly above the fields of Isan on a bromstick - she looks very happy about this!

We never said we were above some broom-based buffoonery!

The views from this rock (even without the brooms) were amazing and definitely worth investigating even if you don’t fancy a broomstick ride. 

Back in the pick-up truck we sped down the mountain, careening through towering corridors of stone and rock. We pulled over at more incredible rock formations - the well-named Elephant Rock as well as a sweeping viewpoint, pot marked with rain created craters that looked like stony Swiss cheese. A particularly amazing scenic spot was a narrow boulder and platform sandwiched between two enormous cliff-faces, in a day full of amazing viewpoints, this was yet another highlight!  

A stone elephant rises out from the trees. The natural rock formation has the trunk and head of an elephant.

The ‘Elephant Rock’ could equally be the ‘Armadillo Rock’ in our opinion!

Our driver barrelled down the last of the mountain and delivered safely back to the car-park. It had been an incredible experience. 

Unfortunately for us, when we got back to our scooter, we found it sitting in a spreading puddle of petrol. Like an elderly dog, it looked ashamed of the mess it had made. It was going to be a long way home! 

 

One of the joys of Thailand are its people. After our bike came over all incontinent and wee’d out all its petrol in the car-park, a group of Park Rangers descended like superheroes to help us out. Within moments our bike had been stripped down, impromptu fuel lined fashioned and scraps of wire secured in place - our bike had been fixed enough to limp home! We just wanted to say thanks to the amazing staff and Park Rangers of the Him Sam Wan Recreation Forest Park! It would have been a long walk home without them.

 

Essential Information For Visiting The Three Whale Rock

Where Is The Three Whale Rock

The Three Whale Rock can be found here on Google Maps. The car and motorbike parking as well as the ticket counter, coffee shops, restaurants and toilets can be found here.

The Three Whale Rock sits in the Bueng Kan province of Isan in northeast Thailand around 720 KM away from Bangkok. The nearest towns and cities to the Three Whale Rock are:

  • Bueng Kan town (24 KM away) - 30 minutes drive - this is where we stayed, check out our guide here.

  • Sakhon Nakhon (160 KM away) 2.5 hours to 3 hours drive.

  • Nong Khai (160 KM away) just over 2 hours drive

  • Nakhon Phanom (170 KM away) just over 2 hours drive on the main road.

Green forests and fields spawl away into the distance from a high vantage point view.

Isan is a very flat region so when you get a viewpoint like the Three Whales it’s really something special!

How To Get To The Three Whale Rock

The easiest way to get to the Three Whale Rock is from Bueng Kan town. If you come from Nong Khai you have to drive through Bueng Kan to get here anyway.

Bueng Kan is a great little town and a fantastic jumping off point for some of the lesser known treasures of the region. Make sure you read our guide to the town here.

We’d highly recommend seeking out your own set of wheels, it should be possible to rent through your accommodation and hopefully you won’t get a bike like ours. In their defence we had got the last bike in town as it was the Loy Krathong Festival!

Broomstick travel is not advised!

If you cannot ride a motorbike and want to arrange a taxi to take you, speak to your accommodation or head to Bueng Kan’s Bus Station and speak with the tuk tuk and taxi drivers there.

As soon as we got off our bus at Bueng Kan a lovely man introduced himself to us and gave us his number. We actually took him up on his offer the day after the Three Whales as our bike couldn’t be fixed and we wanted to visit Wat Phu Tok. We paid 1500 baht for a full day's air-conditioned taxi which we feel, despite the circumstances, was a good deal. 

If you’re organising a taxi you could even try and fit both the Three Whale Rock and Wat Phu Tock into a single action packed day. 

For those driving themselves, it’s easy to get to the Three Whale Rock. You need to get to road 3007 which is just off of the main route 212 that goes along the Mekong from Nong Khai to Bueng Kan and onwards all the way to Nakhon Phanom. If you’re coming from inland, then you’ll still need road 3007, but you might be able to get to it from route 222. All the roads are paved and in good condition. 

It was free to park our scooter in the Three Whale Rock car-park.

Opening Times And Entrance Fees

The Three Whale Rock is open everyday from 5AM until 5PM. It can get very busy during holidays, festivals and weekends. 

A 10 headed stone naga sits with red tongues out in front of some ceramic tulips.

Everywhere there are hidden secrets and shrines!

Entry to the Him Sam Wan Recreation Forest Park costs 100 baht per person. You will also need to pay 500 baht to rent a jeep and driver to take you to the top of the mountain. The jeep is plenty big enough for a family. 

If you’re going by yourself it's possible to join another group in a jeep and split the cost.

 

Vertigo And Safety

The whales and viewpoints are very very high up. The drops are massive and there are no handrails. That being said, the platforms (whales backs) are huge and you do not have to go near any of the cliff edges. There are marked out “Safety Zones” on the whales to keep you from going too close to the edge.

 
A view of the side of one of the Three Whales. Two people stand on the edge of a cliff. The drop is hundreds of metres to the forests below.

The Three Whale Rock is very high up!

Facilities At The Three Whales Rock

There are toilets at the base of the rock as well as at the top near the Three Whale Rock viewpoint.  

If you want food or drink, there’s plenty of street food stalls and sit down eateries around the car-park at the base. There is also a gloriously air-conditioned coffee shop on site! 

Two large brown rock formations come out the green Thai jungle. One is much smaller than the other and both are in the shape of whales.

On the left is the “baby” of the family - he’s a little too small to walk on though!


Conclusion - An Unknown Isan Treasure

Thailand never ceases to amaze us. The landscapes are phenomenal and endlessly varied. This little known corner of Isan is an undisputed jewel. Right now, very few Westerners are making the journey to Bueng Kan and the Three Whale Rock, we can’t imagine this will be the case forever as it is simply too beautiful. If you’re in the area don’t miss it. If you’re not in the area, hopefully this will inspire you to head northeast and explore some of Isan’s hidden treasures! 

Thanks for reading,


John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

John and Ellie stand on top of one of the "three whale's" with huge views over the Isan countryside behind.

Check Our Our Other Bueng Kan Guides Below:


If you’re found this blog helpful, entertaining or you just fancy supporting us, please click the button below!


If you’ve enjoyed reading this article, why not save the pin below?

Pinterest pin for the Adventures of Jellie article - Three Whale Rock, A Hidden Isan Treasure featuring two images of the brown stone whales.
Read More
Adventures Of Jellie Adventures Of Jellie

Bueng Kan - A Complete Guide To The Isan Town

Bueng Kan is a small market town in Isan, northeast Thailand. The town is a great spot to base yourself in to see some of the most famous sights of the region. With a bustling weekend Walking Street, a traditional local market and plenty of delicious Isan food on offer, there’s lots to keep you occupied. Read our full guide to find out what there is to see and do in the town and why you should add Bueng Kan to your Isan itinerary!

Sitting in the corner of northeastern Thailand, in the very northern fringes of Isan lies the sleepy, market town of Bueng Kan. Clinging to the banks of the mighty Mekong River and overlooking Laos, Bueng Kan is a small but charming town with a bustling market, lots of street-side eateries and a lively weekend Walking Street. Further afield the town and province are home to the famous Three Whale Rock, Wat Phu Tok as well as national parks, waterfalls and caves. 

The town and province of Bueng Kan rarely feature on any travellers itinerary of Thailand, but if you’re looking to delve deeper, explore some untrodden paths, get a taste for Isan food and see a different side to Thailand, then this guide is for you!  

Read on to find out everything you’ll need to know about visiting Bueng Kan.

A red motorbike with two passengers zooms past a brown and green house and shop front on the streets of Bueng Kan.

What’s in Our Bueng Kan Guide?

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.


What To Do In Bueng Kan

Bueng Kan Walking Street Market

(location)

Open every Friday and Saturday, Bueng Kan’s Walking Street Market opens up to locals and travellers from late afternoon until mid-evening. 

The night market is huge, sprawling all along the banks of the Mekong River. As with all weekend markets in Thailand, it is a mix of stalls; some selling vintage clothing others mobile phone accessories, local crafts and street food.

A busy night market is full of Thai locals shopping for food. On either side of the line of people are colourful market stalls selling trays of shellfish, bags of mussels and other street food goodies.

We love a Walking Street Market - we love wandering between the stalls, browsing through the wares and munching down on sticks of moo ping (grilled pork), sets of sushi (our guilty pleasure), fried chicken and mango sticky rice. A Walking Street Market is a place where you can eat as much or as little as you want! 

In Bueng Kan it was rammed with families, it felt like the whole of Bueng Kan province had descended on the night market! Come the weekend, it’s definitely the busiest spot in town. 

If you haven’t experienced a Thai Walking Street Market you haven’t travelled Thailand! 

Opening times: Friday and Saturday from 16:00 until 20:30pm.

A lady wearing a pink t-shirt and a chequered apron can be seen putting a box of sushi into a clear plastic bag. In front trays of sushi sit on red wooden boards on the market stall.
A lady wearing a red t-shirt and a black apron can be seen shaking an orange seive behind a market stall piled high with food.
 

We were lucky to visit the town during the annual Loy Krathong festivities. A huge Buddhist festival that takes place during the 12th lunar month (based on the Buddhist calendar) where Buddhists pay homage to the spirits of the water and place offerings (krathongs) into rivers and lakes to wash away bad luck and ensure good fortune.

In Bueng Kan during Loy Krathong, the whole town was abuzz. There was a huge stage set up with live music and the market was full of families buying flowers, incense and krathongs to release into the nearby Mekong. 

Bueng Kan Market

(location)

As with any small Thai town, Bueng Kan’s Market is the beating heart of the community. The main market sits inside a covered building, stuffed full of rows upon rows of stalls selling everything from fresh fruit to curry pastes, lingerie to children’s toys. A Thai market is always a great place to have a wander! 

Bueng Kan’s Market is a wet market in every sense, with stalls dripping in melted ice, selling live fish and big haunches of meat. 

Our favourite thing to do in any Thai town (Bueng Kan was no different) is to head to the market for breakfast. It’s always great fun seeing the markets in full swing and just wandering around snooping at what’s for sale - you’ll never know what you’ll find! When you’re hungry, just head to any of the food stalls that take your fancy, attempt in very broken Thai (if you’re us) to order whatever their selling and we can guarantee you’ll get one of the freshest, tastiest meals you’ll ever have eaten - we promise you won’t get fresher than the ingredients from a market food stall! 

We’d recommend heading to the market in the early morning to see it at its best as by lunchtime, the majority of the market is winding down.

Surrounding the market on all sides are plenty of sit-down eateries, so even if you don’t want to dine inside there’s plenty of places to get some munch.

A white tiled market stall is full of colourful foam krathongs. The krathongs feature a variety of different anomals and characters including a fox, bee, duck and giraffe.

When we visited, a lot of the local market was taken up with ‘krathong’s’ for sale ready for the upcoming Loy Krathong festival. There were lots of stalls selling the traditional floral krathongs as well as these newer, very cute modern takes on krathongs!

City Pillar Shrine - San Chao Mae Song Nang San Lak Mueang Bueng Kan

(location)

Sitting in the middle of a busy roundabout, a short walk south of the main market, sits Bueng Kan’s City Pillar Shrine. Guarded by two stone elephants and swathed in yellow and orange marigold garlands, the small red and gold shrine was always busy with locals leaving offerings and lighting incense. If you can, pass by the shrine at night as it’s lit up in red Chinese lanterns and is very pretty! 

Walk Along The Banks Of The Mekong River

(location)

Bueng Kan town stretches away from the banks of the Mekong. Where the town meets the river, there’s a long walking path and road running alongside it which is stuffed full of small parks, cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Whilst we were visiting, the whole area was undergoing a huge renovation project, with what looks like a new park being built and a huge curving walking path that will eventually lead out into the middle of the Mekong. 

We’d recommend picking up a coffee from the White House Cafe (more on this later) and walking along the riverfront. 


There’s a couple of temples to visit along the way, including the red and gold Wat Bupparat Samoson, Wat Pummibal Wattana with its golden Buddha statue seated outside, as well as the colourful Grandfather Shrine of Ya Bueng Kan. You’ll know you’ve reached the Grandfather's shrine when you see the ornate, Chinese style, stepped roof gateway covered in naga’s at the top. 

If you’re heading into one of the temples, just remember to dress respectfully with shoulders and knees covered! 

Along the walk, don’t miss the big sign which is watched over by two enormous, shimmering green, coiled Naga statues. The sign translated says “The northern border of Isan” and when we visited, was draped in lots of colourful offerings. 

A sign with Thai scipture translates to "The northern border of Isan". Next to the sign sit two green and gold nagas guarding the sign. Offerings have been draped on their necks and in a small shrine.

“The northern border of Isan” sign guarded by two nagas. It’s called the northern border as if you went any further north you’d be in Laos!

It is also along this road and riverbank where the Friday and Saturday Walking Street Market opens up. 

If you’re looking for a beer and a meal, we’d recommend heading to this street in the evening. There were lots of restaurants and bars dotted along this strip.

Visit The Three Whale Rock

(location)

Perhaps the province's most famous tourist attraction, the Three Whale Rock are just a 30 minute drive away from Bueng Kan.

Looking like a pod of rocky red whales beached on top of a hill in the middle of a Thai jungle, the Three Whale Rock are super impressive. From the top you can get an incredible panoramic view over the flat landscape below! 

Check out our full guide to visiting below:

Visit Wat Phu Tok Rock Temple

(location)

Wat Phu Tok lies around 50 minutes away from Bueng Kan. Clinging to a massive rock that dominates the flat landscape, Wat Phu Tok is a fascinating temple with wooden plank walkways and precarious lookouts sprouting from the rock face.

To read more about our visiting the temple and what to expect when you’re there, check out our full blog below:

Explore Bueng Kan Province - National Parks, Waterfalls and Caves

Bueng Kan town is only a tiny part of the much larger Bueng Kan province. Outside the small market town, there’s plenty to see and do. 

The most popular spot for travellers to head to is the Phu Langka National Park which runs along the border of both Bueng Kan and Nakhon Phanom provinces. In the park there’s lots of hiking trails, the famous Naga Cave and plenty of waterfalls. 

As it was the dry season we decided not to visit the national park as it’s best visited during Bueng Kan’s Wet Season (May to November) when the waterfalls are at their peak flow. Let us know in the comment what we missed! 

We will be back in Isan and next time it’ll hopefully be the right time to explore the national park properly.

A view over green forests, lakes and blue mountains in Bueng Kan Province. Photo taken from the top of Wat Phu Tok.

The easiest way to explore more of the province would be by motorbike or car. The province is very remote and rural and there’s very little (if any) public transport to the attractions themselves. Although you can easily hop between major towns by local bus - just ask at the bus station for more information.

Entrance fees to Phu Langka National Park are 200 baht per adult and 100 baht per child.


Where To Eat And Drink In Bueng Kan - Our Food and Coffee Recommendations

Dining in Bueng Kan is a very local affair, with lots of brilliant Isan cuisine on offer, if you’re an adventurous eater like us, you’re in for a treat!  However, if you’re a fussy eater (please don’t be, you’re in Thailand and the food is amazing) then you might find your dining choices are limited to cafes and 7-Eleven. If you’re ever unsure of where to head to for food in a Thai town we’d always recommend heading to the weekend Walking Street Market or the local markets in town - there always stuffed full of great local eats.

We only dipped our toes in to the local food scene, there’s so much more to offer, but here’s just some of our favourite eats in the town.

Fried Eggs at Banpu Porridge

(location)

This super popular breakfast eatery became our go-to almost every morning we were in Bueng Kan. Serving pan eggs, congee, pork rib noodle soup and pork floss baguettes, this small street side restaurant was packed with locals munching down their breakfast every time we visited.

We always ordered the pan fried eggs which never failed to be delicious and set us up for a full day of exploring.

Two fried eggs sit in a metal dish topped with strips of Vietnamese sausage, sliced spring onion and Chinese sausage.

Served on a scalding hot metal pan, two fried eggs were cooked to perfection and topped with slices of sweet Chinese sausage, minced pork, chunks of Vietnamese style pork sausage and slithers of spring onion. You can eat it just as it comes like we did, or you can ask for a crispy baguette to dip in the eggs. Coming in at 30 baht a plate, the fried eggs from here were some of the cheapest and tastiest breakfasts we’ve had in the whole of Thailand! 

Isan Style BBQ Chicken, Sticky Rice and Som Tam Salad

(location)

It should be a law in Thailand, that if you’re exploring Isaan, there’s no way you can leave without trying some of its incredible barbecued chicken, sticky rice and spicy som tam salad.

There’s no proper Google listing for this restaurant, but it’s located just next door to the PTT garage. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the huge spatchcocked chickens spread out over smoking BBQ grills. 

We ordered half a chicken, a spicy som tam salad and two portions of sticky rice and out came an Isan feast! 

The som tam was delicious. The plate was piled high with snappy papaya, sweet tomatoes and plenty of crunchy peanuts all sitting in a zingy, sharp and spicy sauce. The star of the show was definitely the chicken. As we pulled it apart, the meat was so moist, the juice would literally soak into every grain of the sticky rice.

If you’re after a good Isan feast, we cannot recommend this restaurant enough! 

A white plate is full of shredded papaya, green beans, sliced tomatoes, chilli and peanuts all sitting in the juice of a som tam salad. Next to the plate is a silver cup.
Sitting on a white plate is half a grilled BBQ chicken. Next to the plate is a small blue plastic ramekin full of brown dipping sauce and a basket of steaming sticky rice.

Streetside Wonton Soup

As evening draws in, almost every village, town and city in Thailand will have a wonton and noodle soup stand pop up on the street. 

Bueng Kan’s streetside wonton soup stand was always set up on the main road heading into town. It was so good, we ended up dining here twice! 

Two big bowls of plump, juicy pork and prawn wontons sat plunged in a delicate porky broth all topped with crispy shards of pork belly and slices of red pork. It was a huge steaming bowl of porky goodness. The stall also sells noodle soup dishes and wonton and noodle plates with soup on the side.

If you’re unsure what to eat but want to dabble at street-side eating in Thailand, just look out for the yellow signs hung above the street carts with the words ‘Chaixi noodles’ written on it in red. We’ve never had a bad meal at any of these stalls. 

Stir Fry Street Food Stall - Pad Kra Pao With Preserved Egg

This small stir fry food stall served up plate after plate of Thai favourites. From pad thai to fried rice, pad kra pao to fried morning glory and pork, whatever Thai style stir fry you fancied, you’d be able to order it at this street-side restaurant.

We headed in and decided we would order two plates of pad kra pao. As we were ordering, both of us completely forgot the Thai word for fried egg. We gingerly pointed towards the neon pink shelled eggs and hoped the server would understand what we wanted. He nodded and quickly got to work stir-frying. 

What came out was a plate of pad kra pao, but our egg was definitely not the fried variety!

A pink plastic plate is topped with white rice and pork pad kra pao. Next to the plate is a bowl filled with soup.

The slithers of black amongst the pork are the preserved egg!

The pink shelled eggs were in fact preserved eggs. On our plate amongst the steaming pork sat half an egg, its yellow interior surrounded in a thick, black jellied coat. Being adventurous eaters we had no choice but to dive in. At first we were a little unsure. The egg was super strong, almost pungent to the taste, but mixed with the spicy pad kra pao and rice, it all came together in a perfect balance of flavours - sometimes when travelling it pays to make mistakes!

P.S. If you’re after a fried egg with your pad kra pao, the word you need is kai daao

Roo-seuk-dee Cafe & Studio

Our first mission in almost any new town or city on our travels is to find good coffee. Luckily, we found Roo-seuk-dee Cafe and Studio soon after checking into our accommodation.

The interior of the cafe is super stylish with painted white brick walls, modern furniture and lots of trinkets scattered around.

Two plastic cups of iced latte are placed on wooden coasters. In front is a plate with a fork and spoon sitting next to a apple crumble muffin. The muffin is topped with a slice of apple.

The cafe itself served up phenomenal coffee - our two lattes were delicious. The best bit about this cafe though is their cakes! We ordered an apple crumble muffin and it was some of the best cake we’ve eaten in Thailand. Sweet, crumbly and stuffed full of almonds it was a naughty but necessary purchase! 

25 July Coffee

This is another super modern coffee shop in Bueng Kan set amongst a pretty garden. Inside, the cafe is painted white with a sleek concrete bar, a leather sofa and lots of antique style wooden furniture. 

We ordered two lattes and they were delicious. Nutty, milky and not too sweet, they were everything we wanted them to be for a post breakfast beverage! If you’ve eaten your breakfast at Banpu Porridge (like we did most days) it's only a short walk to this cafe.

Also the staff are super friendly and helpful! 

The whire and red wood exterior of 25 July Coffee shop sits in a pretty plant filled garden. To the right of the photo are white metal tables and chairs.

White House Cafe

This tiny, welcoming coffee shop serves up tasty coffee alongside slices of layered cake, cheesecake and other sweet treats. 

Two plastic cups are filled with iced americano. The cups have white writing printed on the outside saying "White House Coffee Space". Both drinks are topped with a navy blue straw.

We picked up a couple of iced americanos to walk with as we explored the Mekong Riverfront and they hit the spot perfectly.

The cafe is also open till late during the Walking Street Market so if you’re in need of a caffeinated brew before your market munching, head here! 


Why Go To Bueng Kan? Essential Information For Visiting The Town

Where Is Bueng Kan?

Bueng Kan is part of Thailand’s largest region - Isan and sits clinging to the banks of the Mekong in the very north east corner of Thailand. You can find Bueng Kan on a map here.

Bueng Kan is sometimes referred to as Bung Kan.

The town of Bueng Kan is also the provincial capital of the Bueng Kan district; Thailand’s newest province created in 2011. Bueng Kan sits between Nong Khai in the south west, Sakhon Nakhon to the south and Nakhon Phanom to the south east. To the north of Bueng Kan, across the Mekong, lies the province of Bolikhamsai in Laos.

Bueng Kan lies 768 KM (around a 10.5 hour drive) away from the Thai capital in Bangkok. 

How To Get To Bueng Kan?

For most travellers, Bueng Kan will be part of a larger Isan trip. In fact it was our second stop on our very own Isan Mekong discovery trail, where we would follow the Mekong and stop in the Isaan towns and cities along the way! 

 

For those spelling geeks out there, you’ll probably have spotted that we’ve been spelling Isan in two different ways: 'Isan’ or ‘Isaan’. The northeast district of Thailand can be spelt in a variety of ways with Isan being the most popular. Some other variations of its spelling are Isaan, Esan or Isarn. 

Isan is the name given to the northeast region of Thailand. The region consists of over 20 different provinces including Bueng Kan.

 

Almost all travellers heading to Bueng Kan (unless you’ve hired a car or motorbike) will arrive at Bueng Kan’s Bus Station, located 2KM away from the Mekong River. The bus station sits just off the main road that connects Nong Khai to Bueng Khan and onto Nakhon Phanom. You can find the bus terminal on a map here.

Bueng Kan’s bus station is very quiet, clean and has plenty of seating whilst you wait for your bus. There are toilets on-site and, just over the main road, opposite the bus terminal is a good sized 7-Eleven - perfect to stock up on snacks and supplies for wherever you’re heading to next - if you’re lucky and catching the bus late afternoon the roti man may also be there! 

Rows of empty metal chairs line the Bueng Kan's bus terminal. Outside a blue and white coach is parked up ready for passengers.

Bueng Kan’s bus station is very quiet!

When you arrive, there’ll be a couple of tuk tuk drivers and taxis eagerly waiting to see if they can offer you a lift into town. We declined their offers as we were staying at the Wisdom Residence Hotel only a short walk from the bus terminal.

Getting to Bueng Kan From Within Isan

Wherever you are in Isan, you’ll have no problem catching a bus or minivan to get to Bueng Kan. All the major towns and cities will have a bus station and there’ll be plenty of buses criss-crossing the region. 

To get to Bueng Kan ourselves, we caught a minivan from Nong Khai Bus Station  in the morning and arrived in Bueng Kan by lunchtime - our bus tickets cost 250 baht per person. 

A white sign displays the bus departure times from Bueng Kan to Nakhon Phanom. The words are written in Thai lettering.

Make sure to have Google Translate on your phone - a lot of the time the bus timetables are written in Thai!

There’s very little information online for the smaller bus routes in Thailand so wherever you’re starting your journey from within Isan, we’d recommend heading to the nearest bus station and asking there for up to date times and ticket prices. 

The nearest train station to Bueng Kan is either in Nong Khai or Udon Thani. Both cities have direct trains to Bangkok. From there you’ll need to catch a bus or minivan to Bueng Kan itself.  

Getting to Bueng Kan From Bangkok

The easiest way to get to Bueng Kan from Bangkok is to catch a bus. Buses depart every day from Bangkok’s Mochit Bus Station, with around 6 departures per day. Most buses will travel overnight, leaving Bangkok early evening and arriving early the next morning. Journeys will take anything from 11 to 13 hours depending on traffic / number of stops along the way.

We have used the overnight buses in Thailand extensively and have always had a comfy ride. With your bus ticket, you’ll almost certainly be given a pillow, blanket, water and snacks. There is usually a toilet on board and the bus will stop halfway for a food / toilet break. 

Book your Bangkok to Bueng Kan tickets in advance here.

Getting To Bueng Kan From Chiang Mai

Overnight buses depart from Chiang Mai’s Bus Terminal 3 everyday leaving at 17:00 pm and arriving at Bueng Kan at 08:25 am the next morning.

Book your Chiang Mai to Bueng Kan tickets in advance here.

Getting To Bueng Kan From Laos - Crossing the Thai/Laos Friendship Bridges

If you’ve come to the end of your Laotian visa and are looking to explore northeastern Thailand, you can easily cross into Thailand from one of the Thai/Laos Friendship border crossing points. From Vientiane you can enter Thailand at Nong Khai or if you’re in southern Laos, you can cross the border at Thakhek and arrive at the riverside city of Nakhon Phanom.

From both Nong Khai and Nakhon Phanom you will need to head to the bus station to catch an onwards bus to take you all the way to Bueng Kan.

Where To Stay - Hotels And Guesthouses In Bueng Kan

During our trip to Bueng Kan, we stayed at the very comfy Wisdom Residence Hotel about a 1KM walk from the banks of the Mekong. Our room was very comfortable, with a big double bed, balcony, en-suite bathroom with hot shower, air-conditioning and a small table and chair set - perfect for munching down any treats we had picked up from the Walking Street Market! The room was cleaned everyday and despite a little difficulty with communication (our Thai is appalling) the reception staff helped us with all our questions about the town and helped to find a scooter to rent for the day. 

To book a stay at the Wisdom Residence Hotel, click here.

Despite its small size, there’s still plenty of accommodation to choose from in Bueng Kan. From a 4-star hotel to local guesthouses, whatever your budget there’ll be a bed for you. To check out all the accommodation available during your stay in Bueng Kan, click here.

If you’re planning to visit on a Friday or Saturday or during a Thai festival or holiday, make sure to book your accommodation well in advance. The town does get busy and you don’t want to be left stranded without a bed! 

A line of people can be seen walking through the middle of a busy market. On either side are market stalls lining the street selling fresh fruit and vegetables.

It can get very busy in Bueng Kan at weekends!

How To Get Around In Bueng Kan?

The easiest way to explore Bueng Kan is by foot. The town is very small and is easily walkable. From Bueng Kan’s Bus Station to the banks of the Mekong, it’s only a 2KM walk. There’s plenty of pavements and even after dark, the town is well lit and as with the whole of Thailand, we never felt unsafe! 

If you’re planning to head out to explore the countryside, the Three Whale Rock or Wat Phu Tok you’ll need a set of wheels.

Scooter / Motorbike Rental in Bueng Kan

Bueng Kan is very much finding its feet with tourists and at the moment, there isn’t actually a rental shop in town where you can rent a scooter or motorbike. Our advice would be to speak to your accommodation to see if they can help.

On our first day we stopped in almost every shop or garage that looked as though it dealt in motorbikes, but couldn’t find anywhere to rent a scooter. In the end we headed back to our accommodation, the Wisdom Residence and asked the receptionist there if they could help. Luckily for us, she knew a person she could ask and a scooter was delivered to the hotel's car-park for us to rent the next day. 

We rented the scooter for 250 baht per day. 

Unfortunately on the way back from the Three Whale Rock the bike broke down, with some help we managed to get it to limp home, but we couldn’t rent it the next day, which meant we had to find another way to reach Wat Phu Tok. This brings us nicely on to …

Taxi / Tuk Tuks in Bueng Kan

The easiest place to hail a taxi / find a tuk tuk driver is at Bueng Kan’s Bus Terminal located just off the main road here. In town we rarely saw a taxi and Grab definitely doesn’t work in Bueng Kan. 

A paper business card is held up to the camera with words written 'Taxi OK' and their logo as well as their contact details.

This is the taxi driver we used!

As soon as we arrived at the bus station a man appeared offering his services. We explained we wanted to get to Wat Phu Tok and negotiated a pick up time / price.

The total cost to pay for a driver to take us to Wat Phu Tok, wait for us to explore and then drive us back to town cost us 1500 baht, an awful lot more than what we would have paid if we had a scooter for a day! But still, for a driver, an air conditioned taxi and an all day exploration it's hardly a rip off! If you can find a scooter rental, it’s definitely the cheaper option, but as we’ve said above it’s not the easiest find. Bueng Kan is definitely not on the usual tourist trail! 

Where To Go Next?

From Bueng Kan the next logical step would be to delve deeper into Isan. After our stay, we did just that. We caught the 2.5 hour bus southeast to the riverside city of Nakhon Phanom and after that, continued travelling down the Mekong to Mukdahan before turning inland to visit the Isan cities of Sakhon Nakhon, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani. 

If you had already come up through Isan, you could continue north and visit Nong Khai and its mysterious Buddha Park before heading further into Northern Thailand to visit Loei or Phitsanulok. 

If you’re at the end of your Thailand trip you could always catch an overnight bus all the way back to the international airports at Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Alternatively, you could head to the Thai / Laos Friendship Border Crossing bridges at Nong Khai or Nakhon Phanom and cross over into Laos. From Nong Khai the closest city in Laos is Vientiane (read our guide to Vientiane here) and at Nakhon Phanom you will cross into the town of Thakhek. From Thakhek you can explore the town or hire a motorbike and ride the epic Thakhek Loop - find out everything you need to know here.

Final Thoughts - Why Go To Bueng Kan?

Bueng Kan is definitely far from the normal, well-trodden tourist trail in Thailand. It’s a small town boasting endless Isan charm with great food, a bustling market and plenty of things to see and do. 

Bueng Kan is never going to be at the top of anyone’s Thailand itinerary. In fact if you asked most people to find it on a map, they’re going to struggle - Bueng Kan is a town that definitely feels undiscovered!

We only scratched the surface on what there is to see and do in the province, but we really enjoyed our time in this charming Isan town.

If you’re looking to head far from the well-trodden tourist trail and see a completely different side to Thailand, then yes you should definitely go to Bueng Kan! 

Thanks for reading, 


John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

A busy street is filled with market stalls and gazebos. The market stalls are selling vintage clothing, soft drinks and Thai tea.

If this has inspired you to explore more of Thailand, we have plenty more guides and blogs.


If you’re found this blog helpful, entertaining or you just fancy supporting us, please click the button below!


If you’ve enjoyed reading this article, why not save the pin below?

A Pinterest Pin for the Adventures of Jellie article - A Guide To Bueng Kan - Exploring Hidden Gems in Thailand's Isan Region.
Read More