Nakhon Phanom - Isan Riverside Magic
Nakhon Phanom; most people won't have heard of it and still fewer will have visited. They are all missing out! Nakhon Phanom is an amazing riverside town, popular with Thai travellers and Westerners in the know. The town boasts amazing Isan, Thai and Vietnamese food as well as a rich history and buckets of things to go see and explore. From bustling markets to riverside walking trails, Mekong cruises to historic sites - there is plenty to do in Nakhon Phanom.
We were working our way down the Isan banks of the Mekong. Starting at Nong Khai we had travelled down to Bueng Kan and then hopped on to Nakhon Phanom. This was the town we had actually heard of before our trip! No less than two of our favourite travel YouTubers had rated this little riverside city as one of their favourite towns in Thailand - we wanted to see why.
We were not disappointed, Nakhon Phanom is an amazing, fun, delicious and friendly Isan city and 100% worth the effort to visit. Read on to find out why!
In this Guide:
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The History - What is Nakhon Phanom and What Makes it Special?
Nakhon Phanom is a true Isan town, that is to say it is a delicious mix of Thai, Lao, Chinese and even Vietnamese cuisines and culture. The city had been a Khmer city back in antiquity before being part of the Lao Lan Xang kingdom. It was then absorbed (and relocated across the river) into the Ayutthayan Thai dynasty. Ho Chi Minh lived there and, on the polar opposite side of the coin, it played host to the USAF during the Vietnam / American War. Nakhon Phanom has had a lot of history pass through it, much of which can still be explored today.
The cities name, Nakhon Phanom, is a bit misleading; it translates (roughly) to: "The City of Mountains". Standing on the level streets, looking around at the incredibly flat landscape of the surrounding Isan countryside you may wonder why you would name a city after the thing it most conspicuously lacks. However, look across the river, into Laos and the cities original location and it becomes clear. The limestone karsts of Thakhek sprout and sprawl all around the Laotian town.
The Lao’s side of the Mekong is decidedly more mountain-y!
With its rich history came a diverse influx of peoples, cultures and cuisines. During the Indo-Chinese wars, and following periods of French colonial aggression, large groups of Vietnamese settled in the town. They fled from Vietnam into Laos then across the Mekong into Nakhon Phanom. With them came the broths and breakfasts of their home country. There is a fantastic "Vietnam Town" district in Nakhon Phanom, with dozens of enticing eateries, and Chinese style shrines sitting next to Buddhist temples and Laotian / Isan barbecues lining the riverfront. Nakhon Phanom mixes all of its neighbours, flavours and peoples whilst remaining 100% an Isan Thai city.
What to Do in Nakhon Phanom
It's all very well us waxing lyrical about how great the town is, but what is there to actually do with your day? Settle down, Nakhon Phaom has plenty to offer! This little city is a popular weekend break destination for Thai tourists and, in addition to having loads to see and do, is a fantastic town just to relax and wander through.
This is what we got up to in Nakhon Phanom:
Mekong Riverfront Walk
The whole town is focused around the Mekong riverfront. There is a dedicated cycle path and walking route that runs all through the town and out either side. We wandered the route most days, getting some steps in and working off some of the mountains of delicious food we had munched on.
Walking North / West
Starting at the Giant Naga Statue (more on this later), we would walk north / west, keeping the river on our right. We would walk around 4km all the way to a great little cafe set inside the Thai Navy River Security unit - Cafe De Kong.
The walk took us past quite a few of Nakhon Phanom's historic attractions (most of which we will go cover in more detail later); we wandered past the Governor’s House, St. Annes Cathedral, a French colonial style courthouse and through the Naga Tunnel. We saw little riverside allotments, free swimmers and floating restaurants in and on the Mekong. It was a great way to explore the town and have a little exercise. Although, our little workout was nothing compared to the gaggle of men and women swimming in the fast flowing river!
The first part of the walk, through Nakhon Phanom town's riverfront, is where the famous weekend Walking Street Market sets up. It is dotted with trendy bars, craft beer sellers and waterfront restaurants. The bars and restaurants that line this section of the riverfront are all achingly cool, with custom graffiti and street art. At night this area lights up with neons and candle light; you can really see why Thai's come here for a weekend away! The walking path actually sticks out from the land and over the waters of the Mekong. It is a really cool addition to the town and really encourages you to go for a wander or cycle.
The Naga Tunnel (located here) is a green metal lattice than covers the cycle lane / walking path. It takes you right out over the Mekong on a tall raised walkway that curves away from the riverbank and over the water. Just after the tunnel is a sign and a small opening in a wall; this leads to Cafe De Kong, set just inside the Naval Unit base. The cafe has a fantastic terrace with views out over the river. The whole set up is run (we think, our Thai isn't the best!), by Navy wives. This would be the point on our river walk where we would stop, invalidate any benefit our exercise may have had with an iced latte, and head back south to town.
If you want to go further you can continue on after the cafe. The cycle lane and walking path follow the river nearly all the way to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. This route will take you further out from the town and bring you past more riverside restaurants and some famous temples. If you do venture out this far, let us know what we missed in the comments!
If a long walk isn't your cup of tea, nearly every hostel and guesthouse can rent you a bicycle! This would turn a couple of hours walk into a much shorter affair!
Walking South / East
The riverbank is popular with everyone!
Back at the Naga Statue in central Nakhon Phanom, the walking path and bike trail also heads south / east. Along this section you will find some incredible riverfront temples (we will go into more detail in a moment) as well as great coffee shops and a plethora of yummy riverside eateries. It is also along this stretch that street food and drink stalls will set up each night. This section of the river is almost like a park; wide and tree-lined with riverfront seating and separate cycle and walking lanes. When the food and coffee vendors arrive, they set up their kitchens in and around their roadside vans and their seating spills out onto the lawns and pathways. Its a really chilled out place in the evening and a lovely area to have a twilight stroll.
The Golden Naga - Phaya Si Satta Nakharat
(location)
You really cannot miss Nakhon Phanom's most famous monument. Towering over the riverfront, at the town's main crossroads sits a coiled golden Naga; its seven open-mouthed heads staring out across the Mekong. This enormous and beautiful brass statue venerates and celebrates the local Naga spirit that is believed to watch over the river. The name Phaya Si Satta Nakharat apparently translates to "Naga King" - at least according to Google Translate, others state it is "King of the Seven Headed Nagas". Every day jets will fire a fountain of water from the statues mouth and around its base and neck, locals burn incense and leave garlands of flowers.
What is a Naga?
Naga are mythical creatures popular in Buddhist folklore. The origin of the Naga can be found in Indian Hindu mythology, where it describes a half human half cobra. In South East Asian Buddhism the Naga has added significance. Usually depicted as having multiple heads, the Naga crops up a few times in Buddhist tales. In one story it shields the meditating Buddha from a storm, in another a Naga is converted by the Buddha and becomes the guardian of all temples. This is why you will see their statues at temple gates or running along the roof spines.
Just behind the Naga statue is a small park, its trellises and climbing plants groomed into the shape of the arching tail of the Naga, it is a nice addition to the riverfront and a good place to cool off in the shade. After dark the park and statue are illuminated and look amazing!
We were lucky and visited Nakhon Phanom just as renovation work on the Naga statue was being completed. There was a mini festival happening to commemorate the reopening and the riverfront next to the brass Naga was full of offerings, monks and people praying. Thailand's Buddhist celebrations are always so colourful, so full of flowers and saffron garlands. Every year in early July, there is a festival dedicated to celebrating the Naga river spirit.
The Naga offering table was amazing - Look at those flower displays!
Underneath the Naga, down a flight of stairs, is a community space / arcade full of local craft stores, coffee and ice cream shops as well as a couple of food stalls, all with views out over the river.
Riverfront Temples
A short walk to the east / south of the Naga statue are a string of beautiful temples: Wat Pho Si Phra Thong is the first one we encountered with a beautiful ornate drum tower and shining white, red and gold buildings.
A little further along the river is Wat Mahathat, which houses a beautiful white-gold chedi surrounded by shining golden statues. It also has multi-coloured (nearly rainbow) Nagas in a garden around a jade Buddha.
Lastly (at least on our walk, we are sure there are more!), was Wat Phra in Plaeng a stunning green and gold temple full of mythical statues. Serpent tailed people and the bird footed Kinnara guard the temple from evil spirits. All of the temples are unique and well worth a visit.
As with any temple dress appropriately and respect your surroundings.
Temples in Thailand are endlessly varied but always offer a calm respite from the outside world.
Sunset Cruises on the Mekong
(location) - There are lots of operators all along this stretch. Read on for our thoughts and reccomendations.
This sounds cheesy but was actually one of our favourite things we did in Nakhon Phanom. We liked it so much we actually did it twice! As the afternoon faded down we would make our way to the riverfront (to the left (west / north) of the Naga statue) and board a little white and blue ferry. For a couple of hours it would swan up and down the Mekong taking in the sunset whilst providing drinks and snacks.
It was actually really fun! We were the only Westerners on board so were instantly adopted by friendly families out on a jolly. We would grab a couple of reasonably priced cans of Leo from the onboard bar and establish ourselves on one of the open air tables upstairs. The boat would then leisurely float away, past all the sights on the riverside, drift across to the Laotian side of the river before finally settling down to watch a fiery Mekong sunset.
It was a brilliant way to see out a day. The boat sets off in daylight and comes back once the sun has completely gone. It is fantastic to float on the Mekong watching the sun burn down the day and then see the lights from the river cities sparkle into life.
All this for the incredibly cheap price of 50 baht per person! Seriously you have no excuse not to give this a go, it is so cheap and such a nice way to start an evening.
Sunsets on the Mekong - not a bad way to end a day!
There are lots of different operators at wildly varying levels of luxury and price. You could spend a lot more then we did and enjoy live music and dinner aboard a boat but, honestly, we don't really think our cheap and cheerful cruise can be improved on. It was just the right length of time: not rushed but not long enough for us to get bored. The wholes experience was charming and utterly unpretentious. A few months later, we found ourselves on the other side of the river in Thakhek and were very happy to see our little blue and white ferry gliding past.
Nakhon Phanom's Weekend Walking Street Night Market
(location) - The map pin is a part of the Walking Street. It actually extends all the way up and down the riverfront promenade.
Open Friday - Sunday from 5pm onwards
Ok, honesty time: We did not go to the famous weekend Walking Street. Why? Because we didn't visit over a weekend! In hindsight this was a massive oversight and mistake for us. We didn't appreciate how big of a walking street, or how famous Nakhon Phanom's weekend night market was.
It is clearly huge; all along the riverfront we could see where the market would sprawl. There were booth markings hundreds of metres up and down the Mekong walking trail. Inside the town there were large market areas set up and waiting for food courts. The whole of the riverfront would come alive with stalls, sellers, sizzling food and crafts. It would all burst into life...just after we left...
Don't be like us, plan ahead and visit over the weekend so you don't miss the market! If this is not possible, don't despair (ok, despair a little), there are other markets and street-food to enjoy.
Daily Riverfront Night Market
(location) -No specific place; the stalls will spread out all along the riverfront either side of the Naga Statue.
Just because its not the weekend doesn't mean that there is no night-time food or stalls to visit! Every day there will be impromptu shops, portable restaurants and coffee vans parking up and unfolding along the Nakhon Phanom riverfront.
To the left (north / west) of the Naga Statue a small market unpacks its wares every evening. When we visited it was mainly selling clothes, bags and fashion accessories. Outside the 7-11 barbecue stands would fire up their grills and everywhere carts selling what we call "stuff-on-a-stick" cuisine, trundled up and down.
To the right (south / east) of the bronze serpent is the parkland riverfront. Along here small barbecue, hotpot and dessert vans will transform into little campsite restaurants. The walking paths and green spaces filling up with camp chairs, gas barbecues and families.
Nakhon Phanom’s riverfront is simultaneously buzzing and laid back.
The Morning Market
(location)
If you are looking for some proper breakfast or just (like us) love the hustle and bustle of a Thai market, then you should definitely head over to Nakhon Phanom's Municipal Food Market (catchy name isn't it!).
This is a proper local market, a huge covered hall selling everything an Isan household may want. In the mornings it is alive with fresh produce. Fruit and vegetables of every shape and colour spill out of baskets and roll from tables. Meat so fresh it was walking that morning is joined by every kind of fish imaginable. It is a great way of getting a feel for local ingredients.
It is also a great place to pick up some food! You will not get fresher than a market food stall!
Indochina Market
(location)
This small market specialised in imported goods from China and Laos. Much like its larger brother in Nong Khai, the Tha Sadet Market (read about it here), the Indochina market has an eclectic mix of fashion, nick-nacks, temple offerings, clothes and pretty much anything else you can imagine. It seems to cater to the Thai tourists rather than the locals but that is to be expected in Nakhon Phanom.
There is a small food court attached (just around the back), but it was never open when we visited. Let us know in the comments if this has changed!
Colonial Architecture - the Governor's Residence and the Courthouse
(Governor's Residence location)
(Old Courthouse location)
Along the riverfront are a few decidedly Western looking buildings. The former governors residence and the old courthouse bear all the hallmarks of French colonial architecture. Thailand, famously, has never been colonised by any of the Western powers. Through clever diplomacy and shrewd manoeuvring, Thailand has remained free of Western colonialism.
It hasn't however, avoided the architecture. The influence of French building styles has seeped across the river from Thakhkek and into Nakhon Phanom. The building are, to be fair, very pretty and have now been turned into museums and displays. The courthouse is mainly empty but a great example of the mixing of architectural styles. The former Governor's Residence is a local museum with recreated period rooms and displays on the areas history.
The museum is open every day except Mondays and Tuesdays.
Opening hours are: 9:00 - 16:00
Ticket Price - Free when we visited
St. Anne's Cathedral
(location)
You cannot mention Western architecture or influence in Nakhon Phanom without talking about the massive cathedral that sits on the river banks!
Built in 1952 St Anne's is technically a "co-cathedral" as it shares its Bishops Seat with the Cathedral of St Micheal the Archangel nearby to Sakhon Nakhon. St Anne's towers over all the other buildings on the riverfront with two white towers pointing skywards.
We didn't go inside (it has school attached and both times we walked past it was flooded with children), but it is very striking from the outside, as much for its out-of-place-ness as for its actual features. The cathedral also looks lovely at sunset and, later on, when it is lit up after dark.
Vietnam Town and the Memorial Clocktower
As we mentioned in the "History" section, Nakhon Phanom has a large Vietnamese population. We are happy to report that they brought their food! Vietnam Town is studded with fantastic eateries for those looking to branch out from the (delicious in its own right) Thai and Isan cuisines. You cannot really go wrong in little Vietnam / Vietnam Town, but for our food recommendations see the "What to Eat" section later. Also, it would be a crime not to grab a cup of Vietnamese coffee when you have a chance!
On the border of Vietnam Town, nearby to the riverfront is a large ornate clocktower, similar to the ones you can find in Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi in Vietnam. This is the Vietnamese Memorial Clocktower. Built in the 1960's it is a memorial and thank you to the Thai people and King for welcoming the Vietnamese into Nakhon Phanom when they needed shelter. It is a nighttime hub now - the crossroads around it have some brilliant places to eat and it always seems busy after dark.
Ho Chi Minh House and Museum
(location)
Speaking of Vietnam, perhaps its most famous son once called Nakhon Phanom home. Ho Chi Minh lived in a modest house around 5km from central Nakhon Phanom for seven years of his life. You can visit today by walking (well over an hour through main roads and suburbia - we wouldn't recommend this for reasons that will soon become apparent), or by taking a short Grab Taxi.
We rolled up one sunny afternoon and really enjoyed the beautiful gardens and restored house. There are artifacts and histories from Ho Chi Minh's time in Thailand as well as old style farm and gardening equipment and kitchens. It is a very small museum / house but we really enjoyed our quick visit.
We had planned on walking the short way down the road to the proper Ho Chi Minh Museum of Nakhon Phanom (you can see it here), however, we quickly encountered a problem. The houses and nearby museum are in a residential area, a residential area that apparently enjoys keeping large packs of very territorial dogs around. Also, the gates to most of the houses are left open.
Our bravery does not extend to angry dog packs so we got another Grab back into town. We are a little annoyed at ourselves for not just being brave and trying it, but we also are dog-bite free, so ......
Learn from our mistakes and ask your Grab to hang around whilst you go to Ho Chi Minh's House, they can ferry you past the loud canines to the museum. If you have rented a scooter this would be no issue at all as you could just breeze past the barkers. Let us know in the comments what we missed!
Explore - Nakhon Phanom and the Surrounding Countryside
One of our favourite things to do is just to get out and wander. You never know what you might find. Thailand and its towns and cities are safe and endlessly entertaining to walk around. Nakhon Phanom is no different, we would just pick a direction and go, encountering street food, small shrines, temples and a multitude of other one-off experiences.
When we visited Nakhon Phanom the Chinese Opera was in town. A whole section outside of a temple had been turned into a theatre (around here). During the day flat bed trucks would drive around town with acrobats and contortionists in their pickups, advertising that night's performance. As the evening loomed we would see performers in their amazing costumes doing their make-up on the riverside. It is always worth having a walk and seeing what you find in Thailand.
You never know what you might find in a Thai city - The Chinese Opera company was an unexpected treat.
Phu Langka National Park
Outside of the city, about an hour to the north by car is the Phu Langka National Park. This is number one on our "Next Time" list as it looks stunning. The park has hiking trails, waterfalls and the famous Naga Cave. Some of the sites look like they require a guide to access, so check before you go! If you do go, make us jealous in the comments and tell us what it is like.
Isan as a whole is a treasure box of unique experiences, if you have transport it is well worth just going out and exploring. We have travelled all along the Isan banks of the Mekong (as well as all along the Laotian side), and followed the trainline into the heart of the region. There is so much to see and do that is not listed on Google or to be found in the Lonely Planet - get out and explore!
What to Eat in Sakhon Nakon - The Best Restaurants, Coffee Shops and Street Food
Ok enough foreplay, we have teased you throughout this article with how great the food in Nakhon Phanom is, now it is time to deliver! From authentic banh mi and pho from Vietnam Town to Isan som tam and Laotian laab there is so much deliciousness on offer in Nakhon Phanom. We are not only voracious foodies but also committed caffiene-holics. Luckily, there was plenty of coffee based brilliance to be found in town.
This is our recommendations for what to eat and drink in Nakhon Phanom. If we have missed your favourite, let us know in the comments!
ต้มเส้นหอนาฬิกา - Clocktower Pork Noodles
(location)
A good rule of thumb when deciding on dinner is to go wherever is busy with locals. That is exactly how we ended up here. After one of our sunset boat cruises we were looking for our supper and stumbled upon this small, but incredibly busy, noodle shop. There is a reason it is busy! We chowed down on two bowls of incredible noodles. The noodles were thin, floury and with the perfect chew and bite. The noodles swam in a peppery broth alongside a plethora of pork products. Meatballs, pork loaf and Viet style pork sausage all melded together with deep fried garlic and fresh herbs to produce a delicious bowl.
It was also very cheap at 50 baht per serving!
They also served all the usual Isan style thai salads (raw prawn, clams etc) as well as a choice of noodles and toppings.
ราชาบะหมี่กวางตุ้งนครพนม - Crispy Pork Noodles
(location)
Another bowl of porky paradise. This was your typical Thai noodle joint. They are everywhere and they are nearly always excellent!
We are weak people, we cannot resist moo krob - Thai crispy pork belly. Known in China as "7 layers of heaven", these little shards alternate between roasted pork meat and meltingly soft fat. Their (literal) crowning glory however is their crackling, bubbly, crunchy and completely addictive.
With this in mind it is no surprise that we ordered and loved our bowls of mee (yellow egg noodles) with moo krob and moo daeng (red roast pork). They had every texture you could dream of in a bowl of noodles and the table-supplied chilli flakes and vinegar set off the dish perfectly.
Like our previous nights noodles, the crispy pork bowls were very reasonably priced at only 50 baht per bowl.
An Jao Egg Pan - Vietnamese Breakfast Noodles
(location)
We don't just eat noodle soups we promise! But, who could turn down another bowl of loveliness? Not us it turns out. An Jao specialises in Vietnamese food, it is right in the heart of Viet Town and is one of the most popular breakfast spots in the city.
We ordered two bowls of guay jap (rolled rice noodle soup), extra poached eggs and two Vietnamese coffees. The coffee was like sugary rocket fuel, just as it should be! The noodle soup was peppery and perfect, filling and flavourful. It was just what we needed to gear up and prepare us for a full days exploration. It was a breakfast feast and only cost us 90 baht per person.
An Jao also serves the Vietnamese favourite (although we have had it all over Asia) pan eggs. The dish is simple, start with a pan, roaring hot from the burners, and add eggs. After that it is up to you and the chef. Add Chinese or Viet sausage, soy or minced pork; anything can go into a pan eggs - We have had it in Laos with beef and potatoes! If you can resist noodle soups, pan eggs are a great breakfast.
อรุณข้าวมันไก่ & ร้านเฮียเปียว ก๋วยเตี๋ยว-ข้าวมันไก่ ถนนศรีเทพ - Chicken Rice
(location) Modern Style
(location) Street Style
We love chicken rice, from Singapore, through Malaysia to Vietnam and Thailand it is a dish we always seek out. If you haven't tried it, you are in for a treat. Chicken rice is cheap, delicious and sure to convert even the most fussy of travellers. Rice is cooked in chicken fat, stock, ginger and aromats until it is perfectly infused with flavour. The rice is then topped with chicken, either fried or boiled. Traditionally the boiled variety comes with a ginger sauce and the fried chicken will be paired with sweet chilli. Both the sauces are great so we would say, get a half-half plate and enjoy both!
Luckily, in Thailand and Nakhon Phanom chicken rice is everywhere. We had two fantastic plates in two different styles of restaurant.
The modern style restaurant is nearby to the riverfront and clocktower and may even be a chain. Nevertheless, it served up fantastic crispy fried chicken over incredibly tasty rice. It was good, cheap and the portions were decently sized.
Our second chicken rice escapade (we sometimes like it for breakfast, don't judge us!) was a much more traditional affair. A small street side eatery with metal tables near to the town's larger 7-11. This little hole in the wall had the friendliest ladies working and they put out some brilliant chicken rice. It was also very backpacker budget friendly; we spent 45 baht per plate here, which is unbeatable value! We ordered the boiled chicken and the sauce it came with was just mwah! - overdramatic chefs kiss.
Krua Ya Taen, ครัวย่าแตน - Riverside Rice and Curry
(location)
If you have read any of our other blogs, you will know how much we love rice and curry. Whether we at a warung in Indonesia, of a buffet in Sri Lanka, we love having a spread of curries to mix and match. Nakhon Phanom has a fantastic little rice and curry joint right opposite the Naga statue at the centre of the towns riverfront.
Listed on Google as a Vietnamese restaurant, Krua Ya Taen has a mini-but-mighty selection of daily curries on display at the back of the restaurant. Available over rice or khanom jeen (fermented rice noodles), the curries change daily but are always spicy and delicious. Curry buffets are a great place to break away from the "standard" Thai food; just order something you know you will like (a mild, red pork curry for example) and pair it with a new dish you haven't tried yet (we always recommend bitter melon and egg as a gateway dish!), this way you will get to expand your taste horizons without putting all your eggs in one basket! For a real backpacker hack: if you are a travelling as a couple or a group, order differently from each other so you can try even more plates!
Krua Ya Taen is cheap, delicious and a genuine taste of the area.
The Banh Mi Man
(location) - No Google listing, his van is usually parked up between Krua Ya Taen and the immigration office
Another great example of Nakhon Phanom’s cultural mix parks its van next to the rice and curry buffet every day. For 50 baht you can grab a fresh, Laotian/Viet style banh mi sandwich, its bread toasted over hot coals right in front of you. These made a great 'grab and go' meal, just be warned, they are addictive!
Som Tam WiFi, ส้มตำ WiFi สาขานครพนม - A Perfect Isan Dinner
(location)
Isan would not be Isan with out barbecue. Everywhere you go you will see the rotating charcoal spits and smell the enticing aroma of the charing marinades. We wanted a proper Isan feast of a meal so did a little research. Both our research and our favourite YouTuber, agreed on Som Tam Wifi being the perfect choice.
It was.
You cannot go wrong with barbecue but this placed showed us just how right you could be! We went for what the menu called barbecued pork neck. Juicy and sweet with the perfect char and skin, it was everything you could want. We paired it with a sharp, spicy som tam (we went for corn - you have to try it!) and a Laotian style laab (minced meat and herb "salad"). The rich, fatty meat was balanced out by the spicy som tam and fresh herbs in the laab. The whole meal was perfect, just what we had set out to find. It was also very cheap, the whole feast only costing around 250 baht!
Generous Beef Pho
(location) - No Google listing but it was somewhere around here, just look out for the modest shopfront and the wafting smell of beef pho!
After a wander around the nearby market we were in need of a feed. We did what we always do and stopped in the first place that smelled nice and had locals sitting down. This lead us to two of the most generous bowls of beef pho we have had outside of Hanoi.
We arrived right at the end of the morning rush and the wonderful owner of the place kept coming back to give us more meat and other tid-bits to try.
The pho was fantastic, rich yet light, powerful yet still, somehow, delicate. The extra beef, beef curry and beef balls were just added yummy bonuses!
Street Stalls and Market Eating
(location) - Everywhere! As we have mentioned, even when it is not the weekend the riverfront is alive with pop up street food stalls.
On the Naga's left you will find hot pots, salad stalls, ice creams and coffee all served from vans parked along the riverfront park.
To the right of the statue you will find roving barbecue stalls, stuff on stick vendors and other more mobile offerings.
For morning market eating, aim to get to the morning market in the ... morning! It sounds obvious but we rocked up at 9:30 and found it was really quietening down!
Bars and Sit Down Restaurants
There are sooo many good places for food and drink in Nakhon Phanom. All along the riverfront are awesome bars which will also serve you your dinner. We had a couple of cheeky Leos at TioTemTok and this looked like it would have been a great night out if we were up on a wild one! Further down the riverfront are loads of bars with outsides facing the Mekong. We reckon that these would be electric at the weekend!
If you are looking for a quirky craft beer bar in Nakhon Phanom we recommend ร้านเธย์ คราฟเบียร์บาร์ (find it here). We cannot pronounce the name but the owner and bar staff were fantastic and it was a great night out.
Lets just say they had quite a selection at the craft beer bar!
Another good choice for beer and a river view is ชิวกะวิว@Rim Kong (find it here). We had a few beers here one evening; it was chilled and fun. The food also looked amazing and it does live music even when it is not the weekend!
Coffee in Nakhon Phanom
There is plenty of choice when it comes to bean-based-brews. Nakhon Phanom has a booming cafe and craft coffee scene. Everything from cutesy cafe's to rugged coffee vans can be found on the cities streets. These are just three of our favourites.
Pop Cafe
(location)
A very stylish and cute coffee shop in the middle of the town. We had some fantastic lattes and treated ourselves to a very naughty banoffee pie here. The lattes were properly good, bitter but not too much, milky but not to excess, just the right blend!
Banoffee pie is never optional…
กาแฟสดรถตู้ - Peace Coffee Van
(location) - He moves around and can be anywhere along the riverside park
Coffee from a van is nothing new for us, we had already enjoyed fantastic van created coffees from the Wizard in Nong Khai. The Peace Van (our name, again our Thai isn't up to pronouncing its proper name!), serves great, rocket fuel coffee. Ellie opted for her signature "orange and black": fresh squeezed orange juice and a shot of espresso over ice. It is possibly the most perfect drink on a hot day and the Peace Van made us a corker of a cup!
Cafe De Kong
(location)
If you have done the 4km walk or cycle along the banks of the Mekong, this cafe is the perfect pick-me-up. Set inside the Naval base it is staffed by wives and relatives of the enlisted men and serves up brilliant coffee with a view! The upstairs is a wooden veranda built over the roof and around a neighbouring tree. The veranda has a great view out onto the Mekong, perfect for cooling down with and iced latte!
Where to Stay - Accommodation in Nakhon Phanom
The city is a popular tourist destination for Thai travellers and, as such, has loads of great accommodation on offer. From high end hotels to cheap and cheerful guesthouses there is a bed no matter your budget.
SP Residence
(location)
It isn’t glamorous but it is clean, roomy, comfy and great value - We would definitely stay again!
SP Residence was our choice for our stay in Nakhon Phanom. Centrally located with large comfortable rooms at a backpacker appropriate price - What more could we ask for!?!
SP has bikes to rent, parking for cars or scooters, free tea and coffee in the mornings and loads of information and maps for the local area.
Check out the rooms here.
Landmark Hotel
If you are not budget backpacking then you might want a little more luxury in your life. The Landmark Hotel is in the best possible location in Nakhon Phanom; facing the Naga statue and riverfront in the heart of the town.
We (obviously) didn't stay here but it was the only place we saw other Western tourists in the whole town, the bakery and restaurant downstairs looked great and the Parisian style cafe seating outside and balconies have great views.
Have a look for yourself here.
All Accommodation Choices in Nakhon Phanom
If you want to have a birds-eye overview of all of the cities hotels and guesthouses, check out our handy map below. You can zoom in or out and filter by your dates and needs:
Where is Nakhon Phanom and How Do You Get There and Where do you Go Afterwards?
Location - Where is Nakhon Phanom
Nakhon Phanom is the provincial capital of the Nakhon Phanom district. It is located in the far north-east of Isan, eastern Thailand. It is around 730km away from Bangkok and sits on the Mekong river opposite the Laotian city of Thakhek.
You can find Nakhon Phanom city on a map here.
Nakhon Phanom is well connected both within Thailand and to its neighbouring city of Thakhek in Laos.
Getting there - From Thailand
If you are within Thailand there are loads of buses that can take you to Nakhon Phanom. Just head to your local bus station - every town has one. The bus station is always one of our first ports of call in a new city, just to see where and when we can go next! Even if the bus does not go directly to Nakhon Phanom they will be able to route you there.
If you are in Bangkok and looking for a bus to Nakhon Phanom, go to the enormous Mo Chit 2 Bus Station. If you are in Chiang Mai head to Bus terminal 3. The bus ride from Bangkok takes around 12 hours and the ride from Chiang Mai is a whopping 15 hours.
Alternatively, if you want to book in advance, check out 12Go for all the transport options:
12Go will not show all of the available buses, but is handy if you want to secure a seat in advance - follow the links to se more options!
Thai - Laos Friendship Bridge - Thakhek, Laos to Nakhon Phanom
The Third Thai / Lao border is only 14 km from the centre of Nakhon Phanom. The bridge is an official border crossing point between Laos and Thailand and will bring you out next to the Laotian city of Thakhek.
You can easily catch a bus that will take you all the way across the border; just head to Thakhek's International bus station, (located here). There are several buses a day (it looks like 4 at the moment) starting around 8am and running until around 5pm. You cannot, apparently, book these online so either head to the bus station yourself or ask your accommodation for help booking one. The bus should take you all the way to Nakhon Phanom's main bus station located here. You can also do this journey in reverse if you are looking to hop from Thailand into Laos.
You have to take a bus or drive across the border bridge, you can't just wander across! If you have made your way to the border point without a bus, then there should be a dedicated bus at the border to shuttle you across the bridge for a small fee. Once on the other side there will be plenty of tuk tuk's, taxi's and songthaew to ferry you into town.
The border opening times are listed as open everyday from 6am until 10pm. Like any border crossing leave plenty of time, you will need to be stamped out of Laos and then into Thailand.
If you are coming into Laos, please be aware: At the moment you cannot use the e-visa to enter Laos at the Third Thai-Laos Friendship bridge. Confusing, as you can at bridges one, two and four!
Where Should you Go After Nakhon Phanom
More Isan Adventures
We are really trying to show you the lesser known regions of Thailand. Isan is a beautiful, massive and, at the moment, a less travelled area of the country. Isan is absolutely stuffed full of fantastic things to discover and see.
You could continue your Isan exploration from Nakhon Phanom by going:
North to Bueng Kan with its incredible Three Whale Rock and the spiderweb walkways of Wat Phu Tok. Or, further on, there is the riverside border town of Nong Khai, with its viewpoints and the bizarrely beautiful Buddha Park.
South to Mukdahan, another relatively unknown (to the West at least), Isan gem. A fantastic city with a phenomenal hilltop temple and bustling local markets.
Into the interior of Isan: Sakhon Nakhon, Udon Thani or Khon Kaen. All of which are treasure troves of fantastic sights, foods and amazing people - more on these to come, when we have written it!
You really should check out our articles of what you can see around Bueng Kan!
Bangkok
There are daily buses back to the Thai capital. The bus journey will take around 12 hours, so we would recommend travelling overnight if possible.
If a 12 hour bus ride just isn't your scene then, for not a huge amount more money, you can catch a flight from Nakhon Phanom's local airport. The flight to Bangkok only takes around an hour and there a few flights daily (depending on the season).
You can check both options here.
Chiang Mai
If you are looking to head north to Chiang Mai there are a couple of overnight buses available from Nakhon Phanom. The journey is a long one at 15 hours. For us this isn't a problem, Thai buses are nearly always comfy, clean and give you food and blankets.
You can fly from Nakhon Phanoms airport to Chaing Mai but it does cost quite a bit more than the bus and requires you to change planes in Bangkok! That being said it does save you a lot of time; it takes the travel day from 15ish hours down to around 4.
To check out flights and buses to Chiang Mai click here.
Laos
If you are looking at Laos then you can head over to Thakhek or challenge yourself to the beautiful Thakhek Loop. Honestly, we cannot recommend the Loop, or its sister adventure - the Bolaven / Pakse Loop enough; they are some of the most amazing things we have done so far! From the north to the south, Laos is stunningly beautiful; make sure you check out all our guides here.
If you are entering Laos from Nakhon Phanom over the Friendship bridge border, remember that you cannot use the Laotian E-Visa at this crossing. It is the only friendship bridge that doesn't use the E-Visa so do not get caught out. You can still get a Visa on Arrival (depending on your home country) at the border.
Conclusion - Is Nakhon Phanom worth your time?
... seriously... you're going to ask that? Ok, well it is our website so technically we asked "that" but all the same - YES Nakhon Phanom is worth visiting, we cannot wait to go back!
We had high hopes when we booked our bus to Nakhon Phanom but they were all blown out of the water by reality; it is just endlessly charming! From the craft coffee shops to the river cruises, the history to the food, Nakhon Phanom is simply a fantastic town. It made an ideal "rest town" amongst our other Isan explorations; most of the things to see are only a walk or bike ride away from the main town. We really relaxed into its riverfront, holiday vibes and easy-going restaurants, bars and cafes. The food was varied and delicious, the multiple culinary influences transmuted into something deliciously new and yet definitely Thai.
There is no stand out "must see attraction", no popular Insta spot or dramatic viewpoint to pull tourists to Nakhon Phanom, it is an undercover delight!
Those in the know go, so should you.
Thanks for reading.
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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