The Ultimate Guide To Koh Yao Yai - A Thai Island Without The Crowds
Koh Yao Yai is stunning. A large island full of postcard perfect beaches, sleepy villages and a beautiful mangrove laced coastline. Sitting right in the middle of the Andaman Sea and surrounded by the more popular Thai tourist destinations of Phuket, Ao Nang, Railay and Koh Phi Phi the lesser known island of Koh Yao Yai has somehow managed to escape the throngs of mass tourism seen in other parts of Southern Thailand.
The island retains its own local charm, despite being within arms reach of Thailand’s most popular tourist spots. It’s an island that’s very rural. Full of rubber plantations, small villages and fishing harbours, Koh Yao Yai has managed to keep its own identity.
If you’re looking to leave behind the crowds of nearby Phuket and indulge in some real Thai island life, Koh Yao Yai may be the island for you. Whether you’re looking for high-end, luxury resorts or good-value budget accommodation there is plenty on offer.
We spent a wonderful week exploring the length and breadth of the island, soaking up its easy-going vibes, relaxing on the beaches and scootering around the quiet roads.
If you’re looking for a chilled out, super laid back beach break then Koh Yao Yai is the Thai island for you. Read on to find out all you need to know about visiting this idyllic Andaman island!
In This Koh Yao Yai Travel Guide:
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Koh Yao Yai Island
Where is Koh Yao Yai?
The island of Koh Yao Yai is located in Southern Thailand approximately 800 KM away from the Thai capital of Bangkok. You can find the island on a map here.
Koh Yao Yai sits in the middle of the Andaman Sea surrounded by Phuket island to the West, the island of Koh Yao Noi and the mainland of Phang Nga to the north and the beaches of Krabi to the east.
Koh Yao Yai makes up one half of the Koh Yao archipelago. The name Koh Yao Yai translates to “Big Long Island” with it’s neighbouring island, Koh Yao Noi meaning “Small Long Island”.
“Yai” and “Noi” are really useful terms in your Thai vocabulary. You can order large plates with “Yai”, small plates with “Noi” and a little bit with “Nip Noi”!
The closest airports to Koh Yao Yai are Phuket International Airport (HKT) and Krabi International Airport. From both airports you’ll need to arrange a taxi to take you onto the nearest pier to catch the speedboat / ferry onto Koh Yao Yai.
To book flights to Thailand, we’d recommend using Skyscanner to find the best deals. Just enter your dates you are planning to travel in the search form below.
How to Get to Koh Yao Yai
From Phuket
Getting from Phuket to Koh Yao Yai is extremely easy with speedboats and ferries departing from Bang Rong Pier (located here) in northeast Phuket multiple times everyday.
When you arrive at Bang Rong Pier in Phuket you’ll need to pay a 10 baht fee per person to enter the pier area. From there just head to the ticket counter and book your longtail or speedboat tickets.
Tickets cost 400 baht per person to get to Koh Yao Yai (this is the same price as it is to get to Koh Yao Noi) and boats depart regularly from 08:30 AM in the morning until 17:00 PM. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to wait in until the boat is ready to go.
All boats will arrive at Chong Lard Pier on Koh Yao Yai located in the north of the island. You can find the pier on a map here.
To get to Phuket from Bangkok you can either catch a quick internal flight south (around 1h 30mins flight time) or hop on to a much longer bus (12 to 14 hour journey). To book your Bangkok to Phuket flight or bus tickets, click here.
We took the boat from Bang Rong Pier and bought the tickets on the day, but if you’re travelling in peak season and want to have everything booked in advance, we’d recommend booking your tickets with 12Go.
Book your Phuket to Koh Yao Yai speedboat tickets here.
From Krabi / Ao Nang
If you’re staying in Ao Nang or coming directly from Krabi International Airport, speed boats and ferries depart from Nopparat Thara Pier (located here) everyday at 12 noon, 2 PM and 4 PM. The journey from Nopparat Thara Pier will take around 40 minutes and will drop you off at Chong Lard Pier on Koh Yao Yai. Tickets will cost 650 baht per person.
To book your boat tickets from Krabi to Koh Yao Yai in advance, click here.
If you’re staying in Krabi Town and need to get to Nopparat Thara Pier we’d recommend jumping in one of the red songthaews. You can just hail one down from the street or head to the Songthaew station in town located here. Journeys will cost 50 baht per person. Just let the driver know where you want to go, hop in the back and press the buzzer when you get to the pier. When you get off just remember to pay the driver!
Ferries and speedboats also depart from Ao Thalane Pier (located here) set a little north of Ao Nang. Speedboat departures are at 9.30 AM and 4 PM and with a longtail boat departing at 1 PM.
If you’re coming from Bangkok to Krabi, you can either catch an internal flight which will take around an hour and a half or you can take a much longer bus journey (around 14 hours). To book your Bangkok to Krabi flight or bus tickets, click here.
From Phang Nga
If you’re an intrepid explorer and are staying in the small (but beautiful) Thai town of Phang Nga to the north of the bay, there is one boat that you can hop on to reach Koh Yao Yai. The boat departs everyday at 1 PM from this pier (located here) set a short distance outside of town.
As there is only one boat a day leaving it does mean that if the weather isn’t on your side, or the boat breaks down you’re going to be stuck. Unfortunately this happened to us. We arrived at Phang Nga bus station and were told the boat wasn’t running that day as it was being repaired. We had two choices; one to stay in Phang Nga and hope the boat would be up and running the next day, or head to either Krabi or Phuket and catch the speedboats from there. We were quoted 1400 baht for a songthaew driver to take us from Phang Nga bus station to the pier in Phuket or 1800 baht to get to Krabi. We opted for the cheaper, Phuket option and made it to Koh Yao Yai by mid-afternoon.
There is very little information online about boat departures from Phang Nga and you cannot book your tickets online, so if you’re on holiday we’d recommend you book your boat tickets from Phuket or Krabi.
The pier in Phang Nga is also where you can charter a boat to take you to visit the famous “James Bond” island that sits in the middle of Phang Nga Bay. You can also do this tour from Phuket. We took a full day tourand had a great time exploring the island, having lunch on the floating village of Koh Panyee and visiting some caves. To book a tour in advance, check out Get Your Guide here.
From Koh Yao Noi
If you’re staying on neighbouring Koh Yao Noi you can easily arrange a long tail boat to take you over to Koh Yao Yai. Boats run all day and it should cost you around 100 baht per person per crossing.
To arrange a boat just head to Manoh Pier (located here).
What to Do on the Island
Now you’ve made it to paradise, what is there to do on Koh Yao Yai!
Relax on the Beaches
Koh Yao Yai is spoiled with a plethora of beaches, stretching all the way from the north to the southern tip of the island. If you’re planning a trip to the island, the beaches are almost certainly where you’re going to be spending the majority of your time.
Koh Yao Yai is a large island and it takes around 40 minutes to drive from Chong Lard Pier in the north, to Ao Sai Beach in the south. When you’re booking your accommodation make sure you take this into account. If you’re after a super relaxing holiday, one where you don’t need to leave the resort, we’d recommend searching for hotels and resorts on the beaches of Loh Pared and Ao Hin Kong. Both these beaches are absolutely stunning and the area around both beaches are full of hotels, resorts and restaurants.
We visited Koh Yao Yai at the start of the rainy season and had every beach to ourselves, but even in the peak season we can’t imagine the beaches ever getting too overrun!
Here’s the best beaches to explore on Koh Yao Yai:
Laem Had Beach
(location)
A short 5 minute drive or 25 minute walk from the main town nearest to Chong Larn Pier is a perfect example of a tropical Thai beach. Set on a peninsula, Laem Had Beach is made up of bright white sand, turquoise water and swaying palm trees. It’s a massive beach with its sands stretching away for miles into the distance - it’s an absolute stunner!
The beach is made up of two halves with a sand bank dividing the middle of the two. If you time your visit at low tide, you can walk right out into the Andaman Sea along the curving sand bank.
The right hand side of the peninsula (looking towards the sea) is the part of the beach where you’ll want to set down your towel. To the left, is a more “working” beach, with lots of fishing boats moored up.
If you’re planning a day on this beach there’s not a lot of shade once you’re on the sand so make sure you lather yourself in suncream!
The nearest cafe to the beach is Laleuca Café & Eatery @Laem Had (more on this later) which is a perfect stop to fuel up before a day of swimming and lounging.
To reach the beach, just drive until the road runs out and park in the abandoned resort's car park.
The sandbank literally takes you into the middle of the Andaman Sea!
Our recommendation is to get to this beach sooner rather than later. It looks as though the beach once belonged to a resort that has since been abandoned. At the moment, you can just park up and head through the grounds of the old resort to the beach, but there are lots of signs all around saying the land is for sale. It would be a real shame if this beach was put behind the gates of a fancy high-end resort!
Son Bay Beach
(location)
Son Bay Beach was possibly our favourite beach on the whole island and was completely different to all the other beaches we visited.
An absolutely massive bay of golden sand curves away on either side and is ringed by low-lying palm and jungle filled hills. The beach is huge. We visited both at high and low tide and the difference was phenomenal. At low tide, the sand stretches out for miles and miles and was filled with armies of crabs burrowing into the wet sand. At high tide the beach looks completely different with just a small slither of sand and the gentle waves literally licking the shoreline.
Son Bay at low tide is massive!
At high tide the beach completely disappears!
There is a small beach shack offering sun loungers and selling soft drinks, beer and small plates of food. We enjoyed a can of sprite in the shade and just lapped up the vibes. The view from this beach is stunning! From the shoreline, you can follow the forest filled western coast of the island as it leads down towards the hilly headland. At the end of this headland sits the modern bungalows and infinity pools of the Santhiya Resort and Spa - if you’re looking to treat yourself to a room with a view, these bungalows look like they’d be the one!
Both times we visited this beach we had the whole beach to ourselves, but even in the middle of the high season, we can’t imagine you’d struggle with getting a spot on the sand.
If you’re heading here on a scooter, parking is easy. Just drive until the road runs out and park on the side of the road underneath the trees. If you’re staying to the south of the island, there is a small road that bypasses the main road (the road that takes you back to Chong Lard Pier) and spits you out in the middle of the island. We had a look at the road but decided against it. When we visited the road was awful. It was covered in a thick layer of mud and sand and was full of deep crevices. If you’re not confident off-roading on a bike, we’d recommend sticking to the main road, taking the safer, longer route back.
Ao Hin Kong Beach
(location)
Ao Hin Kong Beach is literally a Thai island paradise!
After a week of beach hopping around the island we didn’t think the beaches could be topped, but Ao Hin Kong was a massive, amazing surprise.
When you think of a Thai beach you need the following:
Perfect sand ☑️
Clear turquoise ocean ☑️
Colourful longtail boats ☑️
Stunning limestone islands ☑️
Ao Hin Kong ticks all the boxes on what you imagine a Thai beach to look like! It’s literally a real-life postcard of what you expect to find on a Southern Thai beach.
We visited the beach at low tide and all around the sand arched away to gentle lapping waves. On the shoreline, huge wooden fishing vessels and longtail boats draped in colourful offerings sat moored on the wet sand whilst all around massive, red shelled crabs with big white pincers fought and tumbled with other crabs.
The beach is divided down the middle by Hin Kong Pier. At the end of the pier, you get a magnificent view out over the limestone and tree filled island of Ko Rang Nok that rises up out of the turquoise ocean. Behind this, layer upon layer of grey, blue limestone jagged karsts fade away to the distance.
The beach is ringed by lots of fancy looking resorts including the Anantara Resort and Spa, the Koh Yao Yai Village Resort and the Baan Taranya Resort.
If you’re after a bite to eat, then there's the Pier Yao Yai Restaurant that has brilliant views from its dining room out over the sand. We would love to have treated ourselves to a meal here, but we had already eaten lunch! If you’re on a budget, there’s also the very well-reviewed Rung Tawan Restaurant just next door.
To reach the beach, just follow the signs from the main road and drive until you reach the end of the road. There’s roadside parking just next to the pier.
Loh Pared Beach
(location)
Loh Pared Beach is up there as one of the prettiest beaches on the island. A huge curving bay full of golden sand, gentle lapping waves and clear turquoise ocean. The beach is the most built up of all the beaches on Koh Yao Yai and is where we’d say the main ‘tourist hub’ of the island is.
On one side of the sand you have the 4-star Blue Bay Resort Hotel and on the other, the 5-star Santhiya Koh Yao Yai Resort & Spa. Stretching between these two hotels are plenty of other resorts and restaurants. If you’re staying in the Santhiya Koh Yao Yai Resort you have your very own private pier to arrive on - how swanky!
Even though the beach is one of the most built up on the island, it’s nothing like the beaches on neighbouring Phuket! The beach is massive and very pretty, there’s easily enough sand to find your own space to throw down your towel.
There are a couple of beach bars dotted along the shoreline, varying in style. You’ve got our favourite kind of beach bar, the Gypsy Bar (location) - think wooden beach shack, Bob Marley on repeat and flag bunting. Then you have the beach club style - comfy chairs, cocktails, and a more upmarket style - Yao Yai Beach Club (location).
If you’re looking for a sunset spot for a cheeky drink, this beach would be a fantastic choice. The beach faces West overlooking the mountains and islands of Phuket.
Be careful in the wet season as the water can get quite choppy here especially after heavy rain. We had an afternoon swim and the waves knocked off John’s ring he made in the mountains of Dharamshala.
Behind the beach the whole area is full of hotels, restaurants, ATMs and tour agencies. If you want a coffee we can recommend checking out Demeter Coffee (more on this later).
If you’re not staying in Loh Pared and coming to the beach by scooter there are plenty of car park spaces lining the road leading to the beach.
Lo Chak Beach
(location)
Another big beach that stretches out for miles along Yai’s western coastline. At one end of the sands, the long concrete Loh Jak pier stretches out into the clear water and at the other end of the beach, thick jungle sits adjacent to the sand. From the shore you get stunning views out over the small island of Khai Nai and behind this, the rolling hills of Phuket.
When we visited we had the whole beach to ourselves. We took a walk across the sand and enjoyed this quiet slice of paradise. At the end of the beach there’s a sign asking people to be respectful as there is a cemetery hiding in the jungle. We couldn’t see any signs of it but there were lots of coral decorations hanging from trees and waving serenely in the sea breeze!
Close to the pier there were a couple of closed up bars, restaurants and beachside massage parlours. It looked as though they would be open in the high season but were closed when we visited at the start of the rainy season.
If you’re into jet skiing this seemed to be the beach you could hire them from. When we were visiting they were refilling them with a very long petrol hose!
There’s plenty of parking at this beach, with a big car park just next door to the pier. On the approach there are a couple of restaurants / shops to buy food and drink from.
Ao Muong Beach
(location)
Set down a small sand and dirt track just off the main road sits Ao Muong Beach. This beach felt like a secret, a real hidden cove.
We parked up our scooters and headed straight to the shoreline to find a completely abandoned and empty beach! The beach is very different to the sandy beaches to the north. The cove is completely surrounded by dense jungle and swinging palm trees. On the beach itself, there is a thin slither of white sand, followed by a pebble and rock shelf where the sea and sand meet. Despite being quite rough the day we visited, the sea was still vibrant blue and super clear!
From the shore you can see the island of Khai Nai and the blue outline of Phuket on the horizon. At the far end of the beach there was a huge curtain of crab / lobster pots stacked up ready to be used by the local fishermen.
There is a small stall that was closed when we were there, but still had the menu / signs outside. There were also lots of empty coconut shells discarded to the side which indicated that it had definitely been open recently.
If you’re coming by scooter just be careful on the small track between the main road and the beach. You’ll only be driving on it for about a minute but it is very sandy! Just park up under the trees next to the small beach shack.
Ao Sai Beach
(location)
Sitting at the very southern tip of the island, Ao Sai Beach became our go to for an early afternoon swim.
The drive alone to the beach was one of our highlights. As we were staying in the north, we had a long drive through the middle of the island, before turning off to a small road that twisted and turned through rubber plantations and small villages. The junction for the beach is down a signposted track just before the small fishing village of Phru Nhai.
Ao Sai Beach is completely different from all the other beaches on Koh Yao Yai. Big boulders and rock pools full of crabs and small fish cling to the shoreline. The sand on the beach is bright white and is made up of shattered coral and shell fragments. From the shore you can see the jagged peaks of Krabi, Railay and Phi Phi disappearing into the horizon.
There is a man sitting on a hammock at the top of the steps who sells cold drinks and snacks and on the beach itself, there is a small beach bar. If you’re on the sands you’ll almost certainly run into the owner as he’s very eager to sell his bar with the promises of having ice cold beer and delicious snacks!
Ao Sai is perfect for an afternoon on the beach. There’s plenty of shade and lots of secluded nooks amongst the rocks to set up base.
If you’re travelling in the wet season just be careful under foot. The rough seas and wet weather had dragged up some glass in the rock pools.
After the beach, we’d recommend having a quick drive through the small fishing village of Phru Nhai to the fishing pier. Ellie loves fishing boats and there were plenty moored up to admire. We loved the huge traditional wooden boats, the stilted fisherman’s houses lining the shore and the pink and gold mosque sitting underneath green palms. It’s a very pretty village!
It looks as though there is a restaurant above the harbour but it wasn’t open when we visited and we couldn’t find any information about it online. Let us know in the comments if you do go. The view from the restaurant would be incredible and the fish would be super fresh as it would literally be unloaded just below!
Hire Kayaks and Explore the Mangroves
The shoreline all around Koh Yao Yai is filled with thick mangrove forests that are perfect for an afternoon of kayaking and wildlife spotting!
We would have loved to have done a day trip through the mangroves but only found out about it on our last day and when we headed there we got stuck in a torrential downpour. Not fancying a soggy paddle we turned around, but it’s definitely on our “next time” list.
There are plenty of companies that offer kayaking tours, from morning or afternoon trips to a full day of kayaking. There is also the option to hire your own kayaks and explore the coastline at your leisure!
If you’re on Koh Yao Yai we’d recommend checking out Yamee Village Kayaking located just up the road from Son Bay Beach (here).
If you’d prefer to book your kayaking trip in advance, why not check out this mangrove tour on Get Your Guide here.
We were gutted that we didn't manage to do this. Just from driving our scooters around the island we saw so much wildlife from small robin-like birds with bright orange breasts to vibrant blue kingfishers. We can imagine the mangroves would be full of birds, reptiles and other critters!
Climb a Viewpoint
If you can drag yourself away from relaxing on the beach, then there are two viewpoints on the island to stretch your legs, both with very different views.
The first viewpoint is located just off the main road heading towards the south of the island. There is no Google listing but it’s located here. We drove past this viewpoint everyday and never saw anyone else visit it.
To climb it, you need to pay 60 baht per person. There’s an honesty box for you to put the money in just by the gate and a bell to ring if you need change. There are 5 viewpoints to climb up to. The walk up is very easy, just follow a steep set of concrete steps that wind up into the garden and jungle above.
Each of the 5 viewpoints gave a slightly different perspective out over the coastline of Koh Yao Yai and across the Andaman Sea. We visited late afternoon and the sun was casting a gorgeous golden light over the shoreline. It was absolutely stunning. From high up, you can really appreciate how beautiful Koh Yao Yai is!
There’s also a small circular jungle trek. If you plan on walking this trail, make sure you top up on insect repellent!
You won’t need long at this viewpoint but it was absolutely worth the small entrance fee. It looks as though in high season they sell snacks and soft drinks.
The second viewpoint is located to the north of the island, a short drive from Chong Lard Pier, found here. We didn’t make it to this viewpoint as the afternoon we headed there we got stuck in a torrential storm and didn’t fancy a wet trek! Let us know in the comments what the view is like. There is also a very well-reviewed restaurant on-site.
Take a Batik Making Class
(location)
Sitting just above Klong Hia Pier, Koh Yao Yai’s larger pier (used for freight and cars) is Batik de Kohyao.
This local family offers tourists the chance to try their hand at traditional batik workshops and/or painting classes. We only stumbled upon this on our last day on the island and were gutted we didn’t find this sooner as we would love to have taken a pretty souvenir home with us! Batik de Kohyao also has a small gift shop with batik clothes, trinkets and more for sale.
The village of Klong Hia is also home to a few restaurants. We had our eye on this one (located here) but as we pulled up the owner was pulling the shutters down. The boxed up pad kra pao’s on the counter looked amazing!
You could easily pair a batik making class and lunch in the village with a trip to the nearby Son Bay Beach.
Get Active With A Muay Thai Training Session
(location)
If you’re looking for an active island break, why not sign yourself up to a single, week or month long Muay Thai training session with the Pirates Andaman Muai Thai Gym. Every time we passed the gym, it was full of people kicking, jumping and throwing punches! To find out more, head to their website here.
There is no accommodation available on-site but if you’re after a cheap bed, take a look at booking a stay with Backpack Hostel Koh Yao Yai.
Snorkelling and Day Trips to the Hong Islands
The nearby Hong Island archipelago is home to some of the world’s prettiest islands. Enormous jagged, jungle covered limestone karsts rise up out of the bright, clear turquoise water. If you’ve seen the film “The Beach” then you can picture what they look like!
You can easily book a day trip out to the islands from Koh Yao Yai. We were offered a private longtail boat tour to visit a few of the Hong Islands and go snorkelling for 3500 baht. This trip would be a full day out and would include pick up and drop off at the pier, lunch and snorkelling equipment. As the weather wasn’t on our side, the sea choppy and having already done a very similar trip on neighbouring Koh Yao Noi (read more about it here) we decided to save the pennies.
If you’re on holiday in Koh Yao Yai we really cannot recommend a snorkelling trip enough. We’ve been lucky enough to go snorkelling in the Andaman Sea a few times during our visits to Southern Thailand and it’s been some of the best snorkelling we’ve ever done. You’ll spot bright orange clown fish, vibrant coral reefs and spikey black sea anemones!
To book a snorkelling trip in advance, why not check this day trip out on Get Your Guide which includes lunch. Or if you’d prefer a longer trip to the Hong Islands, sunset on a private island and even a chance to see bio-luminescent plankton, why not have a look at this snorkelling trip.
If you’re looking to go snorkelling trip make sure you keep an eye out on the weather. As we’ve mentioned above, the weather wasn’t on our side on our trip to Yai. We had torrential downpours most afternoons and the sea was very rough. If there’s been rain in the last couple of days it can mean that visibility under the waves is poor. If you’re planning a snorkelling trip, check the weather before you book!
Spend the Day on Neighbouring Koh Yao Noi Island
Koh Yao Yai is just one half of the Koh Yao island archipelago and the neighbouring, smaller island of Koh Yao Noi sits just over the water. The islands are so close to each other you can see Koh Yao Noi’s Manoh Pier jutting out into the sea from Chong Larn Pier!
Koh Yao Noi is a lot smaller than Yai but is full of pretty beaches, great seafood restaurants and amazing sunset spots. The island is also home to lots of hornbills so keep your eyes peeled in the trees! Despite it’s small size, Koh Yao Noi is actually the more popular choice for travellers and is definitely more tourism focussed than Koh Yao Yai.
We spent a week on the island and have a full guide on everything there is to see, do and eat. Check it out here:
To reach Koh Yao Noi just head to Chong Larn Pier and jump on a longtail boat. Boats depart all day and should cost around 100 baht per person per journey.
At Koh Yao Noi’s Manoh Pier there are plenty of places to rent a bike from.
Where to Eat and Drink on Koh Yao Yai
Eating and Drinking on the Island - What to Expect
Koh Yao Yai has plenty of restaurants and cafes to dine at. Whether you’re after a local Thai feast or fancy treating yourself to a fine-dining experience, there’s plenty of spots to head to.
As you are on an island, the prices are a little more than what you’ll pay on mainland Thailand, but that’s to be expected as everything you eat needs to be shipped across the sea!
Koh Yao Yai definitely still feels as though it’s finding its feet with tourism and a lot of the restaurants on the island were part of resorts or hotels, but if you look hard enough there are a couple of local gems still to be found!
As we were staying near the main town of Chong Lard a lot of the restaurants we mention are located in or around this town. We were also on a backpacking budget, so cheap eats were key for us.
If you’re on holiday and aren’t counting the pennies and after an amazing view over the coast we’d recommend seeking out the Blue Tamarind Restaurant & Bar (located here) or the Pier Koh Yao Yai (located here).
The Blue Tamarind Restaurant has a pretty epic view!
Prices for food seemed to be standard across the island with plates of fried rice / noodles costing around 100 to 120 baht a plate. Beer and cocktail prices (where sold - more on this later) also seemed to be the same with most places offering large beers at 120 baht.
Koh Yao Yai is predominantly a Muslim island which means that there is little pork available and alcohol is sold in only a few places (again more on this later in the essential travel information section).
The Best Restaurants and Coffee Shops - Our Favourite Dining Spots
Roti and Curry- Breakfast Local Style
(location)
This very local breakfast joint became our go to everyday. Serving up our favourite breakfast; roti and curry, the restaurant was always full of locals enjoying a hearty feast.
We would always order the same. Two sets of crisp roti topped with fried eggs, a bowl each of sweet, cinnamon rich beef curry and two iced Thai-style teas. It was a filling and delicious feast of texture, sweetness and spice. If you’ve never tried roti and curry, you’re in for a treat. There really is no breakfast like it!
We loved dining here every morning. The staff were so friendly and the locals were always smiling at us, sometimes looking a little intrigued at the two pasty white people greedily devouring roti. This restaurant is exactly the kind of restaurant we love in Thailand; no-nonsense, no frills, the kind of place with only a couple of things on the menu but each cooked amazingly!
The restaurant also sells plates of fried or boiled chicken and rice, crispy Thai style salad and huge spreads of khanom jeen (fermented noodles).
This restaurant is a very local kind of restaurant. Food will come as and when it's ready. It can get very popular in the mornings so expect a little wait for your food, but when it arrives it’ll be phenomenal!
Jahyah Restaurant
(location)
Located in the main town next to Chong Larn Pier, Jahyah Restaurant was always super popular with locals from morning to night. Serving all the Thai favourites from noodle soup to fried rice and noodles, we enjoyed two steaming plates of chicken pad kra pao and shrimp pad thai. Both plates were very tasty and were generously portioned!
Muslimah Restaurant 2
(location)
A short walk from the 7-Eleven in Chong Lard town is the very pretty Muslimah Restaurant 2. Draped in fairy lights with seating sprawling out of the open dining room into their garden, the Muslimah Restaurant is a pretty spot to head to once the sun has gone down.
We stuck with our Thai favourites and enjoyed dining at this restaurant twice during our stay. Their chicken pad kra pao was delicious. Not too sweet and not too saucy, the rice was topped with a generous helping of meat, sliced onion and crunchy vegetables.
The prices seem to vary widely depending on who served you. One day we were charged the menu price, the next day, the cost was literally halved and we paid what was possibly the locals price.
Don’t be put off by the big sign offering pizza!
If you’re staying in Loh Pared, you can dine at the original Muslimah restaurant there as well.
Laleuca Café & Eatery @Laem Had
(location)
This super modern eatery is about as close as you’ll get to the sleek, contemporary vibes of Koh Samui on Koh Yao Yai. A wooden and thatched reed bar sits open on all sides with comfy seating spilling out onto the white sand. Above the seating area fairy lights and colourful bunting are strung across the bar and trees of their pretty garden.
We headed here after a morning swim at Laem Had Beach and enjoyed two iced lattes which were the perfect refresher on a blazing hot day. The cafe also serves main meals, cocktails and beers. Laleuca Cafe was definitely the most modern and upmarket restaurant we visited during our stay on Yai!
The cafe also offers accommodation in pretty, Bali-style wooden bungalows. To book a stay at Laleuca, click here.
Palm Cafe
(location)
Our favourite style of Thai bar - a wooden, bamboo strewn bar full of cosy lights, hammocks, chilled out beats and lots of places to sit, lie and relax!
The Palm Cafe was a mix of a bar, cannabis dispensary and takeaway beer shop all in one. There’s a fridge full of ice-cold beer and a counter full of different strains of weed - it looked like an adult sweet shop!
We always stuck with the ice-cold beer and enjoyed some chilled out evenings with bottles of Singha, laid back tunes and a fiery sky above!
The Palm Cafe also served up a small selection of deep fried snacks and edibles - their french fries were the perfect salty snack paired with our beer.
If you’re after a cheap beer, the Palm Cafe was the cheapest beer we found on the island. They have a ‘Happy Hour’ promotion each night, charging 100 baht for a large Chang and 110 baht for a large Singha.
Chada Cafe
(location)
Set just off the main road, Chada Cafe has an incredible view down a hill, over palm trees all the way to the bright blue bay below. We stopped in here for coffee and weren’t disappointed - we ordered two iced americanos that were strong and nutty. The cafe also serves all the Thai favourites alongside pasta and cake!
The best seats are outside on the bar overlooking the shoreline and islands of the Andaman Sea.
The cafe is sandwiched between the Thiwson Beach Resort and the Betterview Bed Breakfast And Bungalow’s, both of which would have phenomenal views out over the bay!
Sbay Sbay Restaurant
(location)
Set just off the main road on the shores of a small, mangrove-filled inlet full of moored fishing boats, Sbay Sbay won the Jellie awards for the prettiest view from its dining room.
We visited the restaurant at lunch time and ordered two plates of chicken fried rice which were cooked to perfection. Crispy, fresh and full of flavour they were everything you expect from a good plate of fried rice.
Sbay Sbay is a little more expensive than other restaurants we visited on the island with fried rice costing 150 baht per plate, but for the view it’s really not bad!
Sbay Sbay also offers massages on-site in a small hut overlooking the sea. Prices start at 350 baht for a 60 minute Thai style massage.
We visited the restaurant at lunch but can imagine it would be a fantastic spot for an early dinner to watch the sunset!
At Sbay Sbay you dine right on the shoreline!
Rimnapazep
(location)
After travelling extensively through Thailand’s northeastern region of Isan (check out our blogs here) we’ve developed a love for grilled chicken (gai yang), spicy som tam salad and sticky rice and as soon as we saw this was on the menu at Rimnapazep we dove straight in!
We ordered our usual and out came half a chicken grilled to perfection. The chicken was covered in a sweet, spicy glaze, the perfect coating to retain the moist meat underneath! Our corn som tam salad was spicy, zingy and topped with a generous lashing of peanuts. A lot of the time in more tourist places when we ask for our salad to be spicy, it’s usually only shown a picture of a chilli, but this time they had certainly listened to us and every mouthful was full of that addictive spicy heat! It was the perfect accompaniment to the sweet chicken.
If you’re after an Isan BBQ feast, head here on your stay - we promise you won’t be disappointed!
Great Sushi and Fried Banana
(location)
Serving you guessed it… sushi and fried banana - a combination we could never have imagined!
Great Sushi and Fried Banana is a small stall set on the side of the main road. You’ll know you're in the right spot when you see the giant mural of a cat holding chopsticks.
We pulled in mid-afternoon and ordered a selection of sushi for a late lunch. We have developed a soft spot for Thai style sushi. It’ll never win any awards in Japan, but it's become one of our comfort eats whilst travelling. Great sushi had a selection of crab sticks, mackerel, tuna and egg sushi to choose from. All of which were super cheap!
Just be careful, the packet wasabi paste is not to be messed with! If you add too much you’re going to be crying and snorting fire 😂
After our fishy feast it was time for our fried bananas. We’ve eaten our fair share of deep fried bananas in Thailand and these were great. We think they were fried in coconut oil as every bite had a nutty undertone of coconut. They were delicious and the perfect pudding to finish off with.
Pro tip: come just as the stall is about to close - we got the last of the bananas and were given a huge bag to devour!
Coffee Bar By Demeter Coffee
(location)
Another weed, bar and coffee shop combo, Demeter Coffee is your one stop shop to get energised, high and disorientated all at the same time - although we wouldn’t recommend doing all 3!
We headed there mid-morning and ordered 2 iced americanos which hit the spot perfectly.
Demeter Coffee is an extremely chilled out spot to relax in. With plenty of places to sit and lounge out on and lots of board games to pass the time!
It’s just down the road from the popular Loh Pared Beach.
Where to Stay on Koh Yao Yai
Hostels and Guesthouses - Budget Stays on Koh Yao Yai
If you are backpackers like us and are on a strict travel budget, then don’t worry, there are some cheap beds for the night.
We stayed at the Coral Retreat Guesthouse located in the heart of the main town closest to Chong Lard Pier. Our room was very comfy, with strong air-conditioning, fast internet and a hot shower.
The bungalow was slightly strange in its layout as the bedroom was a windowless room right in the middle of the building and our accommodation seemed to be more corridor than bedroom, but that just meant there was plenty of space for us to unpack. The bungalow came with a fridge and kettle as well as a handy seating area outside. They also had the lovely touch of putting an outdoor tap outside every room which was great when coming back sandy from a day on the beach.
Coral Retreat was in a great location right in the heart of the town and was within walking distance of restaurants, shops and a 7-Eleven.
To book your stay at Coral Retreat Guesthouse, click here.
If you’re after a hostel, there is one on the island - the Backpack Hostel Koh Yao Yai. This hostel is a lot closer to the pier than Coral Retreat, but still in the same town so you’d be very close to restaurants and KNK for motorbike rental (see later).
The hostel offers mixed dorm rooms, single sex dorms, a shared kitchen and a common room.
To book a stay at Backpack Hostel Koh Yao Yai, click here.
Hotels and Resorts - Luxury Escapes on Koh Yao Yai
For those who are looking for a luxury island escape or for a beachside getaway, Koh Yao Yai has plenty of hotels and resorts to choose from. Whatever your luxury needs are; beachfront or seaview, spa or infinity pool there’s plenty of high-end escapes on offer on the island.
There’s the very luxurious, 5-star Santhiya Resort and Spa located in Loh Pared Beach with its pool or sea view bungalows. Or if you want a beachfront stay, why not check out the nearby BJ & Radisson Sea View Hotel or Royal Yao Yai Island Beach Resort.
If you’re looking for accommodation with a sensational Southern Thai view, then why not check out the Anantara Resort and Villas on the western side of the island or the Koh Yao Yai Village resort and its curving infinity pool.
Whatever your needs are, there’s plenty of spots on the island to treat yourself to a luxurious stay!
If you want a room with a view, Koh Yao Yai can definitely provide!
Booking Accommodation on the Island
Whatever your budget is and whatever type of accommodation you’re after, we’d recommend searching for your bed using our handy map below. Just enter the dates of your island break and it’ll display all the accommodation available during that time.
If you’re planning to travel during the peak season (November to April) make sure to book your accommodation well in advance! Koh Yao Yai is an island slightly less well known than other Thai islands, but it is “up and coming”, you don’t want to miss out on your epic seaview room because you left booking too late!
Getting Around Koh Yao Yai
Hiring a Taxi or Songthaew
There are taxis and songthaews available on Koh Yao Yai but they will be expensive with one-way trips starting at around 600 baht. If you want to hire a taxi, speak with your accommodation, plan a full day of sightseeing and negotiate on prices.
When you arrive at Chong Lard Pier there will be plenty of taxis waiting to take you where you need to go. Some hotels and resorts will pre-arrange a pickup for you.
Scooter / Motorbike Rental
Wherever you are on the island you won’t have to travel far to find a scooter or motorbike to rent, they are found almost everywhere! With the high price of taxis this was by far the most economical and efficient way of getting around the island.
The island of Koh Yao Yai is very big and if you’re not staying at a beachfront resort or hotel, you’re going to need your own set of wheels to get around.
We rented two bikes from the super helpful KNK Motorbike Rental just up the road from Chong Larn Pier (located here). We messaged KNK in advance of arriving on the island and arranged to hire two scooters. As soon as we landed we headed straight there from the pier where both our bikes were waiting for us. One Honda Click and one Honda Scoopy, both brand new and both a dream to ride! We paid 250 baht per bike per day.
We cannot recommend KNK highly enough. Daeng, the owner, was super helpful and so friendly. She gave us recommendations on what to see and do, where to eat and tide times. She even booked our speedboat tickets at the end of our stay and gave us a lift to the pier.
If you don’t fancy a scooter and prefer three wheels, there are options at some of the motorbike rentals on the island to hire a scooter with a sidecar. Perfect for if your other half wants to be a passenger princess!
The island of Koh Yao Yai is very rural. The roads are very quiet but be aware of wildlife and obstacles! During our scooter based exploration we saw lots of snakes slithering their way across the road, some inquisitive goats just taking a stroll and two, very big monitor lizards making a bid for freedom from the dense undergrowth. Our most fun wildlife encounter was seeing a monkey hitch a ride on a scooter towing a trailer full of coconuts!
The roads in Asia certainly keep you on your toes.
Spot the monitor lizard!
Petrol and Garages on Koh Yao Yai
If you’ve hired your own set of wheels you’ll need some petrol to explore. Luckily the island is oversupplied with petrol pumps. Just look out on the side of the road for red, metal petrol pump vending machines. It should cost around 80 to 120 baht to fill up your tank on a scooter.
There is only one petrol station on the island located here. If you can, we’d recommend avoiding it at 5pm as this seemed to be rush hour on the island. We made the mistake of turning up at 5 and it was like we arrived late for a festival!
The roads on Koh Yao Yai are very quiet!
All the Essential Travel Information you Need for Visiting
When to Visit Koh Yao Yai - Wet and Dry Season on the Island
The best time to visit Koh Yao Yai is during the dry season which runs from November until April. During this time you should have hot, sunny days and rainfall should be at a minimum. The dry season would be the best time for snorkelling trips as the seas should be calmer and visibility at its best. It also means that everythinn on the island will be open and ready for you.
The dry season is the peak tourist time so if you’re planning a trip to Koh Yao Yai during these months, make sure to book your accommodation and transport well in advance. The best hotels and resorts can sell out quickly, especially during December around Christmas and New Year and in April around the Songkran festivities. To book your accommodation on Koh Yao Yai, click here.
Koh Yao Yai’s wet season runs from May until October. During these months the weather can be wet and stormy. The island is very quiet during this time and a few hotels and restaurants may close for the low season. That being said, we visited at the start of the wet season and had a fantastic stay. We had all the beaches to ourselves and although it did rain most days, it was only for an hour or two. The rain would quickly clear up and the sunny skies return.
When it rains it rains, but it’s for too long!
The only slight negative for travelling during this time was that the sea was a little rough which meant we couldn’t do a snorkelling trip and a couple of the beach bars and restaurants were closed. Even in the low season however, we never struggled to eat.
How Long Should You Stay on Koh Yao Yai?
This completely depends on you, your travel style and what you want to get out of the island. If you’re on a holiday and staying in one of the high end resorts on the island you could easily spend a few days to a week or two just relaxing in luxury.
If you don’t have the luxury of time, you could easily condense your stay on the island to just a night or two. If you have little time we’d recommend jumping off the ferry, hiring a scooter and finding some beachfront accommodation to maximise your time on the island.
We spent a week on the island which gave us enough time to really explore it in-depth whilst still giving us the opportunity for some lazy days on the beach!
Koh Yao Yai is very undeveloped!
Island Amenities - What to Expect on Koh Yao Yai
ATMs and Cash Withdrawals
There are plenty of ATMs dotted all over the island with two machines outside the two 7-Eleven stores.
Cash is king especially if you’re dining in the more “local” restaurants or booking trips and excursions with tour agencies. The larger resorts and hotels will have card machines, but we’d always recommend you have a good stash of baht on you! Lots of places will charge an extra fee if you’re paying by card.
Convenience Stores and 7-Elevens
The island is home to two 7-Eleven stores. One in Chong Lard village (located here) and the other in the middle of the island (located here) close to the junction that leads to Loh Pared Beach. Both stores sell all the usual; toasties, sushi triangles and pot noodles but neither sell alcohol.
If you’d rather support local businesses there are plenty of smaller shops dotted in the villages throughout the island, selling everything from fruit to beach toys, toiletries to chocolate!
Alcohol and Bars
As we’ve mentioned throughout this guide, alcohol is not as easy to obtain on Koh Yao Yai as other Thai islands. The island is predominantly Muslim and alcohol is really not that widely available. There are still beach bars on Loh Pared Beach and more may be open in the high season, but the island is not as “bar focussed” as other Thai destinations. There were a few other establishments on the island that did sell alcohol but these were always thrown in with a cannabis dispensary.
If bars are a deal breaker for you, then we honestly would recommend a stay on the neighbouring Koh Yao Noi where there’s Charlie’s Bar, the Extra Sports Bar and the Mojito Beach Bar (read more about them here).
For those heading to Koh Yao Yai and staying in one of the larger resorts or hotels, then you’ll almost certainly have a bar on-site.
If you’re after a couple of beers to take home with you, head to the Palm Cafe (see above) or you could buy beer from the Nine Square supermarket located just outside Chong Larn town in the north of the island here.
Alcohol is not sold in the 7-Eleven stores on this island.
Who needs a bar when you have views like this?!
A Day Trip To Koh Yao Yai
From Phuket, Krabi and Railay
You could easily visit Koh Yao Yai as a day trip especially if you’re staying in Phuket, Krabi or Railay. To make the most out of your visit to the island we’d recommend booking tickets for the first and last speedboats of the day giving you plenty of time to explore.
If you can ride a scooter, we’d recommend jumping off the boat and heading straight to KNK motorbike rentals and hiring a scooter for the day. From there you could head for breakfast in Chong Larn town before heading off for a full day of beach-hopping and island adventures. If you can’t ride a bike but want to explore the island, give KNK a message beforehand as we’re sure they could put you in touch / arrange a driver for the day.
From Phuket the first boat leaves Bang Rong Pier at 8:30 AM. From Krabi, the best boat to catch is the 9.30 AM speedboat that departs Ao Thalane Pier and from Railay, we’d recommend catching the 9.20 AM speedboat that departs from the floating pier on Railay East.
To book your boat tickets to and from Koh Yao Yai, we’d recommend checking out 12Go here.
A day trip to Koh Yao Yai would be great especially if you’re visiting the more popular tourist destinations. Koh Yao Yai feels very different. It feels like an island where real people live and work. It’s an island where tourism is important, but not necessarily its main focus. If you’re looking to see a different side to Thailand from the resort focussed beaches of Phuket, Ao Nang or Railay, then definitely check out a day trip to Koh Yao Yai.
Visiting Koh Yao Yai From Koh Yao Noi
If you’re staying on neighbouring Koh Yao Noi, Yai is an easy day trip. Just head to Manoh Pier and arrange a longtail boat to take you over to Chong Larn Pier on Koh Yao Yai. A journey between the two islands should cost 100 baht per person per crossing.
Where To Go Next?
If you’re lucky enough to have more time on your Thai visa then there’s plenty of spots to head to after Koh Yao Yai.
Head to Koh Yao Noi Island
You could easily pair a Koh Yao Yai visit with a stay on Koh Yao Noi. Despite being so close to each other, the islands are very different. The island of Noi is a lot smaller than Yai but is stuffed full of pretty beaches, great accommodation and things to do.
For more information about Koh Yao Noi, check out our full guide to the island here.
Island Hopping Around the Andaman Sea
If you’re after more beach time then there are plenty of other nearby islands to choose from with ferries and speedboats criss-crossing the Andaman Sea.
If you’re after an island with luxury accommodation and stunning beaches, then why not check out Koh Lanta. Or if you’re after a lesser known island gem, why not head to Koh Jum, Koh Mook or Koh Libong.
All Our Thailand Blogs
We’ve got plenty of Thailand blogs, ranging from island guides to hidden gems in Isan, whatever you’re after, we’re sure to have a Thailand blog written.
To read all our Thailand guides, click here.
Final Thoughts - Why Visit Koh Yao Yai?
Is Koh Yao Yai Worth a Trip?
Koh Yao Yai felt a world away from the popular tourist destinations of Phuket and Ao Nang. The island is absolutely stunning with gorgeous beaches, laidback vibes and jaw-dropping views.
If you’re after a week of rest and relaxation in a luxury 4 or 5-star resort,Koh Yao Yai can provide. Or if you’re the more adventurous traveller, you could easily spend a week exploring the island at your own leisure, beach hopping and riding a scooter through the jungle roads.
The island isn’t as built up as other islands and if you’re after late nights out, beach bars and parties then Koh Yao Yai is not the island for you but if you’re after an undiscovered slice of Thai island life, then Yai is a great option.
For now Koh Yao Yai has stayed hidden under the radar of mass tourism but this will change. It’s a stones throwaway from Phuket and Krabi and it won’t be long until this island changes! If you want to see a Thai island with beaches you can still access without staying in a fancy resort, or see where locals live and work, then head to Yai!
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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