A Guide To Ranong - The Gateway To Thailand’s Undiscovered Islands
Sitting in a lesser known portion of Thailand’s lush southern region, Ranong city is a destination only for travellers in the know! Usually just seen as a jumping off point to the island of Koh Phayam, Ranong town has so much more to offer. Come with us as we guide you through everything to see, do and eat in Ranong.
Sitting on the western shores of the Andaman Sea, the Thai city of Ranong is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. With strong influences from Myanmar, Malaysia and China, Ranong is a unique city full of history, art and delicious food. The city of Ranong isn’t well known amongst Western travellers. Those who do travel to the city, usually use it as a stepping stone, a quick one night stop to break up a long journey to the island of Koh Phayam.
Nestled between a row of high peaks to the east and the gentle Andaman Sea to the west, Ranong felt a world away from the more popular tourist destinations of Southern Thailand. We only had a few days in the city, but quickly realised there is so much more to this little, undiscovered corner of Thailand. From a replica royal palace to vibrant street art, a bustling market to a stunning viewpoint, there’s plenty to keep you occupied.
Read on to find out what there is to do and why there’s so much more to this little Thai city than just the islands of Koh Phayam and Koh Chang!
In this Ranong Travel Guide
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What to See and Do in Ranong?
Shop at Ranong’s Old Market
(location)
Ranong’s Old Market is like the city's motherboard, the literal soul and lifeblood of the city. From early morning until late at night, the market is abuzz with the sounds of locals bartering, woks sizzling and cleavers clunking. It’s one of those places where your senses are heightened to another level. Inside the market the smells of dried spices mix with the pungent tang of fermented fish, whilst flickering lamps and vibrantly coloured plastic toys oversaturate the dark alleyways.
We’ve visited many Thai markets in the past, but Ranong’s Old Market was completely different. Influences from neighbouring Myanmar were prevalent throughout. Huge bags of dried cumin and turmeric, sat alongside mounds of Thai red, green and yellow curry pastes. Gone were the adverts written in Thai, and instead huge billboards recommending SIM cards and bank accounts decorated the walls with curving Burmese script.
Don’t be deceived, Ranong’s Old Market is a lot bigger than you realise. To the side of the main building (the one on the main road), a small street lined with stalls snakes its way down a steep hill to another large covered market building. This in turn tunnels its way into the streets below. As you exit this building, the market explodes out onto the backstreets all around. Ranong’s Old Market is huge, its a market that sells everything and anything. Fresh meat to underwear, stationary to dried noodles. Whatever you’re after we’re sure you could find it in this market!
If you’re after a feast the market is the best place to order a plate of local delicacies. The food court serves food all day and we ate at the market several times throughout our stay. We enjoyed a delicious bowl of roast pork noodles and ate a massive plate of rice and curry as well as some great breakfasts.
Our favourite meal we devoured was a huge spread of khanom jeen. We ordered two bowls of fermented noodles topped with what looked like a massaman style chicken curry. After we ordered, the lady quickly waved us over to a table that was covered like a stained glass window, in bowls of colorful pickles, white, beansprouts, green beans and bright orange carrots. We topped our bowls with the crunchy veg and sat down to slurp up our slippery smorgasbord spread!
Khanom jeen is a hard sell to those in the West. Cold noodles and lukewarm curry - most people instantly turn their noses up when we talk about it, but trust us, it’s delicious!
Walk Around Ranong's Old Town
(location)
Most travellers planning a trip to Ranong will find themselves staying in Ranong’s Old Town on Ruangrat Road. Full of hostels, hotels and guesthouses, this historic street is full of shops, cafes and restaurants. It is also where the town’s Walking Street market is held (see later).
During the 19th and 20th century, the city and province of Ranong flourished thanks to its thriving tin mining industry. As the city began to prosper, Chinese workers and investors flocked to the town and with them they brought their own customs and culture.
The heritage of Ranong’s tin industry can still be seen today. The Tai Tae Eia Shrine (location) sitting just down the road from Ranong’s Old Market once served as a clinic for locals. Just up the road is another Chinese temple, the Hok Tek Sue Shrine (location) its entrance marked by hanging Chinese lanterns. All along Ruangrat Road the historic shophouses have been given new leases of life in the forms of cute cafes, restaurants, hotels and hostels.
Visit Rattana Rangsarn Throne Hall and Palace
(location)
Sitting pride of place above a pretty, manicured park and gardens is Ranong’s Rattana Rangsarn Throne Hall and Palace. This dark brown, teak wood palace sits in stark contrast to the bright green lawns surrounding it.
First things first, this is not the original palace! The beautiful, huge wooden throne hall is a replica built on the original site to commemorate the historic palace. The original palace was constructed to house a royal visit of King Rama V and his Queen in 1890.
The palace and throne hall are split over two buildings, with a small covered walkway connecting them together. Inside, the wooden walls are filled with photographs from King Rama V’s visit as well as information about how the palace was built. The royal bedroom and throne room are filled with antique furniture used by the royals on their stay.
One of our favourite things about the palace was the huge open windows that looked out over the pretty gardens below and down towards the rooftops of Ranong. It hadn’t felt like we had climbed that far up out of the city, but the views from the palace and the cool breeze really felt as though we were up high.
You’ll need to take your shoes off before entering and there is strictly no photography allowed in the throne room.
Entrance fee: Tickets cost 100 baht per person for foreigners.
Opening times: The palace is open every Wednesday to Sunday from 9:10AM until 4:00PM.
Climb the Khao Niwet View Point and Skywalk
(location)
Rising up above the Rattana Rangsarn Palace looms the metal walkway of Ranong’s Khao Niwet View Point and Skywalk. Sitting like a huge, brutalist style, white concrete and metal carved silo, the architecture of Khao Niwet View Point couldn’t be any more different than its teakwood neighbour.
To reach the top, you need to climb up the gentle sloping walkway that curves its way up and around, until you reach the canopy of the trees. At the top, the walkway opens up to give you a massive 360 degree sweeping panorama view out over the jagged mountain peaks, colourful rooftops of Ranong and down all the way to the mangrove shoreline of the glinting Andaman Sea.
Standing next to the walkway, dwarfing all the trees around it, is one of Ranong’s sacred trees. This humongous tree dominates the skyline and is possibly the tallest tree we’ve ever seen! Next to the trunk of the tree, ribbons have been tied to the metal walkway, left by devotees as a sign of respect to this huge behemoth. We loved how the colourful strips of material caught the warm sea air.
To climb the viewpoint you will need to take off your shoes and borrow a pair of plastic slip-on slippers from the ticket desk.
We visited during the day, but can imagine the skywalk would be phenomenal at sunset!
Entrance fee: Tickets cost just 10 baht (for the shoes).
Opening times: The viewpoint is open everyday from 6:00AM until 8:00PM.
Visit Ranong’s City Pillar (San Lak Muang Ranong)
(location)
Ranong’s City Pillar (San Lak Muang Ranong) is a popular pilgrimage spot for locals and Thai tourists to pay their respects and leave offerings. As with all Thai cities, the city pillar is a focal point for the community and is seen as the soul or guardian of the town.
When we visited Ranong's City Pillar, it was completely hidden in a thick blanket of smoke after a group of locals set off some very loud firecrackers! After the smoke cleared, the white shrine appeared and a golden pillar wrapped in colourful ribbons emerged from the mist.
Pay Your Respects at Ho Phra Kao Kechi - Hall Of The Nine Revered Images
(location)
Sitting on the side of the road, within walking distance of Rattana Rangsarn Palace gardens, is a small red, white and gold shrine, Ho Phra Kao Kechi or Hall Of The Nine Revered Images as it is known in English.
Inside this small prayer hall sit nine seated Buddhist statues wrapped in bright orange saffron cloth, each representing one of the nine revered monks the shrine is dedicated to. There is very little information in English, but if you’re heading to Rattana Rangsarn Palace gardens or the Skywalk it’s worth a quick peek inside.
Go Shopping on Ranong’s Weekend Walking Street Market
(location)
On every Saturday from December to April, Ranong’s Weekend Walking Street Market opens up all along Ruangrat Street from early evening until late.
We unfortunately missed the market by just a couple of weeks so can't give you a first hand account of what to expect. But if Ranong’s Walking Street is like any other Thai weekend market then you're in for a treat!
Weekend markets in Thailand all follow a similar setup. Hundreds of stalls line a long street selling everything from t-shirts to phone accessories, children's toys to local crafts. The best bit about any Thai Walking Street market is the abundance of delicious local street food. From Thai style sushi to Hat Yai fried chicken, moo ping sticks to mango sticky rice, whatever your Thai cravings are there'll almost certainly be a stall to cater for you!
A Weekend Walking Street Market is an absolute must on any trip to Thailand. They're laid-back, full of locals and always a great evening out. If you do visit Ranong's Walking Street Market, let us know in the comments what we missed.
Spot Ranong’s Colourful Street Art
(location)
Throughout the Old Town, hidden down tiny alleyways and sprayed across huge walls you’ll find colourful street art.
As we explored the town we spotted lots of different vibrant murals. One painting showed a playground scene full of cats, another featured a red songthaew piled high with flowers on its roof. Our favourite piece we spotted was a Chinese dragon emerging from blue waves whilst beating a hand drum.
Just wander through the old town and see what you stumble upon!
Eat a Roti and Curry Feast at Roti Bangnui
(location)
Roti and curry is possibly the greatest breakfast dish in the whole world. Name a better morning than waking up to devour a feast of crispy roti dipped in a rich curry! For those who haven’t tried it, roti is a flakey, layered pastry style bread which is usually served alongside a warm and richly spiced bowl of creamy curry. The only way to eat roti and curry is to tear off shards of the crisp bread, dip it into the curry until it’s soaked through and slurp it up. There really is no better way to start the day!
Ranong’s Roti Bangnui is your typical, very busy Thai breakfast, shophouse style restaurant. Plastic chairs and tables sit alongside a busy serving area whilst on the street sits a massive, flaming grill.
Roti Bangnui serves up roti in every shape and style; savoury, sweet, stuffed (murtabak), fried with egg or even an Italian hybrid - roti pizza style! Whatever type of roti you fancied you could order it here.
We stuck with our usual go-to order: two crispy roti, a bowl of chicken massaman curry and two iced Thai-style teas.
Our feast was delicious. The roti was crisped to perfection and the ideal vessel to slurp up the rich massaman curry. It’s possibly due to its Burmese influences, but the massaman curry from Roti Bangnui was completely different and some of the best we’ve ever eaten. The curry was spiked with deep cinnamon, cumin and turmeric notes and the potatoes were so soft they literally melted into the sauce as we dunked our crispy pastry. It was such a good breakfast, full of sweet, savoury and spicy overtones!
We cannot recommend Roti Bangbui enough and if you only have time for one breakfast in Ranong, make sure it’s from here. The restaurant is open everyday (except Friday’s) from 6AM until 4PM.
If you’re coming from or heading on to Phuket, there’s a very good and famous roti stall in the heart of Phuket’s Old Town - find out more about it here.
Enjoy a Coffee at Haru’s Cafe
(location)
After a busy day exploring Ranong, you’ll need somewhere to rejuvenate and Haru’s Cafe fits the bill perfectly.
Sitting in the heart of the Old Town the cafe from the outside doesn’t look like much, but inside, it feels as though you’ve stepped into a cosy, yet modern art-filled cottage. Sleek contemporary furniture sits alongside warm, glowing lamps to create a snug and mellow atmosphere.
We ordered two delicious iced americanos and they were fantastic. Strong, nutty and with a bitter almost dark chocolate aftertone, they were the pick-me-up we needed after a full day of sight-seeing. The coffees came served with a sweet and savoury biscuit that was delicious paired with the rich coffee.
We enjoyed a couple of coffees in town, but the caffeine offerings from Haru’s cafe were definitely our favourite!
Other Things to Do in Ranong and Ranong Province
We only scratched the surface on what there is to see and do in Old Town Ranong. A combination of only having a few days and torrential rain storms stopped us from exploring more of the city and the wider province.
In the Old Town we didn’t make it to the 100 Years Thein Suek House (location) or the Residence of the Governor of Ranong Museum (location).
Outside of town, in the much larger Ranong Province, we would have loved to hire a scooter and explore the mountains and villages surrounding the city. A short drive away there’s Ranong Canyon (location) and the nearby Had Som Paen Reservoir (location) as well as the hot springs of Raksa Warin (location), Taryn (location) and Phongran (location). All these are located only a short distance away from the city.
Ranong is a province we will be returning to for longer and for a more thorough exploration. We’ve only sampled a small amuse-bouche of what this hidden corner of Thailand offers and what little we’ve sampled, we’ve absolutely loved. It’s definitely somewhere we’ll be heading back to!
Just some of Ranong’s Old Town attractions!
Visit the Islands of Koh Phayam or Koh Chang
The islands of Koh Phayam or Koh Chang Ranong (not to be mistaken for its much larger brother, the island of Koh Chang in eastern Thailand), are almost certainly going to be the main reason why you came to Ranong to start with. Sitting just 40 minutes away, these two Thai islands feel undiscovered and untouched by the throngs of mass tourism. They are the kind of islands you thought no longer existed in Thailand.
We spent nearly a month on Koh Phayam soaking up the chilled out atmosphere, lounging on the beaches and enjoying a beer or two in a real-life pirate ship!
Getting to Koh Phayam or Koh Chang Ranong
Both islands are super easy to get to from Ranong, with speedboats and ferries departing from the nearby Ranong Pier (located here) everyday.
To reach the pier you can either book a private taxi or tuk tuk to take you there, or you can hop on one of the red public songthaews that drive around town. To get to the pier you’ll need songthaew number 3. If you’re staying in the Old Town, they stop on the same side of the road as “A Day Inn” hostel and route around the City Pillar and market before heading to the pier.
We paid 30 baht each for the songthaew to take us from the Old Town and drop us off on the main road just next to the entrance to the pier. From the songthaew drop of point, it’s only a short, 5 minute walk to ferry. You can either book tickets at the pier itself or with one of the many tour operators that line the approach to the pier.
To get to the islands you can choose between taking the cheaper but longer ferry or the quicker but more expensive speedboat. We opted for the speedboat and paid 350 baht each for our tickets.
We bought our tickets to Koh Phayam on the day, but if you’re travelling in peak season and want to guarantee your seat, we’d recommend booking your tickets in advance.
If you have your own transport there is car and motorbike parking available next to the pier for a small fee.
Book your tickets to the islands of Koh Phayam in advance here.
Where to Stay in Ranong
Our Accommodation - The Caspar Hostel
We stayed at the excellent Caspar Hostel sitting in the heart of Ranong’s Walking Street.
We booked a private en-suite room and it was everything we needed. Our little room was clean and comfy, super cosy and the shower hot. When we visited at the start of the off-season, we literally were the only ones there.
To book your stay at the Caspar Hostel, click here.
All Other Hostels, Guesthouses and Hotels in Ranong
All along Ruangrat Road (the main road that runs through the Old Town) you’ll find plenty of hostels, guesthouses and hotels to stay in.
Just over the road, opposite the Caspar Hotel is another beautiful hostel, A Day Inn Ranong. Set in an old shophouse and offering both dorms and private rooms, it looks as though it would be a great spot to stay. A little further up the road is the extremely well reviewed Farm House Hotel. With a swimming pool, rooms with balconies and a restaurant on-site, it looks as though you’d have a very comfy stay there!
To book your stay in Ranong, check out our handy map below. Just enter your travel dates and take a look at all the accommodation available.
Getting to Ranong
How to Get to Ranong From Bangkok
The easiest way to reach Ranong from Bangkok is to catch a bus.
Buses depart everyday from either Bangkok’s Mochit Bus Terminal or the Southern Bus Terminal and journeys can take between 8 to 15 hours depending on the bus company / the number of stops it makes along the way.
To book your Bangkok to Ranong bus tickets, click here.
If you’d prefer to catch a train (6 to 7.5 hours), the nearest train station to Ranong is Chumphon Railway Station. From there, you’ll need to catch a bus (around 2 hour drive) onwards to Ranong. Book your Bangkok to Chumphon train tickets here and your Chumphon to Ranong bus tickets here.
If you’re feeling fancy and aren’t on a backpacking budget, then there is a small airport located just outside of Ranong. Currently there is only one flight departing (and returning) a day from Bangkok to Ranong.
To book flights from Bangkok’s Don Mueng Airport to Ranong Airport, click here.
Ranong’s Old Market is full of local delicacies!
Getting to Ranong From Krabi, Phuket and Surat Thani
Thailand is super easy to get around and wherever you are in Southern Thailand, you’ll easily be able to get to Ranong. With an extensive bus network criss-crossing the length and breadth of the country, you’ll never find yourself stranded.
We headed to Ranong from Krabi. We left mid morning and caught a comfy bus straight from Krabi’s Bus Terminal and arrived in Ranong late afternoon.
The route we took was absolutely stunning, we weaved through curving mountain roads, past thick jungle and jagged limestone karsts. We stopped for lunch in a small market town and feasted on a huge plate of rice and curry, it was just the kind of bus ride we love!
To book your Krabi to Ranong bus tickets in advance, click here.
If you’re coming from Phuket, buses depart daily from Phuket’s Bus Terminal 2 and take around 5 to 6 hours to reach Ranong.
To book your Phuket to Ranong bus tickets in advance, click here.
For those who are coming from the islands of Koh Samui, Koh Tao or Koh Phangan you’ll need to catch a ferry or speedboat back over to the mainland and then head to Surat Thani Bus Station to catch a bus onwards to Ranong. From the bus station in Surat Thani, it should take you around 4 hours to get to Ranong.
Book your Surat Thani to Ranong bus tickets here.
To check out all the different transport options available and to book your tickets in advance to Ranong, check out the 12Go widget below.
If you’re arriving by bus, Ranong’s bus station is located just outside the main city. You can find it on a map here. At the bus station there are plenty of tuk tuks, songthaews and taxis waiting to take you into town, onto your accommodation or straight to the ferry pier. Just speak to the drivers and negotiate a price for your ride.
If you’re hungry, there’s plenty of restaurants, food stalls and cafes surrounding the bus terminal and there’s a 7-Eleven shop just off the main road. If you’re looking for a bed, close to the bus station, why not check out the Tobedzz hotel.
Essential Travel Information for Visiting Ranong
Where is Ranong City?
Ranong is located in Southern Thailand and sits on the western coast overlooking the Andaman Sea. The city can be found on Google Maps here. The city lies 576 KM (around an eight to nine hour drive) away from the Thai capital of Bangkok.
Ranong city is the capital and name of the much larger Ranong province. Any quick Google search of Ranong and you’ll quickly find its only claim to fame - Ranong is one of Thailand’s rainiest places! Amongst locals, the city is known as the town of “eight rain, four sun”. Eight months of the year it rains heavily and the short, sunny summer months are contained to the remaining four. Don’t let this put you off though, we had a fantastic stay in Ranong!
Ranong shares a border with the Thai provinces of Chumphon to the north, Surat Thani to the southeast and Phang Nga to the south. The province also borders the country of Myanmar (previously, Burma). You can cross the border into Myanmar’s ‘Most Southerly Tip’ - the city of Kawthoung, by boat from Ranong.
Getting Around Ranong
Ranong’s Old Town is easily walkable with all the attractions set only a short distance away from each other. If you do need transport, either to the bus station or to Ranong’s Pier, you can easily flag down a tuk tuk or hop into the back of one of the songthaews that ride around town.
If you’re looking to hire a scooter, we’d recommend speaking with your accommodation or heading to Pon’s Place (location). This cafe and travel agency can help arrange scooter or car hire, taxi services, ferry tickets and even visa arrangements.
Red songthaews can be hailed down all over the city!
When to Visit Ranong - Wet / Dry Season in the City
The best time to visit Ranong is during Thailand’s dry season which runs from November until April. This is the peak time for tourism in the city.
If you’re planning a trip to Ranong during the dry season, especially during the weekend, make sure to book your accommodation and travel arrangements well in advance!
During the wet season (end of April until early November), the whole city practically shuts down to tourists and everywhere will feel very quiet. Accommodation, restaurants, tour agencies and most of the attractions will still be open but it’ll be exceptionally quiet and you’ll basically be the only ones in town. If you’re planning to visit Ranong during this time, just know that the Saturday Walking Street Market will be closed from the beginning of May until the end of November.
As we’ve mentioned throughout this article, Ranong’s main claim to fame is that it’s top of the class as one of the wettest places in the whole of Thailand. If you’re planning a trip to Ranong, make sure you pack a wet coat and umbrella. The weather can change very quickly and you don’t want to be stuck in a torrential downpour! Trust us, when it rains in Ranong it rains a lot.
That all being said, we visited Ranong in the wet season and had a great time. We love exploring without the crowds and Ranong was a chilled out (if soggy) town full of authentic food and great sights, whatever the weather.
We did get some blue sky!
How Long Should you Stay in Ranong?
This completely depends on you and what type of Thailand trip you’re on. If you’re just visiting Koh Phayam on a holiday, you’ll want to get to the beaches as soon as possible, so you’ll only need a night in town before or after your island break.
If you’re lucky enough to have time on your side, a long Thai visa or just want to see a city that’s far from the usual tourist trail, then you could easily spend up to a week just basing yourself in Ranong and exploring the wider province.
We only had a few nights before we headed off to Koh Phayam, but would love to have spent longer in the city. We were visiting at the very start of the wet season and the weather did stop us from exploring further afield. Next time, we’d love to visit during the drier months, rent a scooter and delve deeper into the province.
Final Thoughts
Is Ranong Worth a Visit?
We hate to answer this! If we didn’t enjoy Ranong we wouldn’t have wasted our time writing a whole guide to the town! So to answer this rather silly question, yes Ranong is absolutely, most definitely worth a visit!
We have been lucky to travel far and wide throughout the whole of Thailand and Ranong was one of those places that felt so different to everywhere else we’ve visited. The city had a unique identity, a curious mix of Thai and Burmese that had seeped throughout the city into its architecture, cuisine, history and art.
We only had a few days in Ranong and we have so much more to explore both in the city and the wider province. If you have the time on your Thailand itinerary, make sure you add a day or more to Ranong before your island break. It's a city that has its own distinct characteristics and is full of delicious food, friendly locals and pretty shophouses. We can’t wait to go back to explore more!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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