Koh Chang - Our Guide To Thailand’s Third Largest Island
Koh Chang is fast becoming the new go-to Thai island for travellers in the know. Full of stunning white sanded beaches, old-school Thai island vibes, incredible nature, landscapes and viewpoints, Thailand’s third biggest island is luring backpackers and holiday makers away from the busy beaches of Phuket and Koh Samui.
Sitting just off the coast of the Southern province of Trat, Koh Chang boasts amazing beaches, sublime snorkelling and world class diving as well as boundless natural beauty and a thriving nightlife scene. Koh Chang is not as busy or well known as some of the other Thai islands, but this is quickly changing - Koh Chang is a Thai island on the rise as more and more people discover the island and fall in love with its beaches, food and scenery.
We are not usually 'big island' people, we love the small island vibes of Koh Libong, Koh Jum / Koh Pu and Koh Mook and were a little skeptical of of such a large island. We worried it would be busy, touristy and all the best beaches would be locked behind the doors of fancy resorts. We are happy to report that our prejudice was thrown in our face, we loved Koh Chang, it had exactly the vibes we were looking for and it felt like a proper Thai island escape.
This is our complete guide to getting the most out of a beachside break on Elephant Island - Koh Chang.
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Buses from Bangkok and Suvarnabhumi Airport
Buses to Trat
Buses from Trat to Koh Chang
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Koh Chang’s western coast gets fantastic sunsets!
Why Koh Chang? What is There to Do on the Island?
Koh Chang is bursting with things to do, views to admire, waterfalls to swim in and activities for every kind of adventurer. It is a large island and there is always something going on. From yoga and meditation retreats, to beach parties and all night raves, Koh Chang has something for everyone.
The Beaches of Koh Chang
This may well be the reason you are on Koh Chang. With its coastline lapped by the azure waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Chang almost has too many beautiful beaches. From party beaches to quiet resort speckled sands there is a beach for all on Koh Chang. The beaches are also stunning, from the waters you can really appreciate the nature and mountains of the island. It is quite something to be floating in the waters of a Thai island, looking back on a palm-fringed, mountain lined and jungle carpeted beach.
There were far too many beaches on Koh Chang for us to visit all of them during our stay but here are a few of our favourite beaches on the island:
Lonely Beach
(location)
The original, OG backpacker heart of the island. Lonely Beach is a huge arcing curve of perfect sands and shimmering sea. Waves, palms and sun by day, beach bars, fireshows and raves by night. If there is a party on the island this is probably where it is at. It is nearby to the Himmel mega-bar, and the budget friendly hostels and backpacker cafes of the Lonely Beach strip. We were staying in Cafe Del Sunshine (more on this later), so Lonely Beach was our local.
The easiest way to get to Lonely Beach from the 'town' is to walk up the road until you hit the parade of bars and shops here, then turn down towards the sea. Walk straight though the "Beautiful Bar" (there is a path) and across the ruins of an abandoned resort (which by the way makes a great sunset spot) and you will find yourself on Lonely Beach.
Lonely Beach - If your looking for Thai Island beach perfection… you may have found it!
We were biased as this was our closest beach but we would definitely say this was our favourite place to swim and spend an evening. We aren't exactly beach rave people but the parties only really started late into the night, it was a great place for a sunset and some beers.
Long Beach
(location)
Well, you see, there is a beach on Koh Chang and .. its not short. Accessed via a path through the Hat Sai Yao resort, Long Beach curves away with white sands, monkeys, palm trees and an aggressively named beach bar (the F*#ck You Bar). One of the quieter beaches when we visited it was a beautiful place to stretch out on the sands. Just be aware of the tides, the beach shrinks massively when the tide is in!
Long Beach is beautiful but…
The sands can completely disappear with the tides.
White Sands Beach
(location)
A long thin stretch of (unsurprisingly given the name), white sands lies hidden behind resorts and high end hotels. White Sand Beach is definitely one of the more "resort-y" beaches but that is not always a terrible thing. If you are looking for beach restaurants and a fancy cocktail, this may be the place for you. Also as the beach is on the western edge of Koh Chang, you can expect some phenomenal sunsets here.
Chai Chet / Paradise Beach
(location)
A fantastic beach, beautiful sands, waving palms the whole 9 Thai Island yards. We initially couldn't see how you got to this beach, it looked like it was entirely hidden behind resorts. We decided to be ballsy and just drive into one of the resorts (Coconut Resort). We parked our bikes and wandered through. If we got stopped we could always tell them we were looking at prices for a room or something.
Paradise Beach was always popular but never crowded when we visited.
We were overthinking this of course, it was fine to park up there and explore! The beach is stunning and definitely worth a stay. Great for families and with plenty of space on the sands, it is a fantastic beach to relax on.
We would recommend grabbing a deck chair and an iced coffee from CoCo Coffee to really chill out and enjoy the laid back beach vibes. Check out the eating and drinking section for more on CoCo Coffee.
Klong Kloi Beach
(location)
Another golden beach with bars and fantastic views. Like so many of Koh Chang's beaches it makes for an amazing sunset spot. Come sundown the beach fills up from the nearby resorts and fire dancers light up the sands.
The beach at The Galaxy Ghost Ship
(location)
A little bit of a secret (not really, but we can pretend it is). If you come down to where the Ghost Ship used to be (more on that later), you can find a small beach ideal for swimming and chilling out on. It is a perfect choice if you are looking for a smaller beach. There is a 100 baht entrance fee for the area so make the most of it and explore the old abandoned resort nearby - make sure you have read our guide to the missing Ghost Ship below.
It is not the biggest beach, but it is good if you are looking for a quieter place to put your towel.
Viewpoints
The scenery and views are a highlight of any Thai island and Koh Chang is no exception. Winding mountain roads open up to fantastic vistas over green valleys, white sands and sparkling seas. All over the island you will find observation decks, lay-bys and scenic overlooks that frame the islands best views.
Ao Ka Rang Observation Deck
(location)
At the peak of the hill on the side of the road that winds through green mountainsides is a little car park and a big view. The observation deck (more of a man made lookout point) gives incredible views back over the undulating coast of Koh Chang.
Did we mention that Koh Chang is pretty? 40 times already you say? Well here is the 41st - Koh Chang is stunning!
The Coastal Roads
(location) - All around the island!
Koh Chang is quite hard to get lost on, there is one main road that winds east and west from either side of the ferry port. This road clings to the coast as its climbs up and down the mountains of the island. Suffice to say, it is a very pretty road to drive. It is full of those moments you get when driving on a Thai island: the trees open up around you, you burst from shade into the glaring sun and suddenly, you are curving round a mountain top road with the pure blue of the sea below.
Especially lovely is the section of road leading east, away from the main ferry port. The sunrise side of the island is considerably quieter than the western edge and the roads much less busy. The views, however, are still fantastic!
As always be safe and sensible on the roads, the mountainous views do require some steep and winding roads to access. Also beware of sudden monkeys!
San Chao Pho Temple
(location)
This brightly coloured Chinese-style temple is one of the first things you will pass as you leave the ferry port (if you are staying on the western/sunset side of the island). The temple is beautiful in its own right but, as it is perched on top of a large hill, it also hides a great view.
Viewpoint over White Sand Beach
(location)
Clinging to the side of a particularly bendy section of mountain roads, the White Sands Viewpoint commands fantastic views down the curvaceous coastline of Koh Chang. You also get a fantastic view over the resorts and sands of the White Sand Beach.
Even resorts can look good on an island this beautiful!
Kai Bae Viewpoint
(location)
Another roadside stunner. This viewpoint looks right out into the Gulf of Thailand, the view dotted with the mounts of tiny green islands poking out from the blue sea. It is a really beautiful spot!
The beach below looks stunning, it also, unfortunately, looks like where people go to ride elephants... Don't ride elephants. If you want to see these majestic creatures do your research and visit a truly ethical elephant sanctuary. If your Thailand adventure takes you North to Chiang Mai we would recommend checking out Chang Chill Elephant Sancturary.
The Ghost Ship of Koh Chang - The Galaxy and the Abandoned Resort
The Galaxy Ghost ship, in all its …. former … glory.
(location)
This is a little bittersweet. We visited Koh Chang’s famous Ghost ship just after a massive fire had gutted the enormous wreck. Due to the damage we were unable to go inside but the ship itself was hugely impressive.
We love ruins and abandoned things and the Ghost Ship really lived up to the hype.
It is hard to get across the scale of the old Ghost Ship.
... However....
The Ghost Ship is no longer there. The fire made it unsafe and the vast bulk was dismantled and taken away. We were incredibly lucky to see the ship after the fire but before it was taken down.
The Ghost Ship of Koh Chang is no more :( The only remnant left is the base of the hull, which at least gives you an idea of how large the original Ghost Ship was. Whilst this is a shame for those seeking post-apocalypse vibes, it is not the end of the world. The abandoned and decaying Grand Laguna Resort is still there and very much explorable. Ornate and luxurious houseboat hotels are rotting away into their moorings, swimming pools lie empty, ornamental ponds and fountains can be found hiding amongst the greenery. It is still a mysterious and fun place to look around.
For those into abandoned ruins, the area around the old ghost ship still holds plenty to find.
There is also a small beach with deckchairs, recliners and a refreshment stall. It is a good little beach if you want to get away from the larger beaches to the north and have a little more of a private sunbathe.
The whole area has an entrance fee of 100 baht, most of the negative reviews come from people paying this without realising the Ghost Ship is no more!
Mu Ko Chang National Park
Over 70% of Koh Chang is pristine jungle, it is a very green island! The Mu Ko Chang National Park covers the whole of the island as well as over 50 of the surrounding smaller islands, totalling over 650 square kilometres! Mu Ko Chang is a beautiful area full of natural wonders, monkeys, birds and amazing views.
The entrance fee to the national park costs 200 baht per person for foreigners (100 baht for kids), but this is only payable when visiting certain sites within the area, namely the Than Mayom and Klong Plu / Klong Phlu waterfalls.
If you go snorkelling or scuba diving in the seas around Koh Chang you will need to pay for the park entrance - be aware of this as it usually is not included in the advertised price of trips! For more info on snorkelling or diving on Koh Chang see later in this article.
Outside of snorkelling / diving and the two waterfalls you do not need to pay the National Park fee when visiting Koh Chang.
The marine park around Koh Chang has dozens of small islands.
Waterfalls
The island holds some jaw-dropping waterfalls and swimming holes. The islands forests are lush and it is amazing to cool off in the fresh water of a jungle clearing.
The waterfalls on Koh Chang are highly dependent on the season. What may be stunning in the wet season can be underwhelming in the dry season.
If you are visiting in or near the wet season, we would advise you to combine the two falls into a single day’s waterfall hunting. You can use the National Park ticket at multiple places, but only for a single day! As we were visiting in the dry season and would have to pay for the National Park entry (400 baht for two people) we didn't actually get to visit the falls. Let us know in the comments what we missed!
Than Mayom Falls
(location)
Set a short walk into the lush forests of Koh Chang's eastern side, Than Mayom is a great swimming hole and beautiful set of falls ... apparently!
You need to pay the National Park entrance fee to visit the waterfall - 200 baht for foreigners, 100 for children.
Klong Phlu / Plu Waterfalls
(location)
Sitting in the middle of the island (accessed via the western road) Klong Phlu waterfall has a short nature trail, viewpoint and swimming spots as well as its cascades. There are (we hear), some shops and a toilet on site.
Again you need to pay the National Park entrance fee to visit Klong Phlu falls - see above.
Salak Phet Mangrove Forest Walk
(location)
This was an unexpected gem on Koh Chang! We have done quite a few mangrove boardwalks around Thailand and the Salak Phet Mangrove Forest is definitely one of the best.
The boardwalk winds in and out of the mangroves, sometimes shaded and covered over by the tall knotted trees, sometimes taking you over a carpet of young green leaves. Following the trail will eventually take you to a phenomenal view, the path opening up to a large platform looking out over the ocean. The boardwalk is a linear path, out and back, but a lovely walk and a nice change of pace from the other island activities.
Entrance fee for Salak Phet Mangrove Forest - Free, but with a 10 baht charge to park our scooter.
It is not clear if the boardwalk is being actively maintained so be careful and watch your footing, but do not miss out on this experience on Koh Chang.
Salak Khok Fishing Village
(location)
If you want to slow down, see some local life and maybe have a nice seafood meal, Salak Khok fits the bill. This small fishing village lies in the deep south of Koh Chang. You can wander about, watch the small local boats go in and out, eat a meal at one of the nearby restaurants or organise a tour of the mangroves by canoe.
Snorkelling and diving on Koh Chang
Koh Chang is a haven for scuba divers and snorkellers. The Mu Ko Chang National Park extends out into the beautiful oceans and holds incredible reefs, shipwrecks, turtles, islands and coral.
Many of the snorkelling, scuba and diving tours will take you out to the incredible Koh Rang island. Koh Rang is the dictionary definition of a perfect tropical island. It is here you will find some of the best dive sites in Thailand as well as great snorkelling spots and a beautiful white sand beach.
If you are looking at getting into scuba diving there are plenty of dive companies who can help get your PADI open water license. You can find them all over Koh Chang or just ask at your accommodation. Alternatively, if you want to get a spot reserved and booked in advance, check out the 3 day course offered by GetYourGuide here.
There are dozens of dive schools, snorkelling boats and island hopping opportunities on Koh Chang. You can find stalls advertising different outings on any street on the island. Make sure you check the itineraries and negotiate a good price before booking. If you are going in a group, you can often barter for a private boat for a cheaper price than the tours! If you want to try booking directly with the operators rather than with the resellers at the tour agencies, head on down to Bang Bao Pier (location). The pier is where most of the snorkelling trips depart from, it is also the pier you will use if you are island hopping from Koh Chang to Koh Mak or Koh Kood.
If you want to book in advance and see reviews first (not a bad idea in the busy high season), check out what is on offer here.
Tree Top Adventure Park
(location)
This looks like a great option if you have kids on Koh Chang or if you are just looking for something fun and physical to do.
If you keep your eyes open, you may find some other treetop swingers around Koh Chang.
We didn't actually make it here ourselves but the park features amazing views, ziplines and Tarzan Swings (whatever they are).
Prices for admission is 700-800 baht per person or 850-950 baht per person including pick up and transfer.
You can have a look at what the Adventure Park has to offer and more details on their website here.
Muay Thai Boxing
Muay Thai is an ancient and incredibly skilled martial art and something everyone should see at least once on a trip to Thailand. Known as the “art of the 8 limbs”, Muay Thai blends boxing and martial arts in an elegantly vicious way. If your idea of a good time watching others getting punched in the face, Koh Chang can happily provide!
The Koh Chang Muay Thai Stadium (location) is the premier place to watch fights on the island. There are matches every Wednesday and Saturday, starting at 20:00. Tickets can be bought for around 900 baht but you may be able to score a deal if you book in advance through an agent.
If your idea of a good time is actually getting punched in your own face, there is ample opportunity for that as well! In all seriousness, Muay Thai training provides and incredible work out and promotes iron hard levels of discipline. You can find Muay Thai gyms all over Koh Chang, and can enjoy the benefits of the rigorous training regime, even if you do not actually want to get in the ring yourself!
Organised Tours
No matter where you are staying on Koh Chang there will be someone, at a table, by the roadside offering tours, taxis, rentals, transfers and activities. You can book anything through these pop up tourist offices, just make sure you negotiate a good price and are clear what it is you are getting. Many tours will bundle in things you may not wish to do (elephant riding etc) or will not include a taxi pick up. Save yourself the headache and confirm everything ahead of time with the vendor.
If you want to book activities in advance and check out reviews before you book, have a look at Get Your Guides offerings here. As you can see there is loads to do on Koh Chang and we barely scratched the surface of what the island can offer in this article!
Where is Koh Chang? How to Get to the Island and When to Visit
Koh Chang lies in the blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand near the southeastern tip of Thailand, close to the border with Cambodia. The island is the third biggest in the country and is one of a string of beautiful islands that make up the archipelago of the Mu Ko Chang National Park.
You can find Koh Chang on a map here.
Only 270km from the capital of Bangkok, Koh Chang is easily accessible from the mainland, with multiple ferries crossing the 5km of sea between the island and the mainland every day.
The nearest city to Koh Chang is Trat (location), a fantastic and fun city in its own right.
Travelling to Koh Chang - How to get to the Island
Koh Chang is easy to get to from wherever you may start. The first step is to get to the city of Trat - The capital of the Trat province. From Trat you need to get to the Ao Thammachat Ferry Port (located here) and jump on the ferry to Koh Chang island.
To get to Trat from Bangkok you can book a bus or hop on a short flight. All the transport options will still need you to catch a ferry to the island. Many of the tickets will include this in their price - check before you travel.
Taking a Bus from Bangkok or Trat to Koh Chang
Bangkok or Survarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Chang
If you are travelling directly from Bangkok to Koh Chang (not stopping in Trat) then you can book a bus and ferry ticket together here.
If you are coming to Koh Chang as your first stop after landing in Thailand you can catch a bus from Suvarnabhumi airport straight to Koh Chang. Check out tickets here.
If you are looking for a more luxurious transfer, you could arrange for a private taxi pickup at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport. The private taxi can pick you up from arrivals and drop you at your hotel in Koh Chang - Check it our here.
Bangkok to Trat
If you want to explore Trat and Thailand’s south-eastern edge, then you can jump on a bus from the Mo Chit 2 Bus Terminal (location) or Ekkamai Bus Terminal (location) in Bangkok. The bus takes around five hours. Multiple buses leave every day, you can book online in advance through 12GO or with Thailand Bus Online. The bus to Trat should drop you off at the Trat Bus Terminal here.
Trat to Koh Chang
If you are in Trat and looking to get to Koh Chang, most of the ticket vendors will also quote you for a hotel pickup and drop off at the ferry port. If you are looking to do it independently you can catch a bus to the ferry from the Trat Bus Terminal. Buses should cost around 160 baht or less. If you are staying in the old street (where a lot of the accommodation is, including our lovely hostel) and arrange a ticket through your accommodation, there is a communal songthaew that picks up tourists in the morning. This cost 160 baht and was very convenient.
Flying to Koh Chang
Koh Chang island does not have a commercial airport. To fly to Koh Chang you need to catch a flight to Trat City Airport then take the ferry to the island. Bangkok Airways runs two to four flights a day, depending on the season. The flights to Trat leave Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport and only take one hour.
You can book flights to Trat from Bangkok (or elsewhere) below:
Flying is a good idea if Koh Chang is your first destination after arriving in Thailand, you could touch down in Bangkok and be on the island the same day! Similarly, if Koh Chang is your final destination on your Thai island adventure, you can book flights through from Trat to Bangkok and then onwards home. The flights from Trat deliver you to the main Bangkok international airport - Suvarnabhumi. Have a look on the widget above for all your flight options.
Once at Trat airport you can hop on a dedicated airport transfer bus to the ferry pier, it should cost around 280 baht. You can also arrange a private transfer to Koh Chang (book it here) or head into Trat city before making your own way to the ferry.
Getting the Ferry to Koh Chang
Ferries to Koh Chang depart the Ao Thammachat Ferry Port hourly from 6:30 - 18:30 every day. You can find the pier on a map here. Ferries to Koh Chang may be more or less frequent than this depending on the season, so check before you travel.
The prices for the Koh Chang ferry are:
Adult ticket - 80 baht
Child ticket - 30 baht
Young Children (under 110cm) - Free
Scooter - 40 baht
Motorbike / large scooter - 80 baht
Car - 120 baht
You can only buy one way tickets, no returns! You can book tickets at the ferry terminal or online in advance via 12GO here. With 12GO, the tickets will often include transfer from Trat city to the ferry and then to your accommodation on Koh Chang. Check what is included when you book as it can save a lot of hassle and money.
All transport options
If you just want an easy to book overview of the ways of getting to and from Koh Chang, check out our handy tool below:
When to Visit Koh Chang - Seasons on the Island
Seasons in Thailand are highly volatile. The weather will be hot all year round but the amount of wind, rain and storms will vary wildly between the ‘dry’ and ‘wet’ seasons. Traditionally the wet season is also the low season for travel and tourism, with the crowds being put off by the potential downpours. The high and dry season is by far the most popular time to visit Thailand and especially the islands. However, it is not as cut and dry as it may seem…
Dry Season - The peak travel time
The dry season is definitely Koh Chang's 'high season'. The dry season runs between November and March with the peak running between December and February. During the dry season there are more blue skies, calmer seas, sunny days and perfect beach weather. If you are looking for a beach escape, this is your time to visit. The downsides of the high season are that prices are significantly higher (flight costs double for example) and the island will be much busier. If you're planning to travel in the peak season, book your accommodation and transport well in advance as it sells out quickly!
Wet Season - The island without the crowds
The wet season on Koh Chang starts around April and runs to around September / October. Wet season lives up to its name, there will be downpours pretty much daily, the sea will be rougher and the weather far more changeable.
Does this mean you shouldn't visit Koh Chang in the wet season? Absolutely not! The low season means better prices and far less crowds. We have island hopped all over Thailand in the wet season and, as long as you accept that there will be rainy days, it has been wonderful. The temperature is still hot, the clouds do part and, as a bonus, wet season sunsets are amazing!
If you are set on a sunny beach break but can only travel during the wet season in Thailand, think about expanding your horizons.... Have you heard of Karimunjawa in Indonesia? You definitely should have :P
Eating and Drinking on Koh Chang - The Best Restaurants and Coffee Shops
Being such a large island means that there is pretty much every variety of food imaginable on offer on Koh Chang. Pizza to papaya salad, if you crave it, it can be found.
We are budget backpackers so our choices fell more on the cheap and cheerful side of the tablecloth. But, when the situation demands, we do know when to treat ourselves! We also have crippling caffeine addictions so have sampled a good selection of the local coffee scene.
These are some of our favourite places to eat on the island. We were staying around Lonely Beach so they may be a bit focused there but let us know in the comments if we miss your favourite place!
Cafe Del Sunshine
(location)
This cafe is an institution, it has been there forever, witnessing waves of backpackers and tourists come and go, it has seen resorts rise and fall and is still the heart and soul of the area.
We were actually staying in one of their private huts (more on this later) so we ate here whenever we were feeling lazy. The menu is great, having a nice blend between comforting familiar Western favourites and local Thai flavour. The coffee is also excellent. We especially loved their pasta offerings, after 3 years on the road, it was great to have a nice carbonara!
We actually stayed at Cafe Del Sunshine.Make sure you read our accommodation section for more details.
Tachad and Yay Eing Thai Food
(location)
Another Lonely Beach staple. You know its good when there is a constant queue of people waiting. The restaurant doesn't look like anything special; just another hole in the wall place with a few collapsible tables, bubbling soup pots and a traditional Thai menu. However, if you are looking for cheap, large, delicious Thai street food, this is your place! We ate here loads as it was so yummy (and reasonably priced). Their pad krapow moo (stir fried pork and holy basil over rice) is especially good, just make sure to get the extra fried egg and ask for it spicy.
Spicy Thai Food - How hot can you handle?
Phed is the Thai word for spicy. You can ask for different spice levels when you order: "Mai phed" for not spicy, "chai phed" for spicy or "phed phed" for very spicy. If you are brave go for "Thai phed" - Thai spicy!
Phed can be pronounced as spelt or sometimes a little more like "phet".
On Koh Chang you don’t really need to worry about it, the restaurants will always ask if you want it spicy. If they don’t ask it is because they have assumed you want it “farang Phed” or foreigner spicy aka, not spicy at all! If this is not the case, bust out the Thai above and they will happily adjust. Also it is really fun to learn a little language and it can go a long way when ordering in less touristy places!
Tachad Yay Eing and Vosa Roti share a storefront
Vosa Roti
(location)
You cannot visit a Thai island without having a roti aka a pancake/crepe. Thailand is part of the "banana pancake trail" after all. This stall may or may not be part of Tachad and Yay Eing (see above) but deserves its own mention. If you need some sweet, sticky yumminess, do not miss out.
The Coffee Home by Na Tara
(location)
We found this gorgeous little coffee spot on our scooter-borne exploration of the eastern side of the island. The cafe sits right out on a beach with its decking overlooking the sand and waves. There are loads of comfy chairs, recliners and swings to lounge on whilst sipping an iced coffee. We ducked in for some shade and a drink on our exploration and loved the iced lattes.
Coffee Home also does a great Thai iced tea!
You could spend a good while chilling out, swimming and sipping here. Na Tara sits on the edge of a fancy resort with a gorgeous looking swimming pool, so if you love the location you can stay here.
Local Roadside Noodles
(location) - No google listing just look out on the side of the road around here!
Thailand would not be Thailand without the ubiquitous, delicious roadside noodle stand. A great example or yummy cheap noodles can be found near the pretty Wat Salak Phet in the south of the island (nearly as far south as the eastern road goes). Cheap, tasty, authentic and filling, it is just what a bowl of noodles should be! This is a great little place to take a break from the more westernised Thai food around the island. They also offer Pad Thai and other Thai street food classics.
CoCo Coffee
(location)
A great excuse to park in the Coconut Resort, this beach side cafe was luxurious and lovely. We helped ourselves to some deckchairs on the sand and enjoyed a fantastic couple of iced teas. You can have alcohol, smoothies or full plates of food. It is a little pricier so we didn't order a meal but the food did look great. The location is unbeatable though, a prime spot on a pristine beach. Cold drinks and sand underfoot, it is exactly what a Thai island cafe should be.
Easy Life - Brunches, Breakfast and Burgers
(location)
If you are looking for brunch or good Western comfort food on Koh Chang - check out Easy life. Set in a very stylish comfy bar, full of beanbags and eclectic furniture, Easy life serves amazing burgers, great coffee and a good breakfast / brunch selection.
Easy life also offers rooms, check them out here.
Rasta View
(location)
The setting of this restaurant / bar couldn't be prettier. Sitting atop a hilly rise in between Bang Bao Pier and Klong Kloi Beach, Rasta View commands a fantastic view over the beaches and out into the Gulf of Thailand.
The theming of Rasta View is common on many a beach bar!
The bar has loads of different areas to sit, from sofa's and beanbags to bar seating overlooking the view. Its a popular place for groups and serves drinks, smoothies and food all day. There are also some amazing looking classic bikes to admire. It's worth a stop for the view alone!
Seafood Feasts on Koh Chang
Being surrounded by the Gulf of Thailand is good for more than just snorkelling. The seafood on Koh Chang is fresh, delicious and very plentiful. There are loads of spots on the island where you can treat yourself to some delicious seafood, here are a couple of good choices:
Dang Seafood
(location)
Big and busy, Dang Seafood sits just on the edge of the Lonely Beach village. Their roaring barbecues grill up all kinds of seafood. Dang offers platters of seafoods at great prices, with fat prawns, snapper and scallops. As soon as night falls they set up a tables full of ice and piles of the days fresh catch. You can order seafood a la carte, a platter or choose from a large Thai and Western menu.
Krau Pa Jaew, Salakkhok Village
(location)
If your going to have seafood, you want it fresh. You are not getting fresher than from the restaurant that serves the Fisherman's Village. Don't miss trying their crispy fish salad, it is delicious and completely different to Western Thai food!
Hansa Bar and Boat
(location)
Right down next to the path to Lonely beach sits a strange ship. Strange because it is on land, and that it is in fact, a restaurant. If you are looking for a sunset view with your seafood this may be unbeatable!
Thai Street Food on Koh Chang
(location) - Everywhere on the island. Look for stalls in front of 7-11's, parking lots and anywhere popular after dark.
Thailand is the undisputed king of street food. If you don't try street food in Thailand, there is no hope for your taste-buds - your palette and us will never be friends. Do not be afraid to pull up on your scooter and enjoy some “moo ping” - grilled pork on a skewer or grab some “gai tod” - fried chicken. All over you will find small stalls roasting chickens (“gai yan”), their counters full of vegetables and fruit ready to be smashed into a papaya salad (“som tam”). It is all delicious and 100% worth stepping outside of your comfort zone to experience.
7-11 - A backpackers friend in a pinch
It's not glamorous but it gets the job done for cheap.
7-11 is slowly taking over every street corner in Asia it seems these days. Whilst we are not encouraging the corporate takeover of a continent's convenience food, it is ... well convenient! 7-11 is reliable and cheap and will always have a few staples to pull you though in a pinch. Beyond the traditional cheese and ham toastie, we are suckers for their pre-boiled eggs, sushi triangles and Vit-C drinks.
Honestly there is no shame in popping into 7-11 for a quick fix, just remember that the proper street food is often cheaper!
Nightlife - Where to Go for a Party or a Quiet Drink on Lonely Beach
As we were based around the fantastic Lonely Beach, we didn't really stray too far for a drink in the evening. Luckily Lonely Beach has plenty of bars and late night revelry on offer.
Beautiful Bar
(location)
Living up to its name, the Beautiful Bar sits facing out to the sea and the setting sun. With bar seating for a perfect sunset spot and comfy cushions and loungers all over the floor, it is a very chilled out place for an afternoon / early evening drink. There is a good menu of Thai and Western food, along with smoothies, cocktails and bar snacks. Mostly though you are here for the beers and the view!
Rude Boy Bar
(location)
We wished we had found this sooner in our stay on Lonely Beach! A friendly and fun little bar full of driftwood chairs, ship parts and little nooks. It is another 'rasta-ish' bar and we really loved the view and the vibes from here.
Rude Boy Bar is definitely one of the best sunset spots on Koh Chang!
Beach Bars on Lonely Beach
(location)
Sprawling out onto the gorgeous sands of Lonely beach are a bevvy of beach bars. Each one follows a similar formula: Beer, cocktails and smoothies + beach chairs + chilled music + varying levels of reggae theming. Just find a chair with a nice view (and maybe some shade), flop down and enjoy the quintisential Thai beach bar experience.
The bars on Lonely Beach can fill up as the sun begins to set. Get there in time for a front row seat!
It is between these bars and on this beach, that the legendary Lonely Beach parties happen. They start late in the evening and continue until dawn. For when the next party is due, check with the bars or the hostels in the surrounding area.
Himmel Bar
(location)
Ok, honesty time, this was not really our scene but it is one of the most famous nightlife spots on the whole of Koh Chang. Late, loud and (apparently) never closed this bar sprawls out from behind Cafe Del Sunshine and supplies the after party for all the beach bars and raves in the area.
It is a very marmite place, we bounced off of it hard - it was a bit annoying that it pumped out million-decibel music until the dawn, even to an entirely empty bar -Himmel just wasn't for us but it is a big famous bar and clearly a place people love to come drink and dance.
Accommodation on Koh Chang - The Best Areas to Stay in
Koh Chang is a big island - Thailand’s third largest, and offers a bewildering array of places to stay. Whatever your budget and travel style there will be a hotel, hostel, guesthouse or resort for you.
The first and most important choice you will have to make is where on Koh Chang you want to base yourself. We chose the busy and lively Lonely Beach area (more on that in a moment) but there are plenty of other good choices:
The Quiet Retreat - Eastern Koh Chang
If you are looking to get away and just relax, then the eastern or sunrise side of Koh Chang might be what you are looking for. Here the accommodation is more spread out, the roads are quieter and the nights more chilled.
For a luxurious stay on eastern Koh Chang check out the Sunrise Beach Resort For a more budget conscious option, have a look at Baan Chid Talay or MountView Koh Chang.
Paradise Beach - Resorts, cafes and white sands
For a more all-inclusive approach the the perfect sands of Paradise / Klong Prao / Chai Chet Beach may be what you are looking for. The beach is lined with beach cafes and bars, with the resorts spilling out onto the sands. If you are looking for a relaxed holiday where the beach is outside your window and you don't have to stray further than your hotel bar, this could be the one. It was a very popular beach with families when we visited and the soft sand and gentle waves were amazing.
There are dozens of resorts to choose from, the Coconut Beach Resort looked very comfy when we borrowed its cafe for a beach day!
For those in search of the finer things, have a look at the swanky Koh Chang Paradise Resort and Spa or the lovely bungalows at Flora I Talay.
If you are more budget conscious there are lots of great options just off the beach that are considerably cheaper. Have a look at the Habitat Hostel or the Eastique Hotel.
Lonely Beach - Backpackers, Bars and Nightlife
Lonely beach is split into a few areas: The “village” holds the accommodation, shops and bars. The “Strip” has more bars and leads down to the actual beach, where the beach bars and late night parties are.
The Lonely Beach area is the old backpacker heart of Koh Chang. Here is where you find the budget hostels, beach bars, parties and budget friendly dining. It is more than just late night beach raves however, the area has fantastic cafes, yoga retreats and quieter places to stay.
Confusingly most of the accommodation in Lonely Beach is not, in fact, on Lonely Beach. Most of the places to stay are centered around here.
For the backpacker on a budget there is Crazy Monkey or the fantastic Cafe Del Sunshine. Cafe Del Sunshine is a local institution and has been the heart of the area forever. They offer large cheap dorms as well as very nice private bungalows (our choice).
Be aware that, if you are staying the the heart of Lonely Beach (around the Crazy Monkey / Cafe Del Sunshine area), it is very very loud at night. The Himmel Bar pumps out music well into the early hours. We were warned before we checked in and the warnings were well warranted (try saying that fast)! It wasn't an issue for us but this is not the area for quiet nights!
If you are looking for a little more serenity but still want to be near the action then just look across the main road and at the accommodation that climbs up the neighbouring hill. We walked up to Oasis Koh Chang and its bungalows and pools looked like a lovely escape. There is also the more basic, but more budget friendly Ploy Inn Koh Chang.
There are beachfront options at Lonely Beach but they do come at a premium. Have a look at the nearly beachfront Bhumiyama Plus.
All Koh Chang accommodation choices
There are hundreds of hotels, resorts and hostels on Koh Chang, we couldn’t possibly begin to list all of them. There are also loads more fantastic villages and areas to stay. We were focussed on Lonely Beach but you may find your own slice of paradise elsewhere. Check out our handy accommodation map below and let us know in the comments if you have a favourite area.
Getting Around - Transport Across the Island
First things first, Koh Chang is big, it is the third largest Thai island with only Phuket and Samui being bigger. The whole island is built around beaches and small towns, to get between any of them you are going to need transport. Luckily Koh Chang actually has a good few options for getting around and, unlike some other islands, they won’t break the bank!
Scooter Rental
The most popular way around the island is definitely scooter rental. Everywhere offers rental, prices vary but we rented a larger nicer 155cc scooter for 350 baht per day. You can definitely pay less than this but with two of us on the bike we wanted a nice one that wouldn't struggle on the steeper hills. We kept things simple and rented our bikes from our accommodation - Cafe Del Sunshine. Make sure you check the reviews and video any damage on a scooter rental before driving away!
Be very careful driving on Koh Chang. There is basically one large road that goes in a huge horseshoe around the island, this means that all of the traffic is on the same road. Koh Chang is very hilly, the roads rise sharply and descend down fast coiling many-cornered routes. There is an especially notorious section just to the north of Lonely Beach that catches many a novice scooterer out. Be very careful if you chose to drive on Koh Chang, doubly so in wet conditions, you are almost certainly not covered to drive scooters by your insurance and an island hospital visit can be very expensive.
All that doom and gloom out of the way, we love scootering around and Koh Chang was no different. It was great to just hop on, helmet up and go wherever we felt like.
Island Songthaews
Koh Chang has invested in a great way for people to get around the island. A chain of open sided Songthaews shuttle up and down the island. The fares run around 100 - 150 baht just confirm with the driver before you jump in. To hop on and hop off the open-sided trucks, just hail one down on the island’s main road, tell them where you are going and zoom off. This is a great system and really opens the island up to those who might not be comfy driving on the hilly roads.
Songthaew - Common all over Thailand these are converted trucks or 4x4,s where the back portion has been changed into an open sided people carrier. They are often brightly and uniquely painted and are usually one of the cheaper ways to get around. On the mainland they usually run defined routes, like a bus. On Koh Chang they mainly run up and down the long western road. To hitch a ride just flag one going the right direction down, agree a destination and a price and hop on the back. The name songthaew translates to “two rows” as the seating is usually 2 benches opposite each other. Now you know!
Just note that the songthaews are most common on the western road of the island, they are very rare on the eastern side so you may need a private taxi to explore the east. Confirm that the driver is going where you want before you get on! Also it's worth remembering that the taxis and songthaews will be much more common in the high season (November to March / April) than in the less busy months.
These island songthaews are very useful when you get dropped off at the ferry pier when arriving on Koh Chang. If your accommodation doesn't include a pick-up, head over to a waiting songthaew and wait for it to fill up, the busier it is, the better the price. We paid 100 baht each for us and our bags to be ferried from the pier to our hostel at Lonely Beach.
Koh Chang is not an island you can just walk around.
Private Taxi's on Koh Chang
Everywhere will offer this. Every single town, resort, village or hostel will be able to call and arrange a car to come and shuttle you wherever you need to go. It will, of course, be the most expensive option, but sometimes you need to pay up to get where you want to go.
Many of the activities on the island will include free taxi transfer, this includes most ferry tickets off of the island. Check when you book anything as this is a very handy perk.
ATM's, 7-11, Petrol Stations, Hospitals and Creature Comforts
Koh Chang is a big island and has everything a traveller could need. ATMs are everywhere, every town will have at least one. If you are not sure where to look, 7-11 stores will almost always have one outside. Speaking of which; there are nine 7-11's on Koh Chang so you won't find yourself wanting for a cheese toastie! If you are in need of a pharmacy, most of the hub towns will have one or more. Some of the larger 7-11s also have pharmacies attached.
Petrol is also in plentiful supply with both large petrol stations and small local pumps - you should not find yourself stranded on a scooter.
Hopefully you won't need them but the island does have two dedicated hospitals. Bangkok Hospital has a branch on the island here. It is meant to be quite expensive for those without insurance (4000 baht to see a doctor). The hospital is open 24 hours and has emergency facilities. There is another more local style hospital here its prices are lower but the wait time will be much longer.
Where to Go Next - Other Islands, Trat, Bangkok, and Cambodia
Koh Chang is fantastically well connected, after you have finished on the island you can move on to loads of other amazing destinations.
Koh Mak and Koh Kood
If you are looking at moving to a smaller, more intimate island, Koh Mak and Koh Kood are fantastic choices. Both islands are a short ferry ride from either Koh Chang or from mainland Trat. Koh Mak and Koh Kood are both stunningly gorgeous with secluded beaches and amazing accommodation. You can book ferries from pretty much anywhere on the island or, if you want to book it in advance (a good idea in peak season), you could use 12GO:
We have visited both islands and can confirm that they are little slices of paradise! We actually spent Christmas on Koh Mak, but that is a story for another time...
There are plenty of options for those looking to hop to another island.
Explore Trat Province
The city and province of Trat are under-appreciated gems.
Trat is a properly fun Thai city with plenty of great food and loads to see and do in the surrounding countryside. There is a daily night market serving up fantastic local dishes as well as a massive weekend market that stretches all the way down one of Trat's historic streets. Most people either just pass through Trat or have an overnight there before transferring to one of the nearby islands. It is 100% worth slowing down and having a proper explore.
Trat is the nearest city to Koh Chang and is home to the airport that those in a hurry may have used to get to the island. Most ferries going to the mainland will dock at Ao Thammachat Pier in Trat province, you can book the transfer with you accommodation on the island or in advance on 12Go:
The province of Trat is full of amazing nature and things to see and do. It has fantastic beaches, waterfalls and temples. The coast road clings to the cliffs and marks the thinnest part of Thailand. There are also loads of amazing and cheap seafood restaurants.
Bangkok
The Thai capital is is 320km north of Trat and there are plenty of direct buses going daily between the two cities. The journey takes between 4 and 5 hours and can be booked at Trat Bus Station or online with 12GO here. Most of the Bangkok buses will drop you off at the Ekkamai Bus Terminal.
You can easily buy through-tickets to take you all the way from your accommodation on Koh Chang to Bangkok, these tickets will include the ferry from Koh Chang to the mainland. You can again, book from any tour agent, hostel or hotel on Koh Chang or in advance via 12GO here.
You can even book tickets straight from Koh Chang to Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok if Koh Chang is the end of your Thai adventure. Check out the options here.
Make sure you check out the pick up and drop off destinations when booking tickets.
If you are pressed for time and want to fly, there are 2 flights a day from Trat Airport to Bangkok (and visa-versa).
Cambodia and Koh Rong / Koh Rong Samloem
Koh Chang and Trat Province are very close to the Cambodian border. The Khlong Yai Border Point is only 89Km (1 hour 20 drive) from Trat town.
There are also daily ferries that can take you to the backpacker favourite islands of Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem.
At the present moment, there are tensions between Cambodia and Thailand and the borders have been closed to tourists. We very much hope this is only temporary and everything will be resolved soon. When the situation settles we will update this and add the transport options.
Honest Thoughts From Two Long-Term Backpackers - Is Koh Chang Worth a Trip?
We were so worried when we booked a trip to Koh Chang. Would the island be too touristy? Would it just be an endless parade of gated resorts? Would there be any good food?
Before Koh Chang we were definitely 'small island people', but Koh Chang blew us away with its beauty, beaches and backpacker vibes. The island is busy, it is Western focussed, it does have tons of resorts, but somehow it has completely preserved the appeal that brought the original backpackers in the 70's. Koh Chang has enough of the modern conveniences for a family on holiday but also keeps its rough heart, beach bars and late night parties for the backpacker crowd.
Koh Chang is beautiful, the island is simply gorgeous. The rolling mountainous roads, sparkling seas and lush green jungles are amazing. The snorkelling, beaches, viewpoints and diving are world class - Koh Chang is a perfect Thai island escape.
Koh Chang manages, somehow, to be a Jack of all Trades and still a master of all! We will be back!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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