Koh Kood - Thailand’s Undiscovered Island Jewel
Koh Kood is literally a tropical island paradise. Sitting in the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand, surrounded by beautiful white sand beaches, Koh Kood is everything you’d expect a Thai island to be. It’s one of those places where if you asked a child to draw a picture of what they thought a tropical island should look like, it would come out like Koh Kood.
It’s an absolute stunner of an island, with palm fringed beaches, gentle lapping waves, bright white sand, so white it literally sparkles and a warm and shimmering, turquoise sea.
Despite its natural beauty and being an easy journey away from Bangkok, Koh Kood has escaped mass tourism. It’s an island that remains relatively undeveloped and even in the height of the peak season, you’ll still be able to find your very own slice of paradise!
We had a fantastic stay on the island, spending our days beach-hopping, swimming in the sea and lounging around soaking up the quiet Thai island.
This is our complete travel guide to visiting the undiscovered jewel in the Gulf of Thailand - Koh Kood!
What’s in Our Koh Kood Travel Guide
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What to Do on Koh Kood?
There’s plenty to see and do on Koh Kood - even if you’re just planning to spend your time horizontal on the sands. Whether you’re an adventurous islander or a beachside bum, we can guarantee that you won’t be bored on Koh Kood.
Swim and Sunbathe - the Best Beaches on Koh Kood
The beaches are almost certainly the main reason why you’ve chosen a break on Koh Kood - they are beautiful! In all our travels, they’re definitely up there as some of the prettiest beaches we’ve ever seen.
During our stay, we explored every nook and cranny of the island and these are some of our favourite beaches on Koh Kood.
Khlong Chao Beach
(location)
Khlong Chao Beach is literally paradise in every sense of the word. A huge white sandbank stretches out towards jungle covered cliffs. The sand is so pearly white on this beach, it literally sparkles underneath the intense Thai sun. We’ve heard people say that sand can squeak when you walk over it but we’ve never experienced it ourselves, that was until Khlong Chao!
We stayed very close to this beach at the fantastic Baan Klong Jao Homestay (more on this later) and spent most days swimming and relaxing on this beach.
The beach is lined with the luxury 5-star resorts of the Tinkerbell Resort, the High Season Pool Villa & Spa and the Wendy The Pool Resort but don’t worry, even if you’re not staying at these hotels there’s plenty of space on the sand to lay your towel down.
If you’re driving to the beach there is a small car park just off the main road (located here). It’s at this end of the beach where you can get a great spot on the sand a little further away from the private resort bungalows. There’s also plenty of shade from the palm trees lining the beach.
At the other end of the beach, just past the Hook Resort bar and restaurant is a massive bank of sand that stretches out, forming a natural boundary between the gentle ocean waves and the mangrove lined estuary - this sandbank is a great spot for sunset!
There’s plenty of places to rent kayaks from in Khlong Chao!
If you don’t fancy a beer or munch in one of the resort owned restaurants, there are plenty of other options lining both sides of the main road behind the beach on the main Khlong Chao village strip.
Ao Taphao Beach
(location)
Ao Taphao is another gorgeous beach on Koh Kood. A long stretch of pure white sand, swaying palm trees and gentle waves. It’s another beach which is absolutely impossible to describe without sounding cliche!
We found a great spot under a palm tree and spent an afternoon swimming in the sea and lazing around on the beach.
To reach the beach you’ll need to park just outside the Sea Far Resort and walk through its garden until you reach the sand.
On the sand there is a small wooden pier, selfie swings and deck chairs to rent for 100 baht. There’s also a couple of resort owned bars which are a little pricey, but for the beachside view you can’t complain!
At hide tide the beach almost disappears, but there’s still just enough sand to lay out on.
Bang Bao Beach
(location)
Bang Bao Beach is possibly one of the prettiest beaches we’ve ever seen on our travels. Surrounded by jungle and towering palm trees, a huge bay arches away in a gentle curve. From the shoreline you can literally see the water change colour as it goes from crystal clear to vibrant turquoise all the way to deep azure blue - it’s like all the shades of blue have been mixed on a painter's palette.
There’s plenty of shade on the beach as the whole sandy bay is lined with palm tree cubby holes. You can either choose to lie out on the sand, or make a camp on the shaded grass in front of the Siam Beach Resort bungalows.
In the middle of the beach a long wooden jetty juts out into the sea. When we visited it was full of young children jumping into the water.
If you’re planning a full day at this beach there are a few bars and restaurants dotted along the shoreline.
To get to the beach, turn off the main road and follow the signs. There is a free carpark next to the BB Diving Company and the Siam Beach Resort.
Haad Khlong Hin Beach
(location)
Haad Khlong Hin Beach is a little trickier to reach by scooter, but once you’re there you’re more than rewarded for your adventurous bravery.
Khlong Hin Beach is another beautiful beach, a curving bay of golden sand studded with palm trees. It’s such a pretty bay with super clear water, so warm that feels as though you’ve stepped into a bath (at least it did when we were swimming in it in December)! The water is perfect for swimming. It’s shallow for quite a way before it drops off, so you can easily laze around in the water.
There’s plenty of shady spots underneath the palm trees and we didn’t have any trouble finding our very own little private nook on the beach to lay down our towels.
If you’re planning a full day on this beach, there are a couple of shops and a smoothie stall to buy drinks and snacks from near the carpark or if you’re after a full meal, then there’s a restaurant directly on the beach.
To get to the beach you’ll turn off the main road, following the road until it splits in two. Both routes are very sandy, but if you go slowly, you shouldn’t have any problems. From there the small road alternates between thin strips of concrete and sandy paths. At the end of the road you’ll first reach the Hideout Resort carpark. Don’t park here, continue down the sandy track (only about a minute’s drive away) to the grounds of the Khlong Hin Beach Resort. Here you’ll find plenty of free parking.
Ao Phrao Beach
(location)
Another absolute stunner of a beach - golden sands, palm trees, bright blue sea, the works!
After Khlong Chao Beach, Ao Phrao is the next real hub for travellers, with plenty of accommodation, restaurants, beach clubs and bars all within walking distance of the sands.
On the beach itself, there is a long wooden pier that juts right into the sea. At the end of the jetty there’s hammocks to lounge in right above the water!
As you approach Ao Phrao Beach, don’t miss the white and gold seated Buddha statues staring down at you from the Wat Ao Phrao temple.
To park our scooter, we just followed the road until it ran out and parked next to Jao Tin Seafood restaurant.
Swim in a Jungle Waterfall
If you fancy a break from the turquoise waters on the coast, then Koh Kood can provide two other natural swimming pools. Hiding in the dense jungle interior, both waterfalls are stunning!
Khlong Yai Kee Waterfall
(location)
Khlong Yai Kee Waterfall is located in the north of the island a short drive from the main road. The waterfall is free to enter. Just park up in the carpark and follow the short but steep concrete stepped path that leads down into the jungle.
At the bottom you’ll need to scramble over some stone boulders and rocks that litter the riverbed. After about 5 minutes of clambering, the waterfall will reveal itself!
A stepped vertical cliff of stone sits like a massive dam in the middle of the river. In the centre of this rock face, a small white curtain of water tumbles down into a deep jungle pool.
We were visiting at the peak of the dry season and were worried we’d see a completely dry waterfall, but there was still water flowing!
It didn’t take us long to dive into the cool water. The pool is deep enough to swim around and is super refreshing. Just be warned that if you’re ticklish, like Ellie is, there are lots of fish who like to nibble on your toes! We spent a good few hours swimming in the jungle pool and relaxing on the flat rocks. There’s also a secret pool at the top of the waterfall, explore at your own risk!
Be careful when you enter and exit the pool of water - the rocks are extremely slippery and it’s very easy to slip over on them - John’s bruised bum can attest to this!
Entrance fee: Free
Khlong Chao Waterfall
(location)
A 5 minute drive (2 KM) from Khlong Chao Beach, Khlong Chao Waterfall is another hidden jungle gem.
To reach the waterfall, just follow the signs through the jungle until you reach the riverbed. From here, you’ll need to jump across a couple of small channels in the rock and clamber over some smooth stones until you get to the falls.
Khlong Chao Waterfall is stunning. A big circular pool sits carved out of the jungle, whilst a gentle cascade of white water tumbles down. There are a couple of rope swings hanging from the towering canopy above and plenty of flat rocks to drop your towel on.
If you are staying in the Khlong Chao area and wanted somewhere different to relax, you could easily spend a morning or afternoon swimming around / lounging out on the hot rocks.
There weren’t any shops or restaurants nearby, so we’d recommend packing a picnic to make the most of your visit!
Entrance cost: Free
Visit the Big Buddha Statue and Wat Ao Salad Temple
(location)
Sitting in the very north of the island on a cliffside above Ao Salat Pier is Wat Ao Salad Temple. If you came to Koh Kood from Koh Chang or the mainland, you almost certainly will have seen the golden Buddha staring down at you when you arrived on the ferry.
We parked our scooter in the temple grounds and headed straight to the base of the Buddha. The viewpoint from the Buddha statue is spectacular - a sweeping panoramic vista over the cliffs and coastline all the way out to the Gulf of Thailand. It’s stunning!
Staring out over the waves is another pair of eyes, a bronze statue to the Prince of Chumphon - also known as the “Father of the Thai Navy”. Underneath in the circular base of the Buddha were more Buddha statues, a shrine and paintings.
The best view of the Buddha is actually from the temple's belltower. Just climb up the narrow staircase to the bell at the top and you’ll have a top down view over the temple grounds, seated golden Buddha and out to sea.
This is an active Buddhist temple, so if you are planning a visit, please be respectful and dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees need to be covered and definitely no bikinis allowed!
Entrance fee: Free
To visit, just park your scooter in the free car park and head in.
When we arrived at the temple, there were a couple of temple dogs who came eagerly over to us, tails wagging to sniff our bike, but after a sniff and some head-strokes they slunk off to sunbathe!
Visit the Traditional Fisherman’s Villages on the Island
In amongst the fancy resorts and hotels on Koh Kood, sit two fisherman’s villages full of traditional stilted houses and colourful fishing boats.
Klong Mad Fisherman Village
(location)
The Klong Mad Fisherman Village was an unexpected delight on our exploration of Koh Kood. As we approached Klong Mad, we could only see the rooftops of the Suanya Koh Resort, but as we turned the corner, the fishing village came fully into sight.
We parked our scooter next to the jetty and headed into the village. Stilted houses rose up next to moored speedboats and traditional wooden fishing boats. Despite the number of boats parked up, the water was still super clear. We had a leisurely wander around the village and stopped in for an iced coffee at Weeraya Café (more on this cafe later).
There are a couple of restaurants and shops in the village, including the very popular King Seafood Restaurant - we were extremely tempted to pop in for a very early lunch when we saw the fresh catch of the day grilling on the charcoal BBQ outside!
You won’t need long at Klong Mad, but it’s a very chilled out spot. Don’t leave without taking a walk up the long wooden jetty that juts out into the azure waters.
It’s this jetty that, depending on the tides, you may use if you’re heading to Koh Mak after your stay on Koh Kood (more on this later). Many of the islands fishing, snorkelling and scuba diving tours will leave from Klong Mad village.
Ao Yai Fisherman Village
(location)
The Ao Yai Fisherman Village is a proper, working harbour.
Full of stilted houses, colourful fishing boats moored up and towers of wooden lobster pots stacked up in precarious piles.
As we wandered through the village on the raised concrete path, we passed by nets of drying fish and tanks full of translucent squid - you know you’re in a proper working harbour when the air is thick with the smell of salt and seafood.
We decided to head to Ao Yai Fisherman Village to have a seafood feast at Noochy Seafood (more on this in our where to eat section of this article), but there’s also the very popular Chonthicha Seafood restaurant too. We’d recommend wandering through the village and seeing which restaurant has the best seafood and fish on offer that day.
If you want to stay in the village there’s a very pretty, traditional wooden homestay right in the heart of the village, sitting on stilts right above the water you’ll be in the heart of the harbourside action every day - check out the rooms available at Koh Kood Chonthicha Homestay here.
Kayak at Sunset
We’ve been lucky to see many sunsets, but bobbing, laid back in a 2 person kayak in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand watching the sun light up the sky above us in deep oranges and purple will be a memory we treasure forever!
We lucked out and our homestay, the fantastic Baan Klong Jao Homestay (more on this later) had kayaks to borrow for free. Late afternoon we would stock up on supplies, change into our swimwear and hop into our kayak. We would kayak up and down the small mangrove estuary, before navigating our way around the huge sandbank at Khlong Chao Beach (near to the Tinkerbell and Hook resort) and paddle out to sea. We’d then sit back and float around with our drinks waiting for the sun to perform.
We did say kayak sunsets were special!
The sunsets on Koh Kood were magnificent - the sky lit up with all colours of the spectrum as the sun lowered its way down to the deep blue horizon! There’s something magical about watching the sun set, but watching it from the middle of the ocean takes it to a whole different level!
The guesthouses and resorts all along Khlong Chao have kayaks to rent for free, but if you’re not staying in the area, head over the bridge to the small shop located here which had kayaks to rent - depending on the size of kayak, rental started at 150 baht to 250 baht per hour.
If you’re renting a kayak, we’d recommend buying a couple of cheeky beers before you set off. Once you’ve found your perfect sunset spot in the ocean, lie back, crack open a can and watch as the sun performs its fiery display - go for cans at the shop, they float much better than bottles and are much easier to store in a small kayak! Remember to bring all litter back home with you, leave only oar prints!
Go Diving or Snorkelling off Koh Kood
Sitting just off the coast of Koh Kood is the beautiful Koh Rang National Park, a marine park that’s stuffed full of dive spots. With colourful coral, old shipwrecks and shoals of tropical fish, it’s a huge underwater playground for snorkellers and scuba divers.
If you’re after a trip underwater, head over to the Koh Kood Divers, a dive centre located on the main strip of Klong Chao (located here) who offer everything from one day snorkelling trips to multi-day dive excursions. They can also help you get qualified with a PADI scuba diving certification.
For those who have limited time on the island or who want to guarantee a place on their PADI course, check out the following excursions on Get Your Guide:
Or to book a snorkelling trip in advance:
The majority of diving and snorkellings trips will not include the price of the Koh Rang Marine Park ticket fee. To head into the marine national park, you will be required to buy an entrance ticket. Tickets for the marine park cost 200 baht per adult and 100 baht per child per day for snorkellers and 400 baht per adult for divers. The Koh Rang Marine Park fees are an additional cost to any advertised rate.
The waters around Koh Kood were some of the clearest we’ve ever seen!
Visit the Scenic Viewpoint
(location)
If, like us, you've planned a seafood feast in Ao Yai Fisherman Village, then you’ll stumble upon this viewpoint along the way.
As the road slopes down towards the harbour, a small layby and viewpoint emerges out of the thick jungle with views over the colourful Ao Yai Fisherman Village and out to sea.
Just getting to this viewpoint is half the fun. The road there is full of steep hills that curve their way in and out of the thick jungle - just beware of monkeys!
You won’t need very long at the viewpoint, but it’s a great place to stop and admire the scenery.
Entrance fee: Free
Ride over the Wooden Bridge
(location)
The ‘Wooden Bridge’ isn’t an essential ‘must do’ on the island, but if you’ve hired a scooter it's worth a little detour, even if it’s just for the drive itself.
Spanning a small coastal estuary, the wooden bridge is exactly as its name suggests - a wooden bridge! The rickety bridge is made up of hundreds of mis-matched planks that stretch between the thick mangroves on either side of the channel. As you drive over it, the bridge creaks a little and definitely feels like a mini adventure - it feels a world away from the resort filled sands!
There are a couple of beaches to the north, including Khlong Han Beach and a Secret Sunset Beach - access to both down private resort roads. We didn’t stop at either of these beaches and continued driving north, let us know what we missed in the comments.
Our northbound island exploration was swiftly brought to an end as we were halted at a set of gates marking the entrance to another resort.
Behind the gates sits the very luxurious looking 5-star Soneva Kiri Resort hotel. On our backpacking budget we had no choice but to turn back, but have since looked longingly at the hotel online. From a quick look on Google, it looks incredible - think private beach, infinity pool, spa, the works!
If you’re looking for an ultra-luxe stay on Koh Kood, you won’t find much better than the Soneva Kiri resort. Click here to book a stay!
Spend an Evening at Koh Kood’s Night Market
(location)
Koh Kood’s daily night market became our ‘go to’ every evening for dinner. The market is open every day and is only a short walk away from Khlong Chao Beach - there’s plenty of parking if you’re heading there by scooter.
The market is essentially one big, covered food court. On one side, sit a large array of different street food stalls lining one edge of the hawker centre, whilst opposite, a huge bar serves up ice-cold beer, cocktails and smoothies. Crowning the top of the food court sits an old-school, red vintage Thai bus which has stylishly been converted into a live music stage and coffee shop.
Every evening we’d head here, pick up a couple of beers, grab a table and start an evening of market munching. Each night we visited there was live music and it was always busy with other travellers and the local youth. We saw a variety of different cover bands who played a mixture of Thai classics and Western covers - think Don’t Look Back in Anger and Country Roads mixed with the “Rocket Festival and “Do-Ther-Tum”. We love a cover band and Thailand does them especially well!
In terms of food, we ate at almost every stall - from mango sticky rice to satay chicken, BBQ meat to dumplings, we tried everything! The pad kra pao stall was especially delicious, charred, caramelised meat sitting on a pile of steaming rice - just remember to ask for a runny fried egg and make it spicy!
Another stand-out dish was the Thai styled fried fish and rice bowl, a Mexican / Thai hybrid of a dish that was completely unlike anything we’ve ever eaten before.
At first glance it looked as though it would be a little plain, but this was certainly not the case. Every mouthful was a flavour bomb of different tastes. Zingy, salty, citrussy, sweet - our palettes were on overdrive!
We’ve since found out that this is actually a traditional Thai dish, we’ve had it several times since and it's one of our favourite unexpected Thai treats - just look out for it on menus, it's sometimes called crispy fish salad or fish with rice powder.
Koh Kood’s Night Market is definitely aimed more at the tourists on the island than locals, but we absolutely loved our evenings there. It was super laid-back and had a great chilled out vibe. If you want to eat different street food from both Thailand and from around the world, sip on ice-cold beers and listen to live bands, then definitely don’t miss out on visiting the market.
This brings us nicely onto ….
Where to Eat and Drink on Koh Kood?
Koh Kood is a melting pot of cuisines from all around the world. From Thai street food to Italian pizza, there’s plenty of places to eat on the island. Here are some of our favourite places to eat and drink.
The Best Restaurants and Coffee Shops
Ra Beang Mai
(location)
If you’re looking for lunch or dinner with a pretty view, Ra Beang Mai is an absolute must. We may be a little biased as this restaurant is part of the Baan Klong Jao Homestay where we stayed. We loved eating here with its view over the mangroves and small estuary, especially after returning from our sunset kayak.
Ra Beang Mai serves up all the Thai dishes you’d expect on an island all with a big focus on seafood. Their Thai soups stuffed full of seafood and deep fried shrimps studded with garlic are popular for a reason!
Not a bad view to enjoy a seafood feast with!
Koh Kood Aroi Aroi
(location)
Sitting on mangroves just a few doors down from the Bartist bar (more on this later), this small streetside restaurant pumps out plate after plate of Thai street food favourites.
From pad thai to pad kra pao, fried rice to noodle soup, whatever Thai dish you fancy, this small restaurant can provide.
We headed here as soon as we arrived on the island for a lunch of chicken noodle soup and it was… as the name of the restaurant says… aroi aroi - delicious for those who can’t speak Thai!
Noochy Seafood
(location)
A seafood feast is almost a rite of passage on any Thai island break - in fact it would be sacrilege not to dine on fresh seafood when it’s right on your doorstep.
We always try to treat ourselves to a fisherman’s bounty whenever we’re by the coast and Koh Kood was no different.
Set in the heart of Ao Yai Fisherman Village and sitting on stilts right above the waters of the harbour, Noochy Seafood restaurant is your quintessential Thai seafood restaurant. Outside huge tanks are full of live squid, dark black sea anemones and crabs of every shape, size and colour.
We ordered a fishy feast of deep fried chunks of sea bass covered in a spicy, red curry paste and scattered with zingy shredded lemongrass alongside a huge plate of fried rice studded with crab. The sea bass was delicious. Crunchy, spicy and a little creamy, it paired so well with the sweet crab meat in the fried rice.
If you’re looking to treat yourself to lunch with a view, Noochy Seafood fits the bill.
The restaurant can get very busy especially at lunchtimes so expect a little wait for your food.
If you have room after for a sweet treat or coffee, head next door to The Marie's Land Cafe who serve up decadent slices of cheesecake, muffins and iced coffee.
There really is no better meal than a fishy feast on a Thai island!
TumKorat (ร้านตำโคราช)
(location)
We stumbled upon this roadside restaurant on the last day of our stay in Koh Kood and wished we had found it sooner!
Serving all things Isan food, TumKorat was one of our favourite lunches we ate during the whole time we were on Koh Kood. The name TumKorat literally translates into what they serve: tum in Thai refers to the pounding of things i.e. som tum salad) and Korat is the nick-name for the Isan city of Nakhon Ratchasima!
We ordered half a BBQ chicken, enough sticky rice for two and our all-time favourite salad, a spicy som-tum. It was a delicious sticky feast! We especially loved that when we asked for our som-tum salad to be spicy it actually was!
Koh Kood Mermaid Restaurant & Cafe
(location)
Koh Kood meets Bali in this popular brunch and lunch spot just off Khlong Chao Beach. Serving colourful smoothie bowls, sandwiches and craft coffee, it’s a great spot to head to, if you fancy a more upmarket brunch!
After you’ve eaten, don’t miss taking a look in the small shop that’s attached to the cafe - it was full of pretty dresses, jewellery and other shimmery trinkets. Ellie had to be dragged away from it more than once!
If you’re looking to stay close to Khlong Chao Beach, there’s cute bungalow accommodation available in the teal huts behind the cafe - to book a stay, click here.
KMONLOS
(location)
This small coffee shop was always popular no matter what time of day.
We only stuck to coffee or smoothies here but they always hit the spot. The cafe also serves small plates of fried rice, smoothie bowls and cake, as well as a small shop inside selling clothes and swimwear.
If you’re in need of cash, there’s an ATM next door!
BBQ Stall near the Cowboy Restaurant
(location)
If you’re on a budget then don’t worry, there’s still plenty of cheap and cheerful street food stalls available all over Koh Kood island. Selling everything from grilled meats, noodle soups, deep fried bananas, smoothies and fresh fruit, there’s plenty of things to pick up to go.
If you’re staying in or around the Khlong Chao Beach area, we can highly recommend this BBQ stall. Set up on the roadside every afternoon / early evening, the charcoal grill was full of pork, sausages, chicken and other meaty morsels all stuffed onto sticks. We loved to pick up some moo ping skewers and head to a nearby bar for sunset.
BBQ sticks are also super cheap around 10 to 15 baht a stick depending on meat choice - if you’re a budget backpacker, just look out for the smoking BBQ stalls.
Looking to dabble in Thai street food? Moo ping is a great place to start. ‘Moo’ in Thai means pork and ‘ping’ means grilled. Sweet, savoury and full of that smokey BBQ taste, moo ping pork patties are delicious and a good introduction to some lesser known Thai delights!
Skugga Cafe & Bar
(location)
This super stylish, modern coffee shop sits just over the road from the 4-star Tolani Resort. We popped in for iced coffees and a cool down before we headed north for an exploration.
We ordered two iced americanos and they were exactly what we needed to caffeinate ourselves up for a full day exploring. It’s a lot more expensive than other coffee shops on the island, but for the air-conditioning, delicious coffee and comfy seats it’s worth splashing the extra baht. The cafe also serves breakfast and lunch.
Cicci Thai Cooking School & Bakery
(location)
We stumbled upon the Cicci Thai Cooking School and Bakery when we were heading to Bang Bao Beach.
As we pulled up into the palm covered garden, we really didn’t expect what we found inside.
Stretching the length of the back wall was a massive fridge full to the brim with cheeses of every variety as well as imported hams and smoked meats! For those who are new to the blog, we had been travelling Asia for nearly 3 years at this point, and during these 3 beautiful years, good cheese has been in very short supply! Apart from family and friends we don’t miss a lot of things when we’re on the road, but cheese is definitely up there.
We ordered a roll each with cheese of our choice, ham and salad and it was everything we hoped it would be. The Cicci Thai Cooking School and Bakery is Swedish run and has lots of different sweet and savoury breads for sale, baps, rolls and cakes.
They also offer gluten free options as well as a cooking class. To find out all about the cooking classes and book a slot, head over to their Facebook page here.
Pizza and Pasta
(location)
If you’ve had your fill of Thai cuisine and want something a bit more familiar, Pizza and Pasta will satiate any Western cravings! As you’ve probably guessed by the name of the restaurant, it specialises in burgers… just kidding, it’s all things pasta and pizza as well as serving up other Italian favourites such as bruschetta, tiramisu and calzone. There’s also a small stage set up for live bands to play.
Esan Family Restaurant
(location)
As its name suggests, this small family restaurant specialises in all things Isan. Spicy som tam salad, BBQ grilled meats and sticky rice are on the menu alongside some more adventurous eats such as pork laab, raw shrimp salad and papaya salad with chicken feet!
Don’t be embarrassed to eat with your fingers - it's a meal to get messy with!
The Fisherman Hut
(location)
Set in the heart of the island surrounded by swaying palm trees, the Fisherman Hut is an institution on the island. Serving huge plates of delicious Thai food, cocktails and beer and even live music, it’s a spot you might head to for an early dinner but will end up spending the whole night there.
Don’t miss out on their incredible fishy offerings - both their seafood tom yum and crispy Thai style fish are amazing. The tom yum is super creamy and stuffed full of fresh seafood, and the fish is ultra crispy and topped with plenty of fiery chilli peppers and sweet garlic.
Weeraya Cafe
(location)
Sitting on the ground floor of the Klongmad Hostel in the heart of the Klong Mad Fishing Village, this small harbourside cafe churns out great coffee and cake!
The cafe’s interior fits its location perfectly, with pretty tiles on the floor, a painted wooden ceiling, lights made from thick rope and blue and white striped cushions all contributing to its sailor / coastal ambiance.
The best seats in the house are on the wooden chairs next to the large open window that look right out onto the moored boats and harbour. We ordered two iced lattes which were delicious and sat by their open window directly overlooking the water and boats.
Coffee, cake and chic decor - what more can you ask for!
Goodview Resort and Coffee
(location)
Clinging to the cliffs with fantastic views over the ocean and Khlong Chao Beach, Goodview resort would make a phenomenal spot to watch the sunset from.
Sadly we were a little early for the evening display and so settled for a fresh fruit smoothie and enjoyed the incredible view.
Goodview also serves a full menu of Thai favourites, coffee and beer. You can also stay in one of the cliff-side bungalows - the view from your room would be amazing! Click here to book a stay.
We think Goodview is well named…
Your Holiday Cafe
(location)
Sitting on the junction with Khlong Hin beach, this is a great spot if you’re heading to the south of the island to explore. This small, modern, air-conditioned coffee shop served up some of the best coffee we drank on the island, our go to order was always two iced lattes which were super smooth, yet full of that rich, coffee taste - plus the barista is super lovely and eager to help with any questions about Koh Kood!
Our Favourite Bars on Koh Kood - Best Spots for a Sundowner Beer / Late Night Drink
As sunset hits, it’s almost compulsory on any Thai island to find a good spot for a sundowner beer or cocktail, luckily you’re in no short supply on Koh Kood.
We decided to stay local and watched the sunset from Khlong Chao Beach. Luckily for us we found the perfect bar for cheap beer and front row seats to watch the sun go down…
View Point Cafe
(location)
This was by far the best spot we found to watch the sunset. The View Point Cafe has an incredible view, thanks to it being built directly on top of the water right next to where the mangrove canal meets with the sea at Khlong Chao Beach.
The cafe serves cheap beer, cocktails, coffee and smoothies alongside a small menu of Thai favourites - for those who are really fussy there is a carbonara on the menu!
When we weren’t kayaking around at sunset (see above) we’d almost certainly be in this bar. To get the best seats at the huge open window at the front of the bar, get there early. It can get very busy at sunset!
Sunset Bar
(location)
Just next door to the View Point Cafe is the aptly named Sunset Bar. This modern, stylish bar had more of a view of the mangroves than the ocean, but if you’re lucky, there’s a perfect spot right at the waters edge which gives a great view of the sunset over Khlong Chao Beach.
The bar is a lot more modern than its neighbour and the prices do reflect this. Beers start at 100 baht for a small bottle and cocktails at 250 baht.
The sunsets at Khlong Chao are phenomenal - even if you’re not staying on the beach, make sure you spend at least one sunset there!
Bartist
(location)
The Bartist Bar is your typical Thai island bar you hope to find on any island break. Looking like an inside out bar, Bartist is stuffed full of wooden benches, tables and hammocks all vying for space with encroaching green plants.
We ended up at the Bartist most nights after dining at Koh Kood’s Night Market and always had a great night. Cheap beer, good music, board games and chilled vibes - it was a great place to head to for a couple of late night drinks!
Just don’t forget to give Brownie the dog lots of cuddles on your way out!
Where to Stay on Koh Kood? Accommodation on the Island
Our Accommodation - Baan Klong Jao Homestay
We stayed at the fantastic Baan Klong Jao Homestay (location), a short walk away from Khlong Chao Beach.
Baan Klong Jao offers small bungalows and family rooms, all set in amongst their pretty garden. We were lucky and managed to get their very last room at the height of the peak season - if you’re travelling to the island just before Christmas and during the dry season, definitely book your accommodation early! If we had left our booking any later we wouldn’t have had a bed.
We stayed in one of their family rooms, sitting on stilts above the mangroves. Our room was massive and super comfy. We had a huge double bed, bunk beds, a big private en-suite bathroom with a hot shower. The room also had a small veranda, plenty of space to unpack and air-conditioning - essential to escape from the hot Thai sun.
The price of the room also included an excellent buffet style breakfast in their restaurant overlooking the estuary and mangroves. Every morning we would pile high our plates with seafood congee, Thai curries and noodles - for a resort breakfast there was so much choice! If you’re more of a traditional kind of breakfast person, they also serve fresh fruit, yogurts, eggs, pastries and more!
The homestay also offered free kayaks to use as well as motorbike / scooter rental. The staff were super helpful, they sorted our bike rental, gave us advice on the island and helped in arranging our speedboat tickets to Koh Mak at the end of our stay. Their English wasn’t fluent and our Thai even worse, but we never had a problem being understood or understanding them.
To book a stay at Baan Klong Jao - we cannot recommend it enough - click here!
P.S. Did we mention they had some very hot, very fluffy resident huskies!
Hostels and Guesthouses - Cheap, Budget Backpacker Accommodation on Koh Kood
If you’re a backpacker and looking for a cheap bed for the night, don’t fret, there’s plenty of options for a budget friendly stay on Koh Kood.
Guesthouses are plentiful and there are even a couple of hostels - you can even camp the night in a tent if you’re on a really tight budget!
For dorm rooms check out BB Dorm Hostel or for a private room including breakfast, check out a stay at The Little White Bird Traveller Hostel.
Check out the full list of cheap stays here.
Hotels and Resorts - Luxury Stays on Koh Kood
If you’re not on a backpacking budget like we were, Koh Kood has no shortage of luxury hotels and resorts to relax in. From the upmarket Solani Kiri Hotel in the north of the island, the Beach Natural Resort in the middle of the island, to the Hideout Hotel in the south. Whatever your style of luxury, there’ll be a hotel for you.
We were staying on the stunning Khlong Chao Beach and looked longingly at the Tinkerbell Resort beachfront villas - some even had their own pool! If you are after a bit of TLC on your island break, this resort looked like it could definitely provide! Also next door is the High Season Pool Villa Resort that had beachfront access and a humongous swimming pool.
To take a look at every hotel and resort on offer on Koh Kood, use our handy map below.
If you’re planning on staying on Koh during the dry season (November to February) at the peak of the tourist season, make sure to book your accommodation well in advance. We travelled to the island just before Christmas and almost every hotel, guesthouse and hostel was sold out.
There is plenty of beachfront accommodation to choose from on Koh Kood!
Koh Kood Essential Information
Where is Koh Kood?
The island of Koh Kood sits in the Gulf of Thailand, just off the Southern province of Trat - you can find it on a map here.
Koh Kood is part of the Koh Chang archipelago, a set of picturesque islands sitting in the Mu Ko Chang National Park which include the Thai islands of Koh Chang, Koh Mak and Koh Wai. The islands are very close to the “Narrowest Part of Thailand” in south eastern Trat and are located nearby to the border with Cambodia.
Koh Kood can also be named as Ko Kut.
The Best Time to Visit Koh Kood - Seasons on the Island
Dry Season
The dry season in Koh Kood runs from November to April. During these months you can expect optimal beach weather - think sunny skies, warm sea and minimal rainfall. The dry season is also the peak time for tourists, so the island will be busy with other travellers and tourists. If you’re planning a trip during the high season, make sure to book accommodation and transfers well in advance - you don’t want to miss out on your beachfront stay!
During the dry season, the beaches of Koh Kood are stunning!
Wet Season
Koh Kood’s low season falls during the wet season which runs from May to October. During these months, the weather can get very wet, the sea choppy and some restaurants / attractions / accommodation may be closed.
Don’t let this put you off though. We have travelled to the islands of Koh Phangan, Koh Phayam and Koh Yao Yai during the wet seasons and had a fantastic time on all three. We did have rainy days, but the sea was always warm and it never rained for the whole day - plus it was super quiet, we often would have whole beaches to ourselves! Just be aware that things may be closed and some activities may not be available.
Getting Around the Island
Getting To and From Ao Salad Pier
Luckily you won’t be stranded when you arrive at Ao Salad Pier. Almost all ferry and speedboat tickets will include a transfer to your accommodation when you arrive and a transfer back to the pier when you leave the island.
As soon as we got off the speedboat we were asked where we were staying before being directed to a songthaew who then dropped us right off at our accommodation.
Songthaews / Shared taxis
If you cannot ride a motorbike or scooter, you’ll need to hire a songthaew driver to get you around the island. Songthaews on Koh Kood come in the form of flat bed pick-up trucks with bench seating added to the back.
You can hire a songthaew driver for individual journeys or to take you somewhere, wait for you while you explore / lounge / swim and then drive you back to your accommodation. You can even hire them for a full day of sightseeing in a private tour of the island. The songthaews are not the cheapest transport option with prices starting at 500 baht per journey and rising rapidly if you need the driver to wait for you / need a return journey.
To book a songthaew driver, speak with your accommodation - just remember to negotiate any prices. If there are a lot of people, you may be able to split the cost!
This is definitely not the budget or backpacker friendly option, but if you’re on holiday with your family or can’t ride a scooter it may be worth your while.
The roads are very quiet on Koh Kood!
Motorbike and Scooter Rental on Koh Kood
The easiest, cheapest and most fun way to explore the island of Koh Kood is by renting a motorbike or scooter. We absolutely love riding around a Thai island on the back of a bike especially on Koh Kood where it's so quiet, you’ll often have long stretches of the road all to yourself. There’s something special about the warm wind in your face as you pass by long stretches of coastline.
To rent a motorbike or scooter, just speak to your accommodation or search on Google for a “motorbike rental” - there are plenty all over the island.
We rented a 125cc scooter from our accommodation for 250 baht per day.
If you’re renting a bike / scooter all the usual warnings apply. Don’t ride without a helmet and don’t do anything you’re not comfortable with. If you have a pillion passenger, there’s no shame asking them to walk if you’re not comfortable on some of the off-road sections on the island!
All the beaches on Koh Kood will have somewhere to park your scooter!
ATMs, 7-11s, Pharmacies and Petrol Stations
Koh Kood is relatively undeveloped compared to its larger neighbour Koh Chang. It has many resorts, high-end hotels and restaurants, but the interior of the island still remains relatively untouched. As you drive across the island, you’ll pass by large swathes of jungle untouched by mass tourism. It’s a Thai island still with its own identity!
ATMS on the Island
There are four ATMs dotted across the island. Two machines in Khlong Chao Beach area and two in the main town of Koh Kut.
We’d recommend withdrawing the majority of your baht before you get to Koh Kood, you never know when island ATMS will run out - if you’re planning to eat local, cash is king on the island!
7-Eleven and Convenience Stores
At the moment Koh Kood is one of only a few islands in Thailand that remains 7-Eleven free, however there are still plenty of local convenience stores and mini-marts dotted all over the island and lots are open until late. These small stores sell everything from snacks to beach toys, toiletries to bottles of beer, whatever you need you’re bound to find it somewhere on the island.
If you can’t live without your 7-11 treats, make sure to bring whatever you need with you to Koh Kood!
Petrol Stations
There are self-service petrol stands dotted all over the island. Just look for the red tanks of petrol. They are all self-serve. Just put your baht into the machine and press go.
We paid between 80 to 100 baht to fill up our 125cc scooter.
Koh Kood is still relatively undeveloped, but that’s all part of its charm!
Pharmacies and Hospitals on Koh Kood
Hopefully you won’t need to encounter either of the above on any trip to Koh Kood, but if you do need medical assistance, there is help available on the island. At the moment, there are three pharmacies located in the main town of Ko Kut, near Khlong Chao Beach and at the junction to Ao Phrao Beach. All three open from 9 AM in the morning and stay open until late in the evening - check each store for specific opening times.
The pharmacies will stock all the standard medication sold worldwide, but if you’re after something more specific they may not have it - you are in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand after all!
For medical emergencies, head to Ko Kut Hospital in the heart of the island. This is the only hospital on Koh Kood island.
How to Get to Koh Kood?
Travelling from Bangkok to Koh Kood
Bangkok is around a 5 to 6 hour drive away from Laem Sok Pier. From Laem Sok pier it’s a 1 hour speedboat ride across the sea to Ao Salad Pier on Koh Kood.
You can easily book a combined bus and ferry ticket either from Khao San Road in the heart of Bangkok or from Suvarnabhumi Airport all the way to Koh Kood.
Trat City to Koh Kood
Trat is the closest city to Koh Kood on Thailand’s mainland. To reach Trat from Bangkok, you can take a bus from Mochit or Ekkamai bus stations. The journey will take you between 5 and 6 hours depending on traffic.
If you shudder at the thought of being stuck on a bus, then you can fly directly to Trat from Bangkok. Obviously this is the more expensive option, but if money’s no object it will save you a lot of time.
To check out all your options on getting to Trat from Bangkok, click here.
From Trat you’ll need to book a transfer to Laem Sok pier (located here) where the Boonsiri speedboats depart from.
There’s plenty of places to stay in Trat and it’s definitely worth a stop if you have the time as it’s a charming city full of great food, pretty temples and a lively weekend market. We stayed at the fantastic Pano Solar Guest House right in the heart of the Old Town and booked our transfer to the pier from the friendly owner.
Click here to book your speedboat tickets from Laem Sok pier to Koh Kood.
The ferry journey from the Laem Sok pier to Ao Salad pier will take around 1 hour.
Getting from Koh Chang / Koh Mak to Koh Kood
For those planning an island-hopping extravaganza around the Koh Chang archipelago, it’s super easy to get around with ferries and speedboats serving all three islands daily.
We actually travelled from Trat to Koh Chang, Koh Chang to Koh Kood and then Koh Kood to Koh Mak, all using the ferries and speedboats.
Koh Chang to Koh Kood
From Koh Chang to Koh Kood it’s a 1 hour and half ferry ride from Bang Bao Pier on Koh Chang to Ao Salad Pier on Koh Kood.
Koh Mak to Koh Kood
From Koh Mak to Koh Kood its a short 30 minute hop with the Boonsiri high speed ferry service from Ao Nid Pier on Koh Mak to Ao Salad Pier on Koh Kood.
If you’re planning to travel to the islands during the peak season (November to February) we’d recommend booking your transfers as soon as possible. It can get very busy on the islands and you don’t want to get stranded anywhere!
Final Thoughts on Koh Kood
Koh Kood, Koh Chang or Koh Mak - Which Island To Choose?
It’s impossible to answer this - there really is no right answer!
All three are completely different and all are fantastic. We have been lucky enough to island-hop our way across all three and had an absolutely amazing time. Despite being so close to each other, all three islands are unique in looks, beaches and feel, yet they’re all so easy to get between with ferries and speedboats criss-crossing between all three.
To help make your decision on which island to visit, check out our complete guides to Koh Mak and Koh Chang below:
Is Koh Kood Worth A Trip?
Yes, definitely 100% yes - if we haven’t convinced you after this, we need to up our writing game!
The island is absolutely stunning. It’s hard to describe just how pretty Koh Kood is without sounding too cliche! There are only so many words we can use to describe the beautiful white sand beaches and the vibrant turquoise sea without repeating ourselves. Koh Kood feels like a genuine tropical paradise!
Koh Kood is an absolute must. The island is a little more resort-y than some other Thai islands, but it never stopped us from accessing any of the beaches. We were travelling in the peak of the dry season and we never struggled with finding our own private spot on the beaches to relax on, Koh Kood was not overcrowded.
For now, the island still feels like a hidden gem. We hate to use that phrase, but it does feel like an island that hasn’t succumbed to mass tourism like so many other tropical islands around the world. Yes there are resorts but they’re not the sprawling gargantuan ones you may find blocking your way elsewhere in the world.
At the moment, the island does feel secluded and untouched. Koh Kood is the kind of paradise island you dream of finding on your travels. It’s an island that’s got a little bit of everything and is perfect for a 2 day, 3 day, week long or even longer break!
Our only advice is to come here sooner rather than later. Koh Kood won’t stay an undiscovered jewel for long, it’s just far too pretty for that. Bigger resorts will come, 7-Eleven will open and suddenly the island will feel less special, less of an adventure.
Our advice is to get to Koh Kood now - you won’t regret it!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The little Thai island of Koh Mak is an underappreciated jewel in the Gulf of Thailand. With fantastic, old-school, Thai island vibes and incredible people, this little island has (so far) avoided the modernisation and mass tourism of other beach destinations. Read our guide to Koh Mak and find out, what to do, where to stay, what to eat and most importantly - why you should go!