Sakon Nakhon City and Town Travel Guide
In a region studded with secrets and surprises, Sakon Nakhon was a real unexpected treat. The city sits in the heart of Isan, Thailand’s vast northeastern region. Sakon Nakhon sits on the shores of Nong Han Lake, the waters of which holds a sacred island and dotted all around the city are ancient ruins, colonial architecture, one of a kind temples and unique Isan experiences.
The city is a smorgasbord of delicious, authentic foods, chic coffee shops and vibrant markets. Despite all of the above, Sakon Nakhon has been completely slept on by Western tourists. It’s not on the “banana pancake” trail and despite all the things to see and do, Sakon Nakhon is seldom visited and very rarely features on any Western tourists Thai itinerary. This is sure to change, with travellers getting more savy and the amount of things to see and do, Sakon Nakhon won’t remain unknown for long! We’re here to show you why you should beat the rush and come and see Sakon Nakhon now.
Sakon Nakhon (AKA Sakhon Nakhon - spelling can be fluid in Isan) is the name of both the lakeside city and the larger province.
This is our guide about what to do in and around the city of Sakon Nakhon. For our complete guide to the province of Sakon Nakhon, click here.
In This Sakon Nakhon City Guide
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What To Do In Sakon Nakhon City
Sakhon Nakhon city is a perfect example of what we love; an unknown quantity. What is there to do? What will we find?
Sprawling away from the southern shoreline of Nong Han Lake, the city is full of history and contrasts. Sleek modern coffee shops rub shoulders with intricate temple gates, white and gold stupas tower over veteran street vendors and huge shopping malls stand like giants opposite neon lit market stalls.
What we found in Sakon Nakhon was a city full of things to see, do and explore. Read on to find out how to fill your time in this Isan city.
Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan
(location)
Perhaps Sakon Nakhon’s most famous attraction, Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan (try saying that quickly) more than lives up to its fame.
A vast stone tiled courtyard is polished to a mirror sheen and reflects the sparkling mosaics and golden glass encrusted walls of this beautiful temple.
The temple is said to have been constructed on a site where four different incarnations of the Buddha once walked and is the heart and soul of Sakon Nakhon city.
The temple buildings are spectacular, intricate, flamboyant and beautiful. With coloured glass, gold leaf and golden statues covering their walls and ceilings. Outside, the spectacle continues with a majestic white and gold chedi and the arched entrances to the temple all mirrored with shining tiles. These temple archways are in themselves an architectural marvel with layer upon layer of spiked gold carvings, rising like a Thai crown above their lintels.
Framing the temple's main building right at the heart of the complex, a golden naga statue rears up in front of a white pillar, itself crowned with four lions.
Outside, the wat is guarded by a row of stone “Foo Lion’s”. These dog-like guardians stand in lily ponds, the water reflecting their white and gold forms.
The temple is, as we hope we made clear, stunning! All the usual Thai temple rules apply; dress appropriately, be respectful and remove shoes before entering. There is parking to the right and left of the temple and plenty of shops surrounding the outside to pick up trinkets, souvenirs and snacks from.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: Open everyday from 6 AM until 10 PM. During festival times and public holidays, the temple may get very busy!
Sakon Nakhon Walking Street - The Indigo Market
(location)
Sakon Nakhon is known for its indigo dyes. Traditionally made from bark and other naturally occurring ingredients, this blue dye has seen a modern resurgence in popularity. Local artisans dye, weave and tailor clothing and you can see everyone from local teenagers to traditionally dressed grannies wearing the indigo patterns and fabrics.
The Weekend Walking Street focuses on selling this local speciality to residents and Thai tourists alike. From full dresses to little key chains, there’ll be a little indigo souvenir for everyone.
The market runs along the street outside of Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan. It’s not the biggest Walking Street in the world but it's well worth a nose around if you’re visiting over a weekend, especially if you’re looking for some unique clothes or just want to see the temple lit up at night.
The market has a couple of street food stalls and the whole street has plenty of sit down restaurants and coffee shops.
Don’t miss the colourful street art painted on the walls and alleyways all around!
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: Saturday and Sunday from 3 PM to 8 PM. Get there early - it’s more of an afternoon market than a night market.
Phu Phan Museum And Planetarium
(location)
Built on the shores of Nong Han Lake, the Phu Phan museum is a tale of two halves.
On one side, the small planetarium is stuffed full of exhibits about the solar system, the Apollo 11 Moon landing and other spacey facts.
“That’s one small step for…”
The second half of the museum couldn’t be more different. Built around a giant dharma wheel, the museum splits off into different buildings with exhibits about the history, culture and peoples of Sakon Nakhon. The main focus seems to be on the Buddhist history of the region.
Outside, the museum and planetarium look a little forlorn with an old playground that seems to have fallen on hard times. Don’t let this put you off, the staff were super friendly and the astronomical and spiritual side to the museum were interesting and fun to explore. Just be aware on the spiritual side of things, most of the information will only be in Thai.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: Open everyday from 9 AM until 4:30 PM. Closed on Sundays.
City Pillar Shrine - Phratu Mueang Sakon Nakhon
(location)
Sitting straddling the city's main roundabout you really cannot miss Sakon Nakhon’s city pillar shrine. Standing like a Thai ‘Arc De Triomphe’ the gold crowned plinth is surrounded by flowering gardens and houses a carved circular stone.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: All the time, 24 hours a day.
Thai City Pillars
Thai City Pillars or Lak Mueang can be found in nearly every Thai town and city and can be seen as the spiritual locus of the area. These pillars are believed to be the home of the city's “spirit” and were born from a mix of Hindu and Buddhist culture and religion. Today, locals gather to leave offerings and pray at the pillars.
Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Park
(location)
Built just off Nong Han lake, Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Park was a colourful green oasis in the centre of Sakon Nakhon. Built around a massive ornamental lake, there are loads of gardens, flower beds, lawns and lakeside views. For those more active than us, there is a large cycling and running track that runs all around the lake and headland. We liked visiting here as a break of green and calm from the city's streets.
There is scooter parking at the entrance.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: From dawn until dusk.
Sakon Nakhon Clock Tower
(location)
Sakon Nakhon’s pink stone clock tower sits in the heart of a busy intersection on one of the main roads leading into the city. The carved clock tower rises up out of a Buddhist style, temple base and on all sides, sit golden Buddha statues.
The clock tower isn’t worth a trip in itself, but if you’re in the area it’s worth a quick look. The area is full of small eateries and close to our favourite coffee shop, Sniff Coffee (more on this later).
Take a boat to Don Sawan Sacred Island
(location)
As always we’re honest on this blog and we did not actually do this. The sacred island of Don Sawan is a pilgrimage and tourist spot for visiting Buddhists. Sitting in the middle of Nong Han Lake, the island is host to a series of shrines and temples, some ancient, some more modern.
The island is the focal point of many local legends and can get quite busy during festivals and holidays.
To catch a boat and visit the island, head here.
Entrance fee: 100 baht per person but you will need to fill the boat (500 baht minimum).
Opening times: Open everyday from 8 AM until 6 PM.
Freshwater Fish Aquarium
(location)
Another one of the things we didn’t do, this is a small aquarium dedicated to the lake and river fish found in the area. We didn’t do this ourselves, but if you go, let us know in the comments what we missed.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: Monday to Friday, 8:30 AM until 4 PM. Closed on weekends.
Kasetsart University Lotus and Waterlily Park
(location)
We don’t know what we expected but it certainly wasn’t this! After a short scooter ride from town, around to the north of Nong Han Lake, we found ourselves in a nondescript carpark near to the university. This was Kasetsart University Lotus and Waterlily Park.
A huge ornamental lake speckled with lotus flowers and ribboned with curving walkways spread out in front of us. The calm surface of the lake was like a mirror reflecting the sky and lotus blooms above. On the lake there were pagodas, clusters of students enjoying photoshoots and, dominating everything, was a huge, pure white naga.
The giant naga statue sits coiled and vigilant overlooking its lily-strewn domain. In front and in contrast to its pure monochrome body, was a colourful shrine full of incense and offerings.
The park is much larger than just the waterlilies. There are gardens, an alligator farm / research outpost as well as model farming and university agriculture projects. It’s an amazing park and a great place to walk around.
There are a few shops and snack vendors in the carpark as well as toilets on-site.
It also makes the ideal stop off if you’re on your way to…
Entrance fee: Free
Opening times: Monday to Friday, 8:30 AM until 4:30 PM, weekends 8:30 AM until 6 PM
Tha Rae Village and St Michael’s Cathedral
(location)
Hugging the northern shore of Nong Han Lake is Sakon Nakhon’s most famous village, Tha Rae Village. This little enclave is full of stunning French colonial style architecture, some elegantly decaying and some beautifully preserved.
We found a spot to park our bike and set off down this little slice of what to us, looked like New Orleans. We wandered the old main street, sauntered down picturesque alleyways full of street art and admired the towering colonial style buildings.
Tha Rae Village is home to one of Thailand’s largest Catholic communities (at least by percentage of population), the descendants of refugees and Catholics from neighbouring countries. This little commune boasts phenomenal architecture and a large modernist cathedral, St Michael’s Cathedral - the co-cathedral to St Anne’s in Nakhon Phanom. It’s especially famous around Christmas time for its brightly lit Christmas parade which has given the area its name “Land of Stars”.
Most of the old architecture is focussed around the main street of the village, with French style mansions complete with shuttered windows, arched colonnades and balconies. If you’re in need of a coffee, don’t miss the coffee shop located on the ground floor of one of the mansions. We had two delicious lattes which were the perfect pick-me-up to continue a full day of exploring.
You can also walk to the shoreline of the lake for a very pretty view. Whilst we were there, it was full of buffalo grazing on the lakeside greenery.
If you visit around lunchtime there are plenty of Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai street food stalls and restaurants.
Entrance fee: Free
Circumnavigate Nong Han Lake
(location)
The city of Sakon Nakhon sits on the southern edge of the enormous Nong Han Lake. This huge lake is one of the largest natural lakes in Thailand and is famous not only for its sacred island, but its clear waters, lotus flowers and floating restaurants.
Weaving in and out of the local roads, you can easily drive around the whole lake. We started in Sakon Nakhon city and drove clockwise around the lakes circumferance. This brought us past the lotus park and Tha Rae Village we’ve talked about above and then onwards to the incredibly colourful Wat Yod Lamthan.
After the temple we headed next door to a small, roadside restaurant for a lunch stop. We ordered pad thai and were treated to two plates piled high with fat prawns, roasted and stir fried pork, slices of tofu and wok fried egg. It was far better than we expected and an utter bargain at 50 baht per plate.
We continued on round the lake, pulling over at scenic spots and outlooks for photos. The road took us past a seated, golden Buddha, through villages of stilted wooden houses and around flat paddy fields, full of grazing buffalo. It was a very scenic drive and a complete contrast to the busy city roads. Isan is famously the rice bowl of Thailand and you could certainly tell this was the case around Sakon Nakhon. The city had long since fallen away and all around were farms and paddy fields.
Our final stop before we headed back into Sakon Nakhon was Wat Maha Phrom Phothirat (Wat Neua). This lakeside temple was utterly gorgeous, full of white and gold chedi’s amazing statuary and serene prayer halls.
This is also the area of the lake where you can hire out “restaurant rafts” although when we visited they sounded more like "karaoke rafts”. These large flat barges can be rented by groups or families who can then float out onto the lake. You can order food to them, drink or just sing the day away with a karaoke machine. On weekends it gets very busy and a collection of market stalls spring up on the lakeside.
There are plenty of wats, villages, roadside food and coffee stops you could make on an orbit of the lake. It’s one of our favourite things to do in Thailand - just get on a bike and see where the road takes us.
Check our map below for our route and the places we’ve mentioned above.
Delve deeper into Sakon Nakhon province
The city of Sakon Nakhon is only a small part of the much larger Sakon Nakhon province. The province is a treasure trove of National Parks, Khmer ruins, beautiful wats and even some ancient petroglyphs.
We’ve written a whole guide on what there is to see and do in the province, check it out below:
What To Eat And Drink In Sakon Nakhom
Where to eat in Sakon Nakhom?
Sakon Nakhom has plenty of places to eat, whether you’re after a sit-down meal in a restaurant or looking for something to pick up and go. Here’s just some of our favourite dining spots in the city.
To Charoen Si Night Market
(location)
As night falls, To Charoen Si Night Market springs into life with stalls setting up inside the covered market and sprawling out onto the streets around. There aren’t many things better than a Thai night market, and this one’s no exception.
We headed here most evenings and grazed our way through the stalls picking up sticks of moo ping (BBQ pork), Thai style sushi, Hat Yai fried chicken and other Thai street food staples.
The curry stalls are always a firm favourite of the locals!
The night markets of Thailand are like our supermarkets - only better! It’s where families will come to pick up their dinners, either as raw ingredients or full plates of cooked food. Sakon Nakhon’s Night Market held everything you could need for dinner whether it was fresh bitter melon for your curry or a steaming pile of ready to eat noodles.
Night Market near Sakon Nakhon’s Bus Station
(location)
A huge market that is one half food stalls with the other half taken up by vintage clothing stalls, toy shops and pop up beauty salons. The market snakes up and down a large car park before worming its way into a covered hangar.
There are all the Thai night market favourites on offer as well as plenty of Isan specialties - ant eggs anyone?
We picked up some freshly squeezed orange juice, Isan sausages packed full of zingy lemongrass and herbs and some sweet, crispy doughnuts. We spent most of the evening just exploring this market, it was so full of unique foods and fun stalls, there was even a bouncy castle!
Definitely head over to this market if you’re looking for some Isan style tapas. Night markets are always a great choice if you are unsure of what to eat but want to try some delicious delicacies. We loved wandering around this market. It had a great atmosphere and was super busy with students and families.
If you arrive on a scooter, there is a huge car park that runs the length of the market on the main road.
Food court and street food stalls along Suk Kasem Road
(location)
Every evening, all along Suk Kasem Road, street food stalls and restaurants open up to hungry diners.
In this brightly lit food court, we found some delicious fish ball noodle soup and fried wontons. OK we know fish ball noodles don’t sound that appealing, but trust us, this Thai-Chinese dish is delicious!
In the food court there were plenty of stir-fry stalls and noodle soup vendors serving all the usual Thai street food classics.
If you’re after something a little bit more familiar, just next door is the very popular “Hipster Steak" restaurant. We didn’t eat there ourselves, but the owners were always super friendly as we passed by; practicing their English and reassuring us they could cook a steak for us ‘farang style’ 😋
Mitre Uppratham: Historical Restaurant
(location)
Usually when a restaurant describes itself as “authentic”, “traditional” or “local” we’d steer well clear - really authentic restaurants tend not to have to tell people that!
However, there is an exception to every rule and Sakon Nakhon’s historical restaurant, the Mitre Uppratham had been recommended to us and had come with such high praise we couldn’t write it off.
Set on the ground floor of a traditional wooden house everything about this restaurant was old school. From the menu to the tables, to the decor and photos on the wall, this restaurant has definitely been around.
Flavour however is timeless and this place just nailed it. Traditional Thai dishes done properly with no bells and whistles, just pure powerful flavours. We had excellent pad kra pao’s that were deep, rich and spicy.
Generous portions, reasonable prices and great vintage vibes. Don’t miss this place if you’re in Sakon Nakhon.
Isan feast at Rham Somtum NitNoi
(location)
Whatever time of day we passed by this restaurant, it was always full to the brim with crowds of local families chowing down on colourful plates of som tam salad.
Serving all things Isan we ordered up a feast which included half a BBQ chicken, grilled pork, a salty egg corn som tam salad and enough sticky rice for two. It was everything we could have hoped for. Som tam, grilled meat and sticky rice is one of the world's greatest meals. Every aspect compliments and contrasts each other perfectly.
Rham Somtum NitNoi was especially great. The BBQ chicken was one of the best we had in the whole of Isan. Smokey and juicy with a perfect sweet-savoury marinade. The grilled pork was charred to perfection and served with a tangy and garlic rich chilli dip. The corn som tam with salted egg was the perfect accompaniment to the sticky rice and meats.
Pan eggs - streetside breakfast restaurant
(location)
This small, no frills breakfast restaurant became our go to every morning we were in Sakon Nakhon. Pan eggs or kai grata in Thai, are a breakfast staple. A small pan is heated until sizzling and then filled with egg, sausage, ground meat and whatever else the restaurant feels like. Cheap, hearty and perfect for a quick and filling breakfast.
The restaurant also serves up pork noodles, thick rice soup topped with sliced Vietnamese style sausage, pork banh mi and poached eggs.
Chicken Rice
(location)
A couple of doors down from the food court we mentioned above was this small roadside chicken rice stall.
You really cannot go wrong with chicken rice and this is a perfect example of poultry perfection.
The deep fried chicken was cooked to crispy deliciousness and the oiled rice was nutty and full of flavour. The soup on the side was also fantastic - bone-rich and garlicky!
Clock Tower Pork Noodle Soup
(location)
This small streetside pork noodle soup stall opens up late in the evening from 8pm until early morning or whenever it sells out (usually the latter!).
Sometimes in life it’s worth waiting for food and this was one of those times. Famous amongst locals, this street food stall is an institution of the area.
A steaming bowl of nood-ly goodness was topped with sweet, red, char siu and roasted pork all bathed in a truly amazing garlic rich broth. There’s a reason why this stall is famous.
We’d recommend heading to To Charoen Si Night Market early in the evening to pick up some starters and then heading here to dine when the stall opens.
Where to find the best coffee and cafes in Sakon Nakhon
Wherever we are, it doesn’t take us long to scout out a coffee shop and luckily for us, there were plenty to choose from in Sakon Nakhon. Here’s some of our favourite spots.
Sniff Coffee Shop
(location)
Sniff Coffee is a super modern, hipster coffee shop set a few doors down from Sakon Nakhon’s clock tower.
Inside, the decor is very avant-garde with graffiti and street art on the walls and leather chairs dotted about.
The coffee shop served us some fantastic coffees, their orange black’s (americanos with orange juice) were some of the best we’ve had. They also have some delicious looking doughnuts and pastries that were very hard to resist.
The coffee shop is open all day and is very popular with the local university students.
Come Home Cafe
(location)
Come Home Cafe is set in a traditional wooden house. All of our alarm bells were ringing. This was the kind of cafe which, if it was in England, would be called ‘Ye Olde Tearooms’ and would feature a disproportionate amount of doilies!
However, our fears of twee-ness were completely unfounded. The lattes from Come Home Cafe were fantastic. Sweet but not sickly, creamy but not cloying. Everything you want on a hot Thai day.
The cafe serves up a full Thai menu as well as sweet treats and cakes.
Behind the cafe, there’s a small gift shop selling indigo clothing, scarves and other trinkets.
Moon Cafe
(location)
Set in the heart of the city, Moon Cafe is a sleek and modern coffee shop with a minimalist interior, comfy chairs and chilled out vibes. We ordered two iced lattes and they hit the spot perfectly. Rich, bitter and balanced, the lattes were excellent.
This coffee shop is only a short walk from the city's famous Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan.
Where To Stay - Accommodation In Sakon Nakhon
Our accommodation, MT Place Hotel
We stayed at the wonderful MT Place Hotel in a double en-suite room. We got a great deal when we booked and it wound up being the perfect choice. The rooms were spacious, clean, comfy and had great showers.
We can’t praise the lovely staff enough, they helped us with all our questions, gave recommendations on where to eat and what to see as well as arranging a scooter hire. They even gave us a small parting gift of some very comfy elephant print pyjamas to thank us for our stay!
To book a stay at MT Place Hotel, click here.
All other hotels and guesthouses in Sakon Nakhon
There are quite a few different options when it comes to accommodation in Sakon Nakhon. As the city isn’t really on the Western tourist trail, most of the options will be in Thai, but this has never been a problem for us. The friendliness of the Thai’s combined with our bundling use of Google Translate has always seen us through.
The town is quite spread out, so take that into account when booking a hotel.
Click on the map below to see all accommodation choices in the city.
Where Is Sakon Nakhon, How To Get There And How To Get Around
Where in Thailand is Sakon Nakhon?
Sakon Nakhon lies 650 KM away from the Thai capital of Bangkok, deep in the heart of Isan in northeast Thailand. You can find the city on Google Maps here.
The city is also the provincial capital of Sakon Nakhon province. The province is bordered by Nong Khai, Bueng Kan, Nakhon Phanom, Mukdahan, Kalasin and Udon Thani. It is a great hub and base for exploring this region of Isan.
Spot the grazing buffalo!
Getting to Sakon Nakhon
Sakon Nakhon has great links to pretty much anywhere - the Thai bus network is fantastic wherever you are in the country, just head to the local bus station and ask around. We’ve never had a problem getting from a to b. There is also the option for those in a hurry to catch a plane.
These are the easiest ways to get to Sakon Nakhon.
From within Isan
Wherever you are in Isan you should be able to catch a bus or minivan to Sakon Nakhon.
If you arrive by bus you should be dropped off at Sakon Nakhon Bus Terminal No. 2 located here. From the bus station, you’ll need to grab a taxi or songthaew to take you into the centre.
Remember to look up and around - there’s lots of street art to be found in the centre of Sakon Nakhon!
From Bangkok and the rest of Thailand
As a major city, Sakon Nakhon is very well connected both to Bangkok and everywhere else in Thailand.
Buses depart from Mo Chit Bus Terminal in Bangkok multiple times everyday and journey times range between 8.5 to 16 hours depending on your route. In addition to the bus links there is also a local airport, which has flights departing to and from Bangkok daily. The flight takes around 1 hour and 10 minutes and goes to and from Don Mueang airport in Bangkok. This is a good choice if you’re short on time as instead of a 10 plus hour bus ride you’ll be done within an hour and a half!
To book tickets in advance, we’d recommend using 12Go, just click the widget below for all bus and plane options.
Getting around Sakon Nakhon
The town itself is quite spread out, but you can walk to all the “main” attractions in the city. If you’re planning a trip around the lake or exploring further into the province, you will definitely need some form of wheels.
At the bus station and waiting around town (particularly near the markets) you’ll find tuk tuks, songthaews and taxis, all of which you should be able to negotiate for a ride or day trip.
For short hops around town, the ride hailing app Grab works and we never had to wait long for a lift. This would also be a good option if you can’t find a driver for the day. Order a Grab to your first destination and negotiate with the driver to stick around to take you on to the next place.
As always our favourite method of transport was to hire a scooter and drive ourselves. We were unable to find a scooter / motorbike rental in town, but luckily our lovely accommodation (see above) sorted us out with a bike. We rented a 155 cc new Honda Click for 300 baht per day with a 100 baht delivery / pick up fee to the hotel.
The best way to get our and see Thailand!
The roads around Sakon Nakhon are very rural!
Where To Go Next?
Exploring more of Isan
Sakon Nakhon is the perfect base to explore more of Isan’s lesser known treasures.
To the east, you’ll stumble upon the market town of Mukdahan and its giant Buddha and guardian naga. From there you could head north up the Mekong to Nakhon Phanom, a gorgeous chilled out riverside spot popular with holidaying Thai’s. After Nakhon Phanom, you could continue north, following along the the banks of the Mekong to stop at the town of Bueng Kan. From the town, it’s only a short drive to visit the mysterious Three Whale Rock and Wat Phu Tok. After Bueng Kan, you could catch a bus to the city of Nong Khai, home to the mystical Sala Keo Kou Buddha park and bustling riverside market.
To the west, you could visit the larger Isan cities of Udon Thani or Kohn Kaen, both of which are stuffed full of night markets, pretty temples and lots of delicious Isan food!
Final Thoughts
Was Sakon Nakhon worth a trip?
As part of our Isan odyssey, Sakon Nakhon was a fantastic stop. It was our first Isan city away from the Mekong and it blew us away with its friendliness and lakeside charm.
We headed there expecting to stay only a night or two, but there was so much to see in the city and the wider province that we just had to extend our stay.
Was it worth the trip? Absolutely, if you’re looking to get right off the tourist trail and find some delicious, authentic food as well as lovely people and stunning scenery, Sakon Nakhon ticks all the boxes. It shouldn’t be your only stop in Isan but it definitely should be on your Isan itinerary.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The central Isan province of Sakon Nakhon is an untravelled Thai wonderland full of things to do. From the striking, colourful naga statue at Wat Tham Pha Daen to prehistoric petroglyphs, ancient hilltop Khmer ruins and beautiful National Parks, there’s so much to see and do! Read our complete guide for everything you need to know about exploring this lesser-known province of Thailand.